This is what I have always done and seems like a super obvious solution. Not sure what the problem described in this video is really.

Dremel works for me

Really surprised at that comment I would imagine there's a fair amount of luthiers that would beg to differ Especially, In Europe.

@@glennlilley8608 the best luthiers that I have ever seen in KZfaq is french and the best brand for making high end instrument is German Warwick -framus.

Thanks for sharing

Happy to help!

He answers this very topic toward the end of the video.

Exactly, use a depth stop, and cut the slot .015" deeper to account for finish sanding.

Keep in mind that not all CA glues are equal.

@@HighlineGuitars Sure, every company will claim to have their own spin, but at the core the adhesive is the same. Been building and repairing guitars for over 20 years and never had an issue with using heat or tapping it loose.

The standard Titebond makes for easier cleanup but it takes much longer than CA glue to dry completely. It also doesn't stick as well to the frets as CA glue. I use the gel type CA, it stays in place better.

1. Skill and experience. 2. I wipe it off before it sets up.

It's not a problem if you wax the fretboard first.

I used to use hide glue, but it is a pain. CA works better and it's important to keep in mind that CA glues are all different. Stewmac used to have a video on the difference between using CA glue and no glue when installing frets. I can't find it anymore, but you could really hear the difference.

If the slots are too narrow, the stress of pressing in all of the frets can cause the board to twist an warp and that’s not good even though the fretboard is glued to the neck. Too wide and the fret could move to one side of the slot or the other, which means the center of the crown will be off. And just as bad, the fret could be installed crooked. The size you need will depend on the wire you use. Testing with several different size bits will be necessary. I use .024” diameter 2 flute up cut bits.

My slots stop short of the sides of the fretboard, so I have to flood the slot before I press in the frets. I think you're confusing different viscosities of CA glue with diluting CA glue. CA glue is formulated for different viscosities. Usually thick, medium, and thin. I use thin for this as it has the best capillary action.

@@lukegoffkat my slots don’t extend out of the left or right sides of the fretboard.

Maybe deeper to the point the fret tang will match the both end of the slot? Just ignore how deep the center is.

.060" would be the minimum depth. Any less and the tang will bottom out before the underside of the crown can seat properly.

@@HighlineGuitars Would it be a good idea to aim for a tiny gap and fill that gap with clue if I want to radius the slots? Even using a proper CNC, it can be quite hard to make the slot exactly as deep as the tang goes.

I cut them before I carve the radius. I make the .125" deep which is a good deal more than is necessary.

Use a glue pipette.

40 watts full on.

I used to, but not any more. For one thing, I use a CNC machine to cut my fret slots. For another, it makes no difference.

Never had the problem you describe.

Unnecessary. CA glue is not as brittle as you may think. Guys (including me) have built RC planes using nothing but CA glue to hold them together. I have one plane that is 30 years old. Think about the vibrations, hard landings, and fuel spray they endure.

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the response and teaching me something new! Always great to hear from people who are experienced in such things.

Wow, it sure takes a lot of words to describe what you you do. I can describe how I cut fret slots with only 5 words: I use a CNC machine.

@@HighlineGuitars I like to encourage new builders who don't have such resources and let them know they can do just as well with hand tools and a few easily made jigs.

@@davidjennings9253 so why are you watching my videos?

@@HighlineGuitars Because its interesting to see what other makers are doing.

I think you would be better off using a marine varnish.

I have no idea.

Use whatever glue you want. I use CA because of its capillary action and almost instant cure time. Wood glue is too thick and dries too slowly.

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for replying! I think the touted benefit of the wood glue was easier removal in case of a future refret.

​@@hearpalhere I tend to use wood glue (if I'm using glue at all) mainly because it cleans up on gloss fingerboards. That's only relevant because when I do a gloss fingerboard I finish and buff it before fretting rather than spraying over the frets as most factories do. When you do it my way, the one thing you can't get away with is superglue spilling on to the gloss finish either side of the fret. There's no cleaning it up and there's no re-buffing to the same flat finish afterwards. I sometimes use superglue on rosewood / dark wood unfinished boards that are easily scraped to clean up but more and more I'm trying to avoid it. But it's true that CA / superglue is a reassuringly quick drying glue.

It works, in theory. If you sand the radius after cutting the slots, get ready for the disappointment.

@@HighlineGuitars solid advice.

Sounds sketchy.

I use paste furniture wax and smear it on with my finger. After the frets are installed, I remove the wax with naphtha.

