You get a ton of printer for the money with that SE model which is why I recommend that for first time owner. Glad to hear you're having a good experience.

Thing averse? Do they hate things over there?

@@DatHondaBoi223 dam smell check.

Nice! I only noticed after testing that the filament they sent is the hyper filament. I plan on doing some strength testing in the future on the hyper speed stuff and see how it compares to the standard PLA+.

That right there got my subscription!

It's a good one.

Happy New Year to you as well. I predict 2024 is going to be interesting to say the least.

@@deuceandguns I think the same.

My printers just live on the floor

The solution of table wobbling is not slinging the bed. Even Creality selling those printers roughly for the same price like this. I hope it will stays like this way, because now the garbage is more expensive than a proper printer.😊

Did you try flashing the firmware to a new version or a community firmware on the ender 2 pro? If that doesn't help the thermistor might be dead, they are only a few dollars for a pack of 5, if the heater cartridge is dead they are also really cheap, around the same price as the thermistors. If the board itself is bad thyen running klipper probably won't help if the sensors aren't sensing anything. Also you may already be aware but in case you aren't the A1 is having a recall because of faulty bed cables, being mains powered beds this is a serious issue. It's a pity because I was seriously looking into getting one. I think the P1S is what I will go for though as I do print a lot of ABS, nylon and other materials that need an enclosure.

@@Smokinjoewhite thanks Joe! I believe I messed up the board by splicing thermistor cables and fried the port on the board (lesson learned). I love my A1, it squirts incredible quality prints (almost factory looking). I am aware of the bed cable issue and have opted to have Bambu sent me a replacement bed for my A1.

@@tedh7543 Ahh yes I have done similar things in the past, hopefully you haven't fried anything that prevents octoprint or klipper from working, if so a replacement board isn't too expensive to get the printer up and running again, they are great little printers. Good to hear you got the replacement bed on the way because other than that I have heard nothing but good things about the A1. Happy printing!

@@Smokinjoewhite I'm pretty sure I fried the board. The good news is I have two working printers. I printed a bed cable support and installed it on my A1 at the interface area of concern so I believe this will mitigate any issues with the cable at least until Bambu sends me the new hot bed.

Yep, pla+ because up until this video I was limited to what the original Ender 3 could work with. Working with asa was one of the reasons I got the KE model.

@@deuceandguns I have my original ender 3 in an enclosure and bought an all metal heat break and it is my dedicated ABS/ASA/nylon printer now. I have newer more advanced printers now but that old ender 3 just doesn't skip a beat. I did replace the bed springs with silicone spacers though, it holds level really well and rarely needs adjusting.

Typically beef or chicken

Bambu is the way to go unless you plan on printing alot of nylon. My qidi xmax 3 prints nylon gf like it was pla. Huge fan of both printers but the qidi can produce much stronger components.

Prusa has better quality control but you pay for it. It's up to you if the extra money is worth a near guaranteed plug and play experience.

@@deuceandguns yea, hence why I’m debating it or a Bambu Labs X1-carbon or P1S when it comes to market. I get it’s a hobby, but stuff’s frustrating when you spend all this money and have to fix their own mistakes/issues

Switch the view to advanced or all under slicing settings.

It'll print the PLA wood filament just fine. I've used both this one as well as my old Ender 3 to print wood pistol grips. Wood PLA clogs easy so keep it very dry, print it hot, and you also may need a larger printer nozzle such as a 0.5mm or 0.6mm.

@@deuceandguns thanks a lot! Sometimes marketing can be confusing as they show what one can print on model x and not on model y...

Still like it. The extra speed is nice but the quality of the auto leveling feature is game changing.

@@deuceandguns That's good to hear, I'm looking to get my first printer and I'm thinking this might be it and auto leveling is one of my must haves, only because I know I'd stuff it up lol

If I hadn't had 3 years of experience with Enders already I'd have been very tempted by that a1. It's a good printer.

Are you pre-heating the bed?

I'm ok with it because that was printed at 500mm/s which you're supposed to only use hyper pla vs. the cheapest esun I had laying around. After a bit of tuning all prints after that have been at 300mm/s with pla+ and are super clean. If I needed perfect out of the box I'd paid for perfect out of the box.

Both are very good but the Ender 3 v3 ke has better auto bed leveling.

The Creality slicer has a preset for the ke model ready to go.

As far as I understand, don’t you have to change anything? At the time of sending to print?

Orcaslicer (based on prusaslicer) released version 1.9.0 and has a profile for the new v3 enders. Its what I am vurrently using and works like magic

@@josegregoriodiazatenzo4566 Using the Creality slicer that I downloaded from Creality.com I simply chose the preloaded model V3 KE and clicked to add Tree support I may have also tweaked the temp settings. I also don't connect the printer to wifi so it's usb only for me. Eventually, the Prusa slicer will be updated to offer the V3 KE as a preset in the config wizard but till then I'm rocking the Creality and it's not bad.

@@deuceandguns Thank you friend. The problem is that it's failing me with the filament not sticking to the base is somewhat frustrating. I've heated it to 60 fahrenheit and put 3D printer glue on it and it still fails.

Printed at 500mm/s using pla that's not rated for 500mm/s with zero tuning. Anything other than spaghetti is a win especially for a $250 printer.