The fact you placed the. Guitar in same location and strummed same 12 fret and even reused the same strings shows a honest review before and after. Very concise and vivid video.

Sounds like your description of the problem is spot on . Because of the very low break angle over the bridge the strings have no downward pressure on the bridge therefore transferring little vibration to the bridge and the soundboard.. Break angle and pressure on to the guitar top is critical for soundboard response. Great video as always.

You made a good job of that investigation and in presenting it. Consider that you’ve made a real contribution to players. Thanks.

Cheers Mate! Thank you for sharing another fantastic and honest review.

Most reviews I watch are heavily edited, fast talking, and over produced. I actually nearly rolled my eyes when I started watching this. But it is a fantastic and genuine review. By the end I was thinking to myself that you are someone I would love to learn from. I have subscribed and look forward to watching some more of your vids. Thanks!

Thanks for the demo and explanation. Appreciate that.

very fair, thorough, and informative, great job

Thank You for an Honest Review! Well Done!

Well Done break angle is accurate now just by looking .sound as the first .

Excellent report. Many thanks!

The break angle is wrong, that’s why the trebles have died.

Excellently done. Bravo.

Thanks for the demo.

Ebony is the bomb for pins, bridge and fretboard for me. Thanks so much for this demo.

The good news is that your guitar playing inspired me to explore the John Renbourn catalog more deeply. I always forget to explore him more. Thanks for reminding me. At least your playing sounds good.

"The emperor has no clothes on...!" Thank you for chasing the facts and not just assuming. I´m into guitar playing, as well as photography, and over the years I have seen a lot of useless things presented as indispensable.

This is great and has probably saved quite a few people money and time (including me!), I have an old Fenix acoustic with the quirky ‘feature’ that the G string rings out louder than the other strings, spoiling the balance, I could do with fitting one power pin to balance it out!

That sound hole cover is gorgeous.🤘

Thanks, it was something worth looking into. Now I know.

Thank you for this review, you just saved me some money.

Thank you......... I was going to buy a set................you save me some time and money...........stay frosty

I have a Breedlove and thats one of the things I really like about it.

Thank you for your review.

Good review. Thanks!

I got the first ones they came out with and the addition of the plate is pretty clever

What a good review, thank you. I have always hated re-stringing my acoustic guitars due to the pins and thought the power pins were a great idea until I saw this. I wonder if raising the saddle at the higher string end might work although that would make re-stringing fiddly each time. Thanks again for such a detailed video.

As I first watched this review I thought that the break angle would cause the guitar to lose power. Your demo confirmed that for me as well.

You just saved me a lot of money! Thanks

I love idea of string anchored with pegs. Makes it more one with body vibrations.

good info thank you!! very good review! also useful if you have a bad or damaged bridge plate it may help

great review total honesty very rare , well said

Have p.pins fitted for a year now. No change in sound quality or strength but tuning stability has improved. I have a low action but the angle between the pins and saddle is greater than in this video. I find them to be very good. The only (subjective) thing I've noticed is that the body of the guitar vibrates more. And that should improve I thought.

Hello, I would recommend using a mod called "Mitchel's Platemate". It's a simple design to protect the bridge plate. I installed this mod on my Martin D28 6 string and 12 string guitars. I was amazed at the increase in volume, tone and sustain on both instruments. It's not a permanent mod but I will never remove them.

Definitely better without the power pins. In fact much better. Great video and very useful information. Thank you 👍

Well done!!

Thanks , pretty useful review

Great review, learned something today about break angle and save some money! What song are you playing in the demo? I like that too.

Great vid! Very informative. There are a lot of gimmick items out there for guitars (and most other everyday items). Use them with caution!!! However, I am a sucker to try things, and I believe the "String Butler" is a helpful piece of kit for my SG. Rock On, good sir!!!

Thanks for saving me money and effort.

