This is where the advantages of extruded aluminum and standardized design are going to start to shine.

This is exactly what "open source" hardware was meant for. Very nice video.

Should be called a Ext-Ender kit =)

You are the best. I bought the extender kit but followed your instructions exclusively rather than theirs. You just make it simple and quite frankly, fun. Now, I'm going to offer you some advice on cutting glass. Its the exact opposite of what you'd expect...stop being so gentle. With glass, you need to just get at it and don't be afraid of it. Make "ONE" firm score with your glass cutter.....not 2, not 3, JUST ONE! , slide the glass to an edge and snap it. That's it. As long as you can see your score mark you are good to go.

It's brilliant that you do reviews like this and your feedback goes back to the manufacturer for fine tuning.

It is awesome that he reviews the kit and comes up with some improvements that the supplier quickly implements. Shows the respect this reviewer is afforded! Well done!

Absolutely great video, Mike. I assembled my Ender 3 Pro last week and I learned a lot in the process. I didn't experience any issues of note. I really like that an upgrade kit for increasing the build volume is available for this product. As you said near the end of the video, this is a great value for the money compared to larger "base" printers above the Ender 3/Pro that cost noticeably more. I will be ordering this upgrade for my printer. Your video hit all the right emphasis on assembly for the new unit. I'll have to ensure I print the new parts for the Y-axis motor and belt-tension. Please continue creating this content for 3D printer enthusiasts like myself.

I don't even own an Ender 3 and I still watched the whole video

Great Video Michael. I have the 300x300x400 kit and love it. I chose to go this route instead of just getting a bigger printer because I had already invested in a Direct Drive, Micro Swiss Hotend and SKR e3 mini. I'm super happy with it. Thanks Mark!

Great idea and if your only 179 into your ender 3 like me... $318 total investment is going to get you that give you a sizable build volume and the luxury of not having to leave the ENDER community for support!

And here I thought I had finally finished upgrading my Ender 3 Pro.... Damnit! LOL

The trick to flawlessly cut glass is to score and then break from one end of the score. Intuitively, most people try to break make the break by applying even pressure along the score line using a fulcrum or hanging it off a tables edge. This seldom works. You can still hang one edge off a table but make sure the break starts from one end of the score. A glass snapper, the notched part of the cutter, or padded pliers set to one side of the score line and a deliberate snap is all it takes.

This is the kit I have been waiting for. I don't need the extra height but the width and depth are a huge improvement.

I was wondering when someone was going to do this. Aluminum extrusion design lends itself to easier frame expansion. Now, we can all print our InMoov robot parts faster overall with multiple part arrangement... ;-) You could also plan ahead, buy the original Ender-3 DIY kit, and the Extender kit, and put it all together at assembly (minimal disassembly/re-assembly).

So happy you reviewed this... Mark makes the most awesome kits...I love mine!

Had this idea when I got my Ender 3. Glad someone went and sourced the parts for me.

Man I love that you’re the first channel that comes up when I search anything 3D printing related. Originally stumbled on you from your S13 airbox video when I was looking at options for my STI

When cutting glass, wet the cutter with a light oil like paraffin, white spirit, or WD40 (so it wets the glass). For some reason it makes a big difference to your success rate.

The Kay3D CoreXY printer conversion kit is a great product! Looking forward to the review.

So I have the 400XL version and as a printer newbie as far as the modding and tech side, I had very few issues...and basically all were my fault. I have been printing with this for a couple of months and the only thing I will say of note is I have fried two SKR miniE3. I theorize it's because it's moving the large bed and mirror and is over heating. So I have changed the cooling and on next print I will change the bed speed to 300 like you said. Otherwise, this mod is awesome. Mark and the fellow Facebook group members are extremely helpfu and nice. I only wish there was a 500x500x500 option!

Awesome! I just snagged an Ender 3 Pro on sale for $183 USD shipped to replace my well used Tevo and have been looking at these kits. Great concise video.

Since I got 2 mk3's my ender 3 is just catching dust for the last couple of months. This is a great solution to make my ender 3 useful again!

Love the video now I am thinking about getting one of these kits.

awesome video.. Mark should add this to his page

I bought a CR 10 S5 for $400 off ebay before all the tarrifs, sure a BLtouch is a must to work on such a large volume. Sure my heatbed is only 300x300, but its 500x500 is great for my PLA prints. If you are looking at this upgrade you should just get a 2nd printer.

