Check out these videos . Maybe they will help you to diagnose the problem. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ideXZpZ-35eXYGw.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdGRY7qjsLLNhpc.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i96hfcJ2tZ7KaKM.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i96hfcJ2tZ7KaKM.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a-CKjbqVkpPIpXk.html

AAH FOR THAT ONE I THINK THE YOUR PROBLEM IS ON THE STARTER SELONOID. EITHER YOUR SELONOID CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR THE SELONOID ITSELF IS WORN. FOR YOU TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS THE PROBLEM LET SOMEONE GO TO START YOUR CAR AND YOU YOUSELF BE INFRONT BONNET OPEN. WHEN HE TRIES TO START LISTEN CAREFULLY FOR A CLICK SOUND FROM THE STARTER IF IT IS NOT THER THEN I CAN ASSURE YOU THAT THE CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR YOU HAVE TO CHANE THE SELONOID

@@m.b.smoshitoa8325 Well i have a 2001 honda accord. I change the gasket for the Vtec solenoid in suddenly it dont crank or start the car but it turn on lights. I did change the starter but is still the same help?

Maybe a safety switch on the trans.

My car 2002 Honda crv was running fine. Stopped at store and killed it and it won't start again. It will turn over till the battery dies but it won't start. Put alternator and fuel pump on it but it still won't start. Please help me and thank you.

I wish more people would show kust a portion of your appreciation!!!

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.

@@jimthecarguy @Jimthecarguy this is happening in my 92 mazda navajo / ford explorer. Online obd 1 diagnostics say to ignore faulty ect sensor code since it's got to be within normal operating temp to their good codes, replacing everything else I went back to this sensor, heated it up on my desk with Cooper wire plus solder iron, resistance reads true.. purchase new ect sensor and resistance reads true. I might revisit the problem and see if I am not getting continuous current.. my only guess

The problem was confirmed when the old sensor was replaced.

Glad it helped

For god so loved the world, that he gave us cancer.

Thanks for your input and watching.

Great.I'm happy to help.

jimthecarguy hi Jim all the best from Australian auto club yeah we have all kinds of sensor faults stopping engines from running from crank angle sensors and fuel pump failures to module faults and speed limiter faults I guess that's why we have to keep our training up to scratch cause every new model brings different problems. keep up the good work mate

Yup it does, I check out Repairpal.com now, I lookup cost on fixing things myself, I've saved about $7,900 so far on this Ford on repairs, my cost, about $5,500 and that's with a new Reman engine with 3 years or 36,000 miles, which ever came 1st, ordered threw work. Brakes on all 4 corners cost new with top parts, PLATINUM CERAMIC WEAVER BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS, replaced 2 calipers, 1 in FRONT, then a year later, the rear got stuck, cost me $267 for all, threw that place, just rotors and pads would of cost $1,500 on my SUV, that's front and rears now. Minus the 2 CALIPERS plus must bleed them to. Total cost is all TOGETHER closer to $2,000 now, that's and $1780 TOTAL, I'M DISABLED SO THAT'S A DAM A LOT OF MONEY TO ME FOR BRAKES DONE RIGHT. I DID THEM IN ABOUT 7 HOURS TAKING MY SWEET TIME, ALSO REPLACED REAR SWAY BAR LINKS THAT'S MADE BY MOOG FROM ROCKAUTO, COST $11.25 I THINK, STORES NEAR ME WAS $23.00 FOR THE CHEAPEST ONE AND THAT'S JUST 1 SIDE ONLY. IT COST ME THAT FOR 2 OF THEM WITH FREE SHIPPING, DOESN'T HAPPEN OFTEN FROM ROCKAUTO. THOSE COST FROM $94 TO $163 TO INSTALL THESE PER A PAIR. THAT'S CRAZY. DID THEM WHEN REPLACING BRAKES AND 1 REAR CALIPER TOO. PLUS BLEED THE BRAKES, 1ST TIME MY SON HELPED ME EVER, NOW HE WANTS TO LEARN MORE TO FLIP CARS TO MAKE ENOUGH SO HE CAN BUY HIS DREAM CAR, CAN SELL 5 CARS A YEAR EACH FREE OF TAXES. They don't make cars like before i said, to many computers so we can be burned pretty fast.

