Thanks for responding. The unit was brand new. Over 90 percent of the comments are individuals who experienced the same issue. I'm happy that you found a solution for your unit. Hopefully someone else will read this and fix their unit the way you described. I really appreciate your input.

I'm glad it helped.

Thank you very much for the comment.

I'm very happy to hear that this worked out for you. After this modification, I had to install a 3' copper pipe on the output side to dissipate the heat. It actually melted the cpvc. I probably had it turned up too hot. Keep an eye on it.

I'm glad this video helped.

Interesting... I believe that you are on to something. Thanks for posting.

I'm glad this modification worked out for you.

Dayne Kroll ... I had to switch to copper pipe output because cpvc melted. Glad it helped you.

I have been at this for three days now and it will cost me as much in shipping to send it back to them just to see if they will warranty it. Grrrrrrrrr It runs for maybe 4 minutes and shuts off. I am considering doing this mod too.

@@walleyeye did you try the mod?

I had the same issue with my L10 and today, 6/6/2020, after getting a replacement L10, I removed the solenoid plunger and spring. Can't tell how much BS I've gone through with this and all the mis-diagnosis from eccotemp. Thank you sir!!!

@@rklegault having the same problem too. Mine will shut off if I turn it up. I Don't understand why eccotemp allow you to increase the temp with the controls just to have a valve turn it off.

illkhontak ... read some of the other comments. Especially about copper pipe.

That's a good idea if you're on a pump. The water flow definitely effects the unit.

Well I guess my water flow is not flowing fast enough because the unit gets very very hot And when I try to turn the water up the unit cuts off It's almost summer time and I don't need that much hot water is too hot to stand in I have to keep cutting the whole unit off

​@@sntruck that's the exact problem we're having with ours! We've only owned it a couple months, and since it was actually winter when we first purchased it, the inlet water temperature was so cold that it actually balanced out perfectly with the heater's settings for a shower. Now that the weather has warmed though, the water is heating to unbearable temperatures and we literally cannot even use it because, like you, adjusting the flow setting to lower the temp just causes it to shut off. It's beyond frustrating! We've even tried adding an unnecessary water pump thinking maybe if we just had more water pressure, we could adjust the flow without it tripping the shut off..... It didn't help! Did you ever find a solution for yours? I would SO greatly appreciate any advice, I really don't want to mess with the tedious, time consuming process of having to send it back if I can avoid it!

I'm glad this video helped you. I had to install 2 feet of copper pipe on the output because it melted the cpvc pipe I had.

And the next thing to happen Boom... Just boom!

I'm so glad

Carnage Asada .... make sure you read the other comments. Especially about copper pipe on the output.

I don't know. I've never run the unit that long. I would imagine that mine would shut off too. Maybe an electric start bbq circuit would work. The timing circuit would be in the main circuit box of the heater.

Fluctuating water pressure will definitely cause some problems. You will have the same issue with other units. You might be better off with a standard water heater.

Update: the new one started shutting off right away too. So I tried this and it fixed it! Genius. Never would have gotten there by myself. Thank you so much!

I let it vent inside. I'm the only one using it so it doesn't pose a problem. I have not had any issues after I installed a 3' copper pipe on the output side.

In response to my own question and to give an update to others that may be having the same problem, I first disconnected the heat temperature sensor by removing two small screws and securing the sensor inside the unit, this worked perfectly for 7 minutes straight producing hot water until I turned off the water!!! I then decided for reasons unknown to me, lol, to remove the spring plunger from the solenoid. That also made the unit work for a long time but when I tried it again with the flame control set a little higher, it seemed as though there was a gas build up in the unit and instead of a gentle ignition and flame, it sounded like a mini explosion on ignition. Long story short, I immediately put the spring plunger back in the solenoid and it again works fine for now, without the temperature sensor attached. Should the water pressure drop on my setup (running to more than one hot water outlet), the igniter re lights the burner (without the mini explosion) producing a burst of scalding hot water. I find that it takes a lot of fiddling with the gas and water flow controls to produce an acceptable temperature dependent on which faucet I use. Patrick Palombo, Thanks very much for leading me in the right direction and I hope this helps others as well, though any changes made by anyone is at their own risk!!!

Rico... I have the same flash too if I slowly turn the water on. I just turn it on fast and adj6heat accordingly. I too had to fiddle with the unit. Also, in winter I have to turn the gas up to maintain quality heat.

It's been working great for almost 5 years now and the usb battery works flawless.

P Pulambe ok but what stops the propane from flowing after you shut your water off?

Did you ever get an answer for this? Im havint this issue and temptednl to try but would like to know how the gas shuts off/stops when turned off if the spring isnt there to close it ​@walleyeye

It shuts off automatically. However, you have to turn the hot water valve on fast to ignite the flame

The unit setup and modifications operated exactly as hoped. I didn't install the exterior vent. Unfortunately, Hurricane Laura put a stop to everything and I no longer live there. I truly miss living there.

The USB charger wires should have red and black too.

@@ppulambe8311 cheers

@@alfbittner6489 I'm guessing that you are happy now!

@@ppulambe8311 No joy as yet. Still have to get a charging cord and plug, then solder the wires. Doing that today. Payed $100 for rechargeable batteries that won't hold a charge, bunch of crap they make these days.

Yes.

I imagine that if you increase the flow, the efficiency of the heat transfer would decrease especially in winter. I already have to slow the flow to get hot water during winter season.

@@ppulambe8311 what's the coldest temps you get in the winter? For winter I have my gas regulator knob towards the middle and water temperature regulator knob maxed out. But today I had to turn to gas regulator down just a little bit because it's summer and now it gets too hot only when someone turns on the cold I guess the hot/cold faucets start fighting with each other slowing down the flow to the tankless thus raising the temperature pass 140 degrees and tripping safety. I would risk increasing the nipple to 3/4 may actually solve the problem but it might not be possible if the coils are all 1/2" Note: I currently have 3/4" cpvc going to the tank then reducing to 1/2" to connect.

