+rares dan thanks Dimitris, sorry about the lack of sound.

Nabrach I'm seriously considering adding background instrumental music to replace the silence, what do you think for this video?

Yes or even better an explanatory voice over

Hi Masheko, if it's overheating, what about your coolant. Watch it very very carefully, can you confirm that your losing some coolant as well (tiny amount but I believe you would be losing some gradually if the same problem originally as mine). Describe your engine noise, does the noise get faster as you press the accelerator with engine RPMs? Or is the noise constant and the same sound? Is it a ticking sound or rattling sound? Yes same here, I absolutely love the KV6 as well, they are powerful and quiet engines, just a joy to drive.

Dimitris Sarris Hi Dimitris, thank you for the question. No need to remove the engine. Both driveshafts have to be removed, the one has to be removed from out of the manual gearbox, and the other one has to be removed from the IRD unit. Hint: You don't neessarilly have to physically remove both driveshafts completely, just ensure they are pulled out of the shafts, then undo the 2 bolts that hold the hub to damper, and that should let you get enough leverage to pull the driveshafts out - just ensure the vehicle is jacked safely on stable level ground. RAVE says to remove the entire driveshafts completely but I and other people have done this with the drive shafts in place, just pull themout of the gearbox and IRD, the way you wil get leverage is by removing bolts hub to damper - when you pull the driveshafts out, don't let them hang, the gaiters can break or the joint can get damaged, use high strength cable ties to tie them. Some have also removed the front subframe for better access, this is optional. When I removed the gearbox on my manual many years ago, I left the subframe in place, but on my KV6, I removed it. No big deal in removing sub frame, the anti roll bar needs to be unbolted, and the bushes also need unbolting, there are also some large through bolts, then finally, undo the 2 twin mounting large bolts that secure the subframe in place - I used a milk crate to help ease it out when I unbolted it. But no - the engine doesn't have to come out. If I was removing the box to do the clutch, I would probably also renew the crankshaft right hand oil seal (if it leaks). Note: I also use a special tool for removing the drive shafts from the IRD and gearbox. There's also another special tool for the crankshaft right hand rear oil seal when putting the new one on. When you renew the clutch, assuming you purchased a clutch kit, you should have a new pressure plate and friction disk and a release bearing. Other than that, the battery and battery carrier need to come out, disconnect the wiring and a few other things. Important: Before you undo the mounting bolts that hold the manual gearbox, support the engine sump with an axle stand and a piece of secure wood between stand and sump - reason being, when you undo the gearbox mount bolts, your also removing some support for the engine that used to be there previously.

Hi Jose, I must stress that I am not a mechanic but just a DIY mechanic. I have never had the Crankshaft position sensor go bad on me. If the crank shaft position sensor has failed, it may register a code, so i would get it scanned as well. The crank position sensor is located on the gearbox bellhousing at the front. Let me ask you this one thing to compare when i had starting issues with my KV6 to how you describe in here, when you do manage to get it started, do you sometimes need to crank it a bit longer for it to successfully start? Or do you simply turn the key once and not press the gas pedal and it will start?

Hi Travis, it might sound somewhat of a silly Q from me but I’ve been guilty of this and it lead to a no start no spark nil crank condition - were any negative earth cables removed, if do we’re they reafixed? Esp the large one that bolts to the gearbox housing. Any codes when you scan it?

@@jascokovacevic well I just order a launch crp123 scanner to do some scan will check on the earth all around the jeep then get back to you thanks much

Hi Travis, what work was done to the car immediately before you changed the crank and cam sensor? Were either of the 3 timing belts disturbed ?

@@jascokovacevic goodmorning my bro my sis get it form her boss but he had get his self in some trouble with the law here in st kitts so he had went back to england but when she bring it to me I realize it aint had no spark no injector pulse so that why I change them but to have any in formation about what happening to it but I tell her I think is the timming belt jump timming because the computer showing the 5v reference

@@travisdore457 morning. Don’t try and do the timing belt without the Rover kit as it’s an interference engine, if the timing isn’t precise, the valves will hit the pistons and major engine damage.

