The best thing about you and RC GUY is that when or if you guys find flaws in a product you explain and show why it’s a flaw. Then you help show everyone interested in that product if it’s possible to make it better/stronger. 💡💪💯

Reading these comments and I’m baffled. This truck on 8s is nothing short of amazing and a complete adrenaline rush. I actually can’t believe how good this truck drives when you get on it and drive it like you stole it. THIS TRUCK WILL NOT DISAPPOINT. Put this thing on the dirt or on a track where it belongs.

Still gonna buy it. There is not one perfect R/C car out there and all need some mods or some bracing, just how it is. The fun is working on it too, just cant beat it and all be perfect forever.

A little flex is good. Heavy bashing and no flex is bending and breaking. Deciding on the Baja Rey or the Rock Rey. Unfortunately neither are available.

I gotta say, these issues don’t seem like a big deal at all. Def not enough for me to not buy one. The oily trans housing is most likely from grease flinging off gears and permeating the plastic housing. The tire rub on rear fenders is pretty normal for lots of trucks, my 1/10 Rey does the same as well as my Slash. If you run the suspension soft, it’s pretty common. Easy solution is to add an additional bump stop to the shocks. The rear chassis flex does seem a bit much but bending it by hand vs actual driving could be very different. Has anyone actually broken anything yet? I would reinforce the body w shoe goo and mesh and possibly clamp a support rod on the chassis. I wouldnt go from one side to the other, I’d go from each side down to center of chassis on an angel. Maybe even box it in with plastic sheet sections using zip ties. Overall I’ve had to do way more to other expensive vehicles to make them work properly. This seems like nothing to worry about. Every traxxas I’ve ever bought needs a new servo within 15min. Lol

I just got a super rock Rey. I am completely in love with it.

It's no secret it's a Rock Rey. This is Horizon's own description of it: "Taking the Super Rock Rey chassis, adding about an inch to the wheelbase and morphing it with the front end from the Super Baja Rey gets you the all new and improved Super Baja Rey 2.0!" Now the wheelbase statement I don't get but if you open the SBR2 manual and look at the parts list almost all of them are from the SRR or the SBR1.

Great video, Great info. This should help alot of people!

You nailed every complaint I have on it great job !!

I like both of them. Losi is one of the best.

1. The Truck is larger overall by a couple inches from the 1.0 and has a brand new front end.... 2. From the front bumper to just past the front A-arms is the major portion of the 2.0 update to correct the steering geometry and front shock upper mounting. From the neck to the rear diff is the same as the 1.0 (which is also shared with the Super Rock Rey, the same as the last iteration 1.0 SBR) This SBR2.0 vehicle is a Trophy Truck which is Baja 500/1000 configuration.... Solid Rear Axle, Independant front suspension (just like the 1/5 scale Kraken Kv5TT Trophy Truck (once again BAJA 500/1000) and Vekta.5 (which is 4400 class rock racer which is King of the Hammers environment) So yes its easier for Kraken and Losi to bring the Baja Trophy Truck and the King of the Hammers rock racer to the community because in 1:1... you'll see the 2 classes share the same specs. Once again...in 1:1 and in this scenario and Kraken and Losi share 85% of the vehicle so retooling expenses are saved to keep the price point close to the same and not $1200, the Electronics were also updated, battery door sticks when debris is obtained from bashing...if you roll the 1:1 a few times hit 6 ft rocks and then blast over 3-4ft whoops doing over 120mph... the battery door may get stuck, the rear of the truck with the flex is designed like that on purpose, its supposed to flex, watch the trucks in the Baja envornment, if it doesnt flex to a certain degree all the impact from suspension compression is absorbed in the shocks, the shocks job is to reduce compression impact and then force the tire back to the ground as fast as possible to maintain traction and control of the vehicle.... dont stand the truck up holding by the front bumper while it rests on the rear bumper like a suitcase, everytime you showed your concern about the spare tire cage you created and weakened the cage even more, the spare tire cage isnt designed to support all of the vehicles weight... its designed to retain the 2 functional tires and a couple scale details.. its not designed to be pulled down by human hands, its designed to carry the weight of the objects in that portion of the roll cage. The Body will flex alot as well, it will develop stress fractures... the one piece body switch from the previous 4 piece body overall helps reduce the overall cage and chassis flex as a whole. Chassis flex was greatly reduced, it has better quality production materials, it has more realism in the suspension (feel free to add a second pair of rear shocks as well, pre drilled mounts are already completed) it is more scale in apperence driving of shelved, the tires are amazing and actual beadlock wheels are also a huge homerun.. small pocket screwdriver ive found works amazing on assisting gently with the battery door latch handle/spring we are fortunate (or at least i am) to be able to own the 34cc Kraken KV5TT and the SBR2.0 yes they both share the same chassis and thats because the 1:1 (in most cases) share the same specs. Hopefully this brings a different point of view, your concerns are yours but hopefully this time to explain the "how" and the "why" will help in reducing the concerns you have with your investment... I build screen accurate Lightsabers for a living that range from $500 to $15,000, i dont work for Horizon or Losi or TLR or Kraken.. but i listen and read what these companies say at time of release

