JJ kind of blew our minds here.. what do you all think? thumbs up if you think SVA should start a KZfaq channel 🤘

Last time I did bare shaft tuning I ended up paying child support

In my experience, broadheads can appear to fly pretty well even when bare shafts are not flying well. But every time I get a bare shaft to fly perfect, the broadheads also fly perfect. So IMO a bare shaft shows the flaws in your tune better than just broadhead tuning. I don't like paper tuning because I don't feel like I'm shooting the same shot when I'm not aiming and trying to hit something. I bare shaft tune then verify with broadheads.

Every bow shop owner I've talked to about this says the same thing, in the same arrogant I-know-better-than-anyone way and it's wrong, plain and simple. Ranch Fairy said it best - "the proof is in the penetration" - you get a bareshaft arrow to shoot perfectly straight, your broadhead flight will be all the better for it. You know he's wrong when he says "the whole purpose of what we're trying to do is get your broadhead and field point to hit in the same spot. Why does it matter where your shaft goes at that point?" That's target archery, where penetration doesn't matter. In bow hunting, if your broadhead hits the right spot, but your arrow is flying sideways, you aren't getting much penetration and you'll end up injuring and losing an animal or spend hours tracking it on a minimal blood trail. You'll be scratching your head wondering what the hell went wrong - "But it hit perfectly!"

I had two out of a dozen arrows shooting consistently low. Flip them over and they shoot high. They spin true. Cut the fletching off, bare shaft tuned at 15 yards and they now hit center using the same broad head. It appears to me that it might matter.

Dan, I’ve watched endless vids on several of these topics. JJ is a one stop shop. Got ‘er done in under 14 minutes. Exactly the info I’ve needed all wrapped up without any fluff or bs. Thanks for taking the time to get this together and posted, much appreciated!

From my experiences and I’m shooting traditional so it is a little bit different. But bareshaft tuning is to try to get the arrows to fly as near perfect as possible before adding the rudder on the back. The fletching steers the arrow more than the broadhead because of basic physics. Unless you have more weight at the tail end of your arrow which nobody does. After I group my bareshafts with my fletched shafts and have a good straight arrow in the target ill shoot my broadhead and if my aim is true then 9.9 times out of 10 my broad heads hit right with my field points.

Ranch Fairy. That’s all I’m going to say.

Bare shaft tuning started in traditional archery It will also tell you the spine of your arrow before even putting a broad head on if your arrows improperly spined with the field point it's still not gonna work with broadhead there are a programs to give you a dood idea on spine of your arrows bare shaft helps verify that

Interesting vid, not that I disagree with all of that but I never, ever move my rest off center-shot. If it’s not in tune make the appropriate bow adjustment, top hat or yoke twist. I personally shoot Victory VAPs which mark their spine BUT I still verify every single bare shaft by shooting through paper. The reason is simple, not all bows like the spine in the same spot, for instance my RX-1 likes the spine at the 9 o’clock position and my SR6 likes it directly on top at 12 o’clock. So I bareshaft/nock tune to ensure my arrows are all built the same. It takes me maybe 15 minutes to do a dozen BUT my bows are always in tune because my garage is basically a bow shop and I own all of the necessary equipment. If you truly wanna be a good archer, build your own arrows, tune your own bows! You’ll learn a lot! I’ve never had a (only only shoot 2, Exodux and Slick Trick) broadhead not shoot like my fieldtips.

Bare shaft tuning matters because it’s the lowest common denominator, and it will determine the angle at target impact. The angle can be different even if both tips are hitting the same point. Why is this important? 1) if you’re arrows are impacting on axis (centreline of the arrow) you will protect your arrow and broad heads, reducing wear on the edge and or likelihood of breaking equipment when impacting bone. 2) if the arrows are impacting on axis, the broad head will cut symmetrically as it’s designed, which will increase penetration and therefore lethality of the shot which all hunters should aspire to. 3) whether it’s tangible or not, the arrow that flies straight will be flying faster, as it will not experience as much energy loss at release and in flight. Furthermore, you tune for perfect conditions. In the outdoors, variables such as wind etc will amplify any fine tuning issues 4) fletchings were used back in the day BECAUSE arrow rests, plungers etc etc didn’t exist. They were necessary to counteract the aerodynamic forces imparted by the broad heads. Now we understand that, we can use fletchings (in acknowledgment of FOC) to refine flight rather than macro correct it.

