Thank you for commenting

Awesome, I’ve had 0 issues on this vehicle , I’m at 126,000 and started using this more and more for camping

I have Honda CRV 2007 US Build ... Just recommend when you replace starter, change Cooling Pipe or Heater Pipe. I had leaking that stupid pipe .I made mistake , when I replaced starter from bottom car Two Years before .. it's must be done from top engine ... . That Cooling Pipe have a vey bad location ,and better to change ,when you doing starter job. And same time replace Thermostat and Thermostat Housing, if needs ... Good Luck !!!!!

Love to chat, anytime this week is good

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Thanks for sharing

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Appreciate the favorable feedback 👍🏼

I appreciate you taking the time to compliment this video

Good luck 👍🏼

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You’re welcome, thanks for sharing

My pleasure!

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Glad you liked it!

thank you

thanks you

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Thanks for adding this, glad it worked out

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Nice job, they aren’t easy to replace, thank you for commenting

Did you take the filter apart to check out what was in it?

Definitely get it taken care of

Thanks a lot!

Blue prints are the how to video, I cover the steps in the video, sorry no blue prints ever made.

Louis N. Manuals don’t have a filter

@@dannysdiygarage Thanks great to know.

It would be a good idea to change that fluid.....Jim

thanks you

Healthy fluid is good for the transmission, so yes make sure it’s red and doesn’t have a burnt smell, yes definitely change the filter last, as far as my fluid in my vehicles, once it hit 60k I changed it every 15k, my fluid always stay red and healthy

Are you driving over 45 with your foot slightly accelerating at this time,? And it’s just a quick chatter or does it continue for 2 to 5 seconds?

@@dannysdiygarage I didn't notice speed but it was just for a second I let off the gas and it goes away

Here is what I suspect, torque converter clutch, or ignition miss, do you need me to tell you how to determine which it is?

@@dannysdiygarage I did notice my passenger side axle had play in it as the driver side doesn't. I did the fluid change today I didn't get to drive it far enough to see if it happened again ,but I do hear a lil noise in my passenger axle .so I believe that might be part of my problem also lol

@@killaklown1080 hopefully that is the issue, make sure you get a quality axle. cheep axle will cause more issues later down the line

Sorry I am not sure what you are asking

I believe they are inquiring about the D light on on PRNDL indicator on the gauge cluster. If it is flashing it indicates that there is a transmission DTC present and will need to be read using a scan tool.

It should not, Unless it’s slipping now

No belt, it’s a chain

@@dannysdiygarage I'm getting a weird sound coming from that area. Not sure what it could be.

Alternator, belt tensioner, power steering? What’s the sound?

@@dannysdiygarage so I just found out it's the water pump

@@ReadySetElement Sometimes the AC compressors also develop a whine when engaged. This usually happens when one of the fans fails resulting in greater high side pressures, causing the compressor to wear prematurely. Always check and see if both fans are working well with the AC on.

Probably not, but it's worth a try, this might be your torque converter, I have heard that a few Element owners have flushed their transmission two or three times and the shutter went away, good luck and let me know it it fixed it.

Used to have the same issue. Did a 3x drain and fill on my 07 EX auto and 20k+ miles later no shudder since. Did a check on the fluid the other day and it’s smelling burnt so I’m replacing it again. Hoping it’s just from general use.

I second the guess of a bad torque converter. Mine felt the same as described and after a transmission fluid change did nothing to correct it, the shop discovered a bad torque converter.

It’s called a transmission auxiliary cooler filter, for years I was told my Element did not have a transmission filter, some where in my comments I have the part number Hope this clarifies Also the filter in the transmission is the flat aware one, the transmission would need to come apart to install this during a rebuild situation

No, I did not

There is not a filter on the manual transmission 👍🏼

25430 PLR 003 is the part numbers

@@dannysdiygarage is there two of these or are they here two different kinds ?

On the car 07 Honda Element

They call it a transmission cooler filter I believe, 25430 PLR 003 and yes 07 is my vehicle

No filter on the manual

@@dannysdiygarage Thank you!

I do not know, the way prices are, I would guess $300. But that’s a guess

Thanks Mike

hey, i recently swapped SC struts and springs onto my normal element, and it takes no fabrication or anything, so its likely that normal element struts and springs would go onto an sc with no issue. The normal element has a much better ride, but handles worse, which is why I changed out. If you dont want your ride height to go any higher, you could swap out for normal element struts but keep the SC springs, though it might be slightly hard because of the SC spring rates. Additionally, i put on 15 inch rims from the factory 16, and personally didnt notice any difference

Yes, it’s definitely bouncy and it’s the character of this beast, I’ve never thought about changing it though, however last time I got tire it was even worse. I found lower air pressure and softer rubber help a little, this is all I have to add Good luck keep us posted on what helps if anything

@@potatosfortots9909 the 18” wheels, lowered stance &sport tuned suspension all contribute 2the harsh ride. I used run 40psi in Z-rated tires &get beat up something terrible. But she cornered like a Saleen. W/a full tank &4 adults onboard, she rides 75% better. She really likes weight in the rear as it preloads her rear coils &cures much of that god awful bounce. A loaded trailer w/a full tank has a similar calming effect. I reduced my tire pressure to 35psi in all season touring tires &that took about 30% of the bounce away. Later I bought some new OEM SENSEN rear struts &put on the only progressively wound coils that I could find by ST SUSPENSIONS #60283. They were rated 4a 2” drop in the rear of a regular Element. They dropped mine 1.7” & took another 50% off of the ride harshness &bounce away. Those coils r short &a little noisy. I’m convinced that similarly progressively wound, full 10” height, coated rear coils combined w/ dual adjustable struts would solve my problem w/o sacrificing my SC’s sport tuned nature. It’s tuned for carrying 4 x 250lb men on an oval track. It’s simply overkill.

@@potatosfortots9909does any1 make OEM style rear struts w/adjustable dampening & rebound? I can get custom, progressively wound & coated rear coils.

@@ct4cf Yeah its a hard compromise unless you drop insane ammounts of money on coilovers. When i had my rear springs next to the SC springs, the sc springs were much thicker and tighter wound, but looked to be around the same height. I personally like the overkill suspension design, but I understand why some might not like it. When i picked up my familly from the airport the other day they definetly noticed the harsher ride. I did look for adjustable struts, but personally couldnt find anything. If you want to look though, the acura RSX struts might fit, meaning that their aftermarket adjustsable struts could work, but they likely wouldnt be valved correctly for the vehicle best of luck

Yes, I agree, however it probably doesn’t make a big difference

My thought also, at some point it will plug or deteriorate, I cut open my filter and it didn’t look great, I’m changing this on my Honda civic also this weekend, I’ll do a video for this. Thanks for commenting.

@@dannysdiygarage Exactly. I have a 2010 Honda Element, hence the reason I found your video. Thank you for making them!

Who’s getting paid