Crazy stuff mate...don't break a Nail Ha ! ROCK ON FREAKS

Good test. AND also a good illustration of the importance of breakangle which I haven't seen/heard anywhere else. Thank you. I wouldn't dismiss the Power pins totally though. On another guitar with a higher breakangle, they might work but only by facilitating string shift, I don't believe in any tone improvement. They could also fix a bridge cracked along the holes and a guitar with the underside of the bridge, chewed up,

Very help full Thanx

Hey great video! Was wondering what brand and model that guitar is.. looks really nice and i like it!! Keep up the great work!! Thanks!!

I've made this upgrade to a MIM Fender Player Acoustasonic Tele and a Martin DC-28E (2015) yesterday. The video was invaluable because the experience across both guitars was significantly different and required a different approach from each. The best advice I can give is to read the directions and go slow * recognize that there are is a mark under the plastic part of each pin. There two BBs, two MMs, and two TTs * as you are adding each pin, ensure they are aligned with your sting path by: # for acoustic guitars, install your two E's (TT & BB) PowerPins and tighten loosely but snug - bring each string up to 1 octave below normal tuning - align each pin to the string path and tighten to spec (now you have a reference point to align and tighten to spec the remaining pins without installing additional strings) - install the remaining Power Pins, align and tighten to spec - string up & tune up # for guitars with a back access (thinline, acoustasonic etc), you can install and hand tighten all the pins first but enough to make adjustments, then - string up and wind each string to 1 octave below normal and align each pin to the sting path - tighten up to spec and finish tuning to normal pitch

As I was watching and you were setting these up, the FIRST THING that came to mind was that bridge issue! I have actually cut a small slot behind the bridge to compensate for this problem. Like you, I play with a low action, and not having the bridge saddle high enough, it will cause the higher strings to not set down on the saddle properly. With that power pin setup, that will not work either. Interesting.

Very good review especially as I was looking at these to repair my bridge. Yes it's all about that break angle and my action is set very low so this would not be a good action. I may try Acoustic Bridge Bolts, Package of 4 from stewmac as an option to repair. Thanks again.

Thanks for the review. Just change the pins to tusk or brass. Probably less expensive also. Thanks again.

To be fair, I think those people who mention they experience better sound tone may have a different bridge design and slightly high actions compared to your guitar. To fully take advantage of the "Power pin", the luthier need to redesign the bridge to sit the pin like the groove for guitar strings found at the nut. Power pin developer need to redesign the pin so that it has an inclining instead of an acute angle between the arm and screw. I think this Power pin concept is a great idea. It reinforce the bridge and really make string changing a lot more easier.

Yup, it was immediately obvious that gizmo had reduced the sting's break angle at the saddle, when if anything you'd typically want to increase it by cutting a slightly angled notch at/in each peg hole like 1/4 of the way towards the saddle. Its a very significant aspect of any & all acoustic's tone/sustain/resonance/projection etc. & its a rather simple DIY mod that can even be crucial in many circumstances IMO.

Thanks very interesting

I am so happy l watched this because me to like a Lowe action And l picked up that to how there was no good angle over the bridge Thumbs up from Australia 👍🇦🇺👍👑

I experienced all of the same and removed them, but kept them for unique scenarios which they may work.

I went back to an earlier video you've posted using that same guitar and not only have those pins altered the power (in a negative way) but it's also changed the timbre (negatively, once again). Most of these "new and brilliant" inventions are trash, or they'd be the norm. Of course, there are always innovations that prove to be worthwhile and those end up as part of the manufacturer's standard methodology. Usually. :-)

15-20 years ago you could buy Carrico EZ Pins and I have them on both of my acoustics. They string just like a regular pin but are brass and the strings feeds through a hole on the saddle side just above the wood on the bridge. So they maintain the string angle. These were great if your bridge was starting to get eaten away by the strings causing a deep groove. Apparently not enough players understood the ingenuity/value and they stopped making them. They were fairly inexpensive also... Around $25.

I've not heard of these, but glad to see them put to the test. I can see why they didn't work. As far as repairing a bridge, i replaced a cracked bridge on a friend's guitar many years ago. He was going to throw it in the trash! I offered to fix it. I had NO experience as a luthier, i just was patient & methodical, measuring everything. In the end, the action was MUCH better, and my friend couldn't believe how much better it played and sounded! Of course i didn't charge him anything. I was glad to have done it. It even looked like it was original, like it came with the guitar.

