Seriously -- I do love watching experienced mechanics work their magic. Fortunately we can pause and review these videos when it takes us 15 minutes to remove something they removed in 30 seconds haha

Awesome!

Must not be his car

I prefer penitrox, it's a line of products made for professional electricians to use on electrical connections that are dissimilar metals, it's a grease with specific metals suspended in it.

Not really needed with sealed AGM batteries with quality posts. I have 11 year old Odysseys with zero corrosion.

@@kingrpriddick Penetrox is the correct name.

So that's tough one, no not all MS are the same, the Dual motor is easy, the rear wheel drive is hard, I have a video on that one also, the older MS requires a battery with bolt on terminals on it where the DM just needs posts, its not an easy find due to the terminals being on the opposite side of what the MS requires. evtuning.com/ has 12v available online.

@@ElectrifiedGarage Thanks for the info, my 12v battery has no issues yet with about 120,000 miles , 2018 M-S100D. I have an appointment Jan 12 with Tesla Service Center about my MCU, hope they will replace under the email warranty issue. Thanks again. Please open up a shop in Port St Luice, FL. Thanks again Dale .

When the 12 volt fail message/light comes on or when your car doors, trunk and frunk won’t open or respond. That’s a whole other video on how to get into a dead battery (12V) Tesla. I’m sure Chris and Chad will make that video for us.

I did not get any warning and it was super inconvenient when the 12V died. I would just replace it every 5 years as a precaution now.

The car will usually give you alerts saying the 12V battery needs to be replaced before it actually goes completely dead on you. However, this is not always the case and sometimes the battery dies completely before the car can even show an alert, or the alert will show and the battery will die immediately. Most of the time though, you have an advance warning with a 12V battery alert.

@@hackerman2k Thank you!

Not always. My 12V battery died in the middle of a software update (as the DCDC would not top it up during the update) bricking the car. After replacing the battery it woke up but was not drivable or chargeable. Luckily Tesla service was able to fix it over the air by uploading another software update. An indication that the 12V was on its way out was a slightly higher drop in SOC when the car was parked for a few days.

Used a ride-on mower battery on my older Model S and it worked. No it will not work without a 12V battery in place.

The car as a DC-DC converter and uses the main traction battery to charge this as/when it is needed. The DC-DC converter is 1500W-2500W depending on year and model.

There is a red pull clip in the black housing connector, if you use a small flat head screwdriver to pull outwards, it will release the loop.

Thanks

I think it's just a phrase common in their area.

Most electronics inside still run off 12v. The main battery pack is for propulsion.

The 12 volt runs the electronics that turn on the 400 volt.

It's required by law in many places so the car can always flash hazard lights if in an emergency situation.

not avail in auto stores. but i purchased the same from EVTUNING ant a fair price. the next better one would be from OHM that cost $416

Much easier in the new 3/Y.

@@TJC450 Much harder in the older Model S when it was (in the wheel well?). Honestly, removing and replacing the 12V battery is part of how I picked a body shop after my car got hit while parked in a garage. The first estimate included 4 hours to open up the frunk, open the wheel well, remove and store the battery, condition it, reinstall it, put the wheel well back together, replace the frunk liner, etc. The second estimate didn't include removing the battery. It wasn't necessary, the procedure was for a battery in the wrong place and the labor hours were ridiculously inflated no matter where the battery was. I wasn't paying anything over a $500 deductible, but I don't trust a shop that pads its bills like that. Punchline: The repair cost my insurer 2$7-28,000 for very little visible damage.

@@domenicoperrella3501 That’s ridiculous. Glad they moved the location.

@@TJC450 The battery was located behind the right front wheel well to lower CG of the car.

The only configuration is the cell type of the battery, the latest is carbon nano config, black bottom, red top battery. That is the same configuration as what is going in it which is basically maintenance free led acid battery. No calibrations.

Its run the lights and other things like in a normal car

@@Mehrune yeah, I know that. But why does having a higher power, lithium one make any difference? Other than my door locks will be faster?