Very exciting. I'm looking forward to the first firing.

Simon, done it and it's working, splendid. Referenced you on the video, thanks and cheers

I'm making my own based on your bigger conversion. Just doing the chimney and I'm ready to test. Relatively cheap a lot of fun to do I can highly recommend it. Getting the donor kiln is the hardest part. Great video Simon

Nice can't wait till August when I get a chance to head your way.

Can't wait to get back to California and convert my second kiln.the props should be fine as in my first converted kiln I hit 2500 f and melted my shelves but the props held up fine. The 40 lb bottle is plenty.i would get a bisque and a glaze out of one tank plus enough for a quick raku.here on Oklahoma,I get a bisque and a cone 9 out of one bottle with none to spare.

Thank you !! 🙂

Have you ever looked at building the firebox separate from the kiln then setting the rest of the kiln on top with the flames coming through ports in the firing chamber floor so you get nearly the entire volume of the original kiln for the firing chamber? I plan to (try and) convert a 10 sided electric to gas kiln before summer and think I can make it work... from a pile of old firebrick and a new 55# bag of 3000F castable refractory cement, right now the one thing I think I'll need to purchase. Line the firing chamber with 2600F ceramic blanket to protect the soft brick and give it just a bit more insulation.

Your lucky to be given kilns Simon, everyone in the UK seems to want a fortune for them, even if they don't work, kilns are fast becoming my Nemesis to the extent of giving up pottery after five years of practicing and hard work. Great job on the conversion hope it fires well for you.

You have been a lot of help , thank you very much, " where do I find that meter for reading the heat ? please Thanks Again Angel Pla Tampa Florida

Any suggestions for doing a conversion like this for a soda kiln? The kiln body I will have will be more like 9-10 cubic feet, and I’d prefer to do the flue leading to a chimney going up the outside if the kiln like with your first conversion, so that there is enough room for the soda to flow through the kiln with the flames and have a fairly even coverage. I am going to coat the IFBs on the inside with Zircopax washes fired on in to protect as best I can against the soda from eating through the IFBs as fast. I thought I would need ceramic fiberboard for the chimney and a burner wall but it looks like I can use either kiln shelves or cut IFB, which would be a lot cheaper than fiberboard and since I won’t be able to put additional washes of Zircopax in the chimney easily after it is built like I can on the walls, it would be better to use something cheap and sacrificial I guess. I’m not sure why the chimney went to an inside build instead of the flue leading to the chimney being outside, which would allow more room for flames to move through the stack in the kiln and more room for wares. Does it improve the the draft of the flue and chimney significantly to have the chimney inside? I realize it would keep the wall of the chimney and the gases inside it warmer when the chimney is inside, but seems like it would have a lot of downsides. I have MR-100 venturis, which Ward Burner told me one of them is going to be so powerful I might not be able to do lowfire soda firing (cone 3-4) like I was planning because it is going to heat up so fast with just one of those, so cone 6 or even 10 might be the soda firing I’m doing with what he considers such a small kiln. I’m also curious about having the burner and flue on the same side. A book I bought self published on doing a TDI downdraft conversion is fairly similar to this design compared to your first design, with the flue and chimney on the inside, but the burner on the opposite side with a burner wall and the burner coming in vertically from underneath (which I am not doing, I am definitely doing horizontal burner coming in and hopefully at an angle to help the soda swirl up and through and down. Especially I can’t do a burner coming up from underneath as I will be putting in the soda ash in water right above the burner port or through it as it has been recommended to me by a soda firer not to with such a small kiln spray in to the peep holes in the sides. I’m very conflicted with the design in the book I have, I don’t think it has enough room for the flames to move through, and I wasn’t in love with the internal chimney either especially since a while ago I saw your first conversion with an outside chimney. I have a little time before I have to decide for sure on my design. Are you still totally pro internal chimney and the flue being on the same side as the burner, or have you found that having the flue opposite the burner is of any benefit, just to get the flames totally through the stack? I really want to make sure I’m as even as possible with the soda getting to as much of the ware as possible, considering I have a much smaller soda kiln than most people, I should be able to reach the wares with the soda so much easier 😅

Looks great, Simon! Hey I was wondering if you still used that metal vent/flue pipe with your other kiln, and if you planned on using something similar over the hole in the lid on this new kiln?

