Thank you very much!

Great to hear! You are welcome! good luck!

Thank you so much for the kind words! Best of luck!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much hope it worked out!

Thank you for the kind words, there are more than one way to handle situations. Some better than others but it all depends on the experiences people have had.

Thank-You!

Thank you so much! Always happy to help more to come!

Thank you so much, This makes me happy.

Awesome man hope it all works out well. Getting gutters on my home soon hopefully.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Great DIY idea. Thanks for the comment! More stone under the pop-up the better IMO

No problem 👍Thanks and good luck!

You are welcome!

Thank you!

Thank you!

You're welcome

I appreciate that!

Awesome thank you!

Water will sit in the last 2-3ft of the system typically. The holes in the bottom of the pop-up elbow will facilitate the movement of the water into the local soil after a rain storm.

I try for a minimum of 10f, But every situation is different.

Thank you. Honestly at the beginning of a run I will buy as much fall as possible by starting shallow. It really all depends on each situation. They are all different. But I aim to start at 4" minimum then move my way down depending on grade.

Hey! anywhere from 450-1200 typically. We run a small outfit with 2 guys. It varies big time with drainage.

sweet, I like it.

ACE and Rip-off go together too.

Thank you, we get quite a bit of rain. This system has preformed well so far after a few heavy rains. And that’s a great point I will remember for next time. Thanks!

You must must have small amounts of rain as surely the closed pipe is going to fill in minutes

@@terence2379 no, as I said above we have a lot. System works great. Just got a big test, Thanks for commenting!

We are close to Hilton Head. We typically charge by the foot on jobs like these.

Yes absolutely always use a schedule 40 if going under surfaces with more then foot traffic!

@@BradfordOutdoor great thx for confirming! I completed my downspout reroute yesterday with sch 40. One thing I ran into was in order to maintain my slope, the beginning of the run ended up started at ground level. So once i backfilled and put grass back it was higher. However since concrete patio will be poured it really doesn’t matter? Also any concern with slope getting messed up with concrete installed on top due to settling?

Sweep preffered. Never had a problem with these though.

Thank you! I think you will get discoloration with direct sunlight. This seems to be shaded well so it should have a very long lifespan for the customer. I would check out the french drain man on KZfaq for drainage in an area that has a freeze and thaw period.

Yeah, I observed this system during a heavy rain. The customer didn't want this but I wanted to extend the downspout out a bit and have a surface level drainage basin. They insisted on having it the way it was installed. There was very minimal splashing. Nothing that I could see contacting the wood. Thanks brother

Best thing to do is daylight the pipe. forget the pop-up if possible.

Gravel seems to be enough. But a nice drainage fabric wouldn't hurt.

Having geo textile fabric can’t hurt but generally isn’t necessary at the end of the line like this video. At that termination point, the water pressure and velocity will be pushing out any minimal shmutz that gets in that drain hole. It really depends on your soil. If you have clay (like I do), then yes - dig it up and create a dry well and line it then fill with gravel. If your soil drains, don’t bother - just remove the popup or grate at the discharge point and drill a hole easy peazy. If your lawn is normally dry within 48 hours after rain or irrigation, your soil drains.

Yes, it is Thanks!

There is! NDS makes a PVC adapter for your typical downspouts. They sell them at lowes but your local site one may have them.

Hey! Thanks for the comment. I’m unsure what you are asking.. thanks!

I have seen 3” used at a minimum! This helps a lot with generating pressure over shorter runs. Wouldn’t do anymore that a single downspout on it!