Thank you for stopping by the shop

Could you mind to write down your email..thanks

jsauto103@optonline.net

Thanks jim

jimthecarguy

I bet they never replaced the fuel pump, they knew what it was with computer, best to look online to see if a traveling mechanic with top notch Snapon computer to check for 1/3 if the price. I hate using craigslist but there's some great MECHANICS that drive to you and check things for minimum fee provided how far they may be. Me, WELL i live in a small STATE, takes an hour to CROSS it, but i boarder another state, people can CHARGE only $40 if close to you if your doing work. But if more wrong, he gives quotes on paper with you getting parts or them getting them. Best if they get on certain parts. Other parts with core charges, ask if there charging for core CHARGE, if so, then ask if you can get that and always ask what store does he use, he may give his name to use and save you MONEY, make sure you pay any and all taxes now. Have a FRIEND that has a few accounts, I DON'T have mine since our GARAGE closed in April 2st of 1994, PEOPLE thought I was pulling a JOKE, I knew all my CUSTOMERS and it was a shock to me and others that work there, 4 year remodeling jib that took tearing it down and building a new Exxon without the 3 bays. Wished I knew, could of taken old machine's that I used to fix tires for CUSTOMERS and gave 50% to my boss, at 1st he was pissed, I said I can't use this but I can fix flats but it never happened, charged $15 with balancing it. THEY sat for 5 year's, kept asking to open it BECAUSE one guy drove 22 miles to spin wrenches, I had 4 great MECHANICS that wanted to work as a sub contractor. So just renting lift bay out and you get a cut of every job with a slip for records if wanted, boss said nope. Not EVEN our cars at all. Sucked working off GROUND, got fired 6 times for working on my car or FRIENDS coming to my work after they got out of theres around 11:00 to 11:30 p.m. i CLOSED AT MIDNIGHT, they SCARED the old LADIES AWAY he said, I said they kept me from getting robbed like what HAPPENED before i started working there, a guy shot in knee a year before me, i started at 15 years old. Back then, NO LAWS ON WORKING ON THINGS, JUST NOT PAST MIDNIGHT ON A SCHOOL NIGHT. I GOT OUT ABOUT 12:10 A.M. after counting draw and making final drop and locking up paperwork in OFFICE. Had fun there. LOTS of fun.

I have a 2007 Escape that seems like it is a timing issue. But it is flooding the cylinders with the crank no start. I will try this thank you. I HAVE ALSO LOOKED AT EVERY VIDEO ON you tube for about three months.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Great point. Now theres a guy that unplugged the old and plugs in new one, leaves on engine, STATES PLASTIC ONES BREAKING A LOT, said buy the good ones that's brass temp one. Will look into it.

I assumed he had it running and confirmed the problem before making the video.

My Hyundai coolant sensor was showing -28 degrees and started perfectly all the time.

@@davidtrautman6482 Do you even read what you write? If coolant temp is low and engine temp is low of coarse it will start. If coolant and engine temp are too far apart there are no parameters for correct air to fuel ratio.

wow ol im having the same issue now with an 06 mazda tribute, the lady had ran it low on oil and it shut down

Thanks for heads up if that works on 2003 Ford Explorer 4.6L AWD now, if they break easy, then I'll buy one and plug in and it starts up ? If so then I'll do that until I can get inside to work on it, almost sounds like no FUEL or timing chain because engine TURNING over faster than normal it sounds like. Only 72K on Reman engine that's taking care of.

+Charles Scott There was no-spark! No-spark from the ECU means no fuel.

tcpnetworks would be odd that a temp sensor would cause no spark, actually that shouldnt occur IMO.

+Charles Scott My thoughts exactly. If anything, the engine should start but run rich, since the ECM would be delivering the fuel it was programmed to at the temperature it thought the engine was at. I wonder how many Tore-asses won't start every winter when the temps drop into the teens??? TIL: Don't buy a Ford if you have to go to work in the winter. LOLz

Andy Hicks With my limited time with Ford cars, if the sensor fails, the computer sees it as -40F/C so it will certainly run VERY rich (it actually can not see below -40, even with a working sensor). But a no spark condition... No way a temp sensor can cause that unless the ECM decides, "oh hey, no voltage here? lets not send voltage elsewhere and confuse the mechanic by giving a false no-spark". That aside, my issues with the video, he said it would start, but drop into gear and it would die and not start back. He also stated no spark condition. Sorry, but a no spark condition means the car never would have ran. So yeah, I still stand by, it was trying to run too damned rich for the atmospheric conditions. And we are getting to the point now with cars where just a drop too much or too little going into the cylinder will probably cause it to miss, two drops and it may die out. I guess we can thank efficiency requirements.