Trouble with the settings.. I'm looking at an alternative to at least put some back ground instrumental music where there's 100% silence.

Hi MB. Interesting that fumes were originally observed as coming up from the engine area and now it won't start and the compression in one valve is lacking. When you attempt to start it, is there any activity at all? I.e - does it try and crank over even on less valves it may try and crank at least, or when you turn the key is there absolutely no cranking over at all? I've not heard of others using that method of rescuing sunken valves. Is the questionable valve on the front cylinder head or the rear one?

Hi Victer, there's a disconnection point on the fuel line sort of above the back of the auto gearbox for the UK and Australian KV6, assuming the American ones would be similar. The disconnection point has a quick release coupling where you can disconnect the fuel hose from the metal pipe that continues from there to the fuel rail. A skinny metal pipe continues from that point to the fuel rail. The fuel rail has it's own disconnection point to the metal fuel pipe. Are you from the Americas? The NAS (North American Specification) part number for the fuel rail is MJN000150 - I logged on to ebay dot com and typed in that part number and the part came up with a complete photo showing the assembly. The fuel rail is only available as a single fuel rail assembly and feeds all 6 injectors. It crosses from one manifold to the other using a bridge which is all built in to the assembly. If your in the UK or Australia, then it's part number MJN100691L. You can go to the Brit-Car Uk website and type that number in the search box and a photo of this part will come up for you to see. The injectors are all secured to the fuel rail and are simply popped in, clamps secure, there's also an o-ring for each injector not to mention the electrical connection. However the main plug to the fuel rail that contains all injectors, goes from about the start of the fuel rail, i hope the photos of those parts will assist to see where it's from. The RAVE manual also has a section on this with a separate section for the NAS Kv6 vesus another for Non-NAS. Are you replacing the fuel rail assembly? Jasco.

Hi Andres. English please.

@@jascokovacevic Hello good thank you very much for your videos and above all the dedication to this engine!. I have an MG ZT 190 2.5 KV6 the same as the freelander you have in the videos. For a week now the car does not start, it tries to start but nothing, I have already changed the injectors, spark plugs, I have checked the fuel pump, the starter motor, I have changed the crankshaft sensor and the other camshaft sensor and nothing, it doesn't turn on it makes a noise as if it were going to turn on but nothing!!! I don't know what to do, if you want I can send you a better video so you can see it and you can give me your opinion, if you give me your e-mail greetings!

Hi Andres, interesting that you say it tries to start but doesn’t start? What lead you to renewing a few sensors? The Kv6 as you know is an interference engine and if either of the 3 timing belts break, you won’t get the correct mixture and it won’t start. Has anyone disturbed any of the timing belts at all ? Yes please record a video and post me the link here do everyone can view for their benefit/s.

Hi again Andres, I know it might sound very obvious, but I note you didn’t mention the battery in your post concerning the No Start issues your having with your MG Kv6. What’s the battery voltage showing ?

@@jascokovacevic hello good the battery is new

Kako si Mirso. English and Balkans. Any other engines fitted in a Freelander? No but there’s a guy in Africa who’s fitted a Toyota Camry engine to one. Ne al Samo znam jednoga u Africi sto ima motor of Toyota Camry u Freelander. Tesko je Bilo ugraditi to.

+Gabita Slabu Hi Gabita, according to Wikipedia, some companies have previously made engines for Land Rover, but it seems that generally before 2007 it was the Rover Group who made the engines and after 2007 it was Ford and Jaguar. According to the Wikipedia article..

+Gabita Slabu possibly engine made by either Ford or Jaguar then.

+Jasco Kovacevic what bearing color did you use?

I left that part to the engine rebuilder since he stripped it down thus he ordered new ones. To tell you the truth he did tell me but i cant remember which colour it was for this one it was around 2 years ago.