A thorough demonstration of the complete process of diagnosis. Excellent video! :)

Another Outstanding video and presentation.

Good processor of illumination and thanks for the master class tutorial Steve your videos are an education in its self

You are a great teacher, thanks Steve.

I enjoy your videos. A professional effort. You take a lot of time and effort to explain the system. The layout on the work bench was very creative.

Good work, it even sounds less pinging. Thanks again for taking the time to instruct and go through a step by step process of bench testing individual systems

Thanks for posting. Im always learning from your great information Steve. Thanks a ton.

Really good description of this system. Thanks.

As always, fantastic work! Thank you!

great presentation and explanation

Looking forward to seeing old Rusty. I have learnt so much from your videos. Thank you.

Master! Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge. I'm restoring a MK2 Escort with Crossflow and now fitting an electronic kit from Lucas (AB13) together with the Lumenition Optronic eye in a standard motrocraft distributor. I'm having issues with starting the engine and was looking for some static timing tips...and here I found some useful ones! Thank you very much again. Best Regards

Your video's has been helping me for ages now. Learnt how to rebuild and tune dgas carbs, dcoe carbs, set essex v6 timing and more.

Hello, Sir! Just as unbreakable rule: If I'm not working in my garage shop and I have some free time, I watching Your videos! I aprecciate all of the efforts You spent to make me feel excelent ;)

Brilliant video m. Very comprehensive. !! Thank you.

Excellent, you are very knowledgeable.

Morning Steve. That was a really interesting diagnostics of the old MG ignition fault 👍🏻 Great fix 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

many thanks for this helpful & explanatory video

Thanks for sharing this! I’ve not used their ignition systems before, and was thinking of doing an upgrade over my Pertronix Ignitor II setup.

Very interesting. I too have a mgb 1979 with electronic ignition. It has no pickup on no1 and an erratic pick up on no3 the main difference is I have an accuspark ignition which is not optical. I do not have an oscilloscope so I can only view the spark “optically”. Yours is the first case I have come across where there is no obvious fault. This gives me hope and maybe I am not loosing my mind! Thanks for the video

Thank you! Your videos are great!!

Get a straw an put the straw in the grommet then feed your wires thru works great

Thank you for your excellent video. I think the best way to test the ignition is to measure the length of the spark, using an adjustable spark tester. Amperage draw is a good test, but it only measures the current in the primary winding. If the transistor in the module doesn’t make a clean break or the secondary coil winding has a problem, the spark output will be weak or erratic.

Thank you for the great video that taught me some things. I have a small block Chevy in my pro street car with a Mallory dual point distributor which has nothing wrong with it but think electronic ignition would make it run bit better and cleaner burn. But seeing all the reviews on people having problems with dual point electronic conversion kits from the various brands like Mallory, MSD and Pertronix which all make conversion kits and ignition boxes but I don’t want to get stuck on the side of the road with a module or box that goes out. I did buy a old black Mallory HyFire IV ignition box and matching coil I think if I remember correctly was meant to run with my Mallory dual point dizzy. Car has a dual tunnel ram with two Edelbrock 1405’s and my Mallory dual point is in there tight so can’t throw in a HEI since cap is to big. But Pertronix makes one with an outside module that would fit but then again I have zero confidence in all the electronic brands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Just found your channel, love your videos, keep up the good work : )

Very informative. Thanks much.

Love your work 👍

very good job i have the same problem with my mini 1275cc with electronic 59d4

When trying to find the compression stroke on number one cylinder, rather than removing the valve cover to look at the movement of the valve mechanism, I remove all the plugs apart from number one. When you rotate the crankshaft and feel compression, it has to be number one cylinder. Saves making a mess and the possibility of damaging the gasket.

Good job sir

Thanks for the video

LOVE your trick of wrapping a wire coil around an ignition wire so one can measure secondary voltages with a non-automotive O'scope. i wonder if one can get an accurate secondary voltage measurement using the wire coil's turns ratio and some other calculations...