Dig a trench a little longer than the sidewalk width to a depth that the top of the pipe will be below the bottom of the sidewalk and perpendicular to it. Put a hose in a pipe in the trench and turn the water on. Take a board and hold it on the end on the far side away from the sidewalk and start hammering the board to move the pipe under the sidewalk. Preferably, use a sledge hammer. Schedule 40 PVC will hold up to the hammering better, and support the sidewalk better. I've never done this, but I've seen it on the Stud Pack KZfaq channel when they needed to do something similar to run a sewer under a foundation and sidewalk. Ideally there is a way to get rid of the excess water, starting from the downhill side of the sidewalk gives a place for the water to go. The water will wash some of the dirt away, and soften the rest, which will wash away once it collapses inside the pipe. Search for their video "Tunneling Under a Concrete Footing for a Sewer Drain"

Well is seems you do not understand what the difference is between a clean-out and a catch basin. See a catch basin is both a "catch basin" and a clean-out where a clean-out is just an access point to clean-out the system. This still beats not having any access point what so ever which is what I see every day. This system will be easy to maintain. Open the cap, flush with a hose, take the pop-up off and clean it out. I'm not arguing a catch basin would have been better, but sometimes you need to work with a customers budget and this particular customer did not like the look of a catch basin. So this is what they got and no problems so far! Thanks bruh.

Yes! South Carolina. No freeze here!

I hate pop-ups, but thats a good question. I usually just water test everything and see the action.

Oh yeah go schedule 40 for sure.

Thanks!

Yeah I got one of those too

If you can I always recommend schedule 40 for the PVC side of things. Its just so tough. But for your situation SDR 35 would be a great choice as well. I would get which ever one was cheaper.

@@BradfordOutdoor Thanks!

Thats the better way to go. That way your clean-out method can go in seamlessly. thanks

S & D = sewer and drain; it's thinner, so the connections are different even though the outer diameter may be the same as Schedule 40.

Schedule 40 is much more stronger and cost a lot more.Mostly used for commercial use

We did on this home, all working great installed about 7 months ago!

We can only get away with it on new construction! Thank the lord for no rocks down here.... just mud.

@@BradfordOutdoor looks like nice sand. Either way rocks suck. If you're planning to do residential retrofits invest in a small machine like a bobcat e10 or a yannar sv-08. We have the yanmar and we get calls specifically for the small footprint. And it saves the heck out of your back. Much success, keep up the great work.

Im in upstate NY where it snows almost everyday in the winter and gets down to around 30 below. Any experience with something like this in really cold environments?

Incorrect, the last maybe 3-4ft of the pipe fill max before water emits. This pipe has great fall, and the leach hole ensures it dries up in a few days or shorter after a rain. Works great so far.

I don't like pop up emitters. They should be the absolute last resource if there's no other way. Even with the stones under it, it will take a long time to drain. I don't see how any outfit could guarantee an installation with that end.

@@joeshmoe7789 nobody likes them, this system works great and will continue to do so along with the hundreds of other ones installed. I agree with it being a last resort, but if you can’t guarantee your work on a pop-up emitter I think it’s probably your application not the product. I see people misuse these things on 5-10ft runs all the time. As long as you have good fall and are building good water pressure you are set.

@@joeshmoe7789 Also, it dries up in a few days. No reason this couldn’t last years and years it maintained properly. Actually speaking from experience maintenance is the biggest failure in these systems.

​@@joeshmoe7789 French Drain Man uses "T" fittings at end with pop up instead of elbow. The bottom of the T being open allows excess water to exit quicker

Working on new content now!

Not with regular maintenance

Well nothing, That's why there is a clean out at the beginning of the run.

SDR 35

You have got to watch the whole video!

Not sure if this is poking fun or whatever, don’t really care. I love this watch it serves me well. I am an outdoorsy person and the GPS on this watch will ensure I am never stranded without a paddle! Thanks.

Soil separation fabric is only needed with perforated pipes, typically found on french drains where excess subsurface water is an issue. This system is correct - it’s taking surface sheet water and getting it away from the foundation.

^

I would Google drainage pros in your area and hire a company specifically dedicated to drainage. These companies tend to get it right the first time considering the entire reputation of the company is at stake. Thanks!

@@BradfordOutdoor Thank you for the reply, appreciate it!