+Charles Scott Agree 100% ! Good Call ! Definitely would change the oil due to cylinder wash.

If you haven't already replaced the sensor, you should do so. Then disconnect the battery for 10 minutes so it will refresh the computer. Worked on my 1995 f150 4.9ltr

Thanks for watching.

thank you for watching

I believe you are right Rick. I had a similar problem with a '91 Dodge Shelby Daytona Turbo. Ancient by todays standards, but they used the same logic to prevent bad things from happening.

i have a sububan 2002 that will crank but not start just like this but also the fuel gaudge shuts off. what could this be.

Di you scan for trouble codes?

check for spark then check for fuel easy way to check for spark is use a sparkplug and sparkplug wire and ground it the exhaust manifold and look for a arc / spark if there is none likely have a crank sensor issue or ignition control module is bad and if have spark check for fuel if have fuel make sure is proper fuel pressure around 45psi is minimum for a 2002 suburban preferred around 50-55 psi.

Hey what do you mean the alternator. my car won't start cause the battery keeps running dead and I just changed the alternator but no spark and its a brand new battery

The temp sensor prevented reading. New sensor allowed reading. You may want tore watch the video

I just had same problem. After replacing throttle body, fuel pump fuel filter, ect.. I still got same problem. It would fire up when i first try in morning. But the second the engine got warm it would start sounding like it was out of time and it would die. And when trying to restart it would crank but no start. So finally got a code 15 on blinking light on dash. So i unplugged temp sensor and i jumped both wires together on wire harness. Started truck up and truck has never ran and idles as good as it does now. Never heard of a temp sensor telling causing this in my life. But it makes sense. And it was like you said on the chevy the computer tells it to give more fuel which causes it to flood engine. As when I would check new plugs they was wet everytime it would die and not start back up. Good post/comment.

Glad you enjoyed it

@john simmons Listen idiot. Fords are designed to not start or go into limp mode. If the engine overheats. If the Senors is bad,. It thinks the engine is overheating. Why it has two sensors.. One to monitor head temp. One to monitor coolant temp... If the head sensor fails. It turns off the AC compressor and goes into limp mode. If the coolant temp fails. The engine will not start once you turn it off. It does it too protect the engine. As Ford doesn't like warranting engines. Now get in education in how things work and why.. Thank You

Thank you for the breakdown! Cause this is crazy! 🙌🏿🙌🏿

Thanks for watching.

+Brendon Dejesus Yes ! Way too rich to fire the engine.

+Brendon Dejesus That dont explain the no spark condition

+gguilliams14 he had spark. said that that was the first thing he checked.

He had spark...

+Brendon Dejesus :025 "HAS NO SPARK !!""

Frank Dion thank you for stopping by the shop

I'm sorry Dave........... I can't open the pod bay doors!

Thank you for watching.

Did your rpm guage jump when you turn the key over. Mines doesnt and i have the same issue

iRecordOS I actually can’t recall. The only reason I figured out what was going on is because I had been getting a CEL for the same sensor so knew it was starting to fail.

This is what we would all assume to be the case, BUT! it wasn't flooded he said it had NO SPARK!

I’m thinking that he probably did have spark and didn’t realize it. As a master technician, I know that there is no correlation between the etc sensor and spark with this situation.

France M yea if the cars running hot its fuels the cat with more fuel to get the cumbustion temp colder

bingo...

Not so Stephen. Yes, a fat/rich mixture cools combustion chambers down, but I know of no systems that fatten of the a/f mix to cool it down when in a hot or overheating condition. I could be wrong though. If so who is the manufacturer that has this design? You are speaking of autos/ trucks, correct?

This doesn't sound legitimate. As you can clearly see in this video "idiot mechanics" use very expensive OBD scanning tools to diagnose car problems. But if you still think you're mechanic is an idiot then get a new one.

@@staypositive4358 I believe him, I've seen the dealership charge thousands and not even fix the problem and it turns out to be a 30 dollar sensor the customer could have changed themselves

@@ericg4915 . There is no way a dealership charged anyone thousands of dollars to find out the problem was a sensor. There could have easily been multiple problems. But again, if you have an "idiot" mechanic find a a new one. You can also buy a decent OBD scanner and some tools if your willing to diagnose and fix your own car.

