My favorite person in all of the youtube world to watch!! Peter is the man, the myth and the legend!

Man... Peter I wish I was in your area, I would come fix that chip conveyor in a heartbeat just to be able to say I met Peter Stanton! Thank you for the videos.

As allways ....a pleasure to watch! Beeing a non-machinist but technically interestet retired opticien from the Netherlands i can apreciate your skilss and your attitude to your work! Thanks for your many video`s👍👍👍

Nice job as always. Thanks for explaining the process.

That is going to be a robust wheel hub for your Toyota. :-)

And that you provide very good technical and specialized information. Thanks

I tried to like the video 3 times because forgot i already liked it. Your atittude is rare here where I live in the UK. Needs more people like you, but i guess that comes from you are the owner of the company and not just an employee who's waiting the end of the shift.

The air coming out of the knife is probably in laminar flow. At the edge of an air stream is the boundary layer. A laminar boundary layer is thinner and has less drag than a turbulent boundary layer, but doesn’t stick to a surface as well. In this case you want the airflow to remain attached to the surface (lens cover), drag isn’t an issue. So I think you’d get better results with a turbulent boundary layer. You can experiment with this by sticking a thin strip of coarse abrasive strip just in front of the air knife exit. That should tip the flow into a more sticky turbulent boundary layer that should clear the lens more effectively. Some gliders have a strip of abrasive on the leading edge to keep the airflow attached to the wing. (Higher drag, but lower stall speed)

I'm with you on the CAM being nicer and safer. I think it's actually not effective overall, too. I don't use a Mazak, but I've found conversational is only useful for the things I could write in straight gcode, and if it's that simple, might as well do that! We invented CAM systems for a reason! It's the smart thing to use them!

Thank you again for a most enjoyable and educating video, my machining requirements I can do upon a basic centre lathe. However seeing your efforts and sort of Art is very satisfying. Take care too.

It amazes me how much force those jaws can grip with to hold a part that heavy that far out of the chuck!! Here I am putting a tailstock in on a little 3x3 part because it feels big lol.

Excelente trabajo maestro muy buen acabado felicitaciones.

I'll watch this video on the weekend, with a high end Whisky 👍🏻😎..... cheers,

Another great video, thanks for making it.

Great video to watch.Thankyou

You could use an inline oiler setup to inject Rain-X in to the air line to the camera. Toolmakers use them on their pencil grinders all the time.

muy buen video edge precision..gracias por tu tiempo..un saludo y mucha salud

Yeah my boss tried getting us to use conversational programming it’s much easier to program on a big screen where you can zoom in and you have much more features. Chip impressions scrap parts!

I'm a 1 man, 1 machine shop too and my wife is always telling me that making the part to its tolerances is fine enough but I sometime get carried away as well and want that dim as close to target as my body will allow

For the rainex, maybe a standard air line lubricator would do the job, maybe even a full FRL (filter regulator lubricator). Off the shelf solution to inject small amounts of fluid into the air stream.

One more excuse to watch your channel: EXCELLENCE!

Holding heavy blanks to chuck-jaw can be assisted by T-slots & clamps, saving the other precision components. Adjusting back flange & OD runout, T-slots & Jack Screw, saves the whacking while using 2 indicator setup. Observing each adjustment / movement. Saves what is left of our strength 😌! Old Skool

I designed a similar thing eight years ago and wrote a technological process for its manufacture. The problem was that we did not have such CNC equipment in production and we had to sharpen the shaft separately, and then cut out the flange on laser cutting, and then weld it to the shaft using shielding gas welding. And then turn the flange assembly with the shaft on a universal lathe in manual mode. But turning did not remove the residual beats, they still remained above the norm. With such equipment and a program, it would be possible to obtain a part with high accuracy.

you just answered my question about mazitrol verse esprie you are applying the same logic that I use Thanks

Peter now mast teach adom79 cnc programming and machining. From the time he decided to learning, he mast learn from the grand master. Greetings from Greece.

