damn straight. it's literally the command center of the speaker

@@V1ralB1ack Wattage Post CrossOver...................................? I would be curious to compare gross wattage input versus net wattage per driver driven after the crossover. Or maybe at 1 watt in, as a standard. I would think the difference would indicate a crossover efficiency, if there is such a thing.

@@TriAmpHiFi I wonder this too. This would be useful to look at

thank you for flat out saying it

Wattage Post CrossOver...................................? I would be curious to compare gross wattage input versus net wattage per driver driven after the crossover. Or maybe at 1 watt in, as a standard. I would think the difference would indicate a crossover efficiency, if there is such a thing.

🤗😎GREAT STORY,THANKS FOR SHARING 💚💚💚

WAF Vs GAS the eternal struggle😂

if there is one thing that wives do not criticize are crossovers ... because they are hidden For now at least

@@gino3286 GOOD POINT GINO 🤫💚💚💚

there used to be an online database of rigorously specified subwoofer measurements, and i believe it had an industry-shaping effect: modern subwoofers are built to a much higher standard than previously, and the modern subwoofer customer has a broad selection of options. i wish crossover components could get the same treatment

good morning, can I ask if you are still convinced of the goodness of switching to active speakers ? which are the major improvements that you have obtained ? thanks al ot and kind regards gino

What sounds best when you buy it is not necessarily still the best in long term. Cheap condensers e. g. tend to dry out early and that will alter the overall performance. So parts quality matters. Of course: If the principle crossover design is bad the parts' quality can't save it.

​@@Fastvoice I know no one that has ever inquired about condensers or crossovers, etc, when speaker shopping. I know no one that would know a mass produced one from and hand crafted one. I suspect that even people that do audio reviews would struggle with that aspect of speaker design and build. I also suspect that when reviewers include such information in their reviews, they are regurgitating what the manufacturer told them. Virtually no one opens up their speakers to confirm what is inside. People tend to ask about frequency response, driver sizes, how many drivers, type of wood used, how much power is needed to properly drive the speakers, etc. If you told folks which condensers are in their speakers, or made it up, nearly no one would know the difference. I do know several people that know which brands are reputable, and they will stick to shopping for those brands. It stands to reason that the reputable brands will not have build quality issues. I own Vandersteen speakers. I have no idea what parts are inside. Yet I do know that none of it is junk, from the entry level speakers, to the flagship speakers.

You're absolutely correct. If you labelled a poly cap a foil cap and a foil cap a poly cap then ninety nine percent of all the hand wringing audio snobs out there would simply ask for the film cap, then getting the poly cap instead, remain blissfully unaware until their dying day. The quality of cross over components can certainly make a difference but it's far more important to get the balance of all components correct than it is to use what a couple of dudes who are more interested in bragging about the parts in their cross over than they are great sound think are the best parts to use. As you stated, buy what sounds best. Only a da*n fool would fall in love with the sound of a speaker and then upon discovering it had what he considered less than stellar crossover components throw it in the trash thinking it's sound was now unlistenable. I've seen many comments from people who might be that foolish stating before people buy a speaker they should demand to see the crossover, yeah, good luck with that. No one is going to disassemble the speaker so someone who probably doesn't have the money to buy the speaker anyway can pass judgement on a part they know little to nothing about. Never mind the drivers they know nothing about but don't seem to mind being garbage or the cabinet construction they don't understand but don't question other than putting some dampening material in it as if that is going to fix a poor cabinet. Again, proper design of the system as a whole is far more important than every part being top flight. After all, we've got guys complaining that $1000 is too much to pay for great speakers. Can you imagine if companies actually used the level of parts some of these guys think should be used? Every bookshelf speaker would then be 5 grand and up. These are the same guys who look at parts cost and a sheet of plywood and thing that's all the cost a company incurs. What I've always said to these fellas is if you think you know better or can do better then I look forward to hearing Joe Smith Audio speakers very soon. So far old Joe Smith hasn't made his mark in the speaker world though, strange.

