I think changing 3M filter periodically would help reduce calcium effectively. Good job Steve.

@@lindang8830 This is correct, and Steve you will want to buy a recirculating pump. This will help you get all that calcium build up out of your unit and this maintenance should be done annually. We sell the on our site are well.

water filter change is important as well. needed to change regularly.

I think Lin is saying to service your tankless remove the scale. I could be wrong might not be saying that.

​@@brizzx32 This is correct, you will want to buy a recirculating pump. This will help you get all that calcium build up out of your unit and this maintenance should be done annually. We sell the on our site are well. Use the pump + white vinegar for about an hour or 2 and it'll clean it all right up!

Thanks for the visit

This is correct and very helpful, but annual or biannual maintenance is still recommended.

@@SmartPartsSolutions these units have nothing really to maintain. It's all electric, all wires, adding filters and changing them every 6 months is maintenance. Flushing maybe every 10 years.

@@darrisb1727 You are correct in some parts of your statement. 1. There is plenty reason why you would want to flush a unit. Lime and calcium buildup over the years can still occur with a filter. Not all filters are made equal and not all water is made equal, Prime example down here in South Florida our water has extremely high calcium level and even with some filtration systems calcium will build up. 2. Yes this is mostly electronics, but the main power source is in the water which is the heating element. Again, a filter and proper maintenance and changing of the filter is huge, but not always the answer. We can 100s of calls monthly with customers who have whole home filters and run into this issue. I would never recommend to a customer to flush once every 10 years, but to each its own. These are my recommendations for those who have a filter. If you are on point and replace them ever 6 months, just running a vinegar flush every 2-3 years. For those that do not have a filter in line, be sure to do this annually at minimum for a long-lasting life for your unit. I appreciate your response @darris and very smart of you to install this filter and be on top of it! Hope you have a great day.

@@SmartPartsSolutions I agree with you also or I would not have come to see the video as I DID want to know how to flush my unit. I just gave an estimate of 10 years because that was the first time I service my unit. I have been changing my filter every 6 month and the first time changing out the expansion tank.

I changed the flow sensor that I bought it from Amazon. you must make sure the same flow sensor model, and put it sitting on the right spot. I changed last year until now has no problem any more. I agree with you regular heater tank is easier, but it's heavy and also has issues too if unlucky you bought the malfunction one. Each tank type has pro and con. What I understand tankless is when you dont use the water, the heater is not turning power on, no power consume. However, regular tank is different, the heater will turn on whenever water is below setting heat point whether you use or not, no power save.

@@lindang8830 wait till it goes bad again. My last one didn't last two showers. The Copper pipe got so hot that it open a hole in my 1/2 Cold PVC pipe, fill of water and 60° outside. Unfortunately they were touching at one point throughout the house. There's something else that makes the water shoot up to 300° then it melts the Flow Sensor

These Tankless units are subject to lightning damege (due to all the electronics inside). Also noticed flow rate alarms. You have to put a restricter in the line to prevent the unit from going into flow alarm. Also, the power requirement for the 18kw and above is ridiculous (2 x 40 amp breakers and higher)..

@@miguelperez-qk3no Good morning Miguel, if your flow sensor keeps going out and/or you notice that the impeller is damaged/deformed/melted, this is a sign of a bad triac cable. The steps to cure this issue is to find which element is staying on while there is no running water (Typically #1 heating element). @lindang8830 thank you for placing my companies name on this great video. I am the President of SmartParts.us. If you have any questions or issues with your unit, don't hesitate to ask.

I do not believe this is correct, the steps taken by Lin here for this particular case was correct. You are talking about what i assume to be what is known as the Thermistors, these are the temperature sensors for most Rheem, Ecosmart, Richmond and Eemax units. We carry all of them as well, the thermistors are to be replaced when you test them and get hot water instantly. In this case Lin was not getting a proper response from the flow sensor itself.

Great point. thumbs up

@@lindang8830 The reason the second element was not getting its full potential (240v) was due to a lack of GPM flowing through the unit. You may have only had a sink/faucet on, and this is an enough GPM to activate the second element to 240v. If you would've opened up a shower head and a sink, i can bet you that the voltage would rise to the full potential. These units are on demand water heaters and only power up enough elements to match the flow rate and the desired temp.

You're not very bright are you

I understand your logic, but the multimeter he had was just fine. As I mentioned in a previous comment above this is an on-demand water heater and the voltage reading was actually proper. You would see if fluctuate to keep water temperature at the set desire with the GPMs flowing through the unit. If he were to turn on a second faucet or a shower head, then you would see full potential on all elements. @theborathon be kind. :)