took me 7 to upvote your comment

@@Wudanty took me 1 using another button binded as lmb because lmb doesn't work

just imagine how many likes this video could have..

hahahahha exactly my issue right now.

I liked your comment but it got canceled due to the double click issue

Yes and do you feell you go to toilet much easier like button

I literally just bought a new G600 because mine was double-clicking. If only I found this video last week!

@@C_007 Wow, it’s actually been 4 years. The fix gave my mouse another year of good performance.

@@blitzcraig26 It´s possible to change the switch, very cheap.

I agree with every word

Man I discarded my G600 for clicking issues 4 years ago, but I have it somewhere in the house. Me to my G600 : I don't know where you are or how you are, but I will find you, I will fix you!

I tried to upvote your comment, but it double clicked :(

i raged a few times, because the copper spring didnt want stay where it should, but finally.. no unwanted doubleclicks anymore :-)

mee too hehe

Meanwhile I came back to fix this sh*t mouse again, Logitech G Pro Hero

I'll 2nd that. Very helpful video, just pay Very Close attention to how that flimsy little strip goes back on. This helped me get my Razer D/A tuned back up clicking good again.

Well i tried to do this with my Deathadder and the little piece of metal cracked and fell of, so RIP

it took me a few tries to get it back in correctly. also, when i tried to open the switch, it exploded, took me forever to find that little white piece...

Its look so hard.. Maybe ill buy another switch by omron that have more better clicks. Its pretty cheap actually

How would you know, have you done it before? I hate people that see a video and try to give instructions on something they've never done.

I'm happy to see you here! Love your channel.

Thanks for your message about the little piece flying off, I opened the first switch normally and it flew off, but due to you I opened the mouse in an enclosure so it didn't fly and get lost. the second switch I removed upside down, that is much safer way to removed the top cover

I just finished removing that part and I used Scotch Magic Tape: before unlocking the latches, I cut a small piece of tape and placed it on top of the whole upper face of the switch (I used the magic one cause it is easier to tell when it's not making contact with the surfaces, and it's the only one I have lol, I guess any type would work, but be sure it leaves no residue) so when I was sure it was all secured, I proceeded with the latches and I was able to take it off without rotating it down (my mouse is a Logitec M570, so it would have been quite difficult to do it facing down without removing the whole board from the base and without braking anything...)

I read your comment first and then went on to disassembly, thinking...I'll be careful. It flied off like a rocket. But found it. :D.

It's called cost cutting and it's everywhere in tech at the moment. They rather spent .50 on a switch than $1.

planned obsolescence, if they made mice that held for ever their costumers would disappear

u still need to buy a new one . its gonna fall again 3 to 5 month maybe thats happend to me this is not forever fix .but its working :D

Should have heeded your warning, lol. It did fly off but luckily my keyboard was in the way to stop it hehehe.

It flew righy on my leg. I was lucky as fuck

I lost the button of my mouse and now my Roccat Kone+ can not be used anymore ;(

It flew onto my floor at night and had to use a uv light to find it, the uv light made it stand out luckily

I also lost that white one and thankfully found it 😂

thank you

Wished I read this before going at it. Just finished fixing mine a few minutes ago. This would have saved me at least an hour.

Thx, you helped me a ton

Same set the ends then pushed the middle, it's never clear if it's same to hook the two ends then push the middle undercurve part to click because it's so fragile

More durable mouse = less profit. Surprised?

azért mert ha veszel egy jó egeret 20ezerért, jobban megéri inkább megjavitani igy mig szállitják az új gombokat amit vettél aliexpressen vagy ebay-en 2 dolcsiért közben meg jobb minőségüek mint amik van bennük lol

sad-but-true fact: mouse manufacturers would start RENTING their mice out instead of SELLING them if they were forced to build said mice to last. That's because renting out is the most effective way to make money with a product that's built to last.

@@jeffzebert4982 just steal one laaaawl

i believe they really want people to buy new mouse. omron has been around for awhile. 2 of my mouses now has double clicking issues

2022 still works :) now i still need to find a fix for the "Repeat Scroll Down" button, the one you tilt the scroll to the right... sometimes works, sometimes don't... but well... at least my left click is working... lets see for how long

​@@mikethegamer34 you just need to oil the bearing, use wd40 or something like that. Work for me

same here... finally new mouse

Thats because cats doesnt have that little copper plate hahaha

i buy HUANO ali.pub/0dtmu

double click for you

that is actually very alarming. I don't think you should be performing surgery on cats if you think this was hard.

I don't know how I didn't break the mouse in the process haha, well at least it was already broken :P

futsing about... you mean you failed to use the tools used in the video then realized you should have and that's why you couldn't do it?

It's very quick and easy to do with the right tools, in 30 minutes I fixed my both logitech G300s

i realised that if you should place/slide the whole thing in, then only slightly depress the middle spring to lower/push into place for the tension, this way is i feel its damn fast.

@@mark-davidchandler5895 Dont be a dick.

my man just broke the best drag clicking mice

Wonder what the Roccat Kone EMP is in that league... Was a RIP to the left click till I fixed it from this video.

