Hello and welcome back
Fasten your seatbelt as we celebrate Christmas in coffee bay
Visit the hole in the wall and almost get stuck
Brush up on your fireside cooking with the best lamb shoulder recipe your grandmother should know.
For us, traveling to the Eastern Cape was an opportunity to see how much has changed since our last visit 30 years ago.
Driving through what we remember as sleepy little towns, once interspersed with cattle grazing by the roadside, we now find an important agricultural region dotted with settlements stretching across the lush landscape as far as the eye can see.
Just before Christmas, the hustle and bustle is palpable. The traffic is heavy in anticipation of the big annual homecoming. The Eastern Cape is the heart of Xhosa culture, and Christmas marks the annual migration home from the big cities. It’s an opportunity to spend quality time with family and friends.
Driving in the Eastern Cape is probably the most demanding driving experience we have had. Dodging cows, goats, dogs, sheep, and chickens-not to mention the potholes-we finally reach our destination in the lush, tropical town of Coffee Bay on the Wild Coast. As we step out of the vehicle, we are engulfed by the thick, soupy, warm, and humid air.
The swarms of with mosquitoes have also made an appearance We retreat into our tent for an early night.
To day we brave the weather to see the hole in the wall.
There has been a huge buildup to see this colossal rock formation jutting out of the ocean,. This natural arch, formed through centuries of wave erosion, creates a large opening right through the middle of the rock, resembling a giant doorway or “hole.”
The structure stands in the surf of the Indian Ocean, with waves crashing dramatically through the arch, creating a powerful and picturesque scene.
In Xhosa culture this rock holds mythical status
According to legend the hole in the wall was created by the ancestors to connect the sea with the land, symbolizing a gateway to the spiritual world.
Surrounding the Hole in the Wall are rugged cliffs and lush, green hills, typical of the Wild Coast’s stunning and unspoiled landscape. The area is remote and pristine, offering breathtaking views, a sense of tranquility, and a connection to the natural world that is both powerful and serene
On our return back to camp we attempt a backroad
For this region it is the rainy season and we quickly find out to stick to the main roads. It is very slippery.
Venture off and find out.
With no winch or sand tracks in our arsenal We played it safe.
Fire-Cooked Dutch Oven Lamb Shoulder Recipe
Ingredients:
* 1 lamb shoulder (4-5 pounds)
* 4 cloves garlic
* 4 anchovy fillets
* Zest of 2 lemons
* 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves (or 1 tablespoon dried oregano)
* 1/4 cup olive oil
* Salt and black pepper to taste
* 2 cups chicken or lamb broth
* 1 cup white wine
* 2 large onions, quartered
* 2 bay leaves
Instructions:
1. Prepare the Marinade:
* In a pestle and mortar, combine the garlic, anchovy fillets, lemon zest, oregano, and a pinch of salt and pepper corns. Pound into a paste.
* Gradually add the olive oil while continuing to mix until you have a smooth marinade.
* Rub the marinade all over the lamb shoulder, ensuring it is well coated.
2. Prepare the Fire:
* Start a campfire and let it burn until you have a bed of hot coals. Alternatively, you can use charcoal briquettes.
3. Heat the Dutch Oven:
* Place the Dutch oven over the hot coals to preheat for a few minutes.
4. Sear the Lamb Shoulder:
* Once the Dutch oven is hot, add a bit of olive oil to coat the bottom.
* Sear the lamb shoulder on all sides until browned, about 4-5 minutes per side. Remove the lamb and set aside.
5. Fry the Onions:
* Add the onions to the Dutch oven. Fry until they are golden brown, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Add Liquids and Herbs:
* Pour in the broth and white wine. Add the bay leaves.
* Place the lamb shoulder back into the Dutch oven on top of the onions.
7. Cook the Lamb Shoulder:
* Cover the Dutch oven with its lid.
* Place the Dutch oven over a bed of coals, and add some coals on top of the lid to ensure even heat.
* Cook for about 3 to 4 hours, turning the lamb halfway through the cooking time. Check periodically to ensure it's cooking evenly and the liquid hasn't evaporated (add more broth or wine if necessary).
8. Check for Doneness:
* The lamb is done when it reaches an internal temperature of about 145°F for medium-rare or 160°F for medium.
* Alternatively, check for tenderness by inserting a fork; the meat should pull away easily.
9. Rest the Lamb Shoulder:
* Remove the Dutch oven from the heat and let the lamb shoulder rest for 15-20 minutes before carving.
10. Serve:
* Slice the lamb shoulder and serve with the golden onions and a generous spoonful of the delicious juices from the Dutch oven.