Thanks. That's an awesome little piece of info! I'm a big fan of blacksmithing, so this makes me happy.

I could never figure that one out -- thanks.

Great to know. Thank you!

You're very welcome!

Send me some pictures of them to the email on my channel's About tab and I'll see if I can shed some light on them for you. There are a LOT of different types of collets out there, so it can definitely be hard to keep tabs on them.

@@StuartdeHaro I"ll do that. I tried them in my tailstock today and the one size is too large and the other is too small. So I have no idea what they're for or even if they go with anything I've got. They may just be random stuff he got in a lot purchase and he couldn't actually use. The unfortunate thing is that I had 30 days to get his shop moved. My home is so over-crowded that it took me three weeks to clear it out enough to move his stuff in. It was so bad that I had machines in my living room and I had to literally climb over furniture. So I've now got it all sorted but I didn't have any time during that period to go over stuff with him in detail which would have been very helpful. Anyway, I'll get some photos and send them to you. I have a couple other items that I have no clue about either. One looks like a cutter of some type. Four bars that converge toward the center that are just off parallel to the arbor. I think it goes in the tail post but no clue really and no idea what it's for.

@@StuartdeHaro OK, I figured out what the odd cutter is. It's marked "Kutmore No 204". It's a Hollow Milling Cutter. Same as this but different model #. www.ebay.com/itm/191452969329

@@StuartdeHaro I just found one of the others by searching the patent. It's this: patents.google.com/patent/US2472040A/en

You know, I don't own any of those. If I come across any of them, I'll try to work them in to another video. Thanks for watching!

@@StuartdeHaro I found out about them when making an offset for the tailstock to turn between centers instead of a taper they make a shape for a ball bearing to be the contact point on each end

@@wnebergall thanks for mentioning these Bill. I've never heard of them before. They make alot of sense for turning tapers.

@@andyZ3500s somewhere on KZfaq there is a video on using a boring head in the tail stock for the off set

@@wnebergall thanks bill I seen a video on the subject. If your shank is removable you can pick up a Morse taper shank for $20. It is a great idea faster to set up and then you don't have to reset your tail stock. Thanks again Andy

Spot drilling first helps a lot. Beyond that, use the best quality sharp drill bit you can.

In my experience, tiny drill bits cut themselves short as soon as I touch them. In all seriousness though, resharpening bits gets pretty challenging in small sizes without a drill grinder. You'd probably be money ahead just searching for ones that are stubbier from your tool supplier.

@@StuartdeHaro Thank you

If wanting "micro drills" with a shorter length then look at your local Jewellery Suppliers. The majority of jewellery drills are shanked 2.35mm (3/32") in HSS & Carbide, the better being German or Swiss made. Busch is possibly the best known. www.busch.eu/fileadmin/custom/pdf/busch_J_spiralbohrer_de_en.pdf HTH, Colin

So do I! It's like we're twins! I have sets by Precision Twist Drill and Cleveland and neither were terribly expensive. My recommendation for any cutting tool is to buy quality so it only hurts once. The first set I ever bought was an imported number drill set for around $30 and every time I used them I started using all the fun words my grandpappy taught me.

@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart. I'll check em out.👍

Hi Felix. I don't mind at all. Typically counterbores are run at a speed 1/3 less than the same size drill, so you definitely don't want to use the same speeds. Let me know if you have any other questions.

@@StuartdeHaro Thank you so much!

It seems like it my be OK. A2 is tough stuff so use your eyes and ears. Look at the chip you're getting and watch for that typical curly drill chip you get with steel. That indicates the right feed. Now look at the color. Steel color is fine, but you can probably go at a higher RPM. Tan to royal blue, you're good. Light blue to gray, slow down a bit. Lastly listen. Squealing is bad and it could come from too high a speed or too light a feed or both. Either way the tool is rubbing and vibrating and that will damage carbide and burn up HSS. This is a quick and dirty explanation that is probably oversimplified, but it will get you through. Thanks for watching!

@@StuartdeHaro Thank you very much! I appreciate your time.

I'm not sure. I've never done it, but my brother has. I'll ask him and get back to you.

I asked my brother for you and he said they were regular drill bits, so I'm guessing they were Silver and Deming bits. I vaguely remember seeing the setup (we both worked at Kmart and he was the sporting goods manager). I remember they had a drill press in a storage closet and that's where they did the deed, but I never did it and it has been 25 years.

Thanks Stuart

You're very welcome!