@@WilliamJoseph2015... I'm in southwest Louisiana. I don't shower when it's freezing, unless I want a very cool shower. My settings are high gas, low flow for winter and the opposite for summer. I don't have to turn the cold water on at all. I also have two shower heads with a selector valve. Summer time I use the high flow shower head and water saver head in the winter.

Try turning the hot water on fast and then slow the flow. I experienced the same thing. It seems the water flow sensor needs quite a bit more water flow to trigger ignition.

Ok so have the flow on max and lower it after it gets started. What do u have the heat on? I so scared I'm gona blow up.

it works excellent. the red control on the left controls the flame intensity. the blue controls the flow of the water. I have it set on low flame and slow flow. it's a good hot shower.

Thanks for the comment. That makes complete sense. Judging from the other comments, the factory is installing them incorrectly.

@@ppulambe8311 Could be miss labeled as propane when in fact for nat gas, or set or a two stage regulator instead of normal single stage. The gas is also controlled by the brass water/gas valve assembly so shuts off there as well. I would check the high temp switch with a multimeter on ohm setting guess normally closed, if so a jumper at disconnect tells everything is normal to control module. Eccotemp is better quality, but imported so can be miss labeled wrong regulator

@@thomasmorris4914 it worked great for the five years l lived there. Hurricane Laura knocked my tiny house off the piers. I no longer live there.

matt holdren ... it must have. I've never experienced that

Patrick Palombo thanks! I’ll have to try that

matt holdren ... another recommendation. Use copper pipe out. I melted sch.40 cpvc .

matt holdren ... to answer the first question. The thermal switch at the top left probably resets after it cools ofc.

Thx for the copper advice. Neither has anything to do with the 20 min override. I found a way around it with a power supply for the pump that cycles 20 min on 10 sec off!

I'm glad this video helped you.

It's vary simple.

yes. I can have boiling water come out of the tap.

And that was simply from disconnecting the heat temp switch, correct?

Yes! However. .. if the unit keeps shutting off, like mine did. you'll probably have to remove the electronic shutoff too. Something else... these units have to have a good flow of water. I've noticed that you have to turn the hot water on, at least halfway, to light the gas. from there you adjust the cold water to acquire the desired temperature and not adjust the hot. maybe that's a flaw in my unit because of the hacks I had to do.

Thank you for the input. The unit performed perfectly for 5 years until Hurricane Laura took it all. I learned how to prevent backfire by turning the water on fast and then slow the flow to desired temperature.

@@ppulambe8311 you're welcome. Your procedure makes sense. Sorry about your loss man.

It’s a safety shut off solenoid it does not regulate the gas flow however removing it could end up having an explosion under the right conditions

After making the modifications, the unit is working great. It's been right at three years now without any issues. I definitely enjoy this system. One thing I have learned just this month, water efficiency shower heads do not work well.

What do you think is the plunger gas shut off valve is for? Maybe 2nd safety shut off because I notice that if I shut of water with plunger out gas also turn off don’t even need the plunger to shut of gas. Also thanks for the video mine works now.Tech support could not help me and was going to return it.

this resulted in mine when I replaced a new showerhead with reduced volume as mandated by the state of CA. As soon as I ripped all those reducing items out, the thing when back to normal function. That said, it does need adequate (u uninhibited) water pressure and volume to operate properly.

@@simsinca I've installed a two way valve splitter on my shower. In the winter, I use the slower water flow shower head so it can heat up the really cold water. In the summer, I use the faster shower head. All in all, after four years, it still works.

4 years and still working...good enough. Great comments and responses P Pulambe.

This has been a very dependable unit once the modifications were made. Have you replaced the batteries with an old usb charger? It's nice to not have to replace batteries.

They must know something is wrong if they're marking it.

Yes, and it's still working perfectly.

If you read the comments, that'd be a bunch of dirty sensors. Thank you for the input.

I tried that and Didnt work. Im gonna try the plunger next on my L5.

Yes! It's been over 3 years now. I had to add 3' of copper pipe on the output side because of the heat expanding the cpvc.

Heck yea I've been having problems with my l7 and about to do this to it

Brett Cason . Yep! I had to. I don't like cold showers. You probably would've kept sending the unit back and complaining. I figured out what the problem was and solved it. It's been well over a year now and I haven't had any problems. It works perfectly according to my desired function. If you read other comments, you'll see that it's common. What is your beef about this? What do you care?

no i would have sent it back and bought the camplux. lower gpm needed and only 2psi water pressure needed. that heater could almost run on a 5gal bucket a few feet above it.

Brett Cason .. That's cool. I use mine for daily use. Not camping. It's permanently mounted in my house and runs off city water. I had to bypass the safety switch because I am combining cold water to reach desired temp. This unit is designed for outside water hose bathing. That's why it has the 140 degree switch. I basically converted it to work like the home systems. I saved quite a bit of money by doing this modification.

good job man , this totally helped me out! fuck brett

I watched the video and determined that this wasn't my issue. I never had ignition problems unless I turned the hot water valve on slowly. That's the only time I had fireball effects. I would open the hot water valve fast, flame would ignite, then I would adjust the water flow. Thanks for the input. I didn't have the copper core like his. Very nice.

jon Will Hahahaha.... if your welds melt at 140 .... then you must be using hotglue! Nice one little dipper!

G Davis, it's easier to disable it completely by removing the rubber grommet. I had already tried different water pressures to no avail. I spent several hours tweaking everything before disabling and removing parts. That's why I made a video.