Tapping it while loose causes a spark on the chamber causing the sensor to kick on igniter. I do not believe that makes it a bad sensor. Mine does the same thing

I am not sure if you can get the seals separate. If you bought a used valve, I can see them being cracked or if it was old stock that was warehoused. I can't think of any reason they would need special material. The heat moves away from the valve not towards it.

It makes no sense for the valve to be defective, it would come as a Nat Gas valve, so you would have to convert the new valve to propane. It's the size of the orifice and adjustment of the diaphragm that you need to pay attention to. Sounds to me like it's still Nat gas and the conversion wasn't done properly, there may be KZfaq video on proper conversion depending on your brand/model. Local appliance parts department can look up if there's a conversion kit for your model, and you can search accordingly.

The igniter should not stay on indefinitely, under normal circumstances, once the flame sensor 'sees' the igniter glow bright enough, the flame sensor will open, giving voltage to the main coil to open up. If your igniter is staying on indefinitely, you could be looking at a flame sensor that the contacts have fused internally. You can test this by smacking it with the butt end of a screwdriver after the igniter glows bright. It should release the contacts and the gas should flow and ignite like normal.

It's not common for there to be high pitch squealing only when gas valve is on. Everything electrical on the valve is @ 60 hz, which is a very low frequency. It could be a coincidence or heat is affecting certain parts, something in your mechanical assembly may have failed like rollers or idler. That is a very old dryer. You can just turn it on 'air dry' for no heat, no need to switch the gas off. It will power the coils if you turn the gas off at the wall.

@@electronicsprojects4708 I'm guessing the gas is leaking because I partially turned Off the gas valve at the wall and the high-pitch squeal Stopped! The dryer continued to dry the clothes. My other guess is the valve has sediment at the tip causing that sound from the pressure of the gas. I'll pull it apart again and clean the tip and heating assembly and tighten the screws on the valve and turn the gas shut-off valve fully On again.

I would suspect gas valve coils are going out. They are no.1 for intermittent heat failure. Thermostat controls the temperature, usually sits on the blower/exhaust housing.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you sir !!

If the drum just stops turning mid cycle, the motor typically overheats, then you have to wait and after 5 minutes or so, you can restart it. For a gas smell, if the gas valve is leaking, you can get a gas smell when the dryer is not working. Both are pretty expensive issues.

which you had gotten an answer. same issue im having even after coil replacement and its the only thing i can think of

Check the current draw with clamp meter over the one wire of the igniter. It must be minimum 3A

I have never needed to replace the spring for the regulator and they are not sold separately that I have seen. They are Natural gas by default. I can say that if you increase or decrease the pressure, the amount of gas will also increase or decrease, so if you have too small or large a flame, adjust accordingly by eying it. Propane does use a smaller orifice.

Thank you, ya this model you can replace the spring and the regulator. Thought I might need to replace the whole gas valve assy. but I replaced the spring and regulator and that seems to have fixed it. But unsure how far to screw it in, when I removed the old one it seemed to be all the way in. Spring and regulator $35, valve assy. almost $300. Already replaced solenoids but that didn't fix. Thanks for time and expertise.@@electronicsprojects4708

I'm not a specialist however, this sounds like the limit sensor needs to be replaced.

This is an advanced repair, if you are not an appliance tech, I think it would be difficult to do. The solenoid coils are different, I recommend keeping track of the parts you take out and putting them back in the same places.

You will get a rattling noise if you have defective gas valve coils, but only if the burner doesn't kick on. You may have reassembled the valve incorrectly. Thermal limiters usually fail when there is low air flow, so check that air flow outside where it lets out.

yes, this is so if one leaks, you haver a 2nd valve as a backup.

It's more complex than that. The piggyback pair of coils (hold and assist) are configured in a way such that the gas supply shuts off in the event of a power interruption so that the ignition sequence is forced to restart from the beginning. This prevents gas to build up in the drum during the time it takes for the radiant sensor to close, the ignitor to re-heat, and the main valve to open. It's genius devise that is extremely safe but much more than for redundancy.

The flame sensor does open when the igniter gets hot enough, that's why there is a window in the flame sensor, so the radiated heat from the igniter can get to the bi-metal. After that, the flame of the burner provides the heat needed to keep it open after the igniter switches off. This is part of the safety feature of this valve. Good point, it's called a 'flame sensor' but really it's a 'heat sensor', no heat, it closes, add heat, it opens, not 'brightness' as stated in the video, good catch.

@@electronicsprojects4708 I’m currently working on my son’s gas dryer Maytag Bravo XL MGDB850YW3. The flame sensor, igniter, all thermal cutoffs, thermal fuse, thermistor (at room temperature) test good. What’s happening is that I see a normal start - igniter glowing red, flame sensor contact then opening and the gas valve opening producing flame. It stays on for about 5 seconds and goes off. The igniter does not come on again immediately after gas flame goes out but restarts after 60 seconds ( is this the reset time for flame sensor??). This also happens in Timed cycle which some YTubers say Is supposed to bypass the thermistor and moisture sensor. I didn’t find wiring diagram in the dryer or on web to confirm this. I have already replaced the gas valve solenoids with no success fixing the problem. I thinking the next components to replace are the gas valve and/or the control board. I’m thinking it’s the gas valve. I want to setup up a test to monitor gas valve voltage at gas solenoids valve when it goes out. What are your thoughts.

