Thank you!

Glad it helped you!

mines set at-2.6. Not sure if they are all different though and I'm brand new at this. Only done 3 prints so far lol

The heat break should touch the nozzle.

Exact same problem did you ever find a fix I just keep clogging I have to the nozzle all the way off to get it unclogged and I think my tube can’t go deep enough either

@ragcrafter yeah I solved the problem, the root cause was a bad manufactured part (metal tube that's inside the cooling block and the pfte tube gets inserted into). One thing I forgot to mention is that before I removed the ptfe the first time after the problems began I marked the edge with a permanent marker so I know from fact that the ptfe tube never was in deeper than a few cms at best from factory. It's a miracle the printer worked so long to begin with. Bad manufacturing, bad assembly, bad QC I guess, the whole program. When I looked down into the hole of the metal tube the pfte tube gets inserted into it was clear the ptfe tube couldn't pass, over 1-2 mm of height where the metal was deformed inside so that the passthrough diameter was reduced about 2cm in, so ptfe tube couldn't pass (100% sure it wasn't old ptfe tube remains), so I drilled slowly into it using a drill bit that was just the diameter of the metal tube, making sure I just drill that deep and not damage the threads for the nozzle, metal shred came out, then the ptfe tube ofc could pass, and the printer worked fine from there. That said, I didn't wanna leave it like this on the long run, cannot be good nor that safe so I ordered a new Creality Ender 3 v2 Neo Hotend set and replaced the whole thing, had to open electronics spot to connect the new wires and pull those wires through the sheats as well as removing the old ones obviously and ofc, the replacement part I got didn't have that problem and from the get go the pfte tube could pass all the way through. Honestly I'm still gutted about it, cause you know how it is, how many people have the time, motivation and energy to send the whole thing back after 30 to 40 prints, even if it's only a few weeks old, stuff gonna have signs of usage and you never know what customer support clusterf*** you could end up with on top of all you already had to endure so far. It's a fine machine but probably just one or a few random slackers that worked in the factory that day or a series of tough luck in manufacturing, I guess... That all said, I can confirm the ptfe tube has to go through all the way to the nozzle and it's been printing like that np for twice as much as before the problem started so I guess this is the way! If you do that I'd recommend to use the opportunity to also swap the stock ptfe by capricorn tube, takes more heat and better quality.

@@stevefpv4669 How did you fix the problem?

Legit some problem here, had a tube blockage and now I see that the tube won't go all the way through, it stops about 2cms in and will not budge. Not keen on drilling it out but likely going to need to buy a thinner tubing or something, if the tube really is supposed to reach all the way to the nozzle this is a pretty huge oversight! :-(

I guess you know the same way I know! 😅

@@IslandUsurper Likewise.

I had to replace the Mainboard because of this.....The power shorted out and I tried replacing the surface mount fuse and just ended up making it worse. Luckily boards are cheap. Not cheap enough but not a deal breaker.

I learned the hard way to ensure to keep the cover well out of the way of the hot end when it's still hot...luckily it only melted the clips a little bit!

I don't use Capricorn tubing for this and other reasons, you will get better results with standard PTFE tubing (check my website for recommended brand link.)

Could also be a broken wire that the connection breaks at a certain height. Before you mess with the board or anything else just try replacing the fan.

No, that sounds like you need to tune your PID settings that control temperature. Check this video out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/frOlZa2mz5vTaWg.htmlsi=4X28MChjhBJw90XD

Nope, you have screws that have come loose. All of those items should be rock solid.

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that's what i was thinking. I have the exact same printer you're showing here. I've misplaced the allen wrenches that came with it. do you know what size i need to remove that screw from the hot end fan shroud?

@@SleuthFilms sorry, I don't.

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that’s cool. I just went to the store and bought a set of them.

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it was a 2 mm. the same wrench worked to tighten the two loose screws on the inside. you were right they were definitely loose. I just put it the shroud back on and about to do a test print. fingers crossed this was what was causing the layer shift.

Did you find a solution?

Your hot end needs to be hot for this.

Could be filled with filament stuck in the hole, I’m pretty sure I’ve the same issue with my printer 😢 I’m here to see if I can solved it

got this issue rn , huge blockage i think

The Ender-2 V2 Neo will get as good as the 2 Pro

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Is that a new printer coming? Cant find it on their website.

Or did you mean Ender 3 v2 neo?

@@KjellEilertsen sorry, I meant the Ender-3 V2 Neo

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors So that will produce as fine minis as the Ender-2 Pro? Thats good news if so! Are you planning on making a video on that specifically? :)

It works just fine, I just tried it.

PC4-M10 is what you need for the hot end. PC4-M6s are usually used for the extruder, but they switched that to the plastic insert so there is no threading.

@Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors ah OK that explains my problem. I got a Neo off a friend who had been having trouble with it, and she was just ready to move on from the printer. The main issue is that it looks like she at some point, had pulled out the plastic insert, from the extruder. I didn't realize it was a fully different build, so I'll just have to replace the extruder, but that's no big issue. Thanks for the help!

@@PotterThroughTheAges you will be happier with a replaced extruder that uses the M6 coupler, much easier to get replacement couplers (and cheaper).

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Is there an extruder you recommend for the v2 Neo that will work with the M6 couplers?

@@pacdude11 this is the one I added to my Neo (I loathe the stock coupler!) amzn.to/3Mlke5B

Not for gaming terrain and minis.

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Unbelievable....

@@VolkanTaninmis show me a direct drive setup that can print minis with the same (or better) quality as these: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n6uUdremsJ2-h2Q.html

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I do not need to show you anything. It is so clear that, there is an uncontrollable pressure between extruder and nozzle in bowden setups. Even with linear advance. you are printing so slow with thin layers. It is impossible to understand your resistance to new steps in 3d printing. Also: No brunt bowden, no clogs and ability to print almost all materials.

@@VolkanTaninmis show me 28mm minis printed with your suggested setup. I show printed proof of my setup/settings, now you do the same.