Hi Simon. And wondering why you switched bricks for your chimney? I believe the last time you used hard fire bricks. Just used what you had? Thanks so much for your video. You've inspired me to make sure I get mine done this summer.

I would like to give everyone an alternative idea even if they cannot find. An old kiln at the rating that they need to do this conversion. You can always find a 50 gallon. Drum wrap it inside with refractory wool. And then lay your brick cutting the angles on. A bandsaw or even by hand so that they lock in all the way around. . These breaker so easily cut its almost faster to do them by hand. It does not have to be a stainless Kiln you can use. A 50 gallon drum. I'm certain of it. .

You should use kiln gas valve 😁 you could put in temp controls and a t-stat

Does it keep the neighbors awake at night? I have a weed killer similar to the one you used, and just one will turn heads.

Hi Simon can you give the recipe for your cement to build the kiln.

I'm curious if you have any thoughts on moving the chimney to the outside of the kiln and venting through the side wall. You would lose less internal space, but on the downside, you're cutting another hole in the sidewall. I'm trying to figure out the best way to convert mine... the electronics are shot and I only paid 100 bucks for it. I can't run electric because I don't have the hook ups for it.

What's the highest temperature you have got it up to?

whats the name of that burner

Cone 8

First of all, I'd like to take a second to thank you for your channel and all the information that you provide. I will be signing up as a patreon if you have that available. I have not looked yet. I have only been throwing again for about 6 months and unbelievably it all came back to me after several hours behind the wheel. . I bought a new wheel, but I wasn't able to afford a high-end wheel. I bought a mid-range. Product from a company called speedball and I know it's not the best wheel in the world, but it seems to suit me for now at least. . I have talked to Potters that have use speedball products for years and years and they like them so I guess I don't have to feel that bad about the purchase . But I'm getting off track. Have you talked yet About the difference in reduction-oxidation, etc. Etc, etc. Is home a little bit. Ignorant of the topic. Right now I was able to buy an old. Vulcan Kiln for next to nothing, and I found a local company that manufactured the lightweight. Fire brick that is basically about half an hour from me. I was really lucky. . I completely rebuilt the entire thing. I have a machine. That I was able to automate cutting. Slots 4 the elements and I purchased completed elements rather than making the elements myself, although now, I have bought the material to do that as well for the future. . I'm also building. A small Kiln just for testing glazes as I make my own . As soon as I became successful with throwing and glazing and people started coming forward wanting to purchase my Wares I started thinking about building a very large. Wood burning or Gas-fired Kiln, so I'm trying to learn what I can on KZfaq. About the subject. Perhaps converting a electric kiln might be a good idea, but I would have to find one that's rated for cone 10. I imagine or the brick would suffer. The company that I found that makes the brick also makes the 3000 degree brick. But unfortunately every brick they make that is a 3000 degree range is wedge-shaped. So I would have to do a very creative patterns. Thank God that I came back to this. Fantastic art form before it was too late and you see I'm very sick. I was considered terminal and now I beating my condition to the point where they don't think it'll ever affect my longevity. In other words, it's not going to end up. With one cancer as they thought it would it's a very rare condition. I won't go into. . I am thoroughly enjoying. Throwing I'm suffering with kidney stones at the moment and I haven't thrown a pot in a week and I feel terrible about that worsen anyting, LOL. Anyway, thank you for your efforts. And again, I was wondering in any of these videos do you talk about? The reasons behind wanting a gas kiln. in other words all that having against killing will Give you. Thank you.

Is there any value or use to keep the “kiln sitter” in as a possible clue on reaching temp when using the propane?

Thanks for the videos! Can I ask, what is the kiln cement / glue made from? Cheers, Paul

Is it possible to put this conversion kiln into reduction? or would you need to add a damper in chimney?

Still cannot find a good kiln I can afford :(