The difference is in residual charge in inductors for iron core vs. air core and discharge rate in capacitors. Air core inductors hold very little residual charge and foil type capacitors have a much faster discharge rate. Another advantage is these parts have a lower ESR ( equivalent series resistance) which means your speakers need less power to achieve the same volume levels. Listening fatigue will be much less or nonexistent too ! If you are after better sound this in a no brainer .

Quality parts are expensive so the greatest number of companies saves money by putting the cheapest parts possible and no damping material at all.

Yeah and it's pointless if you already own great sounding speakers lol

@@geddylee501 What are you running?

@@Roof_Pizza tdl studio 0.5 with jordan full range driver so no crossovers

While it can be appreciated at a particular level, it is amazing what so many consider great sounding????? No wonder it's not just in the past that there once was bread and circuses for the masses

That must be a lot more expensive than to just buy the one 4.5uf. no?

Or perhaps you gain some kind of fidelity by doing it stacked? Idk it sounds backwards. I think you want less components for the electricity to flow through if you want high fidelity

40k and they should have the best it’s funny companies want to save a little money and sell more more

But if they win golden ear awards etc then they must be working well...the crossovers I mean

The better crossover is reserved for the “reference” series of FR30

Put simply, a system as a whole must be balanced when you're striving for the top. Like a race car; the tires, down force, engine, fuel, gearing, the vehicle as a whole determines it's performance. If one area is lacking the whole performance suffers.

oooooh mortal sacrilege... oooooh this insane heretic monster is using an equalizer ooooh noooooo sound all audophile alarms oooo oooooo terrible offense hahaha. well done dude eq for life.

@@endrizo hahahahahahahhaa EQ 🤪 I like EQs but only parametric, graphic EQs are hard to use in some situations.

Hello , what kind of 31 Band did you get for 79.00 dollars 🤔 was it a steal on eBay for a used DBX? Or RANE ? I'm interested

@@jasontimothywells9895 The ones used by musicians - Behringer FBQ3102HD

@@Enemji oh , how is it , I bought one about 6 years ago and it was very noisy, I returned and exchanged 3 times and 2 of them where worse than the 1st one that was delivered. So I spent the big money and purchased a ASHLEY parametric and a couple DBX mono 31 Band . Maybe BEHRINGER got there 💩 together. Happy it works good for your needs . Cheers 🥂

That all depends on the manufacturer, stolen non polarized are the best and last a very long time , but things like how the speakers was used and heat . Heat kills them over time , it's always best to replace them with even decent grade poly caps , if you are wanting a very inexpensive fix that will satisfy you call Madisound speakers in Madison Wisconsin and tell them you want the caps they cary from Taiwan, the poly ones will only be a couple dollars each . I if I can remember are Jp or something like that , Madisound is the best business for speaker and related things , Parts Exspress is not witty enough to give the best service , in my own opinion at least .

Selective hearing is the best.😉🇺🇲 🪖

My grandfather manned artillery in ww2 . His hearing was bad. I remember he got a hearing aid, and he put them in listened to my grandmother for 10 minutes and took them out. 😆

Perfect answer, they will tell you exactly what they are using and why if they are reputable, or if they shirk around the subject you can say goodbye and not purchase, in any case listening at home first is obviously the best thing

Separate amps don't control a unit better. A speaker unit breaks- up, distords, and react constantly different to levels of dynamics and volume. A dsp is in theory fine, but it works like an equalizer. The original soundtrack is not even close when playing.

@@benvanzanten379 "A speaker unit breaks- up, distords, and react constantly different to levels of dynamics and volume." That's also true about a driver when crossed over passively. A "speaker unit" does not suddenly "breaks- up, distords," because it's being crossed over actively, whether it be analog such as a 3-way DBX 234XL or the dozens of digital DSPs. So mentioning that drivers do this, is kind of not supporting your point. It's an equal variable to any type of crossover. DSPs and analog DBX's are nothing like an equalizer. They are crossovers which also allow both physical and digital filtering, etc. Everyone using a sub-woofer (yes, there are exceptions) is using "separate amps" and using an active (analog or digital) crossover (yes, there are exceptions). So, they are all Actively Bi-amping. Home theatre people are DIRAC actively Octo-Amping. Actively Tri-Amping 3-way stereo speakers has some great advantages. My favorite reason is flexibility. With each driver in it's own cabinet, I get more sets of speakers for less. I can take out the 6" cone midrange cabinet and replace it with a midrange compression driver with horn cabinet. Change crossover settings from 150Hz, 2.5KHz to 500Hz, 8KHz and it is an entirely new sound/speaker combo. How about the magnapan LS for a midrange? Think of the amp combos. Woofers-Steve Levinson Class A/B, Midrange- Pass Labs Type A & Tweeters- McIntosh Tube amp. I could live with that as my power amplification rack. Ciao

