I think none of you are left handed, so the modification made on the pot to pour the metal would probably work better on the opposite side.

Another great video! Just FYI, a friend who owns a company dealing in industrial heating and heat monitoring equipment, told me that type of thermometer will give you inaccurate readings from reflective surfaces, like shiny pots or molten mettle.

I remember a long time ago I was always without the right returnable coin to release a shopping trolly so I cast one out of pewter using plasticine for a mold, the fine detail was terrible but it actually worked, I used it for years.

Rather than talc, you can get better, (& shinier), results using powdered graphite to powder and release the mould.

I always pre-heat my molds prior to pouring, it helps.

thank you for showing the mistakes! a lot of people forget about that when making a tutorial that you can't do trial and error off screen and have it be perfect when you put it on because when others try it and inevitably fail the first time, now they can see why

Another great video! If you pre-heat the mold with either a couple of casts or in a toaster oven at 300° and will also help with detail.

Not a great casting but you're on the right track. 1st you need to make your mold so that the clamping surfaces are FLAT and PARALELL, the edges don't matter. Moldmax 60 is OK but Dow Corning 3120 is more economical and easier to mix accurately. Temperature of the pewter needs to be about 600degF. With the pewter at casting temperature you need to dust with talc and w/o closing the mold pour pewter on the mold cavities a few times to warm up the mold. Hot mold is the rule. To assemble the mold the aluminum plates are great but need to be clamped LIGHTLY with some sort of screw clamp or vise.Next you need to flux the mold using 20 Mule Team Borax. Just a pinch in the melt pot. Use a ladle to skim the dross to the side of the pot and dip the ladle and pour into the mold. Talc can be applied by putting it in a athletic sock and pounced on the mold. Teflon can be used as core material to form holes in the casting. Look at info on sand casting about use of cores since same theory applies. Make sure your sprue is long and tapered since it provided pressure on the metal in the mold cavity. Factors that effect the casting quality include part orientation, metal temperature, venting, etc. Hope that helps.

Thanks for showing the results of the low temp silicone, I've always used plaster moulds for pouring metal, not ideal!

ohhhh I had no idea this was possible. I will definitely be using this technique in the future

awesome video.... I have no idea why I'm so addicted to casting videos.

I've worked with pewter several times and I knew that the melting point was low but WOW! I have no idea that I could use it in a silicone mold... I've been using wood molds all this time. Thanks so much for the insight.

could you put a link for the silicon mold material? I have been casting pewter for 30 years and have a couple of suggestions . . . I use hardboard for my mold plates and an adjustable clamp rather than the rubber bands. I think if you are doing multiple casts the aluminium plates will get too hot to handle. The graphite coating works great, I got a locksmiths rubber squeeze bulb and buy my graphite by the pound, way cheaper. The casting pot you have in the background and the pour ladle are for bullet molding, but you can get a casting pot with a pour spigot and eliminate the ladle. The benefit of the casting pot is being able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the process and not burn the casting metal . . . you don't want to be breathing vaporised metals!!! love your videos and watch them all the time, keep up the great work!

Great video! Thanks for posting guys!

One tip that might help for you. If you are right handed- try putting your pour spout on the other side. I love all your videos and have learned a lot

You make it look so easy! Something I probably won't try for a while, but it's definitely good to know for the future. Both of you do an excellent job on the channel.

That was awesome and yes, pouring molten metal on a wood table, probably not optimal. I particularly loved the end screen, melting the pewter out of your 123 block. :)

Really enjoy the slightly improv/learning-process style.

Besides my sci-fi projects, I also do a bit of Ren Faire type projects this is going to up my medieval prop game! hahaha sweet video! thx Bill

When I've done white metal/pewter casting for my own props, I place the mold on an old cookie sheet. Any over pours will end up on the metal surface and not risk burning your work bench! Plus, you can skim the slag and dump it easily on an unused part of the cookie sheet for easy clean up later.

it really helps to warm the moulds up before the pour, stops the metal jumping out

I don't know how warm you can get silicone but preheating the molds results in a complete, more precise casting.