@@lemurmad Look for the switches. Kalih 8.0 are rated at 80M clicks and this is your best bet.

we need the results mate )

Yes, how did it go? Did the mouse survive?

How'd it go?

@@MasterBaetiong but the mouse in a trap carefully it can still bit you then hold its head from the back side and do what you should but it still can run away

@@notanindianscammer3660 LMAO

Here to confirm. Opening the mouse up and getting to the copper thing took only about 30 minutes (with youtube tutorials), despite this being my first time disassembling a mouse. Putting back the copper thing took over an hour, and a fraction of my sanity. It flew off my fingers a couple times, and had to spend a few minutes to look for it on the floor everytime. End result: It actually worked. Fixed the double-click as well as the drag-drop issues. *BUT* I might have messed the copper thing up a bit too much, cause now my mouse button doesn't give a distinct 'click' (both sound and haptic). Nevertheless, it's more than enough for me, especially if compared to buying a new mouse entirely. Someday might try swapping the copper thing of my left and right mouse buttons if I never get the used to this silent-mode MB1.

​@@julliferjosephtuba2202 i dont know if im too late, but i attempted this (saw some other video first) and it worked, but i too lost the 'distinct' click. Though I just figured out what i did wrong, at 3:50 they "click" the middle part of the copper thing back into place, which i hadn't done. I just re-opened my mouse and re-did the fix and i now have the distinct click too!

@@kyuzex bruh you're a savior. Been trying to get that copper piece back into its place for 30m now but the click wasn't there. Thanks!

A thing to note: what this fixed for me was not a double-clicking problem but mouse clicks not registering, as well as losing your click when dragging and dropping. Difficulty: 7/10, be prepared to burn several hours on this. Depending on the mouse, the screws are under the teflon, which will start scratching your mousepad, sometimes even after a lot of trial and error. The Omron shell is small, and it's challenging to see the crevices without proper lighting, but I did this without unscrewing the whole board with the mouse still plugged in to the PC. A sewing pin works for popping off the cover with some trial and error to find proper leverage. The white plastic piece that puts pressure on the copper tends to bounce away when popping off the cover, so be careful! The copper: slides out, as seen in the video, easier to one side and not the other, so don't accidentally bend it. Once I removed the copper piece, I bent the curvy part backwards with a toothpick, but only to the point that the "claw" was even to the base, in a nice neutral position. Inserting it back in will bend it down somewhat, but my clicks still worked fine afterwards, so I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it "neutral". Obviously, be extremely gentle during this step. Mounting the copper part (the most frustrating step): you will either lose your mind at this point, accidentally break the goddarn copper, or lose it somewhere because it's going to slip away every 10 seconds. Ideally, you're going to want to unscrew the whole board, so the shell doesn't interfere with the leverage. I did not and regretted it because the thing is just that fragile. I don't know if the bottom part of the Omron differs ever so slightly from the one shown in the video, but what is hard to see is that there's a tiny crevice in the prong at the center that's supposed to keep the curvy part in place. So, after an hour of trying to figure out how to put pressure on the copper the way you see it in the video (it has to bend, starting like in the video, and then latch onto the prong at the end, so it stays fixed), I eventually figured it doesn't feel like it's snapping in, doesn't click, nothing, it just sort of stays in place, but will fall off when pushed even slightly to the side -- this is the part that's "clickless" because you haven't snapped the curving part into the crevice. The good thing is doing it like the author of the video is doing will eventually work, but it's more helpful to take the casing off of the other switch to see how the copper is fixed in place -- in the video it doesn't look quite right. The final step is just a lot of trial and error, you have to press down on the thing that has to latch into the crevice in the middle prong, but the copper piece is just too unstable. I tried it with a toothpick and with a screwdriver, but I found it's better to apply pressure at a diagonal angle than downwards, at which point the toothpick eventually worked. Don't put the casing back on unless you can press the copper down with your finger, so you can see it doesn't move around or you might bend it beyond repair. The mouse should click normally if you succeed, but not before you assemble the casing. Putting the shell back on seemed trivial, so I won't go into detail. Hopefully, this is helpful to someone because this was frustrating as hell -- and F**K Chinese Omrons.

"Gaming" mouses are a scam. Mouses are the simplest shitty input devices, it's like buying a screwdriver for 10 times more money expecting it to drive a screw much better

Well some gaming mice have programmable buttons, plus they are more comfortable to hold. So no, they aren't scams unless they are WAYYY overpriced.

you are dumb enough to buy a mouse that is worth 80 euros, ahahaha you are laughable

@@dicksonlickson1024 They have a higher response rate and are faster than any normal mouse, and depending on which one you get are usually MUCH more comfortable, along with programmable buttons. But hey, you're obviously just a troll with nothing better to do with your life, and im pretty sure we can tell that simply based upon your username. Lol.

Yup, not only that, if you don't clean them and only start bending the copper, you both risk damaging it and won't fix the actual problem. Instead, take a moment to understand where the electrical loop closes (front of the copper piece), and just insert a wetted cloth underneath it with pliers.

ahh :)

Your fat finger? Fuck that. Even my damn small girly fingers can't put that shit back in.