@@y2kroxy clogged vent will do this, to test you can take the vent hose off the back then perform the same test. The burner stays on longer than 30 seconds, if you have a clear vent.

@@electronicsprojects4708 When I opened the dryer to troubleshoot, there was a lot of lint. After this I proceeded to clean the dryer and clear the vent before I started the troubleshooting . I did a voltage test on the solenoids and found that there was voltage to the solenoids when the gas flame turns off so this ruled out the gas valve. I next proceeded to place a switched jumper across the cycling thermostat. I closed the switch and started the dryer- the gas flame remained on as long as the switch was closed. So I removed the thermostat and found that if I shake it I can feel a rattle. So even though the thermostat test good when it’s cold it opens up - when it feels 5 seconds of gas flame (which to me should not be enough to trigger it. I’m ordering and replacing the thermostat next. Thanks for your video which helped me understand how the gas valve works.

The hold coil and assist coil (piggy-back pair) both energize immediately pulling up the first plunger. The main solenoid coil is not energized because there isn't a voltage drop across it because the radiant sensor is contacts closed. The voltage goes through the radiant sensors closed contacts directly to the assist coil and the HSI which begins to glow. After the warm-up period the radiant sensor contacts open. This does 3 things: 1. It provides the voltage drop across across the main valve which now opens. 2. The assist coil, having done it's job powers down. 3. Similarly the HSI powers down. (both remain in the circuit but the voltage is too low once the main valve is energized for them to operate). With both he main coil energized and the hold coil (having done it's job) gas now passes through the valve and is ignited by the HSI which is on its way to powering down but still hot enough to ignite the gas. Once lit it's the heat from the gas flame which keeps the radiant sensor contacts open. The 'assist' coil does just as its name suggests: it assists in pulling up the first plunger. The 'hold' coil does just as its name suggest: it holds the plunger up. Neither one is strong enough to pull up the first plunger but the hold coil IS strong enough to keep the plunger up once it contacts the solenoid magnet. The main coil is strong enough by itself to pull up the second plunger to allow gas to pass through the valve to the burner assembly. The inherent safety built into this configuration prevents the build up of gas in the dryer drum if a power failure occurs. The hold coil drops the first plunger (main plunger also drops) shutting off the gas. When power is restored the hold and main coil will energize but without the assist coil at full power no gas can pass by the first plunger until the radiant sensor contacts cool and close and the sequence starts again. That's how this works. It's really genius.

It's going to matter since one is the booster coil and one is the hold coil.

They are not interchangeable. Put them back in the same place.

Just open it up, make sure you know the order you took it apart and don't get the valve parts confused. Test the two springs, making sure they are not broken. If you are getting a good ignitor glow, if the igniter never shuts off, the flame sensor is failed. If the igniter cuts off but there's no ignition or gas flow and you already replaced the coils, the valve is defective.

Flame sensor is good. I took off the valve assem and smacked it a few times on a wooden workbench then popped it a few times with a mallet. Double checked my coil connection/harnesses and it works. Thx for quick feedback

@@Jake-xm6fl Wow is that a recommended repair technique? Smack it on the bench then pop it with a mallet? :)

That is typically a symptom for defective gas valve coils, if you test the coils cold, you will get a good reading. They only test bad when you have run them and the gas does not ignite. (when the are hot) You can also heat them up to test them, but I would just instal the new coils and test the dryer.

the method in the video is the only one you can use to try to fix a gas leak from the valve.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks a lot for the reply. Do you mean to use silicon grease to seal the seating and the coils? Is that some special type of silicon grease? Thanks again.

@@xmyn no, it's standard silicone grease, you can buy it at car parts store or Amazon, Ebay. Super Lube 93003.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for the advice. I did exactly what you showed in the video and sealed the leaky valve. I had to do it twice, I guess the first time I didn't put enough grease and a small trace of gas was still detected. Hopefully this will last for a while. I was lucky the valve of my dryer is located in the front so I had just enough room to work on it without taking it off the gas pipe. Thanks again, really appreciate it!

@@xmyn you're welcome, I do this repair about once a year, I haven't had it fail to where a customer called me back yet. If all is done correctly, it's a solid repair and cost saving as those valves are expensive and a pain to replace. Cheers.

Is the igniter glowing? Can you hear the clicks from the gas valve coils engaging?

There is a metal sleeve that is inside the large coil. When the coils were changed, the sleeve may have gotten stuck in the old one and thrown out. It prevents rattling. I believe it comes with the gas valve as an assembly, can't get it separate that I'm aware of. If the rattle sound happened before changing the gas valve coils, you probably just have a metal to metal rattle. Try tightening up all the 1/4" screws you can find in the area. Sometimes you can wedge something between the metal brackets and it will go away.