Thanks a ton for this, was going to pull the plug but think I will wait and see what the KAY3D offers before I decide...;) Stay safe my friend!

I'm sure someone else has also commented it but you have to use specific wires for the thermistor. Every time there's a change in the metal, it creates a voltage (think very basic, weak battery) that affects your readings. It might be possible to tune for that change but it does make a difference

I think this was a great idea! An awesome video too, I've watched all of your videos dealing with the Ender 3 pro. I'm very happy with mine and will most likely get the extender kit soon.

I completed this build after watching this. It do like the kit. Now the extender is one of my most used machines. Along with the larger build volume, I also added other mods to better print PETG, other abrasives and flex. Nice! Thanks for this.

This video is very timely! I've been considering getting another machine with a larger build volume, but this appears to be the best bang for the buck. Another benefit is, it involves more tinkering! Thanks for the video, Michael!

I think the price is very reasonable, I was sort of expecting the price to be quite a bit more. Even if you got the biggest kit, that puts the price with the Ender 3 at about $400. That is a big print space for a pretty cheap price. Cant wait to see you convert it to a core xy.

I have a Bob’s E3 CNC machine that allows for a similar type of upgrade path to their larger E4 model. It is simply brilliant and creates a desirable upgrade path should the need arise. I like that Creality has done the same thing here, so that you don’t have to learn a whole new ecosystem. Great instructional!

Thank you. Already hit the print limit of the printer and need to go bigger but did not want to have multiple printers.

Hi, to be able to cut grass perfectly, you need to do exactly two things: 1. Make a SINGLE cut with the cutting tool; 2. While holding the smaller part with our hand on the opposite edge from the cut made and without the rest of support, type with the small hammer from the bottom of the cut in several different places.

Standard mirrors are second surface devices meaning the flat surface is actually the back of the mirror as that the is the surface that is in contact with the molten salt... Great video as usual... Keep them coming...

Aw come on, I just finished an Ikea Lack enclosure for my normal Ender 3...but now I want the thicc Ender 3.

You can buy the aluminum extrusions on eBay for a fraction of the price and drill the holes in yourself. I made my ender 3 1.2m tall for £46

What an exciting upgrade option! I should receive my Ender 3-P in about two weeks. I'm excited to get started, but was bummed that the print area seemed DOOMED to be just a bit small for my liking. Now I have new hope!

Am in Australia; bought directly from their website during Cyber Monday sale (40% off and free international shipping) and it was shipped free of charge by DHL (took 3 days from USA to Oz, typical of DHL). Super easy, excellent value (couldn't have DIY'd this for much less, excluding the time sink it would have been). Nice.

I bought this based on your review. I installed it about 8 months ago. Works 👍 great on upgrading the ender pro. I added microswiss DD all metal hotend combo, BL touch and recently whambam PEX ...and use it mainly for PETG and flex 💪 Thx! with the larger nozzles it makes some nice large usable parts.

I've been looking at these kits, might get one now. Love ur vids

thank you for detailed explanation ! I was looking for it this week. Good job keep going.

Quick tip to deal with making a glass bed for the bed. I scored two 400x400 picture frames for $40aud. After abit of disassembly, presto a super thin glass sheets that fit perfect and a spare which as we all know will be needed later. Got it from catch if any Aussies are intrigued

I was so very tempted to get this! Thank you for te review.

Step one take apart 3D printer. Done.... step 6.. buying second 3D printer to print needed parts. Thanks for the ironing out the process

As always great video! This is exactly the type of modification I was looking for without having to buy a new printer.

That ender 3 upgrade look beautiful. Great video!

Ordered this kit I'm excited to receive it and start putting it together.

Great video! Very helpful! Just got the 400xl for my Ender3 pro. Looking forward to getting it swapped over in the next couple of weeks. 400x400x500 is going to be quite a dramatic difference from the stock setup! Can’t wait!