Great video. You could see it on the scope at the beginning compared to the end, the pulses were all over the place, short, long, etc. With the new they were much more even and strong. You could have spun it up on the bench and put the scope on it with your coils-of-wire pickup and seen if it broke down at higher frequency or something. Perhaps I missed cleaning and gapping the plugs, probably in previous video, I forget.

Mooie video, verrassende uitkomst... Had ik niet verwacht. Ik dacht eerder aan de bougiekabels en verdeelkap. Ik zou denken dat een defecte amplifier module effect op alle cilinders zou hebben, positief of negatief.

too funny, I just returned from picking up a 34mm to find tdc on mine. guess I need to try one of those amp boxes... and as usual you showed us how the pros do it, thank you!

Great video 👍

This is very intresting on how to check them components. Although I personally am not a fan of lumenition (I had and also some friends retired from rallies because of issues with them ) On the Avenger/Sunbeam 1600 uses the same distributer as Mini D4. My preferred system is the 123ignition .NL Electronic Distributer which fits straight in and 2 wires to the coil. It has no centrifugal advance weights but a solid shaft instead. You can select your preffered advance curve by Dip switch or USB depending on model. Also I found if my plugs are too cold they can foul up (black) and the strobe light dont flash properly. My favourite plug for my engine is the NGK Iridium BP6 heat range I never had problems since i used both them. Thank you looking forward to more great viewing.

Makes me want to keep the original points ignition in place. I originally thought the distributor rotor might have been out of phase. Thanks.

you are my teacher from now on :D

Great troubleshooting. Given the ignition order is (1-3-4-2) it looks like the faulty unit was skipping every other firing pulse..

that engine sounds happy again ! Velleman has a cheap transistor ignition kit too, I used it on my beetle in the 80s

top of the day to ya. nice film I watched to the end

Very detailed video, thanks

Fine fault finding. You could probably have seen the fault with the oscilloscope and pickupcoil like before on the output of ignition coil.

Hi Steve, first of all i want to sincerely thank You for another awesome video! If You happen to have one of those modules that are completely broken and can't be rescued, would it be possible to take it apart in order to see the inside of it?

Thank you just subscribed - Regards

Can you discuss run on/dieseling and how to diagnose and resolve the issue? Thanbks

Thankyou Steve, another great tutorial we have. I have a question for you. My mini is running 1275 twin hs2 carb with Lucas 65D electronic distributor. When i set the base timing on 10 degree, the engine start pining when it goes high rpm with loading. Is it because i hv too much vacuum advance? Can i adjust the vacuum advance on 65D to avoid pining and at the same te keep running 10 degree base timing? I've been struggle in this problem for a while. Right now just run with 6 degree base timing but the engine temperatrue is a bit high. Thankyou.

Great diagnosis. I also have a 1950cc engine fitted with Lumination ignition I’m not sure about changing it, but in an earlier video you had priced to buy a 123 unit is this still your plan for the future?

I haven't tried my cleand up webers yet (waiting for misab parts to remount them), but now I'm already questioning if I should take a closer look at my old MSD 6AL box too haha Another great vid. Did you ever finish up the DCOE rebuild series? I can't find anything after mounting them to the manifold.

I would have put one channel of the oscilloscope on the optic sensor output, and the other channel on the ignition coil primary side (hundreds of volts, set probes correctly and make sure the scope can handle the voltage!). This would show much of what you say you don't test, the dynamics of the "box" - you see exactly what input the box gets from the sensor, as well as what the box sends out to the coil. You also see all the sparks in the primary side voltage, so you can compare their peak voltage and duration - if all cylinders are working under the same conditions they should be reasonably close to the same, while a faulty plug, lead or cylinder running way rich, lean or different compression should stick out like a sore thumb.

Enjoyable 👍

I m thinking of losing my pts and condenser on my TR6 for electric ignit. I watched Steve Denton's install of a lumenition elect. ignition on his tr6. He didn't utilize a amplifier. Any idea why your system uses it? Great explanations. thx

123 ignition make great programmable distributors which might better suit your tuned engine?