Yeah I like to pin the bubble. cant go wrong with that.

The pop-up emitter that has the slit in the elbow is a 3” elbow. I would like to allow more flow considering the 5” downspout. Also the spring loaded ones are nice. But tend to hold every piece of debris back IMO. I glue everything because the smallest leak can attract root development and ruin a system. Plumbers see it sometimes in sewage lines. Thanks for feedback brother

@@BradfordOutdoor oh wow they don’t have the 4 inch spring popup where you are? I get them from a place called “Site One”. Home Depot and Lowes don’t carry them. I think they have locations all over the US. Ya I always push the pipe tight together but don’t glue Incase people break them (fence installers and paver guys are notorious for this) but I like your channel man. Post tons of shorts to grow fast. They don’t count for watch time but they help the channel grow faster.

Hey mike, thanks for the comment. I’m curious what you mean by gravel bed? Are you meaning underneath the entirety of the pipe? If so, there is no requirement but of course that would be the best option. I have had 0 issues with pvc systems without a gravel bed. Also nothing is off center as of now, and this is a great look for a 5” downspout. I have seen some abominations.. thanks!

Awesome! Good luck!

Got em, thought I mentioned this! Thanks

3 minutes in, that's exactly what he mentions

anywhere from 750-1500

So it doesn’t get root intrusion or separate over years and years. I have seen that happen. Glue your pvc. It’s the right thing to do.

You have no idea what you are talking about. Thanks for the click and watch time!

I wish we could Do that! Thats the opposite of the rules we have in place here... They dont want anything tied in!

I enjoy the feedback, but unfortunately you are just wrong here. The top of the 90 is about 3” below the entry of the downspout adapter. It drains phenomenally. I observed it on a hard rain and was pleased with the results. It actually did so well it caused a large erosion problem. I have since extended them at the request of the customer. There will inevitably be standing water in any downspout system configured this way. The pipe dries up in a couple days after the rain has ceased and this can differ based on soil composition. If you have nothing but clay it could take longer. But to answer in short the entire pipe is not filled with water after a rain, only maybe the last 3-4 feet are. Regardless any drainage system will need some maintenance, but this one will last a long time.

This response was also one very long sentence. It was hard to read.

Well, the pipe will of course have some standing water but we do have about 3” of fall over 20ft. There is a hole drilled in the bottom of the elbow at the end to allow the water to dry up after the rain has ceased. This install was on the coast of SC. Our ground does not freeze. Up north this system would be ok… but I would provide further measures to ensure it dried quickly after a rain or extend it further to daylight.

Our coldest day this last year was 21 degrees Fahrenheit.

They do! Hopefully this landscaper takes caution and installs the new sod at the appropriate grade. In my experience they seldom get chopped up if they are installed correctly. Thanks for the response, means a lot!

The new pop ups are great… they are spring loaded and don’t get sucked up like the old ones. Those are the only pop ups I use

Well, with the stainless steel gutter guards I am sure leaves will be few and far between. But when they do clog up inevitably The homeowner will need to use the clean-out installed and remove the pop up to flush out! Actually in this specific install the landscaper has agreed to maintain the system as part of the landscaping account! Thanks for the comment!

How dare you. He's been doing this long enough 😆

French Drain Man sells downspout leaf filters ...But homeowners should always consider gutter guards. But if they'res no trees it's no big deal. Also you could use a "T" fitting instead of elbow. The T would would allow any debris to settle on the open end of the T

Thank you this video is perfect and very helpful. Love this

​@@Arcanus31absolutely! PVC and the clean out take care of that problem.

Absolutely not! This is fresh fill on new construction.

Haha, yeah you have got to love the new construction! Thanks for the comment homie

@@BradfordOutdoor heck yeah,! Keep up the great work

hehe

Goober, nothing wrong with mentioning ace since it’s a video targeted for DIY people. Stop acting like the trash you buy at Home Depot/Lowe’s is any better. LOL