Fantastic videos you have truly helped me so much going from my first design to a wonderful print

I found it better to tension both Z v-roller sides individually before bolting them them to the x-axis assembly. That way they are unloaded from any weight or torque applied to them. Square the x axis to the screw side rail, remove from the z rail and tighten the two bolts. then install the other set of rollers loosely to the x rail, reinstall the x axis assembly on the rails and tighten the two bolts.

will have to do this one for sure!!! 1000 thumbs up

OUTSTANDING Great Kit and great demo. I really like the idea and think this is great to help the used Ender market too. Thank You, need a kit for my CR 10s Pro to MAX!

Kit shown comes in at £187 in the UK including shipping and import duties (~$372 Australian). Not cheap. I'll wait to see the corex-y version

Just a tip on cutting glass or mirror. Never cut dry. It will always shatter off line.Always use a lubricant like paraffin.

Very nice upgrade! Thanks for detailing all the steps. Too bad the original heatbed won’t heat up the entire plate properly. Looking forward to your CoreXY upgrade vid!

Fantastic! Now I have to buy it and make a video for my channel, absolutly!Thanks for this video!

converting to core xy is much more interesting for me. waiting it thanx.

Loved the video, you can easily see that you are a teacher, from another teacher

instead of deep sockets you can use a 'go through' socket set. Incredibly useful for long bolts or threaded rod.

Next time you try cutting glass or a mirror score your glass then run lighter fluid along the score mark then lift and drop in the table edge to break your score. The lighter fluid helps with weakening the score mark making it easier to break.

I like the idea of "Upgrade KIts" to bring new features/functionality to older printers.

this is actually quite a cool upgrade for the ender 3 and would probably pick up myself if i had a need for it. for now, my ender does ok for what i need it to do which is mostly just smaller projects. i'll keep this in mind if ever feel like i need to upgrade.

Great Video. Good kit if you have an Ender 3 gathering dust or picked one up for a bargain and use this kit to stretch it - it will still need additional parts as outlined by others below. I Would not recommend it as a way to build a 400 x 400 printer - you'd be better off buying a new or used 400 x 400 to start considering the added costs to equal one (larger bed heater, dual axis, glass bed, etc). You'll also have to print slower with a glass bed and larger bed heater if you add it - that is a lot of mass to move back and forth.

Really cool but to be fair I have the Ender 3 Max and having only one Z axis rod across such a wide machine causes the X gantry to sag. This requires precise Z axis roller adjustment but it also tend to get them "stuck" at certain heights causing bulging layer lines(similar to elephants feet) where the gantry had trouble rolling up smoothly. Getting a dual Z motor setup is definitely worth it in my eyes.

I wish I had known about this last month when I put linear rails on mine, I got the 400mm rails so I can upgrade as needed, I also put a dual Y rail for support.

I've got one on the way that will be here tomorrow!

I was sad to see this since I just sorta did this myself to build a second printer from all my spare ender parts. this kit seemed like a great deal until I saw it just reused the heated bed and carriage. thats bad because the rest of that kit besides the alum plate you can do yourself for less than half that price. The bed and carriage plate are the expensive parts(about 60usd) of building a cr10. I got all the pre cut extrusions for a CR10 clone for 30 dollars, 5m GT2 belts for 9, the 4 metal X gantry plates for 17 dollars (banggood) that support dual Z motors, and if you are just upgrading a ender you have those gantry plates already. seems like only a deal if you dont have amazon prime and have to do a bunch of orders for all those parts. hell I bought two 1 meter lengths of 2040 extrusion for 12.50usd so that I could expand it further or build a 3rd machine.. this kit is for the lazy or countries without access to amazon.

Damn, I just installed a linear rail kit. Maybe with some longer rails I can use this kit.

I would have brought this over the copymaster 400 that I am having to replace the mainboard on because it lacks separate filament cooling. This makes a lot more sense.

Well, I guess I don't need to go buy that CR-10 anymore! Thanks for showing us this kit.

This is a upgrade I'll be be doin for sure with the upgraded motherboard

Omg this is what I been waiting for. I was in the market for a new 3d printer

Can’t wait to se the core xy one

I would rather see a ender 5 turned into a core X Y.

i like this, i'm actually wishing to see more corexy kits and or builds.

