I really prefer all manual too, it just gives me more of a creative control of what I am trying to do, and makes it faster to take 2 shots for exposure bracketing. I leave ISO to full stops and if I have a black bird and no flash, I take a photo at base ISO and one at high ISO and merge them in Lightroom, if I have flash, full manual is also neccesary because you have to adjust ISO to whatever power your flash loses when it is on high speed sync.

Your problem is you are too discerning, lol. I'm happy I'm not the only photographer who realised what you realised, thing is I've been photographing wildlife for over thirty years and I've been aware of the failings of manual with auto iso for a very long time. Trying to explain these issues is very hard to those who don't really understand the fundamentals of photography. I enjoy your films and I'm glad to have found your channel ! All the best from the UK. PS you are obviously enjoying yourself, keep doing what you do and let the others learn the hard way!

Sounds like you are on a fairly normal growth path. My suggestion is to rephrase your message. I bet when you first started out, you did program mode and auto ISO. Then you might have moved to another mode and eventually ended up with manual plus auto ISO. Now you have graduated to full manual. You have also become more attentive to your results as well as your shooting conditions. You have become more aware of what can go wrong in various situations. You have grown and developed. My interpretation of your video is manual plus auto ISO is a valid stepping point in a photographer's development. In today's world, we also have immediate feedback and in the case of the R5, the image just taken shows up in the view finder. So we can see not only the histogram before we shoot, we can see the image immediately after we shoot giving us the opportunity (often but not always) to adjust something -- ISO or exposure compensation depending upon the mode you are shooting in -- before taking the next shot. And we also have aids like "blinkies" for the over exposed areas. Use them all... One of the things that I wish the R5 had is what the 1D, 1Ds, and 1D X models had which is spot metering where the spot is tied to the focus point. I use to shoot musician's on stage. By placing the focus point where it would produce a good composition and using spot metering at that same point, then I would simply put the focus point on the musician's eye and blast away. The camera would focus and expose for the eye correctly. Add in, perhaps, some exposure compensation and you got final quality images straight out of the camera with 90% efficiency.

Ive been on he same journey 😀