Hi thank you for your video, it baffles me how the optocoupler knows that that it is firing on cylinders 2 and 3 ? the scope sowed no difference between cylinders . I have had a similar problem that the timing light would not flash on some cylinders , i changed the spark plugs and querd the problem. It turns out that the engine was too rich and socking in the plug incinerators and not letting the ht voltage to get high enough the set off the strobe light.

Do they make a magneto type ignition for your application? They are trouble free for all the vehicles I have ever owned.

I'm not a big fan of Lumenition and optical detection ... I used several times Pertronix, with no issue, but now they are far more expensive than before ! then, for Lucas distributors, I used twice Accuspark (UK company), that use hall effect detection, and that's cheap and fine ! no CDI though, but it allows to get rid of points...

Best place to find the ignition amplifier? Cant locate it. Perhaps a part #? Thanks

My lumenition kit has a slight play on the cutter once installed beneath the rotor. Around 5mm play. Could you confirm this could be an issue at some point?

Great video! Now I'm going to test my Lumenition set I have laying around and which I couldn't get to operate... Where did you find the affordable new Lumenition set?

"As you can see there's always something that can go wrong (...) If you think it's only in your case that things go wrong, sometimes well I can assure you it happens with me as well." Im just waiting 'till something goes right.

making a RF coil to the CRO

Check your rotor button, replaced entire electronic system, nought wrong with it!!! Twas the rotor button,would run fine but stop for no reason,restart fine but stop a short time later. New button all fixed,albeit I had now had two electronic systems both worked perfectly!!! Mal in au.

Steve please explain why you run your race engine without air filters ? Dave Vizard ( source his book on A series modification ) found that air filtration , properly sized and designed for the carb of choice , did not effect the maximum power and kept dirt , of which a race track has plenty due to soft tyres , out allowing less engine damage . DV tested Webers with filter boxes with rams which I bet you know about . The only advantage of running with no filter is the sound of the air rushing through the carbs , which is nice , but .....

Hi. Heeft u de verdeleras met een bepaalde reden 180gr. gemonteerd ten opzichte van de fabrieks specs?

to confirm that the module is the real culprit, I'd replace, at first, the module, Something say to me that a defective module will repeat randomly the trouble on all the cylinders not only on #2 and #3

I fitted accuspark complete system to my Essex V6...now nothing works..any ideas

Great video. I'm struggling to see why a fault with the amplifier would affect 2 cylinders and not the other two though - surely it should be getting exactly the same trigger signal for all 4 (the shutter disk is symmetrical), and then it's driving the same single coil. Is it just that the output was weak for all 4, and two of the plugs happened to have different gaps, soot, lead resistance or whatever, and the low output was just enough to make 2 spark, and just not enough to make the other two spark?

look up MGB 1800 Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Lucas 43D4 & 45D4 Distributors you don't need a ignition module. one less part to brake down

Steve, why not just fit standard distributor breaker points? They work fine and have done so for 100 years. Even is you choose to replace them every 2 years that's a lot less dicking around that this science project and replacement expense that you just went thru.

Any time I see plugs with a screw terminal cap I start here. NKGs or Densos.

Do you have any experience with Lumenition Magnetronic or Pertronix Ignitor? Heard that the Pertronix is very reliable.

the IR sensors get weak with sending a square wave pules over time heat and stuff or the driver box is weak

How.mutch...cost. india

No fan of optical ignitions my choice Msd and Mag trigger timing computer optional😊

👍

Time to go fast on the track…….

Ignition trouble with a MGB? Really? I remember multiple episodes of total loss of ignition while driving at 70 mph. That's right, driving along with no problem and then... nothing. I got to know the wrecker driver and heard all about his kids in my multiple tows to the dealer.

electronic distributors are a waste of time i use points and a condenser as the electronic ones can be of poor quality.