Thank you. Just keep plugging along, and encourage your son to stick with it. Keep in mind that I've been at it for over 50 years and I STILL have only scratched the surface on what can be learned about it.

Thanks for watching!

Yes, in 2021, I had the left hip replaced in May, the right one in August and the right knee in December. Now, in the spring of 2023, I'm about 30 to 40 pounds lighter and the swelling is gone in my hands. I feel like I'm 20 years younger and the repairs are one heck of a lot easier. Thanks for the comments. Bless you, as well.

Thank you. I'm not a master, though; just a hobbyist with 50 years experience.

Thank you for watching.

You might start by finding a chapter of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors in your area, contact them and ask for recommendations for repairmen in your area. Members of the NAWCC must abide by a code of conduct. www.nawcc.org/local-chapters/

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you. It's nice to know they are helpful.

Thank you for the comment.

I'm doing very well, thank you. The injection has made my life normal again. It is also helpful to live in smalltown America. We definitely have "social distancing" here.

Thanks for watching and commenting.

The lathe is from Sherline. www.sherline.com/ Tools and supplies, including bushings: timesavers.com/ ronellclock.com/ milehiclocksupplies.com/ www.merritts.com/merritts/public/default.aspx blackforestimports.com/ frankenmuthclock.com/ perrinwatchparts.com/

Thank for the concern. I had an injection done to the hip joint. I'm walking without a cane and my hand is no longer swollen. I replaced one of the springs.

Thank you

Here: butterworthclocks.com/ User name and password both butterworth

I've done both in other videos, but here is the basic lathe I use: www.sherline.com/product/45004530-lathe/#specifications

I'm sorry, but I have many viewers from Brazil (Portuguese), France, Germany, Ukraine, Russia, Iraq, India, Malaysia, Korea and Taiwan. I just can't do subtitles for all of them. Besides, I don't know how to put subtitles in any language. I only speak English, German and Korean.

You might like to look into this: support.google.com/translate/answer/6142468?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=en

If you're concerned about the escape wheel and verge not being right, count the number of teeth on the escape wheel and order a replacement set. timesavers.com/c-325836-clock-repair-replacement-parts-verges-verge-components.html Otherwise, I'm not sure what you mean by setting it up properly.

These movements don't have any lacquer on them. That's usually found on better quality movements. When I come across one that has lacquer and the plates aren't stained, I hand-clean them without ammonia, which is the culprit that removes the lacquer. On the rare occasion that I have to clean a plate to the extent that lacquer needs reapplied, I put toothpicks in the pivots holes and spray with a clear lacquer.

@@dperry428 thanks so much for the response.

No, I decided to leave it just as original. I can only assume that there was a reason for the designer doing as they did as it required riveting in another post. In the normal position, the spring must have unwound into the second wheel pinion and stopped the clock earlier than the normal 8 day run time. Looking at the strike side, there were also 2 posts riveted onto the plate to direct the spring coils to the outside of the plates. Assuming there was a reason for doing what was done originally, why create a potential problem by installing it other than the way it was designed?

The one tab should have a tip that is bent and goes into the hole on one of the wheel spokes. That keeps it in place. Sounds as if it is missing on yours. To remove it, that tab must be lifted and the other tabs slid out from the slot around the arbor. If it is forced off, the tiny end may have been bent under and needs be straightened so it can go in the spoke hole. Otherwise, you may need to make a new one from brass shim stock or, perhaps, solder on a tab.

@@dperry428 Wow. That was it, the bent tip is holding it in like a champ. I saw it, but didn't associate it with the hole. Thanks so much.

You're certainly welcome.

Whatever you do, don't let it run like that or it will ruin the tips of the escape wheel teeth. Your problem is likely that the anchor (strip pallet) has been raised out of its proper position. Look at the arbor that holds the anchor. Its pivot on the front of the movement is in a hole in a little tab that is riveted to the plate. It is attached by a hard friction fit and can be moved to allow the arbor and the anchor to fit deeper or shallower into the teeth of the escape wheel. It is set too shallow. Move the tab so it moves the arbor and pallet closer to the teeth. Keep moving it until the teeth are released one at a time. That tab is difficult to move and very, very small movements can make a big difference. You can move it by using a pliers at the base of the tab and twisting it to move the arbor or you can use a punch or screwdriver with a small hammer to tap the end of the tab to move it deeper. Go slowly. When you get the teeth escaping one at a time, examine the teeth very carefully. They may have been bent or the tips of the teeth bent over. They will need to be straightened if they have been distorted. That's done by using a tweezers with a broad, flat end, such as those used by women to pluck eyebrows. Grasp each tooth and repeatedly pull while applying pressure to the tweezers until the tweezer comes off the front edge of the tooth. Repeat each tooth until the ends are returned to their proper shape.