Good info. I think the point of bare shaft tuning is that it helps tune the bow correctly without potentially losing or damaging expensive broadheads.

I agree. Put a wrap on the shaft or shoot feathers to negate FOC differences so you can learn a LOT from shooting bare shafts. Learn what? How straight your arrows want to fly off the bow, which directly reflects how close broadheads and field points will impact.

After watching 20 videos on tuning your bow… this is by far the best video. MFJJ is spot on with whatever he is saying. So easy to follow along. Thanks guys

I gave up paper tuning with a fletched arrow a looonnggg time ago. As mentioned, I just compensate for the loss of weight due to the vanes not being there. I do it because a bareshaft doesn't lie. Ever. That just lets me focus on my centershot and yoke (provided you have one). I've had zero problems in achieving bullet holes out to 8-10 yards (doing it in the basement). JJ is 200% correct. All your tuning is for naught if you don't pay HUGE attention to the shaft-insert-broadhead fit. If it doesn't spin like a top with no wobble ..... forget it. And even then it's not an absolute guarantee. Many do not realize, your $1,500 bow is being defeated by a $0.20 insert because it wasn't tapped straight. I've wound up making each hunting arrow.......and I will go through 20-30 inserts to find the right arrow/broadhead match.....and THEN glue it up. BTW a really tight fitting $0.10 nock can be just as damaging.....learned that one the hard way. Results? The worst year I had was broadheads were hitting 1" left of field points at 30 yards. Most years there is no neglible difference between the two. Great knowledge being shared in the video, kudos!

I agree a bareshaft and broadhead will impact in the same or very similar spot. One great reason not to ignore the bareshaft, they don't eat up expensive targets like fixed blades do. Do 99% of the work with a bareshaft then double check with a fixed blade to save $$$

You guys should check out The Ranch Fairy KZfaq channel. He has some great videos on the subject of bare shaft tuning.

For what its worth I have been in this stuff for a bit and there is a lot of good perspectives and suggestion here. If you are looking for be negative you will find it. Thank you for taking the time to post this video it will help many people have a better understanding of what steps they can take to make thing the best they can be.

Interesting video. One of the most importent things is said @ the end of the video. Unless you are a shooting machine, execute every shot sequence multiple times with the same arrows. So verifying differences between the arrows before making adjustments to your setup. Otherwise you will be chasing ghost.

Great video Josh ! I've been shooting bows for 53 years and never stop learning or teaching.

The biggest reason I still bareshaft tune is that from my testing, once my bows(this is with multiple bows from different manufacturers) are bareshaft tuned, I have more options for fixed blades that I can just screw on and more often than not, that head will fly. On top of that, you have your rest movements backward, you always chase your broadhead/bareshaft with the rest. Meaning, if your broadhead is left of field points, move the rest to the left.

Is that broadhead tuning rest adjustment correct? BH impacts right move rest left? I believe when a bh tipped arrow comes of the bow nock left it will point the bh in the opposite direction, to the right. Where the fixed blade “wings” will catch air and they will plane in that direction. Moving your rest to the right (to the bh) will correct the nock left bow exit causing the bh to fly straighter, impacting with your FP. Coincidentally those are the same adjustments for bare shaft tuning. Hmm. The rest adjustment is not one of those things where it depends on the person or the bow. ‘Whatever works for you’ does not apply. It’s physics and it’s consistent.

I’d never let this guy touch my bow.. knows very little about tuning Christ.. left and right reactions are not weak or stiff reactions. It means your power stroke is not lined up. Yoke tune or adjust shims/spacers. The rest should never move off of perfect centershot.

I first stated with getting my F.O.C between 12-19%. Then I insert tune with a broadhead, then bare shaft each arrow/nock tune. After that it dont matter what fixed blade or what distance. My broadheads hit where my field points do. Also got ride of the Microdiameter arrows. As long as the arrow is less that 5% of the diameter of the broadhead feral. Anything less than that doesn't have any more penetration.

This is the way I've been tuning for more than 20 years hasn't let me down yet. Can't believe the comments are so positive with all the people that throw a big hoopla about bare shaft tuning. I've watched friends of mine just kicking themselves trying to bare shaft tune and scratching their heads and getting ticked off during the process. Then I step up and tune my way and they just get even more mad as I'm laughing. Great info here. Josh would kill it if he had his own KZfaq channel. Would probably irritate a few just from being real.

