He forgot to mention 1 crucial detail. Before removing the connector of the heater and thermistor from the backside, it is a GREAT idea to pry off the glue securing the connectors. As the connectors are less securely attached to the metal spikes soldered to the board, than how strong the glue can hold.em togehter, so you can yank the plastic socket clean off the board if you are not careful. P.s.: On the upside the metal spikes ofc. still remain solderex to the board, so you can replug the socket, it will just look damn ugly, and be damn scary.

I dont know that this glue can be removed. When hot glue is used some IPA will cause it to come right off but the glue use in this case is not that. Doing the back and fourth wiggle with the connector was not too difficult to get it to break the seal in the glue. With how small the connectors are I almost feel it could be as easy to damage trying to remove the glue with something sharp.

I appreciate it. I really try to cover as much as I can to prevent accidents from happening. Of course some will think it is too much and there will be some items I maybe miss but I definitely consider as many aspects as possible when putting something like this together.

Thank you, random stranger. You may have just solved a problem I didn't know I had.

First time hearing about these thank you. I will get a pair in.

I didn’t find the exact ones but it ordered the i fixit pair that has a 45 degree at the end that comes to a fine point. Will give them a go.

you have many confounding factors in there. Thermistors are the same probs on stock AND flowtech. or the same type at the very least, otherwise flowtech would show incorrect values.

that's awesome, good to hear. I have a K1 at home and I'm loving it also but I have only used PLA. I guess I should get to work using some other filaments. Are you still using a .4 nozzle? I switched to .6 and saw no quality difference at all. I like it a lot.

Is that .4 nozzle and what do you use for setting for the polymax i.e speed and temp for nozzle and bed

@@rlbrlb5109 40mm/s 270c 105c. 112% extrusion. Stock nozzle. No bed glue

If you think it prints good now, put the micro swiss in and you will have perfection.

In a lot of these cases it is so small that it is not possible. That is why I recommend at least getting as close to it as possible. Minimize the strain on the wires.

@@ModBotArmyyou can typically grab the included flat head screw driver and wedge it in the side of the connecters and pry/twist on each side usually will do the trick

You recommend it? I'm getting my k1max in one week. Should I order this and install asap? Or see if it's needed

@@giinnoo08I’d also like to know if people really recommend this. I’m currently having random under extrusion and it’s destroying my prints. I’m considering this as an upgrade but would like to know if others have had an under extrusion issue?

no problems here. @@raymondmcgreal2635

This hotend is garbage. Get a Triangle Labs CHCB-OT with a Z+ nozzle. They're way better.

It was one of my first questions to them about the install 😂. Glad I included it 👍.

Any further issues?

Same here. VERY difficult to get that plug out and a definitely cracked a chunk of it off. I had to meticulously cut the glue off. Obviously, this is on Creality and not Micro Swiss but it would be helpful for this tip to be in the video...

Ordered mine today

No mention of needing it. It’s a mixed bag as far as printers/hotends that I have running with or without thermal paste.

@@ModBotArmyI'd be interested in what they would have to say about why the cooper coupler doesn't need thermal paste if they didnt provide any and don't reference it in their instructions should you get the opportunity to ask

I was wondering the same. Yes it gets more flow but in the end it doesn't seem to matter when printing. The only benefit I found is that this new nozzle is leak-proof.

unfortunately no. the hot ends are designed differently.

Lmao. This is not quite that long but yeah the super volcano may need a power tool 😂

It's called the Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle - for FlowTech™, and they are $23.75 each. "Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle is an ideal nozzle for all applications. Core of the nozzle is made of high-temperature Copper Chromium Zirconium and plated with an Electroless Nickel Plating. This special alloy retains its strength at much higher temperatures compared to a regular copper alloy. The tip of the nozzle is made of M2 Hardened High Speed Steel and coated with a special nonstick nano coating."

I thought I had stripped screws when I replaced my original hot end due to breaking the wires trying to remove a filament blob that coated the outside of the hot end. It turns out that some of the material had coated the screws above the hot end and was locking the screws from turning. I saw a suggestion to try holding the tip of a soldering iron to the head of the allen screw for 2.5 minutes then quickly remove the screw with your allen wrench before it has a chance to cool down. That worked easily for me.

Another suggestion is using a 1/16" ball end wrench or hex key in the stripped out hole. It is slightly larger than the 1.5mm hex key. The ball end works a little better since it is oversized the taper helps it fit if the 1/16 hex key wont quite fit.

As far as I know it has always been. It just launched so unless they had an immediate revision I am unaware of they should have all had them.

Stringing = dial down the heat, possibly flowrate but heat first

K1 can be had on sale as low as $350. I have 100+ hours fault free, couldn't be happier. I am still interested in Bambu's offerings, but I hear they may pack some of the new A1 tech into the P1, so I'll likely wait for a model refresh.

Micro Swiss has been making quality upgrades for printers for many many years. Creality launched this printer and already had 2-3 extruder revisions and a hotend revision due to issues. If you want to chance it with the stock hardware thats fine. You may have no issues. Some have experienced leaks and clogs already. $65 for a hotend is mid ranged price wise and less than most others. If you are happy with the stock hotend thats great, but many would rather not chance it. The design on this setup removes the possibility of a heatbreak leak.

@@ModBotArmy Honestly, I‘d have that opinion too, if I was paid whatever they pay you for a review (I estimate a 4 to 5 figure amount). From our point of view, it’s just a part, that replaces another working part for no tangible reason. I‘m not mad at you for making a profit (in fact I support that!), I just feel like most 3d printing related channels are evolving into shills, because it pays best. That’s quite the opposite of what the 3d printing community should stand for.

I wish it was anywhere close to that amount. I have always pride myself on transparency with my audience. Any review I do covers good and bad. In some cases I look hard to find things to nitpick at because perfect does exist. This is not a review, it is an install video intended to help someone who purchases this hotend. Because of all this shill calling I am seeing more and more creators lean into it. In a sense I can understand it. If you are going to do your best to be fair and cover both sides but still be called a shill there is no winning. I have gotten this far by doing what I feel is right and trying to be as transparent as possible. The goal has always been to help others be it a tutorial or just sharing my experience. Largely I feel that is what we are doing and what I plan to continue doing. @@maximilianlindner

Cold nozzle swap. Worth it for that alone.

​@@ModBotArmy Some people just don't understand the mod life! I guess he also hasn't had nightmares occur with hot swapping 😅 I personally thank you for this video, sponsored or not they trusted you with their product, you need to make money and we need good Intel from a reliable source. I don't get why everyone thinks everyone should just do these things for free but here we are! Thank you, and please any mods you test out that make the k1/k1 max let us know!

The flow is just a bonus. The removal of leaks and ease of changing is what you are paying for. It’s a higher quality hotend.

My understanding would be that this only applies when current is present and would be accelerated in the presence of moisture. There would be no need for a zinc separation barrier between the dissimilar metals under normal heat cycling, as this application does not have any voltage passing through it. The only issues that might arise would be from the difference in expansion rates, but that seems unlikely with the miniscule rates of size/temp/cooling for this application.

@@notedmastrmind difference in electrochemical potential is a source of current. I may be wrong about the temperature though.