Same 😂

Yea, it's pretty rare to blow out a shutter these days. You'll likely upgrade bodies before the shutter goes.

@@DavidBergmanPhoto I got a 7D ii on 85k shots four years ago and I estimate I've put a further 250k on it and its working just fine. (touch wood :) ). If it blows out at some point in the future, I'll salute it for its service and retire it. I have a R6 ii on the way so it kind of makes the &d ii irrelevant since we shoot sports in jpg with no editing and I can use 1.6 x crop mode if I need the extra reach.

​@@stubones​I'm sorry but... I'm just a bit in shock that you're going to use a $3000 camera to shoot untouched jpegs. I just don't see the point of a camera like that if you're not going to shoot RAW and then edit it. I really don't mean to attack you, I'm just baffled.

You will get distorted wings on birds if you use electronic shutter. They will be bent and in weird positions, but you can give it a go and let me know! I also have Canon R7 since 15.5. 2023

R8 is the reason me too looking for shutters !

Yup… my D500 is coming out of storage these days, in spite of having mirrorless Nikon and several Fujis (even the X-H2S). The newest Fuji does beat the use of the D500, but for pretty much any other camera, the D500 is tops, and Nikons ridiculous implementation of autofocus modes in mirrorless (essentially the same limited focus point sizes as in their DSLR), makes the Z6 II the first camera to candidate for being sold off… it delivers zero value over the other cameras, and many more limits on my use

Thanks!

Kinda nice, right?

Glad you enjoyed it

Just be careful not to confuse mechanical 2nd curtain with a completely different thing called rear curtain sync or second curtain sync pertaining to flash. The latter has to do with when a flash fires (as soon as the first curtain has opened or just before the second curtain closes, nothing to do with the topic discussed in the above video).

Yes, he says the EFCS takes the best of 2 worlds, but it seems to me it gets the worst of both: doesn't eliminate banding and flickering, and makes the same noise than the complete mechanical (not true that it's a bit quieter, at least in my Z5).

You can get banding in any shutter mode. It’s severely reduced in mechanical and electronic first curtain, but you still might see it when photographing certain lights.

Nope. Because the exposure is cut off by the closing of the shutter curtain, which is much faster than electronically reading the pixels row by row off the sensor.

@@DavidBergmanPhoto Thanks, that is what I had hoped.

It must be still possible if the swing is fast enough, and big enough in the frame, and it's moving perpendicular to the way the shutter moves. Rolling shutter effects happened long before digital cameras.

@@barneylaurance1865 True, but it's virtually unnoticeable.

I'm a retired corporate photographer and videographer of 31 years. On a hybrid photo/video camera, video is always all-electronic shutter. No matter your still camera shutter settings, the instant you start recording video the camera switches to all-electronic. When you switch back to still-camera mode, most cameras will change the shutter back to the previous used shutter mode, but I did have a camera (don't remember which) that would revert to full-mechanical shutter for stills, so do check the operation of "your camera" before any important project.

Give and take. You can't get 30 fps with mechanical shutter (yet!).

Yes this is true and likely affects all except the top line bodies. It’s beginning to get a bit confusing now; the best shutter mode including the best image bit depth

This is simply because the shutter being closed on a mechanical shutter system gives the sensor a true reference for what absolute black should be in the context of the rest of the sensor data in the frame. An electronic shutter has no reference for black other than artificially truncating data that's dimmer than a certain value, because by definition there is nothing covering the sensor at any point during the exposure itself. Furthermore, some manufacturers have programmed their cameras to shoot with a reduced bit depth in electronic shutter mode in order to speed up the sensor readout speed to compensate for rolling shutter-less bit depth=less dynamic range. But unless that's the case on your specific camera, the difference in DR is really not that significant, we're talking like a third of a stop at the absolute most.

@@CrucibleMediaLabs Thanks for taking the time to type that. I was curious how much dynamic range we lose, because I've never noticed it.

Banding is much worse with the (fully) electronic shutter. Shoot mechanical to reduce it, but it's won't go away at that shutter speed. The only way to eliminate it is to slow down your shutter speed below whatever the lights are pulsing at. In my experience, 1/125 or slower works well. Obviously not practical for every situation, but with a relatively static subject, you can make the change.

Yes - electronic first curtain will minimize rolling shutter issues.

All cameras are a bit different, so you'll need to check your manual.

@@DavidBergmanPhoto canon R5

You might be thinking of front and rear flash curtain sync. Completely different issues. I did a video about that a while ago: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hMyHlpeh1pOqeYE.html

I imagine the tech will only get better and better. But yea, it's relatively new.

HSS flash either needs a constant light source - like a video light, or a flash many times more powerful than the single-flash output you need, in order to avoid this scenario… a regular shoed flash does not cut it for HSS shooting in most cases! Either that, or you need one of the few cameras featuring leaf-shutter; Leica makes at least one, Fuji has the X100 series, and otherwise Hasselblad, where they place the shutter in-lens…

@@mortenthorpe That doesn't track, if the flash is perfectly fine on a mechanical shutter under HSS then I'd lay the blame at the electronic shutter under HSS, not the light source, as that's the only variable changed that's resulting in a problem.

Canon have electronic first curtain as an option on xxD-cameras since 40D, and on the Rebels it's been the only option. Some cameras have had lower bit depth in RAW-files with electronic shutter, but I've never seen that mentioned about electronic first curtain (still a possibility, I don't know everything about all models).

Some cameras drop from 14bit to 12bit raw files. But your milage may vary. Personally, I don't think it's a noticeable issue, but if it's important to you...

To my knowledge rhe only cameras that work in 16 bit are MF

Im upgrading from R currently to an R6ii, but my R has a 400k shutter count on it, and still kicks just fine. And I've used the mechanical shutter about 99% of the time. Luck of the draw? IDK, but theoretically less clicks would seem to help...like putting less miles on a car.

I hope I'm doing videos then too! :)

FWIW, the R6II can be had (now) for about half the price as an R3, and it has EFCS. As with all tech, eventually the "pro" features work their way down to the "non-pro" versions.

If the flash works, then high speed sync should work.

You'd get banding with HSS

Yes the Z9 has the fastest sensor readout… it is stacked bsi sensor, r3 and a1 too using stacked sensor