Nice work quality is king always

Hi Peter. Keep up The Very Interesting Good Work as I know it can be a pain when you are continually working on heavy Stock however even though I've been retired for many years back in The late 60s &70s I had a bit to do with A Swiss Tape Controlled Jig Borer however when machining Stock in Lathes we would always take a skim to break The Skin which was also beneficial if The Work happened to move. Cheers. Brian

Having that conveyor down will turn you tough as nails especially on a lathe .25doc at .015 that’s a heavy shovel haha that reminds me I use to have to crawl into a fadal 40x20 to shovel chips out because the company saved a “ton of money not buying the chip conveyor option ”

So many great things in this video a real treasure trove and very clear and lucid. Really liked the roughing footage; cool idea with the rainx + air knife. I've wondered if its possible to pulse the coolant somehow (in particular instances ) so you can synch your frame rate almost stroboscopically (24 to 60 fps) so that the phasing can be such that you see the actual cut mostly without coolant even though the surface is receiving coolant. Perhaps better than cutting dry for didactic purposes. I really liked the footage showing the near mayhem of the rough cuts - really enjoyable to see that. ALSO really appreciate the split frame showing the inserts - genius ! (Really helpful - rough and finish.). Also CAM strategies and programming for different less obvious tool paths to fit much more appropriately the torque of the spindle. [I'm defiantly going to have to steal that approach :-) .]. At the end I really liked how you just walked with the camera round the corner of the machine and into the work area and main spindle looking down into the length of the machine (towards the tail stock) and then pivot to the main spindle and the craned part: it gives a really GOOD 3D feel to the whole space, the machine, the space occupied by the machine and the whole "human" working space that you have yourself jammed in there like a space capsule/space station - in "One take". You probably take that for granted but the wide angle lens and walkabout that way was really cool and creates a REAL feeling of the space. [Thanks so much for making this - really good visual and technical explanation that holds one's attention all the way to the end - definitely appreciate the time and effort and thoughtful explanations / edits. Awesome ! ].

All professional. Thanks Peter!

We do parts similar to those we call them tophats we do them on a vtl wish the would use a bigger drill than they do. Great video

Perfect process, Precisely followed.

very nicely done , i to like the animation of the cutting operation

When I'm indicating in on a 4-jaw and have to bang on the part next to the dial indicator. I'll slightly pick up the indicator point off the work piece, so it doesn't shock the indicator. Of course, I do strictly manual machining. Enjoy watching your videos, Ken.

Thanks for sharing Mr. Pete!!!!

Its fun to make that kind of pieces I usually make pieces between diameter 400-800 and with alot of grooving that takes time but the amount of work that goes in is just fun to do and its time eating 😁 Nice job making that part 👍

Love the air cooling holes in the shirt! I have so many that are like that as well. :-)

i don't know what it is or what it does but it must be a $20,000 part.....you have a magnificent and fearsome robotic lathe there .... these modern machines are otherworldly ....i'm guessing but it would be interesting to calculate the total amount and cost of electric power it required to machine that item ....i'm guessing it must approach $200 to $300 just for electricity which is the cheapest item in the list of requirements to make something like that........you could probably take on 3 apprentices and charge them $60,000 a year tuition each over 5 years to learn the trade if you wanted the nuisance and bother of teaching in addition to your other jobs.......very well done and after doing it for 35 years you make it look almost easy

Dude, please don’t worry so much about what we nosy onlookers can see… the important thing is getting it right 👍

Love the videos. I do have a question about indicators on horizontal machines. When I was trained on a horizontal mill a few years ago, my instructor said that you shouldn't use a normal dial test indicator in the spindle to pick up on holes, because gravity will give you a false reading. To demonstrate, he used a Noga Mag Base on a piece of flat stock, zeroed the indicator on the steel and turned the whole apparatus upside down. Sure enough, it drooped about .001. To get around it, I was told a co-axial indicator never has this issue. Have you run into this sort of problem on the Mazak or Mits? Do you think it's a lack of rigidity in the Noga Arm or an inherent issue in the mechanism of the dial test indicator? Thanks for making great content!

Those that say they can set this up in 2 mins please do a live video shows how you set this up in 2 minutes,unless your scared to show us that you are just a troll who knows nothing about cnc work,I will leave that with the trolls either do a video and send it to him so he can show us all or shut up and stop running your mouth on somebody else's channel

Fantastic content Peter!

When I put the part in the lathe (hanging from the crane) I always liked for the part to be slightly higher on the tail stock end, doing this works as you lower the part into the jaws the part will stay in place using gravity, you don’t need to hold the part with a tail stock or turret.