Ovation acoustic-electric bridges use a top-loading system, but Ovation also fine-tunes its piezo mechanism and the bridge saddle to achieve a balanced output across the strings under that setup. They also STILL manage to have more of a break angle than these awful things, by actually going through the back of the bridge’s wood base.

Brilliant :)

Thanks for saving me money

They seem a little like a solution in search of a problem.

Luthiers take on it : Just looking at it I knew it wouldn't work well .. 1. It adds weight to the top at the precise place were the vibrations are first being transmitted to the bridge and then the sound board ... just like the brass bridge pin gimmick does. 2. It will severely change the break angle if you have your guitar reamed and slotted for unslotted pins... this will decrease volume and change characteristics of the tone .. And it did exactly what I knew it would do . All this while Al's creating all kinds of things to snag your palm on while simultaneously making the guitar look bad ... Gimmicks are just that .. Gimmicks to get your money... The acoustic guitar has evolved over the years and improved greatly upon design.. anything that will add to it more will take effect only within the building... not externally mounting ... except for changing of electronics..

I have a set without the bottom bar. First I had them installed on a Gregg Bennett guitar but they didn't work with the angle of the bridge, so they came off. Later I got a martin OMC28E that had loose bridge pins, so I put them on there and they are staying ;-) Stringchange is easier, yes, but more importantly they are more firmly in place, and no tonal tradeoffs to my ear.

Excellent critical review. I have an older acoustic these might work on. Thanks for posting.

The angle that the string comes off the saddle into the hole making more of the string contact more of the saddle is the end all be all of how good the tone can get from pins. These reduce that angle... slotted bridge holes with unslotted pins or backwards pins gives you the sharpest angle and the best tone.

Without the Power Pins the guitar has a clearer tone on each of the 6 strings and an overall sweeter tone, I believe this is because the strings are in direct contact with the wood through the bridge holes and as you say seated at a lower position making better contact with the saddle. With the Power Pins the sound has to travel through the metal down the bolt and into the wood not so much of a problem for the thicker strings with a heavier more powerful vibration but a major reason why the G, B and top E sting sound so tinny they just do not have the power to vibrate through the metal. Another problem I see that would affect my playing style is that I rest my hand on the bridge, chop, mute and sometimes aggressivelt strum and fear I would move/knock the Power Pins out of alignment and instantly detune or even unstring the guitar while playing as they look like they may rotate during play and if so would flip under tension into the next pin causing a catastrophic domino effect. There would also be a regular tightening check as bolts work loose under vibration. I will never purchase these for any of my guitars regardless of the price, thank you for the heads up.

interesting...I fitted these about 2 years ago. I tend to play my guitar quite hard, found that yes, they did alter the guitar sound, not worse ....just different. It deffinatly increased the "Attack" of the top frequences. so it lost a bit of muddyness. I think this is why people think they increase the power .a bit like when you fit new strings... as I didnt pay for them the price hasnt come into it so not the emporers new cloths syndrome I do appreciate the now easy ablility to change the strings when I break one quickly. so yes they are a gimmick BUT for me , i like the sound they have on MY guitar. PRS SE Aguilise acustic.the first model. its all Mahogany so very warm sound but didnt cut through the mix with the band before....does now and is the most easy guitar to sett up of sound from small venues to larger gigs with 3-400 people there to festival tents . my band mate bought some for his guitar and they sounded awful. so i think it does depend on the guitar. really "thin" sound . so like all things in this world.....Buyer Beware

The only benefit of this powerpin is save you few minutes while changing strings, but the drawback is it will lessen the break angle and make the sound worsen.

I think it would be a great solution if you were building an "acoustasonic" type guitar. The steel plate would be a great way to ground your strings and pickup to avoid hum.

I have fitted them to my hand made accoustic. They are incredible and light years better than pins....just my opinion

old rokit 5 monitors here... my opinion ,waste of money . last part of video they almost sounded compressed . Love what you are doing ,Thank you

I saw the angle problem right off and thought that would be a problem! Redesign to duplicate the angle would probably work better!