Great video and another mod to think about as well as all the others. Not sure I agree about not soldering the wires, if it gets hot enough to melt the solder joint then you printer is already on fire or the joint goes open circuit and stops the fire from starting.

turning your ender 3 into an ender 5, very nice

Thank you Michael for very informative video. For you DIYers. Kit worth it if you include cost of labor for cutting, drilling, tapping, the extras and other finish work. Kit: $149 - $159. However expect delays in order. I am doing my Geeetech A10M which has a very similar chassis, but different enough that if I did order this kit it would have to be modified anyway. Maybe do my Ender 3 Pro if I need 2 large printers? I Also have chop saw and drill press, however could be done with hand tools as length of extrusions not critical as long as you make sure assembly of frame is square. The 400 x 400 bed fits close to the vertical rails, but it works. Cost for raw materials $116 rounded up. US Dollars for all, as I am in USA. From AliExpress: Add $34.50 For 400 x 400mm A/C mains silicon heat pad and From Amazon: $11 for SSR relay. Details for using these on the small Y axis carriage yet to be worked out. For Chassis. From Amazon: $7 for wiring extensions. $27 2040 V rail extrusions 600mm, had to buy 2 so have 1 extra. Will need to be shortened after I figure Y axis travel. $30 2020 V rail extrusions 500mm, package of 4, cut off 15mm from 3 of them. $8 6mm Timing belt 10meters long. From: www.xometry.com/supplies/materials $22.66 400 x 400mm aluminum sheet for build plate. Add an additional $11.19 shipping to my USA address. May be more for other addresses. $10 400 x 400mm double strength window glass $15 if I wanted mirror. Local glass shop. 3D printed new case for control board. I may try skipping the 400 x 400mm Aluminum Build Plate and attach the Glass with heat pad directly to the smaller original plate with high temp silicon. Have fun, its what its all about. Don't complain about the work, if you think it's too much buy the kit.

I would never use a printer without the upgraded screw belt tensioner. I stock tensioner just does not allow me to tighten the belt enough and I keep getting layer shifts. I have found that most layer shifts is do to the belt either x or y being slightly to loose. I being able to dial in the belt tension is a MUST. This is a MUST have upgrade to any printer.

I thought that because the x axis was so long it would hang on the right side, but I see that it is not, it is a good modification, and it has its certain advantages, but if you are going to spend money, it could be 40x40x50

Love the way it looks and been wanting a bigger printer and the cost is cheaper than the bigger CR-10's.

Im interested in the Ender 3 core xy conversion kit video.

Your videos are awesome. Just finished doing a bunch of upgrades to my Ender 3 and was wondering if anything else could be done. Now I have a new vision....bigger 400 x 400 x 400. Thanks for the excellent detail, really helps to understand what to expect.

interesting. now we need a new rear electronics enclosure ;)

Great stuff Michael. I have an original Ender 3 in a box ready for installation, this give me ideas. Cheers, JAYTEE

16:34. Never thought of hairspray thx 🙏

It screams for a dual z.. Wouldn't that be interesting?

It should be mentioned that if possible the frame should be assembled on a totally flat surface such as a granite/stone counter top. This would create the best chances of having the frame alignment go smoothly.

That was awesome; vary good review. I'm already looking to get an Ender 3, and now this review seals the deal. "Thanks dud" or what ever your name is?

@Teaching Tech Awesome Job as usual Michael!

This... this is what i want! Im gonna keep it standard size for a bit but i want to print big!! 😂 400m³ would be AMAZING and after that is done i wanna tackle a voron build i think...

Been saying this a long time convert your existing printers make them bigger for a few bucks more, Great video !

looking forward to this being back in stock

And just when I thought I had finally finished upgrading!

Wow, great extension Thanks for sharing this interesting project :-)

Looking forward to the corexy conversion

Hi Michael, I was curious if using the stock heated bed works well as a permanent solution for printing. I've been considering this kit for a while now, but the thought of connecting an AC heated bed myself has put me off of it a bit (for reference I am a 16 year old without much experience doing any electrical work). I saw in this video how you opted to use the stock heated bed itself, but the Ender Extender website says that using the stock heated bed is "less than desirable". In any case, I was curious if you've had any issues with only using the stock bed or if it would be fine for me to use it in the event I purchase the kit. Thanks

Vaz mode. LOL love the language. Keek up the good work. Love the videos.

It is easy to cut glass first you need a good quality glass cutter second step you need oil. add the oil in the place you will need to cut ,next use your cutter to cut a line next add a little preacher the glass will cut in two pieces