Funnel? Love the ingenuity with the pour spout and adjustments.

Nice detail on the knurling right off the Form 2! Gotta love that SLS!

"...and here we'll just add a happy little burn mark."

I have cast lead before and there are a couple of things that make for a good cast. Flux your metal. This will reduce the oxides in the metal and clean up impurities. A tiny drop of wax will work great. Proper temperature for the pour. Don't just pour it when it is molten, too cold and you will get voids in the metal and fine detail will not show up, too hot and there will be excess shrinking. I haven't cast with silicone but for a metal mold, soot from flame make great mold release. After you practice on the first cast you should cut it open with a scroll saw or jewler's saw to see how the casting went. Silicone probably does not have to be preheated to get the best results since it holds the heat in longer than metal but metal molds will need to be preheated.

I'd recommend adding a funnel type structure to your molds to help avoid filling your escape channels for the air with metal by mistake. Also gives you a nice cut off point for your cast.

looks so easy! now I just have to see about mold making TYSM for the vid!

When I used to do this for wargame miniatures I was told not to use metal for the mould clamps because it let the heat transfer away from the liquid metal too fast and didnt flow nicely into the details.

Looks like you put a temper on the corner of your 123 block, man, probably didn't need that hot of a torch :) Of course I only think that because I just watched Clickspring tempering handmade drill bits...

Nice work! I scanned below, didn't see this, so am adding. I believe the yellowish color of the pewter indicates it is slightly too hot. Maybe that helps someone. It looks great!

If you keep working with soft metal casting you should consider getting a production pot, like we use for casting lead bullets/shot.

I had no idea bout this moulding stuff :D I just use a CNC Milling machine and MDF when making a mould :D Save on making a mould by hand and they re-use like a boss! Plus much better for the environment!

That burn in the counter was almost a perfect silhouette of a Troll Face meme. Missed opportunity.

Put a metal lube in the top of the vent hole so the pewter can not go into the hole. Also cast in a larger funnel shape into your silicon mold for the fill. Lastly put a pour spout on the other side of the big ladle

Thins turned out better than the enclosure, lol! X)

Bill, if you're ever heading to the San José area in the Southern Bay Area (California), give me a heads up and I'll show you and Brit the ideal small metal casting set up at SJSU

Super helpful! I knocked over my roommates mini chess set and disappeared on of the pawns, a Greek soldier, which is not available to purchase anywhere! Thanks especially for the silicone 30 trial- I only need to cast one piece so it’s good to know I don’t have to go up to the 60 (price wise and amount wise)!

Been away from this channel. I'm back finally 😍

Amazingly well done video! Thanks so much for putting this together AND for revealing the types of rubbers used. Bravo! New subscriber and fan inbound!

Arty the art piece! Thumbs up for Arty!

A satisfying end card to go with the fun and informative content thanks.

It looks like you need a larger opening and and should tap the mould to make sure it goes all the way down to the bottom.

Very creative to turn a burnt mark into a smiley 🤓

Try using French chalk instead of baby powder, the baby powder has elements in it to stop it compacting which create gasses when heated this in turns can create a pocked texture on the flat surfaces

Y'all are perfect for each other....like Sheldon

Just a word of warning - don’t rely on the temps from that thermometer for anything vital when doing this. Contactless thermometers like that one are calibrated for a certain reflectivity. The correction factor needs to be tweaked for various materials, and you’ll almost never get an accurate/reliable readout off of shiny, metallic surfaces.

"Hey everybody, I'm a piece of artwork on the countertop, totally on purpose!"

You have memorialized the successful first pewter casting by drawing a witness. ;p

Contenti sells bottom pour ladles to minimize/eliminate slag in your pour :)

How to make a Lightsaber out of plumbing supplies like Indy Mogul’s Backyard Fx

When casting metal you will get much better results if you preheat your mold before you pour your cast.

Another thing that you can do to improve detail is to put the mold in a pressure pot (like pressure casting resin.)

should have watched to the end...make a larger head which will provide more pressure to drive the metal.

Beautiful!

Love the end song.

Optimism wins.

