No worries! At some point I’ll do a full video on making and using sprue goo, lots more you can do with it!

Thanks! the angled cut sounds like a good idea.

I’d completely forgotten about the blue tac and superglue thing! Still use a lot of blue tac to test big parts but thankfully products have move on from that for sculpting/filling.

Great tip 👍

happy to share 😀 It can take a bit of getting used to this technique but I find it’s the best and easiest method.

Glad that you like the vids!

Seems to be much more of an issue with the push fit ‘simple’ kits, I’ve had no issues with the normal ranges recently.

One of my favourite ways of gap filling for sure.

Absolutely 👍

But then you lose the flavour...

I’ve been chopping at an angle recently after another comment, another good tip!

@@adamshobbystuff I'm actually surprised you commented back.

Always try to! Sometimes not very fast though 😂

I’m sure it’s intentional to give us more fun filling gaps … 🤔

Thanks mate! Going to do a full video on it at some point.

Have fun wit it!

Always more models to build!

(Looks at my unending pile of shame) Fair.

Thanks 😊 glad it was useful!

Just something my dad taught me in the 1980s on Tamiya tiger tanks! I find if you use normal tools the goo can wreck them so I stick to the tried and tested technique.

I just been using the brush in the lid, making a huge mess then spending ages with a blade and wasting so many sanding sticks the next day once it has finally hardened up. Pointy stick is such a great idea.

Always more tanks to add to the collection!

It’s useful to know, the pegs seem to cause gaps on all the push fit models, frustrating!

🙌🙌

Great tip, never done any reaper bones black models, the latest reaper minis I have done were the older white metals.

@@adamshobbystuff I have only tried those I received from the Bones V kickstarter, which are a darker resin than the original Bones line. Haven’t tried the original, white Bones or their newest BonesUSA line.

It’s poly cement, in this case it’s a tamiya one but any poly will do in a jar, it’s the same glue to make the goo just with bits of sprue in it. I make sure the room is well ventilated and as long as you put the lid back on quickly there are not a great deal more fumes than just using poly cement, if you can’t ventilate the room well then using a mask would be sensible.

Might look that way on the vid but isn’t when finished in real life.

Cheers!

Excellent 👍 hope I can keep you entertained!

A peril of push to fit models on both counts!

If you don't like it, go play Pokemon or something.

Agreed, they are way too tight

Never tried that, could be interesting!

‘No details were harmed in the making of this video’ I wouldn’t do it if it wrecked the detail, you just have to be careful as with any modelling technique.

Nothing new in the world of modelling really, I was shown this by my dad when I got my first tamiya models in the early 80s, he first started doing it in the late 50s on the original airfix releases.

If you can get it together with no gaps fair enough, I had a few and a lot of other people did as well, just sharing my hobby journey.

@adamshobbystuff I find folks miss gate nibs and use super glue alot for assembly. Adds to gaps. These kits fit literally perfectly. Build forgeworld voluntarily for a challenge. I'm used to Tamiya plastic and machine krieger level kitting. Leviathan built great.

Well, we can't all be as perfect as you....

@johnnyb5271 not perfect, just patient.

Exactly that, it will eventually begin to thicken in the pot as you open and use it so every now and then I drop a bit more poly into it.

I think because they are push to fit they don’t need glue so beginners can push them together and get gaming, problem is this makes them more awkward for correctly glueing and painting, not 100% sure that’s the case but the push to fit models have this problem more than others.

No, they are exact size to have really strong connection, but yeah, if you have not perfect alignment you can easily screw connection so it's easier to cut them a bit if you use plastic cement

Haha hopefully not!

Never tried IV resin for gaps, a couple of people have suggested it though.

Yes, after I glue them together, I’ll put some UV resin in the gaps wipe off the excess before hitting it with the light. I’ll use a cotton swab to wipe off the extra.

Thanks! You’re welcome 😀

Agreed, it was the worst, great model when it’s done though!

To be honest I never/very rarely paint in sub assemblies for the very reason of I find building models when painted very very tricky, when I’ve done it I test fit and file down etc like crazy before deciding how I’ll do the sub assemblies to really minimise the gaps, you can still do this technique but if you are not very very careful you can take paint off the parts when gluing together.

Not in my experience no, i undercoat with a variety of sources, GW black spray, airbrush Vallejo surface primer and recently colour forge games black spray, none of them have had a problem for me.

Oh, thank you, my man! That is a load off my mind! Sometimes I worry I messed up my minis from Leviathan after assembling that thanks to that! Good to know it isn't the case! @@adamshobbystuff

As long as it’s in an airtight container forever, it does evaporate when it’s open like plastic glue does but you can top up the liquid (and the plastic) I’ve had the same pot on the go for about 5 years.

Yes, the poly cement in the pot dissolves the bits of sprue and it stays runny as long as you keep the pot sealed.

@@adamshobbystuff awesome! Thank You!

There is a bit of that

It is a strange design that set, I switched mine out from my heresy box set and did the mark 3s for my Death guard so didn’t have that problem!

@adamshobbystuff it's a really weird choice. Never used to be like that back when I were a kid.

Another great way of gapfilling

It shrinks, so it really sucks for gap filling Something like Tamiya Putty gives a lot better results, doesn't shrink, also easy to clean with enamel thinner, also sanding a lot easier with it

Honestly I was really disappointed with liquid green stuff. Milliput etc. are better but are annoying to use. In my experience, gap filling by carefully overspilling glue + then sanding gives by far the best results and doesn't take nearly as much time.

@@johannestafelmaier616 this definitely the fastest way and it gives good results, but works only for pretty small gaps or just connection lines, also not always easy to sand some areas Try something like Tamiya Putty, it doesn't require mixing like milliput, dries very fast, sandable and if it hard to sand, can be smoothened with a bit of enamel thinner and cotton swab/brush/sculpting tool, also can be diluted to required consistency

sorry to say, no it doesn't I've used LGS when it came out and it is a mess and does NOT last very long when used.

The mix needs to be exposed to air for the solvent to evaporate off, this pots several years old now!

The 'glue' is a solvent that melts plastic. As long as you keep it sealed, it will stay liquid.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say they are overall poor models but certain models do have quality issues. My issue with the poses is that it makes it difficult to have more than 1 in the army unless you want lots of the same looking model.

@@adamshobbystuff agreed

Hope it’s helpful!