So true JJ. I start with my bow which is true @ 58 pounds. My results tell me I'm getting good arrow flight but need to turn my 65 lb. bow up about 5 lbs. I shoot bare shafts with a field point to give me my nock tuning spine. I mark the top of the nock with a sharpie. Then I fletch, usually 6 out of 12 so I can proceed & focus w/o having the burden of having to do it with 12 shafts which tends to take the fun out of it. Usually the papertune goes very fast so I walk back & shoot these 6 arrows @ 20 & 30 yards. Then b4 I mount broadheads on them I shoot the field points from above onto 3D targets. The last round I use the target as a backstop so I can shoot twigs hanging down between my position in the 🌳 & the target. I'm shooting a 20% FOC so it actually helps with another step in the process which comes in handy in a hunting scenario. Then I shoot broadheads into my new SEVR targets which r very handy also during the bareshaft process.

I’ve always thought the bare shaft was BS. Seems tuning the bow to bullet holes with the center shot within manufacturers spec, then making sure the Broadhead was spinning perfectly, was all that was needed to get broadheads to fly with field points out to about 60-70 yards. GREAT info in here about the relation of spine to left and right hits as well as the cam timing and nock point. Very well done.

This video just blew my mind I’m gonna have to watch a few more times to remember all this archery school work session thank you gentlemen

Like the video guys! There are more ways than one to kill elk 😉. I agree with almost everything stated except the left/right issues due to spine. Yes, you can change your poundage and make the arrow hit left or right, but, you can also change that impact by moving your cam lean. This is made extremely easy with Elite’s SET technology. Also, bareshaft tuning is HUGE for getting more than one arrow to impact the same at distance. If short range is your game then there is no need to bare shaft tune each arrow. But for ultimate accuracy (and yes I am a hunter and a target shooter that shoots long range) bare shaft tuning each arrow is extremely important to have a complete quiver full of arrows that impact equally. But there is no doubt you are laying down some good info! Great job!

Thank you so much that was a lot of help. I have been going to the bow shops in my city asking why my broadheads are shooting lower and no one could give me a straight answer, I finally came across your video adjusted my rest and I'm now within half of an inch of each other thank you so much

Would never let this guy touch my bow! Bareshaft tuning is the only way to guarantee results.

This is incorrect information. He has his left and rights confused. If bareshaft or broadhead POI is left of field points; you move your rest to the left. You always move your field points to the broadheads, not the opposite. The reason for this is because the broadheads surface area causing planing, what a broadhead hitting left means is your getting a nock right tear and your broadheads surface area is causing left impact. To fix a nock right tear what do you do? You move your rest opposite, so left. Please don't spread misinformation, there is enough wrong information out there already.

This argument seems flawed. Of course the tail of the arrow will follow the broadhead. But by not shooting bullet holes, your efficiency plummets. Fletched or not, arrows not flying in a straight line are not efficient. Fletchings are for correcting small human errors. Not correcting the banana flight tendencies of your non-tuned arrow.

Probably some of the Best tuning tips I've ever heard! Man he is a Archery Encyclopedia!! He definitely needs a KZfaq channel!! Awesome Intel, Keep up the great work guys!! O yea I 4got to mention too that out of all my years of being a bow tech I've never once had to Bareshaft to tune an Arrow!!

There are many ways to tune a bow. If you get a bare shaft to hit with s fletched, you will be very close when you screw that fixed broad head on. You are recommending shooting fletched thru paper to get it close, both methods require actually shooting broad heads at long distance. Some broad heads will also hit exactly in the same place, others might need a very small tweek to get them perfect. You have not discovered anything new, all experienced tuners know this. The real problem with bare shaft tuning is it takes an experienced archer with very good form, where a fixed head with generous fletching is more forgiving than a bare shaft. As for the weight on the back, you will find that a bare shaft without the fletching weight will hit 1/4" to 3/8" above the fletched, it actually has more to do with drag than weight. You do not need to waste time shooting through paper, it is the beginning step that some people use, but a good hole with a fletched arrow means that you are close, but the fletches are correcting the flight before it goes through paper masking exactly what is going on. I have found that spine consistency from arrow to arrow should be corrected by clocking all your arrows (bare shafts) prior to fletching for maximum accuracy. So, there is a lot of good reasons to shoot bare shafts. Another one that I use every day is to practice with bare shafts to work on consistent form. When you can shoot a 300 with bare shafts, your form is good. You may use any method you like, but you are doing a disservice to archers telling then that there are no good reasons to shoot bare shafts.

