If they have a goal in mind, they have yet to explain it to anyone in my line of work. I think it's just that the saddles they get are wrong and it would take too much time to adjust the radius.

Hi there, Furch Red user here too. Same issue on my Furch Red, it's really hard to me to play cleanly, I'm bringing it to a luthier to have a custom bone saddle to match the fretboard radius. Hope it could address this issue. And I nvr really like TUSQ bcoz of it's brightness, hopefully the bone could have a warmer tone

@@thomaschin3841My guitar tech was even more terrible. He didnt even realized that guitar neck angle is also not right. I was trying to make high E string at 1.5mm, but it was physicallly not possible, even at lowerst saddle value. SO firstly I sent this guitar to repair. Because of this issue I learned to how build nut and saddle, I ordered a lot of materials and tools to do that. And now going to build it by myself. I dont trust anyone in my envinroment now. And yeah, it was great experience to get this knowledge, about everything what I must know, it will definitely help on buying new and used guitars and adapt the playability how I want by myself 😂 "Thanks Furch". But tbh, its the best gutiar so far, which I have heared. Shape, look, sound, all 10 out of 10 except that awful bugs, where they didnt pay much attention. Maybe its only rare cases, maybe its massive problem. But I will try to improve it now again, and If I will still have difficulties on playing in comparison with my old Yamaha, then probably I will sell it. I wouldn't say that its the problem, but the neck... Its thick soft V shape and I have under average finger lenght. When the guitar was on repair, I used only yamaha and I really realized how my endurace was much better with that modern C neck. But, on the other hand if considering only fingerstyle, even for my small hands I think Furch's Neck is a bit better. Maybe just need more practice and experience... dono :)

I'm not sure what you mean. If the bottom of the strings all are riding on a thing that matches the radius, the radius should be exact. The rest of the setup needs to happen with saddle height, neck, nut, possibly light fretwork etc. I just use a radius gauge to match the saddle to the fretboard. I guess that is a sort of template.

@@DrewsGuitarShop New guitars and new saddles that are pre-cut and shaped are higher on the low E side, then taper toward the low E. A symmetrical radius doesn't feel right to me. Just wondering if there's a template to get that a-symmetrical shape.

@@rstevenhanson I think you will find that to be an optical illusion and that if you hold a radius guage to the top of the saddle, it will reflect a standard radius of some kind. If not, then yeah, Its going to play weird. There is no benefit to altering the radius like that.

@@DrewsGuitarShop Just bought a Taylor micarta saddle and the treble side is 2 mm lower than the bass. There's a slope for sure.

@@rstevenhanson Usually the treble side of the saddle is lower by virtue of the fact that a good setup will usually have the treble side closer to the frets. The curve on top will usually be a consistant radius, as in not a parabola or more curved on one side or the other. Because of the shorter treble side and higher base side, it can often look as is there is an unevenness to the curve but it would be highly unusual for that to actually be the case. In terms of a template, the way I carve saddles most of the time is draw a curve that matches the fretboard and then carve to that to the curve, after which I'll crown, then at the last stages of the setup determine how much material needs to be ground off the bottom of the saddle on both the treble and bass side to get the numbers I want. It will usually take more off the treble side than the bass side. there is no pre prescribed shape or height because there really cant be if you are working with a raw blank. They will be unique every time depending on the guitar.

I don’t. Been thinking about getting one.