I mangled it too. Luckily I was able to salvage an omron switch from a dead mouse to replace. And if you don't have one, you can order them for $1 off ebay. Replacing the switch was easy, but then I spent half an hour with rubbing alcohol and double sided tape to get the teflon gliders back on without kinks.

maybe you should lay off the fast food, chubby.

all the sausage fingers!!!!

For me personally (first time doing it) the only hard part (compared to video) was placing copper thingy back and putting in small plastic thing

@@SphinxKingStone yes it took me hour and a half i was soooo annoyed that i ruined my mouse but when i got it back i was so happy but when i tested the mouse it is not as lite as it was but more stronger like i need to push it hard just to click

+az96001 www.ielectronicparts.com/shop/electromechanical/switches/2pcs-micro-switch-omron-d2fc-f-7n10m-for-mouse/

+Max K with that method you would have to solder not every one can do that

+Max K sweet! thanks!

+chozo echo (W.W.P.P) Nah, you transfer the wire from a brand new switch to your old one. No soldering required. Good for when the wire-bending trick stops working.

mice*

I fixed it on my Roccat Kone Pure Military, but I bend it too much and is a bit harder now, hope that get softer overtime. If that happen again I prefere buying a new switch and lose 30min trying to get that little spring plate on place.

Thank you man. After 2 hours of trying I wanted to perform Seppuku, thanks to you I managed to fix it! I've done this twice (today and one more time two years ago) and my mouse works like new.

@@zams4517 not sure what you mean the method I describe has worked fine for me. I just buy a few new springs for like 5 bucks (the entire microswitches which I cannibalize) every few years for my g500. If you are just rebending the same one you are going to lose integrity of the metal and corrosion (ie humidity) will reduce contact sensitivity over time as well.

@@themysticbg Glad I could help I actually figured this out like 6 years ago and then forgot it so I posted the comment to help remind myself as well lol.

@@zams4517 no worries

Instructions not clear. Now the pin is in my stomach

An update. It only ended up working for about a day, took it apart again and it only worked for about an hour. This is the solution, but my spring is just warn out badly. My suggestion is perhaps instead of bending your old spring, just buy a new one. (Got a 6 pack of new switches for 6$).

Same :D But i finaly manged to fix it (now the other half... wish me luck)

I did this on my G600 for the left click. The fix has lasted for 3 years and counting. It took me 4 hours to get that copper spring back in. Now it's my right click's turn . Sigh. I swear, this is a part that can be made modular. Double click issue? Just snap in a new clicker!

ahahaha :D Razor Imperator fuck!!!

G600 has a slightly retarded construction since the dirt falls right onto the switch. I did this for mine 3 times already, last time I used tape to cover the insides as much as possible. Will see if this helps. Still the best mouse ever without any alternatives. Razers and others suck because they don't have classic 3 button construction. Holding G600 is like using those old pre-scroll Microsoft mice with just huge 3 buttons on top. Except of course G600 does also have a scroll and thumb buttons.

If you've had to do it 3 times already compared to my 1 then perhaps you should consider bending that copper part a little more than you usually do. I took note of where it was when I opened it and moved it much further than the original spec (because obviously the original spec wasn't good enough) so the fix would last longer. That's coming from someone who uses their computer 12 hours a day or more. Lots of clickly click clicks.

ok

good thing i have 4 of these that dont have usb sticks to practice on

Hey mine also don't click anymore was it the switch ?

@@fuehwbdb3765 make sure you push that little plate until it clicks, look at 3:45 / I know it cuz i had the same problem

Same!

the more you push the curved (spring) part, the harder you need to press the buttons, for fixing the "double click" problem you just need to brush the contacts (the bump part) with a rubber/eraser

Eh isso ai carai, salvei meu Razor tb nesse lance! Cara é bixão mesmo

It took me around 30 minutes, so yep.

There are 2 little groove in the mid of the metallic piece, you must put the piece of shit in this groove

im going on 3 hours and still haven't manged to keep it staying without jump off when i put the cap back on it

Just out of curiosity...how long did this fix last?

@@retroman7331 I don't know exactly, but it worked at least one year, just recently I opened it for a 3rd time.

+Akash-sama same here,have no idea how to open

+Akash-sama you have to open it from the brackets on the front and back, the piece that connects the black to the white

+Akash-sama Same here mate, almost impossible to open it

+muhdiboy the second click box shown is harder to open, its really different from the front/back.

+Akash-sama have you manage to open it? i really need help

Fixed my g102 with this method also

+Raven. That's so Raven.

Yup thats me

+Raven. look at the bended copper part , it has 2 dents that should hook on that little thingy .

+Raven.You might have placed the cover with white little button WRONGLY....CHANGE IT TO 180 DEGREE....as i made this mistake.....

now I'm afraid to try...

+OverLost420 I know exactly how u felt, just done putting mine together ..

XP

Fuck that was hard to put back together, i have a razer deathadder chroma, if you have the same mouse, are the clicker buttons smaller, cuz mine seemed really small compared to his XD

Taking off the housing is annoying. I recommend patience and a sewing pin. Don't force it.

yeah same , did you managed to fix it after that?

@@richefurea loosen the screw under the RMB a bit.