Thanks Gregory!

Thanks Mary!

Thank you!

@@disasterprepper Any ETA on the new book?

@@johnbauman4005 Hi John, I have three books planned in the near term: the advanced EMP topics book, the Watchman 2, and a survivalist-style book set after a planetary pole reversal. Unfortunately, all are still a ways from being completed.

there will soon be an emp hit on all of america due to china attempting to get more land they found two ships already

You're most welcome.

You're most welcome.

You're most welcome.

Thanks Gary for your support.

I might actually feel comfortable enough to pull out my Titan and use it to run a couple A/Cs this summer during peak daytime.Generally it was bought for emergency back up but what a waste to have it just sitting in a EMP bag! With couple broadband ferrites on PV wires,another on my battery wires& a trap in the DC circuits I'm almost there.1 more DC trap and a couple A/C traps and my Titan will LIVE😊

@@scarygary3569 Definitely good to use it. If nothing else, it will help you assess the unit's capabilities (if you haven't already).

Yes actually all of last summer I did many tests and long term runs with low&high loads but only had 500watts of panels.This summer I've got 1000watts with another 1000 yet to be mounted&installed.Worked out most of the bugs&questions,now it's time to recoup some expenses from the purchase👍

@@scarygary3569 Excellent!

I wish it was my doing. It's an art wiring a breaker panel for sure!

Mine too...the electrician had to mount my surge protector on the outside of the box...lol

@@paulroberts6094 I was lucky that there was room inside my box, but many people prefer them to be external so that the lights are visible.

i might be wrong but it might be talking about using the vehicles ground which is the metal frame of the car which should absorb quite a bit of energy

Hi John, the cloth provides quite a bit of benefit even in elevated structure, such as an apartment building. The reason is that the bulk of the energy is coming from above, and the cloth will act as a reflector and absorber for RF energy. It's not quite as good as on a concrete floor, but still very helpful. As for the T.R.A.P.s, I really think it's worth putting one in the cigarette plug and one in the AC socket if both exist on the generator. That helps to protect both the input and output sides of the inverter. If the system is connected to panels, then yes, broadband ferrites on the power cord are also recommended. If it's unplugged, there's not need, although it certainly won't hurt.

Thanks!

@@disasterprepper Anytime :)

Sorry, I try not to comment on other company's products.

The large broadband ferrites will definitely help. The fuses are too slow to be of much help, but they certainly don't hurt anything, and they do offer protection from other events (such as short circuits).

@@disasterprepper It's an off grid system, Is there anything else I can do to protect my investment?

@@RealWorldReport A set of whole-house ferrites either at the inverter output or where the solar feeds into the house breaker panel is a good idea. Also, if you have battery storage, putting a set of high-sat car ferrites on the main battery wires is helpful.

@@disasterprepper In regards to "putting a set of high-sat car ferrites on the main battery wires" you're referring to both the positive and negative? Do you have a coupon code for use on your site?

@@RealWorldReport Yes, one on the positive and one on the negative. Make sure they'll fit though. They are 0.7" inner diameter, and they need to close around the wire. We have a coupon code for anyone providing service to others (military, police, nurses, doctors, clergy, teachers, etc.). It is service2021 and gives 10% off.

If the battery is disconnected, then your travel trailer should be ok.

Hi Mike, while some people just put larger ferrites at the combiner boxes, I personally think that also putting small broadband ferrites on the wires feeding into and out of each microinverters is a very good protective step. As you said, you really don't want to lose them. Depending on the size of your system, it might require quite a few broadband ferrites, but the smaller ones aren't terribly expensive, considering the importance of the system. If putting ferrites outdoors, you might also tape them closed with some good weatherproof tape. That helps to keep the sun, rain, snow, etc. from weathering the plastic housings over time.

I recommend placing them on the individual appliance cords, rather than the surge protector power cord. You can do both, of course, but of the two, I think placing ferrites as close to the item being protected as possible is best.

The panel is probably fine. I'd personally either wrap the generator in foil or stuff it in a large EMP bag.

If it's a simple generator without any kind of complex electronic control or display and it's not plugged into the wall, then it's very unlikely to be damaged. Some people cover them with conductive cloth for added protection, but generators like that are not very susceptible. If it uses a trickle charger, try to keep it unplugged when not charging, and put a broadband ferrite on the charging cord.

Wonder why lead paint was banned....

I talk about this in a video. You need to introduce a precisely controlled gap.