I know as you mentioned that cleaning out the coolant is a mission. However I think it could drastically improve the film quality. You know that feeling when you just clean a machine out and there is no tramp oil residue. The machine is really clean and coolant seems to effortlessly drain off without clinging to everything. Just a though, with the go pro air blade and clean coolant I imagine the time you spend filming is much less aswell. I dont know if you ever reshoot any of the filming due to quality but it could save you time in the long run if its something your having to do as a result.

wow he takes 1/4 of the roughing depth of the cut and the part sticks out over 18 inches long part weighs about 930 lbs without tail stock support it me feel nervous, but everything turned out okay on the first side operation, the second operation was a lot more easily feel more secure chucking than first,!!!

Thanks for another very entertaining and informative video. I wanted to ask you about your choice of finishing insert, I noticed that you (and other KZfaq machinests) use a VNMG style insert for finishing and was wondering why? I prefer a TNMG style as they seem stronger and give 6 edges instead of only 4.

Hello! As always.. very nice video!

Hey there, Thanks for your time doing this video, it is very educational. I’m so curious to know about the cost of machining of these parts, I know lots of factors come into play when it comes to estimates this kind of perfect job. Thanks.

You are the best teacher I have ever seen. I will give you my best wishes. In which city is your workshop?

Great video. Thanks. What was the max load on the machine spindle during roughing? How do you balance spindle HP against tool life?

I like to play these longer videos when I'm puttering with desk/hand work stuff. Just listening to 40:13, and thought "what if you completely filled your mazak enclosure with clear oil, then we could see much better" haha

For the rain x you could probably put in an inline air oiler

Use the ceramic coating that u apply with a small sponge to the camera lens It's for auto paint protection Works miracles on glass

Thank you for yours knowledge!

you are the best, man!

I also use that rain x on my lynx 2100 window so the coolant rolls off. It dont last but a day or two but it works!

How 'flat' are the jaw faces relative to each other jaw? I apologise if you have already covered this earlier.

We use 2x4 screw together in a T shape with different length with the tail stock. The same way ish celling drywall peoples would do to hold the drywall up in the air...

There used to be a form of Rain-X that was a stick that you rubbed on the windshield and then buffed with a damp rag, and it lasted quite a while. Maybe that stuff still exists as well as the squirty kind. Some sort of venturi suction should work for injecting it in the air line. Might be able to get a cheap Chinese coolant mister that you could adapt. Or of course just make something.

The Compac extended travel indicators are a bit more expensive but I like the dials on them better. They have an impressive amount of shock resistance.

he set the boring bar bore to dept of cut is too close to hit the bar holder as I watch it make me nervous .but he is an excellent machinist he can do his own program which it he knows precisely what he doing, however, I like to work in the machine shop with this man, CNC Mazak fine axis you can start and complete part everything in one machine.!!!

Part looks good Peter, nice job. +1 on the inline oiler for the rain-x I bet that would work.

Well Done!

What spindle speed do you lock the max rpm at? That is a massive workpiece.

Nice work Pete

I wonder how you would do these setups with hydraulic chucks would it be easier and more convenient or is it gonna cost more since you have to machine soft jaws for the specific diameter and is there a way to adjust runout on a hydraulic chuck I know you don't use them because they are so big and it creates clearance problems and that's why you are using this smaller 4 jaw chuck

Peter, for your rainex, try and oil fog lubricator - like the use in compressed air systems.

Am also a machinist....Good machining...precision dimensions..flange backside drill holes must me deburring..

peter i am working on a flange like this 40 times smaller huh? so 3mm base the shaft is 22mm long for a total of 25mm LENGTHwise the first diameter is 25mm the diameter of the base 60mm i had to put a relief /face groove around the shaft for about .5mm deep! the part has bent in. it's no longer flat anymore [at the base]. is it possible to re shape it? ? would you use heat? it's stainless steel 304

Am i able to ask...but say if you need to modify the program to do tapers and or radius G03 or G02 without cutter compensation do you edit the program manually or do you edit the program using the CAM software?

I wonder why 6 thumbs down? Really!!!!!!!!!!. Great job man.

Nice work !

Good job Peter.