It's the only way lol

And increased distortion from amplifier harmonics hitting cone's resonances. Not to mention that these crossovers are complicated, which leads people to buying cheap and underdeveloped crossovers that burn. Passive crossovers are still the way to go unless you want to do something special, like add a delay, an allpass, a very high order filter, address sharp peaks, or a high pass around driver's resonance. All of these are useful and welcome, but are they worth it a the cost of increased harmonics? Currently the best crossovers are hybrid. You have an option of software + analog active + passive + accoustic. The more you pick, the more expensive it gets. With many speakers a passive crossover is fine. As always engineers skill is far more important, but even then we have automatic crossover designer software so yeah, passive is the way to go most of the time.

Active crossovers are only good for under 200hz. After that they rob the speaker of sound big time. Can't replace high end film caps at $100/ea and good film inductors with active crossovers full of cheap parts and noisy power supplys.

Active DSP cross-over allows each driver to be driven directly and precisely and, for example, a tweeter will not get the harmonics from a clipping woofer amplifier. There is no increased distortion but rather you get reduced distortion and less cone resonances with better damping factor also. Of course DSP filtering is best for already digital music (or you introduce another ADC+DAC path) and ideally runs on high sample rate equal to incoming sample rate (No SRC).

@@badd99 With active crossovers you have much better flexibility to tune the filtering better through the entire frequency range. Passive filters have to cope with the complexity of speaker power transfer, impedance and even thermal impedance dependencies.

@@rhalfik in any sane setup you have a DSP already in the chain for room-eq and dynamic loudness - which distortion you are dreaming of?

You just cannot use a generic crossover in any speaker . It does not work that way . That would only work if the impedance of the drivers is known , exactly the same and flat over the whole frequency range . And also the efficiencies of the drivers must be the same . Name me any combination of drivers that has that property . Woofers and cone midranges are the main , but not only reason for this : their voice coils are inductors which will have significant rising impedance with rising frequency and just like any other coil in a crossover this will act like a 6db low pass filter . But since the value of the impedance of every woofer and cone midrange is different , you cannot make a generic crossover . Generic crossovers are utterly useless . Every speaker needs its own specific crossover

What??...🦻🏻😋

Pretty nonsense

Oops not 64k settings. 4,000 settings for the crossover for the Utopia.My bad..🙃 Focal ES 165KX2 These are the ones I have 2-ohm impedance power range: 6-120 watts RMS (240 watts peak power) frequency response: 55-22,000 Hz sensitivity: 92.5 dB $1,299.99 pair.

Sonus Faber uses in their more expensive speakers, Mundorf crossover parts.

So right my friend! Our ears are the ultimate judges of quality!

opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. including me.

I’ve seen examples in speakers that were built 50 years ago that contradict your comment.. Things are a lot more complicated than just whether an inductor is air core or not. When it comes to electronic components, you can’t just make comments like this.

@@shipsahoy1793 no it's a FACT. Iron core is LESS EXPENSIVE than air core. For a reason.

You sir are absolutely right . I never ever use iron core coils .

@@badd99 absolutely , it's a cheap way to create high mH values at the cost of maximum allowed current .

The way you tell the good crossover is by what it looks like. Capacitors should have bright colours. Inductors should look coppery. The more coppery the better. If it is 0.999999999999999999 pure oxygen-free copper than you know it's a good one.

Paul simply stated the quality of parts -and adjusting the XO to the drivers, plays a major role in how that speaker will sound. Nothing useless about that...

@@clickbeetle2720 Wish I could say "first with your Mum", but the football squad got there before me.

Then you'll never have a problem hearing them.

@@LuxAudio389 But he will have a problem hearing anything else 😂