I'd put the surge protection device at the breaker box, assuming that's where your high-sat ferrites are at. They work well together when in close proximity. Broadband ferrites up by the panels are also recommended.

@@disasterprepper Thank you so much, and such a quick response.

Hi Donald, I personally have a TRAP-B across my battery and a TRAP in my cigarette lighter receptacle. I'm a big fan of multi-point protection. As for the generator, the TRAP in the cigarette lighter port is helpful to reduce transients, but I'd really want a TRAP-AC in one of the AC receptacles.

It's possible that an EMP would indeed damage the battery monitoring systems (BMS) within the batteries. You can add high-saturation ferrites on the main battery power wires and TRAP-Bs across the batteries to help reduce transients felt at the batteries. It's a trade between better performing batteries and increased risk. Personally, I think if you take the precautions, the risk is worth it.

I looked into this some time ago. The shielding depends a lot on the type of soil, but you have to go pretty deep to get good protection. In most cases, it wasn't practical. I plan to generate a table for my next book that summarizes my analysis, but I'll try to do a video on it too.

@@disasterprepper thank you

It could be used for this purpose for localized transient suppression.

@@disasterprepper Thank you

Hi Allen, I'm sure it would provide some shielding. It's hard to say for sure how much without testing, but best guess is 10-20 dB. That's way better than nothing, but probably not what I'd call EMP-proof.

Yes, that would do very well to protect it.

The last time I tested a mylar blanket it didn't do so well. The test is on my channel.

Hi Kevin, I'm not sure which boxes you are referring to. If you'd like to see what we have to offer in terms of EMP protection (home, car, generator, etc.), please go to disasterpreparer.com.

People certainly do this. The only issue is deciding what to store. Also, the costs of some automotive parts, such as computers could be very costly. Each car would have different susceptibilities, so it's not really possible to come up with a generic list of parts to store.

@@disasterprepper that makes sense, thank you for the reply! It would be low on my prep list but may be worth mulling over.

that was my question …. so your devices dont blow but if power companies are blown then your out of power indefinitely anyway.

Most people who prepare for these kinds of events have things like generators or solar power. If all your devices are destroyed that are plugged into the grid, then a generator won't do a lot of good.

I agree with you.

What is a cme?

@@thegreatestislove8604 CME stands for coronal mass ejection. It's a big blob of charged plasma that gets ejected from the sun.

@@disasterprepper thanks

Aluminum foil does a good job blocking high-frequency RF fields, but not fields from 60 Hz power.

@@disasterprepper thanks again cheers

Yes, I'd like an answer to that question also.

I would say protect the home first with a good surge protection device and whole-house ferrites. Then store small items in Faraday bags.

@@disasterprepper Thanks! (KZfaq is weird. I didn’t get a notification for the response. Sorry!)

I have a video on youtube of me testing a shipping container. They do offer shielding, but it's kind of modest. I know of some folks who paid special attention to the doors by using conductive gasketing, and they create a really well-shielded structure.

The surge protector won't keep your lights on for sure. It's purpose is to prevent damage to your electronics so that you can take advantage of brief stints when power might come up. Also, it allows you to hook up backup power (i.e., solar and generators).

@@disasterprepper BTW...My questions were addressed further on in the video.Thanks for all you do to help keep us safe and informed.

@@paulroberts6094 You're most welcome.

This is a complicated question because SPDs (like the FS140) will protect from multiple E1/E2s, but they won't survive an E3. So, you'd need to open the breaker before the E3 pulse grew too large to damage the SPD.

Hi Dave, CMEs and EMPs have some similarities and some differences. On the plus side, small-scale electronics that aren't plugged in won't be affected by a CME. On the minus side, anything plugged in will perhaps be damaged, which is why surge protection becomes so important.

If you could seal up all the seams to make it a fully conductive box, it should work okay.

@@disasterprepper thank you for your reply. My thought was to add exterior toughness, bullet resistance, to the formula. I hope that doesn't include underneath the vehicle.

Yes, they are tied together at the panel for safety, but on many homes they are routed into the home on separate wires. That means that currents can flow into that junction from either of the two wires. If your home only has a single shared neutral/ground (like my home), you only need three high-saturation ferrites (L1, L2, N/G).

Hi CB, I developed the T.R.A.P.s and tested them in the lab as well as on my own car. Here's a video showing how they work. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gJ6PY5SmmNzUXYE.html Let me know if you have questions, as I'm all about full disclosure of anything I sell.