Peter I would really be interested in how you setup you tool offsets on the Mazak. In the tool data page or tool offsets? And the what settings you use in you cam software. Also how you setup a tool in your cam with holders and what not. Doesn’t have to be anything too special but if you could please make a video detailing some of this I would be really grateful. So far I’ve just been learning as I go on my integrex and due to having another Mazak lathe mazatrol was easy to pickup. But this is my first time trying to use eia code and Im getting all kinds of odd things like diameters coming out way off size and other strange things.

Peter, you must put the games with shovel in video! It would be so funny! Thanks for excellent job.

Peter the man the myth the legend. My work has 2 Mazak integrex e650s with big plus cat 50 spindles. They were made around the early 2000s, I'm told that they were some of the first ones mazak made. Both of them have weird things about them that work funky. how has your experience with yours been?

Nice t-shirt =D. Good work.

Whenever you milled the holes, was there any reason why you didn't keep the head/spindle in one location and index the chuck? You ended up doing half and then indexed 180°. I'm just a slightly curious pretend machinist.

Curious if there is a program or feature that will allow you to turn a dish face like a manual lathe was meant to. Cheers.

Thanks for showing all the raw video, your ideas are really helpful for me When I am machining something, Can you please show us something based on probing cycle on your mazatrol integrex

for the spray idea: maybe you can get/make an adapter that functions with the venturi effect. might just be the perfect solution.

_Peter, why did you waste so much material?!_ _Why didn't you weld round stock to a flange?!_ _Don't you care about charging customers too much money?!_ _Just Kidding!!_ 🤣👏 _I watched your previous video on the topic._ 👍

We are using air hoists, no electric shocks on the wand.

What's your DOC at 14:16? I am making nearly the same part as you. I have the flange on the front, and holding the body with a FlexC collet chuck. Using a 1.5in solid boring bar with CNMG 432.. it chatters real bad. I might just have to pickup an anti-vibe bar... they're so bloody expensive. I'm hoping I can find the sweet spot feed/doc.

Very interesting, thanks.

Would the rain-x get mixed with the lubricant? Will it not be detrimental?

Why would you not take a light cut on the O.D. prior to turning part end for end? You know you have an issue with seating the part in the 4 jaw! For chamfering, I find an old Brace with a chamber tool in it works quickly and well.

Do you have some thumb rule for material stick out ? Usually for 1 " lenght of chucking lenght i go up to 3xD of stick out , just curiois to compare with you! Nice vids, i have a e500h and listening to your videos helped me a lot in the starting of my own shop Thanks a lot

Hi Peter, when the machine stopped at 11:53 for you to measure the diameter, did the tool just stop in the cut as the spindle came to a stop, and then restart again while the edge was in the cut, or did something else happen?

how come you didnt turn a register when you faced off? that would have been common sense? just wondering as you were on about trueness in the jaws yet you left the skin on. i usually skim how much im holding plus extra or the length of the part up to the jaws

Nicely done! Cheers!;-)!

Some people film through a fast spinning perspex window that slings all the coolant to the edges...

Thanks Peter for the video. It was a kind nerve breaking when the spindle ramp up in speed for center cut :-) . When cutting away such a massive part of material will it need heat treatment for internal tensions ? or the material is stable so it will not spontaneous release tensions.

Using a new piece of stock you faced it, you drilled it, why not take a skim cut on the OD so that the OD is round and true to the face cut then when you turn it around it should sit flat on your jaws.

Im just wondering , wouldn't it been better just to take a light skim of the OD on first OP? So it easier to make the part run true but i keep this videos up very nices to watch .

It's a bit oftopic, but I'm wondering how your Ballscrews are holding up, since you do roughing and finishing on this machine, I'm asking cause at my work the X-Axis on a rather big horizontal CNC Mill is slightly worn out (after 7 years) and you can see it on the milled surfaces and the axis is a bit "springy", 3 out of 5 Ballscrews get replaced this year, I guess it's not so bad with a lathe cause the Forces go mostly in one direction

Thank you for sharing

The Windex dispenser--just add a small venturi into your air line just before the air blade to automatically add the windex?. Or get an inline air oiler and fill it with windex?

Can you purchase a rough casting closer to the dimensions? Or is it not possible? Is it cost effective to have a cut off pieces where you just mill them? Thank you for educating on the process of set ups, milling, and finishing a part.

a suggestion to get better shots ; put a perspex disk, spinning in front of the camera, it will sling the coolant off - resulting in no drops sitting in front of the camera