Yes they should have there own channel and yeah that's awesome I like seeing the break down and it helps me eliminate things from my own process and make it simpler

Loved this info. As a newer bow hunter I didn't realize all that goes into an arrow and tuning. Thanks for the video!

I've just bought a new bunch of shafts and was thinking about the daunting task of nock tuning them all (I have never did it before). Not now!! Awesome vid, makes so much sence. Keep them coming! And yes SVA should def start a no bullshit KZfaq channel!

Seriously going to watch this again. The knowledge is incredible.

Awesome knowledge. Helps to confirm logic of what is going on when setting up bow/arrows and how to fix / confirm what is the fix.

All I’m going to say is Ranch Fairy, Ashby bow hunting foundation, check it out. If it doesn’t make you question your current opinion then you weren’t paying attention.

I tried it and if you want to ruin your arrows, by all means do it. Not worth it. Have a good day.

I'm impressed with the sheer volume of keyboard archery professionals weighing in on your video JJ. Maybe they should open their own bow shops and do the testing with literally hundreds of bows each year since (I think you said your were a shop rat at age 12?) they were old enough to work... like you and many other professionals operating shops... For the guys tagging RF Troy in the comments, my dad was an actual NASA engineer and we did the kE, momentum, some dynamics, front-of-center, energy loss over time and distance, etc tests 25 years ago that RF is doing now, and I've continued to do those tests since on an annual basis.

I agree with you. However, I bareshaft tune so I don’t destroy my foam target as fast. When the bareshaft and field points are together, the broadheads will hit there too.

It’s not about where they hit, it’s the quality of the flight that counts. If the broadheads and field points are hitting the same spot but flying like crap then it’s not right.

so instead of bareshaft tuning (with a field point), you should just do all the same things but shooting a broadhead? I enjoyed doing the bareshaft tuning, and it helped me figure out I was torquing my bow, which I got fixed. The big plus for me, is that I know the arrows are coming off the bow properly, and are entering the target (or animal) as efficiently as possible. But then again, I'm also shooting adult arrows and single bevels, so what do I know?

Ya, he said it himself “broadheads fly where bareshafts go” stick with bareshaft tuning it WILL work! If you are getting inconsistent results go back to the bareshaft or you have a bad arrow or broadhead. Shoot the best flying arrows and critters.

So much juice, will have to see it again. Thanks Dan and Josh.

I love your videos but this was a deal breaker. Bare shaft tuning makes your fletching work less which makes you more accurate. Why would you want to sacrifice accuracy or worse make you viewers think that “ elk shape don’t bare shaft tune so I don’t need to” lost me on this one brother. For the people here that don’t know any better, cut your fletching off one arrow and shoot it through paper at 5 yards, how big is that tear, that’s your arrow loosing Momentum because of drag. Dr Ed Ashby all I have to say

Well dang that made a ton of sense.

Just shot my broadheads yesterday and was getting a consistent 2" broadhead right. Definitely thought i would be over spined shooting 75 lbs 27"dl. Easton Axis 260 with 210 grain up front and 580 grain taw. Carbon to carbon its 28". I guess im going to have to shorten them up to see if it tightens up any since from what he said i was under spined. AWESOME VIDEO!

Move the field point toward the broadhead, not broadhead toward field point.

He literally just explains bare shaft tuning in different terms but talks about the same stuff you do bare shaft tuning? It seems to me what he is talking about and trying to accomplish is the same thing that bare shaft tuning does. You want your broad heads and field points to hit the same spot. Not sure what he’s trying to disprove. Literally, all the things he’s talking about is relevant and bare shaft tuning does the same thing. You guys have good context but I don’t understand why this guy has such a personal animosity towards bare shaft tuning. Did the ranch fairy touch you in your no no spot or something?

How is it physically possible to have a "too stiff of a spine arrow" Being a engineer this isn't possible. Aerospace measurements and simple physics will not acute for that. Now,if we was in the traditional world were the flex was important to bend around the riser, its needed. I was a scientific reason on this please

the thing i never got about trying to get them both to hit the same spot is that if you change one thing on your bow it should have an effect that is equal to both the broadhead and the field point. you might get them to align for a few yards, but eventually they will be off. i only worry about 20 to 30 yards. trying to figure this out to get out past 50 but then there is always the question about form.