1st like, 1st comment, thanks for all the vedios

I'm curious about your tuning: some strings seem to be on the edge of being tuned slightly too high or too low. Do you use different tuning for the type of music you're playing?

Great Review GCH: paging Acoustic Guitar Magazine: How much advertising revenue did you recieve from 'Powerpins' before you awarded them "Top Gear Award Winner 2018" ... enquiring minds want to know!

I would suggest an O-Port flange in the sound hole and you’ll increase volume and tone 20-25%. It’s an amazing device, $20-$30, and I have them in all three of my acoustics. In fact, I would NOT have an acoustic without an O-PORT in it!

Thanks for this video. Saved me time and money. I'll be better off replacing my plastic pins with either brass or ebony. These gimmicks have a way of taking you on wild goose chases.

I felt like falling asleep listening to this. Don't get too excited now. Lol

It's funny I got a lemon guitar the worse I have come across so far. Tonight I just finished tweaking everything & I like a lower action too. My break angle is about like yours. I read countless nonsense on how you want a steep break angle which makes no sense as it puts unneeded pressure on the bridge. I sanded my saddle down as far as I could but the saddle slot is 0.012 oversized so it flops back & forth I shimmed it with some paper plugged in & my high e & b was barely audible. Took the paper out from the side it came back. The way these acoustics are designed you need the regular pins with a bit of break angle. Just goes to show not all new products are good ones.

There is a European device called Phiton, which offers a pin replacement. Wondering if anyone here has tried them. They would not change the break angle from original. A mod I am looking into for an acoustic bass guitar. They have other "resonators" which look interesting.

If they're only secured from the inside what's to stop them from getting pulled to the side from the tension of the strings? If they make a 3.0 I would like to see something on top that keeps the pins straight.

What if you sanded the bridge behind the saddle which would lower the pins. If done carefully it could possibly be a gradual slope and then you keep the low action… Another option would be modifying the pins either by sanding the bottoms or somehow changing where the string comes out to a lower position but looks like there’s very little room to do this. Thank you for the detailed videos you do.

I have some bone bridge pins and they don't fit all the way into the guitar, should I use sandpaper to reduce their width?

I thought the power pins guitar sounded brighter than the one without. PS - That is a lovely song you were playing during the comparison. What is it?

these are useless. I want MORE break angle, not less. These things are snake oil. Thanks for doing this. Your demonstration makes it clearly visible that they're all wrong for acoustic guitars. Excellent public service announcement! 🐰💜🎸🎶🤝✌

REVOLUTIONARY!

biggest problem with the power difference is the lack of break angle with the powerpins. Not to mention all the extra garbage that gets added to the saddle.

I have the original power pins and they started on my Martin, moved to my Cort, finally found a home on my wife's old pre lawsuit guitar. I wanted to like them and changing strings is easier but I didn't like the sound as you showed.

Try the Tonebar it's very inexpensive and actually works.

The natural EQ is MUCH better without those pins. Love the "Lutehole dot com" sound hole cover. I've got the #02 model.

I would be more concern the string presure with these "pins" is not pulling the bridge straight across the top of the guitar. The standard pin setup causes this tension to also push the bridge down on the guitar. I would never use this product.

I would guess that to the alignments, or lack of seating bend, the strings should have a longer life but less torque for tone.

Interesting, could someone please tell me the name of the tune played. ?? 😉

Have you tried using metal bridge pins I have and could not see a big difference either way. ,

My bridge saddle is really low too, so thanks for showing me that this wouldn't work

12:43 sir have you uploaded this lesson and can you please tell me the name of the piece,

