Wow what a fantastic build video my freind, I learnt alot from this video, you done a great Job, he will be so happy with it 👍😁👍

Very interesting video ! I did purchase all those items, now waiting for the 3 metal differential axles and drive shaft!

Great tip on the positive and negative switched on the motor, my WPL C24 has the same "issue".

Thank you now with the info I'll try again. Best, Ed

Really enjoyed the video. Just bought my first wok b-16 military truck. Will be looking forward to see more videos. Actually want to start a hobby on this!

so great video..now I know how to upgrade the electronic...thank you my friend👍👍👍👍😍

That works so much better 👍

감사합니다

Great video i just got the 4 wheel model rtr and im sure its gonna need these up grades👍👍

stock trans motor (130) is a bit wimpy, a lower RPM 180 torque motor (from/for WPL) are a lot better, especially for 6 wheels. next on the list for the B1 etc (straight frame rails!) is the motor/gearbox output sits up too high, stressing the U-joints. I used thicker aluminum flashing to make lowering plates, drop it down about 1/2" (coffee can bottom tin can work to make them too) will take the extreme angles out of the driveshafts. a little flat black paint you wouldn't notice unless you pointed at the trans lowering plates. it'll help keep U-joints from popping apart or breaking etc. haven't had any problems with the plastic gears after making and putting spacers in behind the bushings. used a 1 hole paper punch through matchbook cover, CA'd them in with the bushings then drilled through the paper card stock... meshes the plastic gears a little tighter, and the bushings being .050-.060" further apart allow less wobbling around on those short shafts. if you can easily get 3 x 6 x 2.5 mm plastic bushings to replace all 8, that'll do it too. I tried with bronze oilite type, and couldn't fit the shafts splines through them, so I stayed with plastic and greased the heck out of em. if the gears mesh TOO darn tight, just make a paper gasket for the input axle cover, it'll back the small bevel gear out a little bit. the RTR's come with the harder tires, you can soften them up a bunch by mashing the heck out of them in your hands for about 5-6 minutes each, flipping them inside out and back along the way helps. doing it also scrubs away mold release so they lose the gloss. when GearBest had the RTR B1 on sale for 20 bucks, I just couldn't resist! made a quick windshield to pop in it, some silver paint to the headlights and "winch cable", wiped out the WPL-B1 markers it had everywhere in white paint. it's the army green, and thinking about making a set of little slotted black-out headlight covers like I'd seen in so many WW2 type movies so an aircraft won't see it as easily to drop a bomb on it. left the stock Tx-Rx in it but did drop in the 3D printed dual geared N20 motor trans with a pair of 6v 400 RPM motors so it'll crawl not run.... I'd seen the stock ESC can't put out much and are prone to failing, run time is now like "forever" on stock 6v pack. easy others... a servo plug into the receiver you can get the headlight LED's re-lit, even drill into the rears for adding 3 mm red LED "tail lights". the inside "foil side" of a potato chip bag makes pretty good looking side mirror inserts.

Nice and simple. I wish there was a place to learn the simple electronics.

Amazing

I can't wait for the day that you are working on your king. Blackfoot RC truck. I will double record that video knowing that you are going to do everything it needs.

Hope that you are going to do the motor too. I found that the stock one didn't have enough torque to turn all six wheels on mine.

Thanks for the video. Very informative. We’re you able to use the remote cane with RTR to that upgraded receiver? Also, got a diagram showing the wiring of components? Thanks much.

oh... servo steering arm! slap a round rubber servo grommet into the drag link, and brass ferrule through center of that, gives about zero slop. Gabriel Silvaz showed that idea.

Watching your video make me want to upgrade my truck. I have the same one as you have on the video and it is hard to drive and control. Do you have a list of all the electronics used on the video including the controller? Thank you

I’m trying to do the same to my c14 but struggling with a beeping motor (plus I’m adding a second servo as a gear change). Just wondering if you’re able to sketch up your connections on this as I’m not sure what connections from the ESC go where etc?

Hey bud could you do me some picture of exactly where all the wires connect to and go

I tried that 20amp ESC with my WPL, tested it with a 7.4V battery, from a HUINA 1550 excavator, the ESC got real hot real fast, and the batter made a weird whirring sound. Wondering why, as the product page claims that the ESC can handle up to 9.4V

Help please! I have a problem i have the same electronics but when im turning the wheel from transmiter right the wheels from rc truck are going left, fo you mabe know where the problem is?

Well, I have to write to thank you here since this was my actual baptism in the RC world, if we do not count the micro RC I bought 20 years ago and never used and I'm now restoring. So you made me going to get this cheap RTR truck that I'm now upgrading to the full, after a thorough static military modeller (again myself) paint job. Naturally in my ignorance I also bought the same receiver (but I have no transmitter!) and Esc, but ended up with a full WPL Sound System v3 all-in-one upgrade with progressive steering and throttle, diesel fx and led lights I still have to install. I upgraded to full metal gear and full metal middle axle with separate shafts front and rear, and the same universal metal transmission you also end up installing. At this moment is running an 180 that makes a huge difference to the out-of-the-box 130 motor but I going to install the 370: even so it's a really enjoyable RC. My next improvement should go to the leaf suspensions, as I'd like to check the whole metal solution. In the end this WPL model is going to cost almost as another HG P6xx or P8xx, but it also keeps me busy figuring out solutions and applying them on the workbench to finally have the satisfaction of seeing it run as it should, and gaining the experience of a dynamic modeller... Cheers

is there anything wrong with the original reciever? or is the upgrade a big improvement? also what would be better a 180 proportional motor or a 370 motor?