@@HighlineGuitars was hunting around for this comment, thanks for touching on that! I might be doing some blind slots/cuts on a design for the first time, and the thought of removing CA leak-out was giving me one of those bridge-of-the-nose pinching headaches 😂 - got plenty of paste wax here, so this sounds foolproof!

Yes, I do. Titebond is water-based which means it shrinks as it dries thereby defeating the purpose of using glue to fill gaps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/asB5gLByyarSY58.html

www.ebay.com/itm/73-0240-2-FLUTE-MICRO-CARBIDE-ENDMILLS-LONG-FLUTE/380807922802?hash=item58a9ebc472:g:lGQAAMXQM6ZRER7a

Thanks for everything you do. It's greatly appreciated

No. Thin as water. 🤦‍♂️

And I wonder what it is that you are wondering about.

@@HighlineGuitars I was wondering if I needed a compound radius at the bottom of the slots for the angled frets. Obviously, the answer is no. A straight cut button with glue filler will suffice.

Use steel applicator tips and it won't be a problem unless you have super shaky hands! bit.ly/3CiwIGh

@@HighlineGuitars gotcha. I was just anticipating the worse. Always imagining the catastrophes involved in woodworking.

I don’t know of any.

The guitars I make are for other people and time is not a luxury that I have. Also, the frets I need to fix can't be pressed in any further.

@@HighlineGuitars That makes sense. Thank you again for your time and consideration :)

Don't be silly, you never thin CA glue with water. In the video, I said "water-thin" not "water-thinned."

@@HighlineGuitars Hahaha, Thank you! I'm having a good laugh at my stupidity!

@@tomsunhall Actually, It was me who was stupid. I should have known better than to say water-thin. Several others have had the same assumption as you, so don't feel bad.

Before.

Those don't do a very accurate job, but that's okay because it doesn't accomplish anything anyway.

It’s just pink fiberglass insulation. Keeps the warmth in during the winter and the heat out in the summer. The house was built that way. All of the houses here have it.

@@HighlineGuitars I don't see anything pink on your walls in this video. I'm referring to what looks to me like white linen sheets.

@@HighRoadMusicTutorials You're seeing the white plastic sheeting that covers the insulation.

@@HighlineGuitars Ahhhh, got it. I'm with you now :-)

Thank you. I wish more viewers could be like you!

No, sorry.

You bet!

Maybe one day opinions will equal facts. I sure hope not. We'll never get to Mars in a rocket made from opinions.

@@HighlineGuitars Seems a bit condescending here triggered by the word "opinion". How is the approach he described any more or any less of an opinion informed by hypothesizing and experience than the approach you described? Neither are facts. Neither are science. Why the condescending statements about "facts" from some sort of imagined high ground? It's just craftstmen sharing differing approaches to the craft.

@@leegmoore111 when I’m bored, I like to stir the pot.

@@HighlineGuitars Ah!. Well in that case, nice job on the trolling. Well played sir!

@@leegmoore111 from one troll to another, have a great day.

Wood glue works great. However, it takes longer to dry which can be a good thing (more working time to get things right) or a bad thing (a fret can lift while the glue sets up).

Watch tomorrow’s video. Hint: wax.

As I said in the video, I use thin CA glue. No need for an accelerator.

That's exactly how I used to do it.

I think you're make a lot of valid points. I always thought that a dead fret was from it not being seated properly, which of course could be caused by a fret slot not being deep enough or it being too wide or the wood popping it out a bit etc. My fretting process is to 1) cut the fret slots in an Elmer gig to approx 2mm. 2) Radius (& thickness if needed)the fret board with radius beam. 3) Use my fret saw with a depth stop (adjusted to a hair deeper than the tang depth) to cut by hand a radiused slot to depth. You just follow the slot & make it deeper, easy. 4) Use a vacuum cleaner, compressed air & fret slot scaper to guarantee there is no debris in the slot. 5) Run a tiny bead of CA glue in & hammer in the fret. 6) Do all frets, snip the ends off as you go & then clamp an 18" aluminium radius beam (cork lined) down on all the frets & leave it over night. I have no evidence at all to suggest this is good way of doing it. I do not understand the impact or to what extent a void under a fret has or a void under a fret that is filled with glue has. But, the general principle I'm following is, 'Voids are Bad'. Eliminate them or make them as small as possible. Maybe this video sould have been called, 'Can't be arsed anymore, does't seem to make a difference'. And Chris maybe right!?

