Woah, thanks !

Thanks Gary ! Don't worry there's more content coming 😀

Thanks for watching Basil !

Glad to hear Kevin, series of videos are something I haven't explored a lot. Maybe more in the future eh !

Thankyou Peter, glad you liked it !

Thanks Darson my mate ! Appreciate you being along for the ride

Thanks Wayne !

Best of luck with it John

Thanks Rod that is very kind , great tip on the mud thankyou , might be pinching that for future use 😀

That made me smile thanks mate !

The mersu boxing is great, I tackled one a little while ago. Nice and interesting schemes, a nice change from standard luftwaffe

Thanks Ferbie much appreciated 🙏!

Thanks Mate, I think from now on I'm taking extra care with the masks..

Cheers mate 😄

That's so very kind thankyou my friend!

Cheers Simon !

Thanks Gaz ! This was a lot more successful than my panzer IV series so it's looking like a more viable option for the future. Glad it helped and it was good to go into more detail !

Thanks ! Chipping is something I'm always keen to improve on so thats great to hear

Thanks man !

Cheers my man !

Thankyou Andrew !

Thanks Micheal 😊

Glad it was a help 😀

Thanks Sera ! 😁

Thanks mate

Cheers mate 😀

Thanks Dave mate, I hope alls well on your end 😀

Thanks Robbo, I'm pretty heartened by the results of this little partwork experiment, there may well be more soon 😀

Thanks Thierry, much appreciated !

Thanks Sean, they are among my favourite kits to build !

Thanks Andy, I'm definitely considering doing more partwork builds, well see what the future brings mate !

@@lpjmodels can’t wait!……well I guess I have to but you get the idea!!

Thanks Neil !

Cheers Andrew ! I like to change things up now and again

@@lpjmodels how long do you leave VMS varnish for, before using any thing like oil’s / decals over it?

It's a good idea to check what material was underneath the paintwork for sure 😀 I appreciate the kind words Gavin

Thanks VMS !

Cheers mate 👍

I dont know of I have the patience for one of those 😅

That's the one ! I found the airfield on Google maps ( satellite) just north of the town , interesting stuff

Thanks László, I'll have to take a deeper dive into the removable decal thing. I forsee a few test before I get stuck in with my next Eddy build

@@lpjmodels Hi, I don't know, why they stopped archive the latest issues, but I saved the relevant pages into a separate pdf and uploaded to the google drive. drive.google.com/file/d/1K-tAf4Tunz2BACybitV0EhAZNah9cFKE/view?usp=sharing

The lazy brit slur , I know it well 🤣

Thanks Raul, some were in register very well these were slightly off I just ran with it

Thanks Kenneth, I did a G in Finnish marking early on in the channel, it is due an update but I can't give you a time on when I'll get round to it. I have a g-6 with engine and all the extra gubbins in the stash for the future

@@lpjmodels Hi I saw that Eduard G-2 and gotta say that I love the way you explain everything . Can’t wait to see that G-6 one 👍

Thanks mate ! I'm using a Samsung s10+ phone and my mic is a Rode videomic Me. Lighting I have the benq lamp and a daylight lumi task lamp. It's still not quite bright enough but when I have my pc sorted I'll be getting some more lighting 😀

@@lpjmodels So pretty simple. You sure get great production value out of your phone. I'm using an IPhone 8 but need to upgrade to a better camera soon. Cheers.

Hi mate I waited until the thinner had evaporated. About 5-10 minutes, and no thinner on the brush

Completely agree

Figures and small vignette incoming

Hi mate. Paints usually from scalemodelshop or any tamiya from the local, brushes my old work before it closed !

@@lpjmodels ah, thank you LPJ, i will take a look.

The camera is much less forgiving than the eye, any mess or dust or anything is much more likely for me to spot watching the video back. The camera is closer than my eyes are as well. There was no apparent staining on the upper surfaces and on the lower it was fairly easy to remove with the blue being less forgiving. Your different surfaces give you different levels of grip, I would only weather over tamiya if it was thinned with Mr levelling thinner just to smooth down some of the rougher areas and to decrease the chance of paint staining and the matt surface absorbing the colour beyond fixing. This won't always happen though and a lot of factors can determine the final outcome . The thing I like about the vms matt and satin varnishes is that you literally hose them on and they self level nicely and give you a either dead matt, or silky satin sheen. Too many layers of varnish can be a right pain but for sealing over decals ( applied over a matt or satin or paint) is essential to help hide carrier film. On the Minerva Build this is very apparent as I decalled straight onto the ak real colour. The one thing you risk when weathering straight onto the paint is potential damage of the substrate if you are using a particularly hot oil thinner. But if you're careful it's fine.

@@lpjmodels thank you for the reply. ill be using Abteilung odorless thinner, that's not strong from the research i've done, hopefully im right🤔. I'm gonna use tamiya semi-gloss, then weather, then apply a matt coat. does the matt coat completely eliminate the presence of the previous semi gloss? im using the tamiya TS spray cans.

@@lpjmodels hey got a question, i was just reding the Tamiya TS -79 semi-gloss can and Ts-80 can i purchased and there's a warning saying not to use these products on decals. I don't get it. i see people use gloss, semi-glosses, matt finishes over decals all the time, be it they come out via airbrush and not can. what gives? The TS Tamiya cans are synthetic lacquer.