Great vid!

Another waste of money. We pay for quality and get 50% junk. Just like Arrma. Horizon Hobby don’t care they just out to get that money. Good video Earl.

Gave you a thumbs up for honest review. You can even see the chassis bend in the promotion video of losi. I was also surprised Noone gave comments on that. Good video.

And thanks for making this video. You get a thumbs up👍🇺🇸

Thanks for the video and your honest thoughts. 👍

EARL. I just canceled my order for this rc,,,,,,I appreciate you pointing out these flaws,,,,,,you shouldn’t have to spend anymore money to beef up these issues,,,very disappointed in the rc ...until they revise these crucial areas I have no interest at all,,,,hopefully they will take this problem seriously,,,thanks again..🇺🇸👈

The rear flex, to me at least, is expected. My UDR flexes there as well as the version 1. The version 1 more than likely doesn't flex as much as it's only got 1 spare tire and no scale details back there. Could probably use more bracing or if you want to bash on it, take off the spares. To keep the tires from contacting the body, you could add bumpstops to the shaft of the shock. Either way, my opinion at least, that flex isn't a big enough issue to keep me from getting this if I so go that route. This RC is definitely based off the SRR with the SBR 1.0 front suspension. I was actually going to do a conversion of my 1.0 SBR to have the bottom loading like that of the SRR. What I did do to my SRR as the battery door would get stuck is grind down the edges just a bit so it isn't as tight as fit.

That's unbelievable how much flex there is in the rear section of the chassis 😮 I did notice when you had it on it's side there was a damp section underneath the chassis.

Flexes body more demonstrating than it did being driven 🤣 Contact Losi, show them, it could be a floor in the plastic that got past QC, if not they could do a fix, if nobody tells them, how will they know? Remember one other thing, Losi doesn't actually make these for bashing, they are tough within reason and designed for short course racing.

Good thing I already went through my hole truck before running it. Already shimmed the front ring gear also. The fluid you see is the thin grease losi used.

Remove the wheels in the back will reduce weight significantly

Still waiting on my SBR 2.0. Not giving up on it because if some solvable issues. Thanks Earl about sanding the battery door edges. With the rear end flexing Im thinking extra flexible plastic tube ziptided to the frame. This will allow flex during a crash only. If the impact is hard the zipties snap as a weak point.

Love your vid's. Thanks for all the hard work. Hopefully it will help us out here in viewer land to make informed decisions. I agree with you about the wetness around the Dif' ... Think it needs to be given a visual to see that it is / isn't something to be worried about. Strange that they didn't have an X brace as part of the structure where you are thinking of enhancing. It doesn't ;look like it would catch anywhere on the "chassis" .... Sell your IP to Losi for a new version of the "Rey" ... Keep up the good work :)

Love your thoughts on your cars, your moving the part and making observations Spotting problem areas comes naturally... I'll be keeping an eye out for your solution for frame reinforcement, but some fibertape and glue is needed asap to the cab / bed corner. you know a new body would cost a small fortune 🤩BB

Pretty sure Losi designed it to flex. Look how it’s designed. Driving it, you’re not going to have pressure pushing down on the way you’re pushing it down. The suspension pushes up more forward on the chassis

I personally bought the Super Rock Rey and it’s durable. I’ve had that thing cartwheeling on hard rocky terrain for several feet on multiple occasions. Just scuffs of the bumpers is all the damage it sustained. I added some clear adhesive film to the entire body to keep it looking good by protecting it from roadrash. The film works.

Aftermarket companies: “Oh yeah! We are going to have to make something for that 💰💰💰💰!!!”