WE GOT 15k!!!!!!!!!!! Heck yeah!!!!! Great job guys!!!

Best tunning video ive watched. And ive seen plenty. Will share this for sure. Thanks great job. And thorough

I'm with a lot of guys in this thread. I rarely paper tune anymore but always bareshaft tune. With that said I never shoot bare shafts through paper either. You immediately can tell if your spine is weak or stiff, rest is high or low, etc. Rarely more than a few micro adjustments as long as the bow was set up properly and your spine is on. Yeah, I still finalize this at distance with broadheads but again, rarely make more than a few micro adjustments.

I thought you want to move the rest to the opposite direction when broadhead tuning. For example if the broadhead hits left, that means your rest is left relative to the string, causing the arrow to plane left. So, you'd move the rest to the right a bit and try again.

I like the points he made but my man reason to bare shaft tune is to get close with broad heads without tearing up my target as much.

So, if a bare shaft tuned arrow hit the same place when they are “straight”, it would seem that bare shaft tuning would at the very least, would be a great first step before finishing with broadheads.

Best common sense tuning video out there, great job.

That's the method I figured out on my own years ago, it works great. I'm kind of surprised how many people are arguing for bare shaft tuning anyways, that time is probably better spent shooting your bow and staying in elk shape...

Relevant is his favorite word.

I wish we could get a confirmation of which way JJ said to move the rest. I know in the vid he says towards the fp. I'm hoping he just mis spoke?

“I thought you had something creative” lol 😂

I do not disagree with most of what he says, but the question "what does it matter where the shaft goes after impact" really caught me off guard. I'm just an amateur bow hunter, but "where the shaft" after impact is a tremendous aspect to all this. The point of impact is only part of the story, esp in the heavy-FOC approach. The primary concept being missed here is *penetration." Right?

That was great info to share!! SVA definitely needs a channel

Most archery "pro shops" rely heavily upon target shooters punching a paper target down range and they've invested large amounts of resources into the most common arrow set ups for selling to the masses, and not having to have a large inventory with the variety necessary to accommodate the diverse needs of archers. Recently there has been a surge in hunters discovering the importance of getting the most kinetic energy down range to be able to get the most penetration on a large game animal. One of the many steps that needs to be taken is to ensure that your arrow flies straight without fetching or feathers, so that the fletch doesn't compensate for a poorly tuned flight. The fletching should compliment the flight, keeping the shaft spinning and not fighting the arrow and pulling kinetic energy from it helps to keep the most energy at the tip of the arrow, where it counts. Time to diversify your shop and stop going after the quick sales with the least amount of inventory. Look to meet the individual needs of your customers, including the physics of what exactly they'll need for whatever their application is, on an individual basis. Then you'll be a true "Pro" shop.

Paper tuning bareshaft and with fletching is important because fletchings mask imperfect arrow flight. Your field point and your broadhead and can hit the same and both come in crooked screwing up penatration.

Glad I watched this I’ve been losing my mind trying to bareshaft tune I’ve given up. Constant nock low tear no matter what. I’ve had a hell of a time trying to tune my VXR 28 and this damn thing will not tune. I’ve tried everything spent countless hours in the shop. Just going to fletch all my arrows and broadhead tune. If I can’t get this thing to tune going to gravel tune this damn bow.

Perfect! Awesome video. This is exactly the stuff needed to get dialed in this September.

I just wrap the back end with electric tape to match the weight, then bareshaft tune out to 40 then broad head tune.

Thanks for this video, this is pure gold for a beginner like myself, love that you're helping others to learn

I wish I found this video before my deer season began last week!!!

wrong JJ! it always matters where my shaft goes! otherwise great video

In my case I broke a fletch with the field point and the biggest separation was 1/4” higher. I used Annihilator 100 grain broadheads. Edit: Congrats on 15K guys 👍🏻

the ranch fairy would have a hay day with the guy

I had this same question today. Someone sent me this video. After spending so much time with bareshaft tuning I realized I still had to tune my broadheads. Although Bh tuning wasn’t as tedious. Still I wondered why bare shaft if my end goal is the broad head which I’m still going to tune. I had my cousin shooting his Bh and I made adjustments to group them with his field points. Then I had him shoot a bs and that impacted perfectly. So now I honestly feel bs is a waste of time. Now I do like bs shooting mainly to get my nock in the best position before I fletch them. So either way I’ll probably still keep doing it.