Im pretty dumb when it comes to rc things but does this come proportional throttle and its the turning you gotta fix? And if so which servo would be a good choice for this

Love your vid! I recently purchased a JJRC Q60 (6x6)... I can really need some help or advice on what to buy to upgrade the electronics??? #desperate

nice viedo, well made. I got the 4wheeldrive model and i would like to know if i can put the servo using the original ESC because i don't want to change the radiocontroller too. please help me! ;) thanks a lot

Thank you for your little video, but would you have a link to buy the servo, and the esc and references?

Hello bro I have question can i use the 20A ESC with wpl b14 incoming battery(6V Ni-Mh 800mAh and if im not wrong its 5S like yours) will it works fine or burn?

hey mate, im wondering if that esc has a lipo shutoff for when the lipo gets to low? ive managed to get the battery esc and reciever in the battery area and i dont want the battery to explode from being overdrawn. thanks in advance

Bought what it seems the same esc but keeps blinking red, no throttle response. What am i doing wrong?

hi..may i know how to connect the switch?connect to baterry incoming?thanks

Great. I have wpl 30 amp upgrade esc but no clue which wire goes to which. I need to learn more. Nice video. I'm trying to bv get more low end torque. Have 180 motor, stock board/esc may try lipo battery and 370 motor.

Nice work on your truck. Can I ask where you found the resistors. I tried eBay and other sites, no luck!

I wonder if this axle aplicable for 1/10 chassis like bruiser or highlift..

I’ve got the same esc your using, but I can’t get the drag brake to work.

Does this esc have a strong drag brake? I’m looking for a micro sized esc that will stop my WPL from freewheeling when descending steeply👍

very nice, you have a dacia 1300 station wagon model. I have the whole collection "collectible cars" :)

You used esc is precise to control speed as per throttle movement. It will heat up during used rc car .

Could you do a upgrade video on the SZJJX RC 1/14 crawler

My steering servo keeps running constant going one way dose not turn when I turn the nobe so I bought a new one

If you wired those leds in series you wouldn't need those resistors sir. I enjoyed your video I'm looking to buy a B16 kit but not sure what to buy. Should I get the metal parts kit too? I see you upgraded the servo why? Thanks Don

Nice upgrade brotha!

can i use the original transmitter with the flysky receiver. will they bind properly

Do you think a mini tamiya 180 black motor would fit these or a slot car motor

Hi, which battery (upgrade) do you sugest for wpl 6x6 with 370 motor? Originally there is 6v 700mah battery, can I put in battery with higher voltage? 7,2V?

Hi, great video! would you recommend this type of ESC for a Radio Shack MadRat / Radio Shack 4X4 off roader ? I will run it with a NiMH 7.2 battery pack. I don't want to spend so much on a hobbywing ESC (around $25) and would like to keep the upgrade cost at minimum. hope to hear back.

Did you use the original transmitter with the new receiver?

where did you find those JST connectors?...great video

Nice blue Renault 12 break.

Hi what electronics did you use and where can I get them

How did u put the servo to the chasis??

Where did you get the linkage arm?

Hi I have the same ESC and car as you but I can't find out which battery It can run can you help me?

Thanks for the video ! Do these use 12mm hex on the wheels ?

Do you know where to get the parts you upgraded? My son's seems to disconnect and cause the truck to be undrivable.

I will probably lower my motor/transmission in the frame to improve the drive shaft angles.

Hi, I can't understand where to insert the light plugs. Is it on the esc or the receiver? If receiver, then how? As the light plug only has 2 pins while the sockets on the receiver are 3 pin. Please help me out.

are you using a 3channel receiver?

Hi. I just bought one RTR for 21 usd in china. Will be upstanding it. Can’t believe what you can get for 21 usd. Body and suspension is great. But does need some upgrades.

How are you making out with the king Blackfoot front in parts in the super black Foot front and parts please comment back

Where did u get the upgraded servo, esc and reciciver

I have the eat01 what esc fits that for a upgrade

No need to remove the bumper to remove cab, just undo 2 rear cab screws and slide cab rearwards and up :) Definitely get hold of a 180 motor, the RTR 130 is very weak. Best thing for these is the 2 speed trans with 370 motor, but then you'll need to upgrade driveshafts and axle gears. *Edit - looks like it's already got a 180 ;)

Can i know what you use the remote?

whats is your esc 10Amp, 20Amp or 3Amp?

What would happen if u didn’t put the capacitor for the headlights??

What ESC stand for, part of electronics... electric sesrvo?

hi alberto can you post the resistor needed for head lights please thank you

i need a Rc truck please tell me sir

where i should connect led cable to?

could you put the intens links?

120 ohm resistors?

what battery do you use?? link

Show,,,,,,,,,

This dont tell me anything. TELL WHAT PART# by PART i need,show a list! & were to find it.go slow

Nice video! Subbed! Check out my rc channel when you have a chance.