I could see from the start that the break-angle was not right. Also, the Power Pins suspend the string above the bridgeplate, so there is obviously going to be a drop in gain/resonance, as the strings are not clamped through the bridgplate/soundboard (top) as they are with traditional pins. . If one wishes to increase the resonance of an acoustic guitar, using bronze or brass bridge pins is a good way to accomplish this. I use bronze bridge pins on all my acoustics and they certainly improve resonance and look pretty cool too. In the UK they cost around a tenner a set and although far more expensive than plastic pins, the extra cost is justified. . Though slightly off-topic, the resonance of a guitar is essentially down to how well the strings are emplaced and the neck-to-body interface. Although on an acoustic guitar, it is essentially the soundboard that creates that resonance, the neck interface is still crucial. One reason why you hardly ever see screw-on necks on acoustics (apart from Eko's and the likes). Now on electric guitars, the resonance is generated more by the string emplacement and neck interface and the electronics augment that. This is why fitted necks tend to impart better resonance than screw-fitted necks. Though it has to be said that this difference is subtle, because it is the pickups/electronics that primarilly create the voice of the guitar. . I always test electrics first, by playing them unplugged, often with my chin resting on the upper horn, if present. I listen for the resonance of the guitar without the colouration of the pickups. If it 'rings' well, I'm usually confident that it will sound good when amplified. . For me, screw-fitted necks are often lacking in resonance. This became evident when I purchased my used Fender Stratocaster Deluxe. Great sounding pickups, but poor body/neck resonance (with new strings). On closer inspection, I had noted that some cracking and delamination of the finish was occurring around the neck pocket. Then I noticed how loose the neck screws were, being such that the neck was moving within the heel-pocket, so much so that it affected string placement and obviously tuning and was the primary cause of the cracking/delamination. . Measuring at the nut, I noted that the neck was able to move laterally by around 3-4 mm ! Not good. I attempted to tighten the neck screws and then realised that they all had stripped threads within the wood. I removed the neck, dowled the screw holes of the neck heel and re-drilled the holes (using smaller gauge bit). I then reftted the neck *without* using the neck plate and drilled two more screw holes through the body heel and into the neck itself, either side of the truss-cap and equidistant between the original four screws. These extra holes were then countersunk to accept larger - high-tensile stainless 'Stannah screws' (used to screw stairlifts to granite steps...), which would be hidden behind the neck plate once fitted. The difference in resonance was immediately apparent, even before I plugged it in. This simple fix can be undertaken by anyone confident in woodwork/luthiery, using two flat-head, countersunk wood-srews. I'd recommend using brass screws for this. The extra strength of the neck/body interface makes all the difference. Not only in resonance, but durability of the instrument, especially in live scenarios. . To my knowledge only one guitar company appears to use more than four neck-screws on some of their instruments - Musicman.

i thought we need the string to rest on the saddle piece ! That saddle has reason why it shaped like that.. for intonation accuracy of course!

A really valid comparison. I'm not convinced that the powerpins would save a lifting bridge. At best, it might stop the bridge actually coming away (at least for a while) but a lifting bridge is caused by torque and top distortion, not by string tension primarily. The bridge pins approach is not really much better than the old idea of putting a couple of nuts and bolts through the bridge (step forward Gibson and Eko). It will help with reducing wear on a bridge plate, though, but you don't need the pins, just the bit of metal (Platemate) as another commentator has mentioned. Or may be make same from a bit of meccano - nice to hear a shout for them after all these years. Also, what a faff to fit. Nice guitars, but the way - what are they?

You lost all your break angle on the treble strings with those things. If the bridge were raised, I suspect you'd get back a lot of your sound. Not sure I'd have a use for these unless I was restringing a lot.

I just wanted to thank you for this review. I came close to buying a set of these "power pins" recently, and I just happened to see your review pop up on my feed. The weird thing is that I have the exact same guitar that you used in this demonstration (the Washburn Comfort Series if I've got it right). Anyway, thanks for saving me $50 American (@ least that's the going rate on Amazon), by warning me off of them. Later taters. xxxooo dc

@Gu1tar1st is correct and probably explains about 98% of the energy lost. but the string, pinned, makes direct contact with the bridge and underside of the front. once you introduce the quick change gizmo, the energy must transfer from one material to another twice before contacting the bridge. i don’t know the names of all the parts of a bridge so if it sounds like i don’t know guitars i don’t. but i know physics, and guitars are part of the physical world. who knew school would apply to the real world. ☮️