Hey brotha! A dude on KZfaq has already fabbed’ a rear brace. You should check it out Earl. Let’s encourage this guy to make these for us. Here’s his Tube link: Losi super Baja Rey 2.0 rear cage brace, goes by his name James Tomlinson

Like #24 I don't think this truck is worth the money especially with that kind of flexing in the back like that ill stick with the Mojave good heads up video for people looking to buy the 2.0 tho 👍🏽

im looking at buying this earl when out in uk next week,but your vid has got me debating it now. totally agree with you,i done a similar video series on my lasernut and had to do several fixes to get it going as well as is now horizon to me are just too interested in pushing fast releases and not taking enough time to quality check and test the products these days. maybe its because basically have a monopoly on the market and dont need to as guys dont complain enough and just expect the lowered standards good to see you stepping up with this vid

It’s the same thing as an infinity g35 and a 350z. It’s how companies make money utilizing the same parts on different vehicles. Same as the f250 frame and suspension and the Ford Excursion frame and suspension.

of course you dont hear many talking about it , because their focus is manly the traxxad udr , and Arrma mojove just proves a point for the prices of these losie , there not as much a hot product as traxxas axial and arrma rc stuff is .

Man earl i want buy one of them thank u boss for heads up im a just keep my v1 lol 😂

That helped me ! For now i will stay away from this rc. Iike the look so much :(

Look forward to the continuing saga of the sbr 2!👍🙏🏻🇨🇦

Same as the Super Rock Rey. They need to stiffen up the rear end. They added more weight yet didn't improve the bracing! I'll just keep my 1.0. not worth the money

I was originally going to get a UDR and comparing it to the SBR 2.0 and the glaring problem I kept seeing in the slow motion was the tail flex in the SBR. THANKS for the in-depth explanation I think I’ll stick with the UDR. Yeah it’s a bit smaller and not as powerful but seems to be built a little stronger in the tail.

I think the truck was intended to be driven more scale like, as its its clearly not a Mojave , Losi have produced some nice rc vehicles lately but they have some durability issues in there RTR vehicles, the Lazzernut U4 and the SBR, that mount of flex in the rear would be a concern for me to, I looked back at Horizons production video you can see hug amounts of flex, its a combination of the SBR \SRR, nice insight as always Earl .

Thanks for the video and showing your concerns with the truck. I was thinking of getting this rc for some track racing with friends. Do you know if losi has made any kind of improvements with some of the issues people had experienced?? Thanks for your time!

The UDR is the same, I have the 30degrees North Super Desert Truck, this had an extra brace on each side plus it has been infilled all along where the cage would flex, the LOSI has made it easier to remove the spare's the SDT is long winded.

Great video, I would like to see if SRR same as SBR 2

Both my SBR & SRR have been great but I did have to get hot racing parts for the steering in both. The stock parts break just by staring at them. I also had to add a bumper to the SRR & reinforce the one on the SBR. The SBR's cage didn't have nowhere near this amount of flex. The rodding is thicker & has support webbing. I would try tying in the rodding with 1/4" HDPE plates & adding nylon rods for cross support.

Swap the bodies, let's see how many screws match up. They look the same truck. Different front shock tower?

Looking forward to seeing the modifications to "Make this RC Great Again"

Just another great video giving it straight from a mechanic's point of view. Lots of rear end weight without proper factory support results in excessive rear cage/body flex maybe eventual breakage. That in turn works the rear suspension incorrectly. They did make a nice LOOKING truck but it's used survival at this price point is low.

You're right... that is horrible! Prediction...SBR 2.0 drops in price considerably. At this point, I think I'll keep saving my money but I'm not interested in buying this any more. Thx for the video!

I was getting ready to buy one but now I'm going to wait and see if you can fix it. Thank you very much. It's really disappointing considering the price of this truck.

Thanks Earl! Looks like model manufacturers are taking their example from the full scale Automakers...........platform sharing.....beauty is skin deep....was never truer😂 Toyota Supra/BMW Z4, VW Routan/Dodge Caravan.....just to name a couple...most buyers are ignorant😎

Brother.......Thank You, Thank You!! I was going to Buy this. Im so Glad i saw this Video First, before paying the Hefty Price of this!!! I would have No Problem Paying this Price, for a Durable Product! Only the 5t Really Seems Tough from Losi. They put the Dollar 💵 sign first, which is Bad for Us. Its causing their Name to Suffer, because of these Flimsy products. Come On Losi , Us Loyal Fans Want The Quality from you We are Used to!!

YUP,,,everything has a breaking point,,,,just part of it......