Thank you for that, I’ll take a look!

@@disasterprepper Watched the video, you Sir are a god among men. I have been following by you for a few years, but not as closely as I should have. Love your work.

@@cb253 Too kind, thank you.

Didn’t you offer a whole home trap in the past? I thought I remembered a product like that.

Wondering the same! Were you able to find out? We have disconnected our battery from our travel trailer. Is that good enough or do we need an emp sheild?

@@rochellecrystalline6438 @empdoctor never answered

Okay.. I am on a mission to figure this out today. I will let you know if I figure it out!

@@rochellecrystalline6438 that would be amazing. Thank You!

Forgot to mention the wiring installation for the vehicles was only three wires out of a single product that looks similar to your surge protector in your breaker box. one to positive battery post. one to negative battery post. and one to frame.

Sorry, but I try not to talk about other company's products. Also, while dragging a metal cable behind a car would indeed ground the vehicle, it wouldn't provide any EMP protection (perhaps from lightning, but not an EMP). That's just a bit of internet folklore. Sorry, I wish it were true!

@@WhatDoYouConsume I would imagine if he thought it was good he would be using it . He said he tested many surge protectors and settled on seimens as the best in his opion . Had the same question about emp shield . Been on the fence for a couple years I cant believe there is not a video of someone tearing one apart they are filled with epoxy which would make it hard makes me skeptical but I hope they work for everyone that has them .

The appropriate mil specs are MIL-188-125-1/2 and MIL-461/RS105. The short answer is that no, they have not been tested to them. I'm hoping to do so, but it's complicated by the fact that the T.R.A.P.s are protective devices. It's easy (albeit expensive) to simply show that the devices survive - no doubt in my mind that they will. The tricky part is that what you really want to know is if they protect the item they are plugged into. To do that, you'd need to set up a test of say 10 identical items that were first shown to be EMP susceptible, and then plug in the devices and show that they now survive. That's a big undertaking, and even then, you've only demonstrated it on one particular electronic item (perhaps a generator or car). Each generator or car is different, so showing one doesn't necessarily prove full protection for another. I will say that I think testing would be very helpful, but actually doing it in a meaningful way is rather complicated. With all that said, I have reached out to three different EMP test facilities to get quotes on running tests.

@@disasterprepper Thanks for the quick response. I'm an EE and retired AF engineer who dealt with one of the specs (188) a hundred years ago. :-) I understand the testing challenge; however, I just stumbled across a competitor's product that claims to have made some inroads. Are you familiar with EMP Shield? Their website claims DoD approval and listing in DHS's EMP Resilience Report (2019). I'd be interested in your opinion of their product and what, if anything, their testing and approval means. Thx

Good to meet a fellow EE. Yes, I'm familiar with other products on the market, but I try never to comment on them.

@@disasterprepper Appreciate the quick feedback and the info provided via your videos and books. I'll continue to pursue my due diligence before investing. Until IT happens, none of us can know for certain if any proposed solution can affect the outcome, as there are so many variables. Prudent investigation and research is the best we can do before putting our chips on the table. Peace...

@@afmustang3421 100% agree. Thanks for your comments.

I haven't looked at this in much detail, but I would think it's very much like protecting a standby generator. You'd want to put ferrites on the power wires out at the turbine and another one where the power feeds back into the home. If there are control electronics out at the turbine, you'd probably need to consider protecting that as well. If you send me an email, I can try to help (arthur@disasterpreparer.com).

@@disasterprepper Really appreciate the inputs sir, your content is very resourceful, keep it coming.

Ferrites are made of different materials to offer protection over different frequency bands. The ones I sell are broadband, meaning that they offer protection across a very wide frequency range. I chose those because an EMP has energy from relatively low to quite high frequencies. I don't know what material the ones on your laptop has, but it's likely for lower frequencies. You can buy ferrites really cheap, but often you don't know what the frequency responses are.

OK, that helps. So would your wideband ferrites most likely cover most or part of the frequency any cheap ferrites cover? I didn't think about the fact they could cover certain frequencies, which is helpful for ham radio. Thanks!

@@Devin82m It would depend on the particular ferrite you bought. Some offer lower frequency suppression, some very high. The broadband ferrites offer protection from perhaps1 MHz to 1 GHz and above. Frequencies lower than a 1 MHz won't couple into short cables very well, so ferrites used in lower regions like that are more for power supply design.

You bet. Just reach out to me, and we'll set it up.

That would be a great show!