Because the slot is filled with glue before you press in the fret. The glue is forced into the voids as the fret is seated.

That still work on tight radius like 9.5" or 10

Yes.

Yes, it is common. And pointless as well.

@@HighlineGuitars Why are they pointless? Sorry to be blunt, but go back to the nonsense you're spouting between 1:30 - 2:00 into your video. A simple depth stop on a fret slot saw makes easy work of following the fretboard radius. There's no need to spend hours CNC programming when a lollipop stick and strip of double-sided tape and will do... even on a compound radius! That's not your only spurious claim. You never want fret slots the exact depth of the fret tang. It's absolutely essential to cut them ~1mm deeper than the tang. Of course you don't want them too deep, but you need to allow some flexibility when knocking the frets in and for humidity changes down the line.

@@hoodoo-man Hours of CNC programming? Try minutes. And can a table saw stop the slots short of the edge of the fretboard? No. Also, I said the slots HAVE to be deeper to avoid bottoming out the tang before the crown is seated against the fretboard. Didn't you listen?

​@@HighlineGuitars It's not pointless. It's a simple method to make sure there's a consistent void beneath each portion of a fret. Uncut wood is better than excess glue between end grain. The best bet is use glue and make sure the slot is the same depth all the way across- it's just common sense woodworking. The saws at Stewmac and Luthier's Mercantile have the guide mounting holes stock, anyone who buys one can do this simple thing that also helps those with less skill (and no expensive setup) not cut too deep or shallow. Sure, you can not do it that way. I just wonder why one wouldn't see the value when presented. While accurately free handing slot depth across a compound radius may be impossible, my kid could 'could' cut them with my saw and guide. Trying to fill voids with glue isn't the type of activity I strive to have more of. I worry that having the slot deeper in the middle means the center of the slot at fret level will try to move more (open/close) when the neck flexes because it's further from the slot bottom. I worry about what this could cause over the years and in minor accidents- maybe nothing. I'm not an experienced luthier, but I am an experienced woodworker who want to make sure what I build is as good as I can make it. I've seen videos of guys building beautiful guitars I'll likely never match, and not caring about something like their X brace joint being a bit floppy before the glue up. Does it work for them? Sure. Is it what I want? Nope. I thrashed a brace I cut poorly yesterday, now I need to make more. I'm glad I found your channel, though. I have lots to learn about building stringed instruments. : )

Spec builds cost around $1,500 and custom builds start at $1,500.

You can't dilute CA glue with water. You have to use acetone which weakens the bond. I would NEVER dilute CA glue.

@@HighlineGuitars @5:10 you said, "I flood the slot with water-thinned CA glue."

@@woodybear8298 water-thin, not water-thinned.

@@HighlineGuitars _water-thin, not water-thinned_ So you're addressing the viscosity of the glue. I've actually never paid attention to it, I had no idea it can come in different viscosities. To me it was more paying attention when I'm using it, being fast and careful in order not to glue myself part of whatever I'm gluing, or having my thumb and index fingers fused together. o_O Thanks for clarifying, it all makes sense now. Cheers!

@@HighlineGuitars Ahh, lol. It's been my experience that water-thin glue can be more difficult, and dangerous, to work with as opposed to medium viscosity CA if you're not careful, it can run everywhere.

If I ever build a guitar with a dead fret, I will. But don't hold your breath, because that doesn't happen to me anymore. I would have to make a dead fret on purpose and I obviously don't want to do that.

No. If it did, I wouldn't do it.

I've found that ca glue only shows up on light coloured wood like maple a dark wood hides any CA staining almost to the point you can't see it unless magnified..but that's only what I find

@@duncans1490 You can wax the fretboard before gluing in the frets to keep the glue off the surface of the wood. Afterward, the wax can be removed with naphtha.

@@HighlineGuitars great tip cheers 😊

To cut the slot with a radius?

​@@HighlineGuitars yes, as you said it would be very hard when working with several different scales with different radius, or even worst, a compound radius. Won't that stop on the saw be extremely useful for those who want to radius the fret slots? and it would also work for every situation of different radiuses instead of having a fixed saw that you have to setup for each radius you are working on? (I think stewmac has some saw with an acrylic stop)

@@nelsonpainco1368 I think the problem is that you'd have to cut the slot right to the edge of the fretboard if you used a handsaw, which some luthiers don't like.

The white stuff? Insulation.