That flex you found likely contributes to the rear end kick-up. Good of you to notice and tell others that might not have the eye that you do. I was critical earlier as I interpreted as you nit-picking the out of the box performance. I mentioned that you probably just don't like how a Desert Racer performs. It wasn't meant to be an insult or anything and I accept your reply as my misunderstanding. A couple of suggestions... Instead of using metal, get some plastic or thin plexi. Even better would be a sheet of carbon fiber. Just cut out a square that fits the areas that have excessive flex and screw them into the plastic. If you go with a sheet of plastic, you can use your heat gun to bend the sides of your cutout so it wraps around the edges, this will add rigidity to the reenforcement. Another option would be if you have an old T-Bone bumper that you don't have a use for. You can mold T-Bone plastic with a heatgun as well. I have a Team RedCat TR-MT8E BE6S, the underside of the chassis where the diff is, is exposed. I got a T-Bone chassis skid/cover. It was not molded from the factory to fit like it should. I was able to use my heat gun and reshape it to fit nearly perfectly. It's nice that the rear frame is made of a plastic that gives but, yeah... That is excessive flex that can only add to that rear end kick. Next suggestion, and correct me if I'm wrong but, you might want to lift the rear back up just to a touch and use thicker shock fluid in the rear. Maybe weaker springs with the thicker fluid to dampen the kick up? Just a thought, I'm not all that experienced with shock tuning. BTW, thanks to you, I plan on doing a dual motor build for drag racing (not competitive) and drifting.

Could you take the body from the srr with the cage and try to fit it on the SBR 2.0? For me that would be a good option when my body is trashed.

I know this is one of your older vids but I didn't know where else to ask you. What are your thoughts on getting a Super Rock Rey in 2022? A Main has them for $100.00 off, which seems like a good deal, but if it's outmatched by other cars out there then not so much. Do you still like it, or is it not really worthwhile? Thanks for the opinion!

Hey Earl - I bought a SBR 2.0! Thanks for your vids man. I'm thinking of buying a SRR now. Reason being that they have many of the same parts and I'd throw a T-bone front and rear bumpers on to toughen up the SRR. Just concerned that a new version of the SRR is coming out any day. Would have been cool if you could have taken off the cage for the SRR and compared the SBR 2.0.

How's it going Earl great video support beam across the roll cage is not going to work when the suspension goes down it will hit the only thing I was suggest is maybe an accordion shaped gusset made by a 3D printer out of plastic maybe with some Saddles to hold the cage let me know how it goes good luck I'm having the same issues took both spare tires off helped a little I'm going to look into getting maybe some gussets don't make them out of metal because that's going to take the stress somewhere else let me know how it goes and what solution you came up with going to talk to a friend of mine that has a 3D printer maybe I can make something to work let me know👍😉

Yes take it off

I would build a aluminum cage anyways for a more scale experience and stiffen the crap out of the shocks

If you box in that area of the chassis - especially with metal - it will just move the energy and flex further along the chassis. Was thinking of going for one, but this has completely put me off.

It needs a flat brace going along the sides to stop the flex. Maybe use aluminum or carbon fiber.

Such a shame it is not like the V1 and 5ive-T with multiple separate body panel's or at least the same as my SDT the rear fenders ae separate to the cab, hood and rear fenders and as I tend to destroy the rear fenders I am glad I do not have to replace complete body every time.

Even though I already have a Super Rock Rey I was interested in this, although I knew the platform is the same. I like the look. This weak point is a bummer, though. Also sad to see they didn’t fix the jamming battery lid. The major drawback for me is the space for the motor: I put a castle mamba monster X 8S ESC in my SRR so I can now adjust drake brake from the radio while driving, but I cannot find a sensored motor that fits in this small space in the car. The servo is in the way, and all sensored motors with comparable power seem to be too long.

Brother Earl, i Look forward to you Giving a Vehicle Thumbs Up, or Run Away Quick from! For $900.........and having to Beef this Up......Im Running 👟Away! I Really wanted this.......not Bash-Tough for my Cash! Thanks Again Brother for the Honest Well Informed Videos!! 🥳

Man I noticed that damn flex as soon as I pulled it out the box and leaned it up against a wall. When the back wheels hit the floor I saw the whole back flex! Which is very disappointing a $900 RC. I'm already thinking about 3D printing some support brackets or filling areas with epoxy & fiberglass! I thought I was the only one that noticed it!