@@staypositive4358 your joking right? Whether it turns out to be a valve, sensor, fuse, ground, wire etc etc I've heard millions of stories and seen just as many where the dealer or mechanic dumps 1, 2, 3 thousand into a car and it turns out to be a little cheap part like a sensor. Literally just yesterday a story of a woman who hard occasional rough start and stored misfire data. Full tune up and injectors was around 2,000. Turned out to be a 40 dollar purge valve flooded the intake with gas vapors cause it was stuck open causing a long crank and a rough start especially after getting gas. Its not about being an idiot, any mechanic can have a bad day or get stumped

I was thinking much the same, 4.65 is very close to the 5 volt supply . The sensor it self showed signs of corrosion , acidic coolant will generate voltage like a battery , but not as much as 5 volts.

I have also seen the sensor common voltage shorted to an auxiliary wire via rubbing and sensors internally shorted. Throwing off other sensors that use same supply and grounding. Look at a wiring diagram and you will probably see common used 5volt wire for temp and other sensors. If you still have car there, plug sensor back in and look at other sensor data. You would probably see something else also off.

I agree with you Steve. I have a Jeep grand Cherokee that would not start. I was having reference voltage problems. I unplugged the tps and it started up. shorted reference circuit shut pcm down.

Two pin sensors are isolated from the reference voltage so that shorting it should have no effect on the reference. If they were actually connected directly, the sensor output would always read 5V, so what purpose would it serve? It's supposed to be just part of a voltage divider, and whether it's open circuit or shorted, it should only affect that one signal and not the reference. Unless it's a really bad design-

George Shears i would iffin i was you go out and buy a 1971 ford f-100 and fix it up like new and say seeya to all those sensors and hemroids ect.. yea i know it will cost an extra 2 dollars in gas per month but thats what i would do.

sounds like a good idea to me!!!!!!

I totally agree with you. Let me repeat, I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU.!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, except my daily commute alone is 60+ miles so that's like an extra $3-4 in gas per day. Meaning over $100 difference on my monthly gas bill, if I DON'T take any trips.

Guy Azbell I have a 1971 f100 step side does like gas

Thank you for watching and your input.

Yea wish my car had had that .... before she overheated .... and blew the head gaskets .... and warped the heads

No, the sensor is confusing the computer. At low temps the computer Richens the mixture, so its making a flooding condition (In this case). And sensor was sending over 4 volts, new one sent .66 volts, probably confused the computer even more.

It shares a common ground with the other sensors and acts as a pull down resistor

Did anyone else notice engine temp was at 192 degrees on the test restart? How can that be?

The guy had probably already run the car before to see if he had fixed the problem before he had actually filmed that he had fixed the problem.

Jake Vaj

That sort of makes sense, but why does the ecu still let you turn the engine over, wouldnt that do damage let alone it starting??

Tyrone Nelson It might change with time, but the starting circuit and motor are not controlled by the ECM. Cranking the engine provides a wealth of information important to diagnosing it. Sensor info, trouble codes etc. If it cranks but don't start then I have a whole different approach to trouble shooting then if it don't crank. It is rare that cranking an engine would cause any additional damage to it except in the case where the engine already has terminal mechanical issues.

jake - That is a meaningless flim flam explanation. The problem is simply bad ECU software from the factory programmers. Engines routinely are colder than 14F degrees and they start just fine.

Jake V Since computers were installed on engines to help control emissions I was taught that coolant temperature was the primary source allowing closed loop operation. Hence an incorrect/implausible temperature reading will disable the motor until repaired.

Thank you for watching and stopping by the shop.

,

***** I have a 1975 Olds Cutlass I'm restoring - the only electronics I'm gonna have is the HEI distributor (bullet-proof) and the stereo. Electronics have no place in cars.

***** Considering a car is comprised of hundreds if not thousands of low cost parts it's usually the case that a low cost part breaks and leaves you stranded. When people's wheel falls off the car how much do you think the axle nut that came loose/off cost?

Randy Condran If you believe electronics have no place in cars then you need to swap the hei with points and condensor and axe the radio otherwise your being hypocritical.

HEI is a proven technology that's easy to fix - I'll keep my carb and I'll keep my stereo.

+Thetrucky69 I don't know about that statement. I wish there was a system like that years ago when my wife blew up my Boss 9 Mustang. She tore a hole in the oil pan running over a concrete park stop. She said she thought red light was for "change oil soon". I said why were you not looking at the gauges as well? She replied " what are the gauges" Well, the Boss 9 and the wife have moved on. I sure miss that car.

I see your point there in that case, warning lights and warning devices are very practical when the person that drives the car knows nothing about engines to know when there is a problem, you must have loved the car then! cheers.

+Thetrucky69 Thank you for your input.