Make your vent hole higher than your pour in hole.

u need to use small funnel banana according to the hole size

Your pewter sploosh smiley face reminds me of the kool aid man. Also this turned out SO COOL!!!!

Wouldn’t using metal clamps be better to hold the mould than wire as it’s easier to clamp and unclamp?

Haha, legit just finished a Mold Max 60 mold yesterday. See you guys at Emerald City Comic Con!! :)

Possibly an aluminum extension tube to bring air release vent above the pore area would allow for better venting. Maybe not.

You need a proper pot with a pouring point, so it pours in smoother

Try doing lost wax.ferst use the latex mould to cast it in wax, you can clean up all the blemishes on the wax before casting the metal,drill holes ext ext.Then Then cast the wax into a one piece plaster mold.Then ether boil of the wax, or put it into an oven to do it this will also dry the plaster,wet plaster molds aren't a good idea,as they can explode.for casting the metel the plaster mold should go into a bucket of sand.Once cast the plaster can be easily cleaned of the casting. The latex mold will last a lot longer and you'll not end up with bernt molds. A bit more involved.With this type of method you can also cast aluminum and bronze .

I do love your video. Nice demonstration.

You should have made the pinch for pouring on the other side, since both of you appear to be right-handed. You're pouring in the opposite direction than what is natural, and as a result the pour is not as smooth or accurate, and can overflow more easily than if you made it right-handed and poured to the inside of your hand direction rather than the outside. Still, really cool work, nice melting and molding!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

What should the ideal metal temperature be for a good cast?

why that alluminium residue is it because u have not covered the pot im just asking for the sake of quality

Talc is great for silicone molds but I see you used baby powder. Most baby powder is made from corn starch now and not talc so my question is: what kind of baby powder did you use? Talc or non-talc? Talc powder is much more expensive than baby powder and I'm wondering if corn starch might burn.

Hey, Punished-- expend a drop more rubber and build in a better pour stub in the master/rubber. Then, make a better pour lip thingie on your pot. And let's not forget to throw out those old 1-2-3 blocks-- they're disposable, right? (Eheh... wrap in foil or just go out and find some bricks, even broken ones.) Yes, yes-- don't want to end on all critical, back-biting comments-- very brave and good of you to show us that next step in serious modeling.

Really helpful tutorial!

How about pouring the puter into a metal funnel for better aim?

How high temperature, for silicon can withstand

Nice

That burn mark looks like Slimer!

Hit a 123 block with a blow torch? Do you mean your 1.2 2.3 3.4 block?

Can you guys make a video on your paint booth setup

Pre heat your mold so the metal does not harden as fast, just throw it in an oven at 400 for a few minutes.

Kinda wanna make a full puter zaku II

What about using a plaster mold? I know it would be a messy result, but, it could work, right?

The AvE is strong with this one.

try lost wax method of casting

I love molten metal. Oh. And window pane are pour on molten pewter.

Where do you go to, to have one of these molds made?

Can you try this with moulds of 3d printed items

For keeping out the slag, could you not use a SS wire mesh as a 'filter' of sorts?

why is the 2nd one gold? Is it pewter?

Great video your air vent is a little too small and to close to the pouring hole and are you left handed.

would stainless steel work just as good because I've been thinking of casting a metal ignika.

Good day sir. what kind of materials you use in making a molder. this molder can use in metal and what is the durability of this material. thank you

funny and good video, thanks for sharing, I already bought a OOMOO smoothon 25, I never had used it , may I cast tin with it?

You can melt pewter with a match

Hey guys does anyone have any advice on doing double sided coins this way? Like if I did a split mold like this would I need a air vent and such?

This is epic! I didn't realise you could create metal-safe moulds from silicone. Do you reckon there's a way to reduce or even eliminate the seam? Or would you just have to sand it off after? Many thanks for this vid.

Hey I would really like it is you can do a video on the suit of savitar from the show flash if you need to look at the suit you can go to the show flash and look at session 3 ep 23 from 25 min and 44 seconds

Interesting.

You might wanna protect that handle of the pot with some cords or other insolating stuff !

I wish smooth on had a resin that can handle molten brass