You're assuming all of the glue will be pulled into the fibers. It's won't be. The glue that remains in the slot will be displaced by the mass of the tang and will fill the gap. If in doubt, use a medium viscosity CA glue.

@@HighlineGuitars Appreciate the info. I've used thin CA on fret replacements, and it wicks in quickly. Now that I think about it, the type of wood will determine how much wicking goes on. Mahogany (open pore) will soak up far more than maple (closed pore) I'm thinking. I'll know it takes a minute or more for CA glue to set up when it's not in a joint, and the thicker the glue, the longer the cure time. I'll be trying this soon. Thanks again.

@@glanderguitars6475 Yes, the type of wood makes a big difference as far as the wicking is concerned. That's why I use hard Maple, Rosewood, or Ebony for fretboards. They just don't wick as easily.

Yes. It improves tone by eliminating empty voids between the wood and the fret tang.

Denver, Colorado

I never use cyanide glue.

@@HighlineGuitars Do you use Super glue?

@@AntonioCavicchioni Yes. AKA Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.

@@HighlineGuitars Thank you!

Thanks P G! Very appreciated to say the least!

Fish glue is terrible for this. It melts when exposed to palm sweat. And it stinks. I can always tell a guitar made with fish glue because they attract cats.

Also, if you finish sand the fretboard before installing the fret, some or all of the slots may end up too shallow for the fret wire's tang. This can result in the tang bottoming out before the fret wire is properly seated. It's always better to cut the slots deeper than they need to be and let the CA glue fill the gaps.

Because it doesn’t matter. :)

I apply the glue with a micro tip, so no mess.

@@HighlineGuitars Doesn't it squeeze out and get all over the fretboard? I want to try your method, but I'm scared I'll make a mess out of some really nice ebony if I get CA glue all over it.

@@jasonlipmyer36 if it did, I wouldn’t do it. However, like anything else, it takes practice and skill.

You're wrong. Air gaps cause dead fret.

I actually use glue myself but my point is if it was a dead fret without the glue then it was just a poor fit to begin with. I’ve worked on and played many guitars with flat bottom fret slots with non-glued frets. According to your theory every fret position should be dead. The fact of the matter is if the crown of the fret is sitting nicely down against the top of the fretboard and the tang has a good compression fit into the slot you won’t have “dead fret”. There’s many reasons I like to use glue but glue is just the Cherry on top.

@@spencerdeaton7202 poor fit = air gaps = dead fret.

@@HighlineGuitars I agree 100%

@@HighlineGuitars I thought we were talking about the space directly underneath the tang causing the dead fret.

You're overthinking it. The number of wood fibers cut is so fantastically small, it won't affect stability.

@@HighlineGuitars Maybe adding a slight overcut when programming the radiused cnc cut would set a clearance to tang base along full length, and minimize both the cut fibers as well as any potential unfilled(glue) gaps from a straight cut. No significant time increase.

@@scottseale And don't forget to pray that the depth of the slot isn't reduced after finish sanding the fretboard.

Say you have ebony blank 5mm thick. You cut one slot 2mm deep and another 3mm deep. Now calculate % fibers that got cut for each slot. I will cut less as long as I can install the fret correctly. Plus, that will save me some CA glue.

@@ivanpejovic382 Using percentages as a way to determine the difference is deceiving. 66% sounds like a lot, but it isn't when we're talking about such a spectacularly small amount of wood.

No. Any gap can cause dead fret.

@@HighlineGuitars fair does!

People who don’t use CNC don’t understand how complicated it is to manually program cuts like this. And for what purpose? Using glue with a micro applicator is way easier.

@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the reply! I really never used a CNC, I thought it was just a matter of making the slot floor 'radiused' in Autocad, and the bit would follow. Live and learn.

@@EdBender I don't use Autocad. Way too expensive.

Thanks, Cliff.

I believe in a video long ago, Chris said he's a lefty and i can't say i've ever seen him make anything but right hand guitars.

Yes you have. My stage name is Steve Vai.

@@HighlineGuitars Haha Chris lol

Haha but seriously to actually play guitar you should play guitar Winder episodes

You the guy who just bought a CNC machine?

@@HighlineGuitars No I haven't. But if I ever start building I would definitely buy one.

@@roberthurless4615 Sorry, I meant "you MEAN the guy who just bought a CNC machine." Texas Toast recently bought one.

Coat the surface of the fretboard with paste furniture wax before you apply the CA glue.

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Never tried that before.

Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.