@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you so much for the help. I will go back in there and take a closer look at the metal sleeves you mentioned. The rattling was before the coils were changed, so probably the previous owner did changed the coils throwing away the sleeves. Thanks again and happy new year!!!!

@@electronicsprojects4708 I have a 2 year old Maytag mgd7230hw and there is a random and loud buzzing sound coming from the coil/valve section when fired up. Replaced coils and checked sleeve, didn't fix it even when I'm applying anti-rattle pressure everywhere outside coils. Hence its inside and I'm starting to think is one of the spring loaded internal valves which you show in your video. When it isn't buzzing, I can whack it with a wooden handle and make it buzz (yes, the "whack it" method;). New gas control is $200. Sheesh.

@@zhbh101 Make sure it's not just the frame rattling with the valve/burner support. If you put it on 'air dry' and the sound is still there, then it's not the valve.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for your reply. No, it only happens with flame-on and I have grabbed, pried, pulled on everything. It's in the gas valve. Honestly, I think its in the regulator... when I tap it on top it always buzzes. Loudly. Hard to believe. In fact I'm sitting here writing this and listening to it from next room. Only $207 for a new one. Dryer only 2 years old. Sheesh.

sounds like defective gas valve coils

@@electronicsprojects4708 That was it, I tested the coils and one of them was an open circuit. I replaced that coil with a coil that tested good from another Maytag DG309. The dryer now works without issue.

279834 is good coil set for your dryer. If igniter continues to glow and does not shut off, you probably have a defective flame sensor, mounted on side of burner tube, next to igniter). If the igniter glows then shuts off, make sure the gas valve is turned on (at the wall).

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for confirming I have the right kit. On the 1st attempt the igniter turns on and then I hear a loud click which turns the igniter off. Initially at the 1st igniter glow I don’t see a flame. But if I continue to run the dryer for a bit (10min) or say after 3 or more attempts of the igniter cycle I do get a flame. The flame begins really small. It does grow as the cycle continues. I don’t know how big is big enough but the drum does begin to get warm at this point. The dryer has not been used in 3 years. The last I recall when it 1st stopped working years ago it was totally cold and you would smell gas during its cycle. I don’t believe the gas value was touched, it’s a little metal thumb screw that matches the base metal of the gas pipe sitting at the wall behind the machine. Maybe it’s not open all the way? I don’t know which way to turn it. Being that it’s a little difficult to reach behind the machine it intimates me somewhat in the event of checking for leaks. My parents house was probably built around 78 so it may take some force to help rotate it.

@@tomoprime217 sounds like you have a gas flow problem, I don't think it's the dryer's gas valve. It sounds like it's not getting enough gas from the wall. If you are not confident, I would recommend a professional to check the gas pressure is good to the dryer.

@@electronicsprojects4708 strange enough, after actually using it on wet clothes it seems to dry them as it did before just fine. Maybe I am just over thinking things.

Over the years, applying silicone grease has been successful for me.

@@electronicsprojects4708 which grease should be use ? Any reference code ???

@@Beeman1972 Super Lube 93003 O-Ring Silicone Grease

yes

@@electronicsprojects4708 Hi do u know which side the longer piston goes. I took mine out now I can't remember which side it came from whether the primary or secondary valve

@@lucile1919 It's been a while, I will set them in order when I take it apart, so I don't remember which is which. Best I can tell you is try one first, then go with the other if it doesn't fit.

@@lucile1919did you figure it out? I just ran into this issue and came to comments to see if anyone else had this happen to them.

the flame in there burner ignites the gas that comes out of the orifice.

if you open the dryer door, when it's not in operation, the drum will have a gas smell, if its real bad, you can smell it when you enter the laundry room.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Ok thanks, no gas smell.I just got a whirlpool gas dryer that was still in the box and never opened that was bought in 1990. When i hooked it up it took a few times before the burner fired. But when it didn't lite, i could smell gas. But after i ran it for a while it seems to be fine. Maybe air in the line at first?

@@lar4305 that old of a unit, you could have had a sticky valve, hopefully it just got unstuck and that's it.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Yeah sounds right. So far all is good, thanks

Hi WACKO, I only wish you had as well as pointing this out mentioned which one goes where. It looks like the short one goes on the front or 3 prong coil side & the long one goes on the rear or 2 prong coil side from watching the video several times... I think I have it correct. If you know which goes where a response would be much appreciated.

in changing the gas valve coils, you may have not tightened the bracket down enough, or the seal was already compromised and you set it over the edge when you replaced the gas valve coils. I would use a silicone grease, apply it to the seal and put it back together. See if that works. If not, you will have to change the gas valve, they don't sell the individual components separately.

@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you, I will try and let you know.

My videos are for technicians. If you have a fear of gas, I recommend leaving it to the pro's.