And it's a universal mill with literally 7 different linear and rotary manual axes, so just doesn't have the... "rigibility" to use only carbide.

I agree with you wholeheartedly. HSS has been around forever and precedes carbide by probably 50 years. Carbide is great on tool steel or stainless steel parts but for mild low carbon steel HSS is more than adequate especially if you use a good coolant system since heat is what kills any mill tool.

Facts.

If your machine isn't clapped out, carbide can be more economical than hss in the long run. You also have the option of not using coolant at all with carbide. I actually climb with carbide on my Bridgeport for finish cuts. It can be done.

@@professorjim6874 "rigibility" I gotta keep that one. At first I laughed at him, but it's grown on me. My 47 Horse Tractor has great rigibility. try to move that boulder, the rigibility will amaze you. The pastor has a character of momentous rigibility.

Ong. I don't even know what a depth mike is lmao

If you really want to learn, and get some extremely high quality information, tips and techniques, I suggest searching for and checking out the channel of Joe Pieczynski ...your welcome.

55 Years for me using HSS.

Don't know if you're being sarcastic or not but you definitely can cut mild steel with hss end mills. Just run slower and use oil.

Same position, dude, hopefully youre makin it!

Yes I dunno where this guy got this.

I have had bad luck with HSS in steel

Some shops will fire you for using carbide on unhardened steel lol.

Yeah, we use HSS mills almost exclusively to cut aluminum, Hot rolled and cold rolled steel, etc without many issues. Then again my company provides unlimited end mills, so if we bust one, we have access to more.

How much do you value your time?

I actually climb cut on anything, from the clapped out minimill at work and a equally clapped out 40 taper knee mill, to the brand spanking new 50 taper big boy box way horizontal universal manual mill (with a universal huron head attachment, a +-45° table, a universal angle rotary/dividing/differential indexing/helical milling head-tailstock attachment along the dreams of finding the elusive vertical slotting head attachment...universal af in general) and the VMC of course. On manual machines I can do some pretty fine work on steel with quality HSS-E tools, but when it comes to VMC work (even if it's just a one off prototype/jig/fixture/mold/die/stamp) I cringe whenever I as much as touch an HSS tool that isn't a tap or a countersink (not a chamfering tool though) on the bench

@@Sketch1994 Im pretty new to machining, maybe 6 months or so running a VF2 doing job shop work and i just noticed that ive never had problems neccasarily climb cutting when cleaning up stock, on ABS it seems to make a big difference or else it will be very hairy, also i find it confusing how its called conventional milling vs just calling it climb cutting vs, well not climb cutting?

@@carsonp.7009 Technically it's upmilling and downmilling

@@Sketch1994 the more you know

zeus book. Little pocket book full of machining information

HAHAHAHAHAHA Rigibility

He said it more than once

@@professorjim6874 Say it with me "RIGIBILITY"

He is a dipshit

@@Raul28153 hi we are a manufacturer of cutting tools is ther any requirement kindly contact me

Awesome! We will be re making and enhancing videos covering more. Hope our channel helped you out!

The smaller cutter you can spin a bit faster and keeping chip load the same if you can will give a little more feed ability

If the machine is ball screw clim cutting is the way to go and all cnc machines are ball screw. Some manual machines are just screw and nuts and it has lots of backlash, so it’s better to use conventional.

Depends on the machine, with old machines which has a lot of slop in each axis, conventional, because it won't pull the part on the end mill If the machine isn't a half dead one, and can do movements without slop, then climb Climb cut has an advantage because the edges on the tool won't rub on the piece, increasing tool life, and if I'm right it needs less power from the spindle as well, but it needs a rigid machine, otherwise the tool will destroy itself

I just retired from 40 years in the shop. Imho there are not any firm rules as there are a bunch of variables to consider. As one poster mentioned yes, climb cutting can be difficult and even disastrous on a machine with a large amount of backlash. Climb cut will often give the better surface finish. One thing I have done on a loose machine is to remove bulk material cutting conventional and if a climb cut is desired tighten the table lock slightly on the axis you are cutting on to help the cutter not grab the work. Its worth it to take some time and adjust as much backlash as you can out of your machine. In machining experience is golden so get in there and do it. Be prepared to pop a few cutters but that is how it goes.

Conventional mill on a manual if you’re taking any type of meaningful cut. Climb cut at your peril!

Really need more info but in short, if hand cranking, then it really comes down to feel with experience. If you have / are using a power feed, then you can get really close with a stopwatch / timer and adjust the power feed speed till you get what you want, then make your cut(s)... Just take your desired feed, then divide it by 6 and mark off the distance that you get (rounding to nearest .5 (or even whole number) if you get a decimal will get you close enough 99% of the time) and then adjust the power feed until your mill travers's that distance in 10 seconds. Unless your using less than 3mm (1/8") endmills, I wouldn't worry about the feed error from rounding, or just always round down so to reduce chip load rather than rounding up and increasing chip load. For example, lets say that you needed a feed of 300mm/min, just divide that by 6 thus getting 50, so mark of a 50mm distance and adjust the feed until you cover that 50mm distance in exactly (or as close to) 10 seconds time. If you have a DRO, then its even easier since you can start the feed and the stopwatch at the same time and kick the feed off when you hit 10sec, and see how much the DRO said you moved, then adjust the speed unitl the DRO is as close to the target number as you can get (i.e., 50mm in this example). *EDIT:* Rereading an older post because of a "Like" popping up and I realized I had an error in my time vs. distance math.. Was thinking of the 10 second interval and accidentally said to divide by 10 which it really should be 6 to arrive at the distance per 10 seconds.

I think it was more of a: HSS will cut steel, but it's not ideal as it will dull quickly.

And "ridgeabuility"

@@sparksmobilerepair4025 rigidity

I wouldn't know any better about use cases of HSS since I'm fairly new to machining (which is why I'm here) but "ridgeability" is what sealed the deal for me. Can't take someone seriously when they can't even say a simple word like rigidity.

@@madaxe79 HSS will cut steel fine. Obviously it will dull faster than with aluminum but I've milled 4140 with HSS just fine and the cutter wasn't (noticeably) duller

A bit like "concentral"

You are correct.. he hasn’t had enough “playing time in the field” to know what he’s talking about..

Carbide doesnt last long in worn out machines anyway.

Interpretation: If you are very clean. ???

The guy clearly has a southern accent