Ty for keeping the tech talk real and very understandable! As mentioned previous, the "Ranch Fairy" has some interesting info. His "Adult Arrow" concept works for certain applications, like pigs or whitetails hunted from a treestand where you will most likely get a chance to range the deer/pig. Elk hUK nting from the ground is an entirely dofferent scenario and as s such, flat trajectory of arrows becomes really important, thus "Adult arrows" are not best usdd in the Elk application. As humans, we all want a "fix all" or "works best 4 everything" solution, but in reality, individual solutions snd applications work best for each individual scenario. For where Dan n Josh n I are from, the "Western" style of archery hunting is the norm. Thus, a flat shooting, hard hitting arrow os what I want. IF I somehow mis guess yardage by 5 yards, I want my arrows inside an acceptable grouping so it is still a kill shot, not a sounding shot. Finding the balance is what is most important to me so Im consistently I'm n the kill zone! Thx Elk shape guys and "MFJJ"- (M.F. stands for Master Fletcher) I think....... or was it "Mandingo Fantastico"? I cant remember- regardless that MoFo knows his Archery stuff and is ALWAYS Awesome to work with.

Great video Dan and MFJJ! This one is a keeper!

Awesome info. So many " hunter?" have no clue as to what you are explaining. Especially the ones that buy Walmart arrows at whatever length and then screw on heads and call it good. I would hopeevery new bow hunter could see this and other arrow instruction videos. 👍👍

use a bare shaft when you paper tune. When I get a perfect bullet hole in the paper. I noticed my bow is faster and quieter. Then you go out and sight it in on a Target with a fletched arrow.

Awesome video, you really no your stuff! I would like to say though. I agree you dont necessarily need to bareshaft tune. As you said bareshafts will typically hit where broadheads would go. But you didnt account for the fact that braodheads tear the crap out of your targets. That is why i bareshaft/nock tune. Then when im all done with a set of arrows i just shoot each one with a broadhead and ive never had an issue. Just a though. Keep the videos coming always look forward to the ones with josh in them

so jacked for the giveaway

I always thought the purpose of bare shaft tuning was to find the stiff side of the shaft on all of your arrows

Great info, but I disagree about bare shaft tuning being irrelevant. If it is irrelevant then so is paper tuning because it shows the same thing! And it can be changed by adjusting cam lean, rest left and right, rest height etc. I want to know my bow and my arrow is tuned.

Agree agree agree but, I’m knew and always learning. This a a great straight forward informative video. Thanks

78 ways to skin a cat Power stroke must run directly down the exact center of the shaft with no deviation regardless how you get there. I’d rather bareshaft tune first then check broad head flight. I can shoot 100’s of bareshaft arrows into a target with minimal damage and cost.

I dont use fixed blade broadheads. I use a lead weight in the back to mimic the weight of the fletxhings down to .1 of a grain. Then i bareshaft tune and it works every single time.

This was very detailed and Josh covered a ton. What're your thoughts on nock tuning and French tuning? It seems like you'd still want to nock tune those fliers that won't quite group.

Damn this video is underrated, best informational video! Keep up the great work.

Thanks for all the great videos and insight!

I like the method you use, seems quick easy and effective. I think some of the comments may be confusing this as a nock or arrow tuning video. Do you guys mess with nock tuning your arrows at all?

Curious as to when to accept the grouping. With all of the variables like grip, facial pressure, etc.. what would you say is an acceptable grouping distance? 1/2" @ 20 yards? Of course making sure you shoot multiple groups to ensure the same groups.

cant wait to build my own arrows. gonna be interesting for my first time lol

Hell yes SVA should start a KZfaq channel, even if it’s just filming bow setups or shop life.

The relevant point is that I don’t want to buy a bunch of BH targets, so I BS tune with a normal target then confirm with as little shots as possible on a BH target. However if I was rich I’d definitely just shoot BHs.

LIKE PAPER TUNING WOULD YOU CLEAN UP THE VERTICAL....THEN ADDRESS THE LATERAL...OR?

Wow! Awesome stuff. Really appreciate the in-depth on broad head tuning!