I wish I can give this video more 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍. I don't have a KZfaq channel or I would have spoken about it. That rear is as soft as a babies bottom. Earl are you having issues with it tumbling alot??? My Mojave handles turns better, just curious..

Hey earl.. im missing the splash guard the protects the servo.. and by your video it looks like in order for me to be missing that i might have broken it off the cage. Is it part of the cage mold or do the splash guards come off the cage with screws? can you check for me please and thanks!

Obviously this r/c truck, like all others, has a limit to the abuse it will absorb until something breaks. Unfortunately they don't have an abuse limiter built into the transmitter like real engines have rev limiters. I might suggest slowing down or keep your tools and credit card handy.

I was going to get this basher but after watching this I think the UDR might be much more durable. 1st gens always come with issues.

Guys its supposed to flex, its engineered into the design. It would destroy itself if it didn't flex.

Body rubbing is common even with my slash. Adjust the suspension to sit higher up in the rear. She's only gonna squat under acceleration anyways

Wow!😲😒 Gotta save myself from this? Finally revealed from this truck, my hope is, save money for something else, nice show and tell.😬

I would remove the two tires and that will solve the problem. You can put fake fuel tanks in there place .

Don't drill the body you'll ruin the cage, do a clamp style like vitavon does for the udr swaybars.

It looks like my Yeti Rock Racer fo sho!

I just bought one today. I didn't take it out if the box yet, though. Maybe I should take it back...

Yes please do it take off to 🗣🌍

I don't know what route go lossi rock rey or outcast 8s What u do think??

Hey man, how do you see the SBR 2.0 against UDR? Do you think UDR is better made?

Thanks for this video but you forgot to show us how to remove the spare tires. 🙏🐒

Do you like the dbxle 2.0 better?

Yes it should have came with a thicker stronger roll cage or a brace to stop that flex.

What are your thoughts on the King Motor 1/6 scale trophy truck?

I'm sitting on the fence. Having to add extra bracing that reduces the twerking butt is tricky. How did you get the batteries out. Is there a mod solution for this may be soft foam to cover the latch on the inside?

Is it worth getting? I have many aluminium and steel sheets I can make braces from.

Every baja rey from the first 1/10 release years ago has had a super floppy back end. I've never seen it actually break, but it will flex like mad. They've literally always been like this.

Earl, do you think an 80 weight shock oil or even heavier could help in the rear - like you did on your Maxx wide? Good video, by the way. You made your case with this one thoroughly and it’s well thought out and fair. I originally thought you were being a ‘Debbie Downer’ on your unboxing vid, but after watching this video i admit I was wrong and, in fact I’m holding off on ordering one myself, for now. You may have just saved me $1,300 ish (when you include batteries and charger). Also, can you comment on how this compares to the UDR in your view? I think you have a UDR??

How about putting a rod or brace from one side to the other , right at the flex point

I'm really interested in trying to mount this body (since it's one piece) onto an XMaxx. Is it possible please to do a mock up, just place the body on the Xmaxx and see if it can be done. This and the MCD W5 seem to be good candidates to make a 1/5 Monster Slash clone. Doesn't appear they're ever going to make anything other than skinny bodies for XMaxx.

That is a lot of flex in the back I see plastic weld in your future

Take off and compare, how different from old supper baj Rey?

Looks like the super rock rey to me

I have a UDR and I love it. Do you think it's worth buying this? I guess the benefits are the increased size, but is it really unique enough to warrant dropping the cash to buy?

I know it's looking like the same chassis but I still want to see the bodies swapped

Looks like the same frame to me👍💯

Hi earl do you really think 🤔 💭 that car is worth it? Or should I get a kyju redcat

I really wanted to buy this truck but after watching your videos forget about it.I wanted to buy the Super Rock Rey but there are so many mixed reviews and I'm not sure if the original SBR is a good buy either.

I'd just find a way to throw a few zip ties on it to help with the flex

My losi baja rey raptor is the same the rear is completely jello at least it doesn't affect the actual chassis. losi makes good cars they drive and and look amazing but horizons production quality ruins it mine was meshed wrong out the box on a fixed mounting plate

I know they make a plate now

Hi Earl, appreciate the videos. Just thought I’d throw my 2 cents in. I know you had it kicking over the speed bump fist run and now you’ve lowered/softened the rear and that’s causing rubbing now. The issue is when you are under power (this has a lot) the rear suspension is super compressed and add a bump to this and you’ve got bottoming out and then kick. Big obstacles need to be hit off throttle to give the suspension in the back working room 👍🏽