+jimthecarguy No worries at all mate, cheers!

Douglas Smith Letting your wife drive the Mustang was your first mistake…

I'm happy to help.Thanks for watching.

It makes sense, but still not a catastrophic failure mode to prevent engine from operating. No enterely sure how CO2 sensors work since they are preheated on start, but the computer could guess that engine is cold from that side so attemp to run on avg figures and mark flashing check engine light on the dash. Catastrophic failure would be a crank sensor because you can ruin the engine injecting without any clue.

38911bytefree The O2 sensor you mention is not the ECT (or CTS) sensor. Also the computer cannot guess, it only receives sensor values and then makes spark and fuel adjustments based on the data its given. ECT reading is one value the computer uses, combined with other inputs to adjust the fuel mixture. Easy enough for Ford engineers to program the computer to prevent spark to the plugs when all the required sensors are not in the ranges it could expect. Note the new ECT sensor was now reading the proper coolant temperature and the sensor voltage decreased substantially, now the computer had what it wanted and it then provided spark for startup. The video proves it was the fault of the ECT sensor. (Other vehicles may not be programmed in the same way).

Interesting problem. It's probably related to Ford's oil pressure protection. If the oil pressure during cranking is lower than expected, then the ECU shuts off fuel and spark. With the coolant temperature sensor reporting a very cold start, the ECU is expecting a high cold-start oil pressure (due to high oil viscosity). Instead, it's getting a low pressure due to warm oil, and blocking the start. You can get the same issue if you put the wrong grade of oil in. This is worse on some engines, where Ford made a last minute change to the grade, specifying a lower viscosity oil to meet a fuel consumption target or something. If you go a grade thinner again, this may be enough to trip the low-oil pressure safety and the car won't start.

Exactly lol. Guess people don't know what a built in safety measure is

Mikel Bentley.. People understand a "Built-in safety measure" However... They don't want them to inhibit them from driving their cars to an automotive shop for the repair over a sensor failure of a obvious false sensor reading. Do we need onboard sensors to detect and bypass failing (inaccurate) onboard sensors??? The very Best auto techs will tell you... Although a diagnostic system is beneficial. Many are poorly designed and overkill.

Goodl ol VW's and their crappy electrical syystems!

773trucker Cars have thousands of parts. They have a failure rate. It passed operational tests, but failed when it got to you. Just funky luck. That's why the dealer has a repair facility under warranty.

Ok, but if the ECU is set to rather be safe than sorry in case of a questionable sensor, why does it allow cranking the engine?

depends on the vehicle some dont fire if no fuel pressure, some dont fire if no oil pressure some just wont fire if any of the sensors are faulty, whats really needed are driver capability sensors to tell if a low performance driver behind the wheel of a high performance car that wont allow driving beyond his/her means, and if the cell phone is in use steer it to the curb

Likely due to the computer having no control over the starter, in this vehicle?

Because Ford engineers know that cranking the engine will never overheat it. Allowing it to crank also shows the components and computer values needed to crank the motor are within value and working, so the repair person can concentrate on operational issues even if it doesn't start (Items come to mind, fuel delivery, MAF sensor, Air flow, ECT sensor etc..)

Well...what happens when the car owner overheats????

Thank you for watching

You almost have it right. The ETC is short to positive not grounded as you stated.

Ok so I am needing help bad. I have a 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V8 4.2L. I have a brand new battery. The Volkswagen won't start, but does act as if it wants to turn over, it just doesn't. My instrument panel/ dashboard has ECM light that stays on, as well as engine light, and ABS. When I try to start my car up, it is quite, and doesn't sound different, except that it won't start. It has back fired a couple times, pairiotically. It has a brand new timing belt on it, when I purchased the vehicle. Which also didn't work when I purchased it as well. My question is if it reads something about timing, could it possibly be the camshaft position sensor that could possibly be the reason for the vehicle not to start and possibly read as timing? If not could I possibly get any advice or direction on what I could do to resolve my situation to get it to where it will start up, so I can drive it. Please I'd forever be grateful for any direction, help and advice i may be able to recieve. Thank you

Thank you for watching.

Mikel Bentley H

Mikel Bentley @

Mikel Bentley aye man fast question I have a 1991 ford f150 and it cranks but wont start I already replaced many of things such as plugs n wires which was in bad shape so was definitely needed had little to no spark changed the starter, the ignition coil, the starter solenoid switch, the battery, distributor cap, and a few other things cant remember it'll crank without the gas pedal down just still not getting it to start