Thanks! I've been doing this for quite a while - the videos to support the main [written] reviews only go back 2 years So, here's the pro-1000 one for example www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-1000-printer-review/

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful! The bronzing is investigated further in my [written] look at B&W for the 700/900, where it definitely occurs more on some papers at the higher quality settings. It was because of this that I looked at it more carefully with the P7500 - where it is less evident. Very much paper and settings dependent. My personal feeling is that it looks more of an interference effect and is worse on the 700/900 because of the smaller droplet size and finer resolution at the highest settings

Thanks!

Thanks - However I'd note that this varies considerably with every different printer I've looked at. It may even be different on Macs and PCs (not tested) Not that I trust Lightroom printing though :-)

@@KeithCooper Other than the above caveat I've found Lightroom's Print Module to be excellent overall. I much prefer it to printing directly from Photoshop personally 😉

Letting the printer 'decide' seems to be a very bad idea - this sounds like some Lightroom chicanery, always suspect when it come to print 'quality' (IMHO - YMMV) If you have real detail above 360, send it - there is absolutely never an 'always' in this sort of stuff! The idea is to send as much detail as you have - in the P900 case, up to ~720PPI Look at the details for the P900 article, since they are slightly different than for the P7500

Personally, I never ever use LR, so I don't know. Its 'do everything for you' approach to printing is one aspect I rather dislike, apart from producing bulk 6x4's or the like ;-) My viewpoint might change if I had to a lot of editing/printing, such as for weddings, but that's not the sort of photo work I do... If I wanted to take it into PS I'd use a tiff, not a jpeg, but [just] for print use of low compression [highest quality] JPEG isn't too bad.

@@KeithCooper you lost me completely heheheh ... I shoot DNG ( raw ) so I take it to light room to edit it, doesnt matter if LR or PS, but while you in that software as this is my main point, would you go to the print section after you done edit, without export it or convert it to tiff or miff or anything, just from DNG or RAW .. do your edit thing and go to print, thats what I meant :) Im trying to get best details and quality possible from a print ( forget about weddings ) no one print weddings photos ( on P 6000 ) Im talking about big prints ... so Im trying to understand the best way to print, to stay with the edit software and just selected print and print it, or export it ( or save as ) a file and then go to another place and do stuff there ... and so on. I want the best way so the print will be original and quality fully.

If I open a raw file and edit in Photoshop, then I'll likely print directly from Photoshop - there is no need to export at any point. I may save a copy of the print ready file, but that would be as a .psd or tiff I would only export for print if I was using additional software for printing [such as a rip] and it were not integrated in any way [such as if I were using print layout software like Mirage] The precise print workflow would depend on the software used - examples would be resampling and sharpening@@RAMSEYSPENCER

Ah - first up, this video ONLY applies to the printer mentioned in it, so I have ones for the P700/00, Canon PRO-200 and PRO-300 - I have not done this test on the XP-15000 Secondly, I'd suggest reading the actual written article, I go into lots more detail and explanation than is possible in a short video www.northlight-images.co.uk/best-epson-p7500-driver-settings/ or even more explanation in www.northlight-images.co.uk/driver-settings-and-print-detail/ However you are not doing anything 'wrong' as such - If the native resolution of your image was for example 407ppi, then send 407ppi to the printer, don't reduce to some special number BUT Every printer is subtly different... I might expect my findings apply to the 15000, but I don't know My videos are always more general than the written articles - videos can't be updated/corrected/expanded, whilst all my written articles are fixed/improved as needed ;-) www.northlight-images.co.uk/photography-articles-and-reviews/ Oh and the articles go back ~20 years, the videos two... :-)

Awesome thanks Keith. I'll take a look at the article. I don't suppose you know the native PPI for the Epson XP 15000 do you?

Not without testing - I only had one here for a while on loan from Epson. The P700/900 article does explain the test methodology in some detail, so a good high res image and a few A4 sheets are all that is needed

Ok great stuff. I'll take a look this evening. Thanks for replying 👍

it's where reflected light (usually at a oblique angle) from the surface of a print takes on a slight metallic sheen. It is very dependent on the paper surface type. I cover it in more detail in my written articles - it's difficult to meaningfully show in videos The classic version is seen here (~80% into the article) www.northlight-images.co.uk/hp-designjet-z3200-review/ See the examples for the P700/900 towards the end of www.northlight-images.co.uk/black-and-white-printing-with-the-p700/ This is distinctly less than the z3200 In general, it is a much less serious issue than it was a few years ago. A clear coat ink or spray will usually eliminate it - that or using a different paper...