Just got to thinking. My reply was based on a movement with escape gear and pallets between the plates. If you have a movement where the escape gear is outside the front plate and the anchor (pallets) are on a pin held on with an "L" shaped clip. That anchor is also moved in the same way, as the pin that it is on is attached to a moveable tab.

timesavers.com/search.html?q=emery

I don't have that clock here anymore. I don't recall the actual size of the nut. The hand has a slot that fits on the end of the arbor and the nut is slightly cup-shaped and is the only thing needed to secure the minute hand. You could add a domed washer under the nut if you don't have an original nut and need extra pressure to hold the hand. You might like to read this: www.clockworks.com/posts/mechanical-clock-hand-nuts

Thank you@@dperry428

Look to the cam on the third wheel. There is a notch on the cam that has a wire rider that should hook into the slot at exactly the same time as the lever on the count wheel drops into a deep slot. The edge of the notch may be worn, allowing the wire to not catch and stop the strike, or the wire may be bent upward very slightly, keeping it from consistently falling deep enough to stop the strike. Also, the count wheel lever may be dragging on some deep slots, keeping the wire rider on the third wheel from dropping deep enough to stop the strike. Make sure the count wheel lever ("tang") is dropping freely into the deep slots.

I don't remember what the size was. Measure the width and thickness. Measure length the best you can. For the inner coils, it helps to have a cloth tape measure used by tailors and seamstresses to measure chest, waist and hips. When you look up available springs with the same width and thickness, pick one that's closest to the length you have measured. There are only so many available. Here's a list of those available from Timesavers timesavers.com/files/mainsprings.pdf A very common spring for old American-made clocks is 3/4 x .018 x 96 inches.

There's no real magic. With the count wheel lever in a deep notch on the count wheel, the third wheel (the one with the notched cam) should have its lever in the notch and the fourth wheel (warning wheel) should have the pin on it at the top of the movement. It gets tricky keeping them in place during assembly. That's why some people loosen a screw, spread the plates a bit, disconnect the fourth wheel pinion from the third wheel and adjust the warning wheel after assembly.

@@dperry428 I'm currently revisiting this movement for reassembly. Thank you for the advice!

Yes. I had to replace one of them. I think she's pretty special, too. Hope to get to see you guys again.

The bit is a reamer from timesavers.com/search.html?q=reamer&go=Search The battery operated drill is a Milwaukee images.ffx.co.uk/tools/4933440568.jpg?w=1280&h=960&scale=both available where such tools are sold or on Amazon.

@@dperry428 Thank you

If you mean the round one with the half-plate in between, yes, I have one of my own that needs a bushing in the middle plate. At some point, I'll get to doing my own movements that are in need of repair. This is going to be a rougher winter for me. I have had both hips replaced and now will have my right knee replaced in December.

@@dperry428 yes i can relate to that i hate to see the winter come anymore i used to enjoy change of seasons but now it brings on to many aches and pains hope your knee job goes well for you take care and god bless !

And yes thats the one with the center partial plate

What parts are you looking for? Generally, the only way to get parts for these movements is to buy one for parts on ebay. You can buy some things, like pendulum bobs, suspension springs, hands and mainsprings from timesavers.com

Here is one way, with a spring winder: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/atV4dbFnsM65np8.html Here is another way, using a different tool: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gMmFpJeluNCdaH0.html A third way is to put the wheel and spring back between the plates, clamp or tie with wire the wheel to the plate frame, wind the spring, remove the clamp and let the spring down with the let-down key.

Nope! Sorry, but you're wrong on this one. Every image I've found of this exact model movement is put together exactly in this way. I, too, thought the same thing, but the pin was too big and in the wrong place for it to simply be a stop for the spring. In fact, were it simply a stop, it would stop the spring long before the full 8-day run.

I believe you, but what is weird is I have 3 of those running ,same movements all 3 connected to the bottom corner , they all run for 8 days. They came to me like that and thats how I reassembled them .

That's nice.

Just to add, i recently stripped an identical New Haven movement fitted in a school clock and the main springs were fitted in exactly the same way as the movement in this vid, I.e. with one loop over a smaller stud and one around the plate support pillar.

I do not work on watches. Too small for me.

www.esslinger.com/zenith-watch-and-clock-cleaning-solution-concentrate-251na-1-gallon/

I like using an absorbent cloth since I hand dry the parts after cleaning and rinsing. The cloth also catches dropped objects such as flying e-clips. I've been doing this since 1968, I'm 80 years old, set in my ways and not about to change. You're certainly welcome to post your own videos and show us all how you would do the job. It's easy to find proper center. The pivot hole wears in the direction that the wheel (gear) train applies pressure. One side of the hole remains unworn. You'll see me move the wheel train back and forth to see the amount of wear and to identify the worn side. Filing the unworn side an amount equal to the worn side makes the reamer self-center on the original center. Broaches are referred to as "cutting" and "smooth". A "burnisher" is a flat metal tool used to polish and surface harden the pivots of the wheels.

@@dperry428 Thanks for the info on pivot holes! Of course, the tension would be applied in one direction, leaving the other part of the hole unworn....great theory. No offense, but watching the terry cloth repeatedly snag on the movement was painful. I'm between 70 & 80 yrs old. I certainly would try something if I thought it might work better. I have no idea how to make KZfaq videos, nor do I want to. Not criticizing your vid, just the terry cloth on the bench. I have a nice garage shop I just completed, plus a 'hobby lobby' as my friends call it, inside. I worked on clocks in my youth but never got as far as repairing worn pivot holes. I run a repair clinic now that I recently retired. Clocks are walking themselves into my life again. I have mixed emotions about that. Always was difficult to find people willing to pay for the hrs that go into splitting, cleaning, and re-oiling a movement....not to mention actual repair.

Ha, ha! This one is relatively clean compared to some that I've seen. Check this one out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oduqoJxoy87Pm58.html