Another KZfaqr, Andrew Camarata used the same type of lights on his trailer build. He did add a plate to cover the 3 marker lights on the rear end, he drags the trailer thru the dirt from time to time. I liked the conduit idea for a wire chase, with all the splicing it would be cut up.

Two things that I did on my trailer. I put tails that have reverse on them, for me, it makes a big difference if I'm backing at night to help me see. Secondly, I put relays so that my clearance/marker lights also work as turn indicators, which helps when you are trying to change lanes if you have traffic in the lanes next to you. Just food for thought.

I second the point about running bare wires through holes drilled in metal, including washers. You really need grommets or some type of wire loom to run through the washers and holes in the metal. I also think that the trailer brakes should have been put on a separate ground run to the breakout/junction box. Otherwise, this is a great job and teaching video. Thanks!

Excellent wiring tutorial, can’t wait for part 5 breaking the bank at the lumber yard.

I’ve built a few trailers in my 71 years and rebuilt and re-wired many every older factory trailer I re-wired that had washers welded that way had had obvious shorts and had been taped up when I got to them. I always grounded the lights near where they were mounted so if something happened to the single ground wire you wouldn’t loose every light. As to the trailer brakes I always used 10 gauge wire to cut down on heat in the mountains

This reminds be of the time my bf and our crew of friends that always worked on cars re wired one of those vehicles all with light blue wire. It's all they had. They have at time questioned that decision. Oh the glorious 1980's.

This video help me understand how to wire up my car hauler trailer which was hard for me because I have no wiring experience whatsoever. Thank you!!

Great video! Thanks! Have a great day and be safe!

Pretty Smart guy. I mean it. Did a fine job on that trailer. Like the yellow, almost the same yellow the railroad uses on their Utility Equipment. Must make you feel good that not only did you degree in Biology. You run your own company and pretty astute mechanic and welder. Say's a lot about your work ethic! Great Job. You got any room on that trailer for a fuel cell for your equipment? Now you need a Generator and a welder for your Dually and your set.

I also now understand how my RV tow vehicle brake away/lights work. Thanks.

Did you check the fall of the wires to make sure the electricity will flow well?

Thank you for the thorough video as you mentioned, there’s not many that follow things through the actual wiring job. Bravo, well done!

I have a new-to-me equipment trailer that's a typical wiring wreck. So I returned to your excellent video for a quick refresher on how to best do it. After watching this again and comparing my shopping list to yours I realized that you may have omitted passive / reflective material in your light plan. I'm pretty sure the multi function tail lights include some reflective material but I think that's all. Can you see your trailer in the dark with a flash light or car head lights from the sides or the front? You might consider adding some 3M amber and red stickers or the good old Silver and red Conspicuity Trailer DOT-C2 Reflective Safety Tape tape so it can be seen when parked. Thanks again for the great trailer build series, it's been very educational!

Shawn, as an ex aircraft engineer I’m concerned that your wiring will chafe. Can you get some rubber grommets or at least protect the wire from rubbing on the bare metal/washers? Great job otherwise as usual.

Nice job! Those heat shrink connectors are the best. I use them on my boats, and cover them with another layer of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

I’m at this stage in a trailer rebuild and this video was helpful. Thanks!

This one is going into my saved list. I can feel I will need some day. Thanks

Thank you so much! Planning on upgrading boat trailer soon and wanted to start what a great job you did explaining everything!

Hey Shawn. One thing that was over looked is the wire you used is copper clad aluminum. It will corrode very fast. I almost purchased the same wire bundle you listed when I rewired my trailer last year. Instead I used southwire on their spools. Made In the USA as well! From what I've seen most axle manufacturers recommend 10-12 gauge for the brakes so you don't have as much voltage drop to them. Take care and keep up the great work and videos!

Pretty sure rear facing clearance lights are Red and front facing clearance lights are orange? Either way, trailer is coming out great. With the yellow they’ll see you coming more than a mile away!

Another good video Shawn. Always enjoy your teaching. Have a great day.

Of course most of the colours are different down under ;-) I would cut some 1" lengths of garden hose, put a slit in it and push them inside each of your washers. That will save chafing on the wires over time. We (down under) have to have a protective cover over the full length of our wires.

Great video! I add to the comments about the grommets, but I wanted to caution you on that box - it's not as watertight as promised! I used it to rig together the wiring for essentially a trailer, and after a year the entire box was just one gigantic box of rust. I'm rebuilding it using stainless where possible now - perhaps consider throwing dielectric grease in there or something else to provide some sort of waterproofing.

Shawn you should have ran your wire through a split wire loom to help protect them from the elements as well as help protect them from shorting out from them vibrating and chafing against the metal. wire loom is cheap and is a good insurance policy.

Awesome video!I really needed

Masterful work, thanks for sharing. Found the breakaway brake thing to be particularly interesting

thank you for your great info,,the best,,....... if you made a harness for the wires on top of the trailer first like a new car factory build..harness. once it was all together transfer it to the under side of the trailer...just saying....cheers...

Shawn if you're concerned about a small gauge on the blue wire you shouldn't be splicing into the ground wire, but should've run a separate ground for each brake. This is because the same current that will be pulled via the blue will flow to ground via white.

Shawn, Really great job. Just one thing I would do is add some sealant to the junction box where the wires go in. Especially in the top of the box where the white wire goes through. I think you have done a brilliant job.

I look forward to your videos more than an episode of Grey’s anatomy now 🤣

Good Friday morning to you sir from Wellington Somerset in the UK

Hey Shawn, Would suggest do some split loom on the wires will clean up things and help protect the wires a little more.

As a aero structural engineer i think you need some grommets or some protection around those washers that you have welded to the frame It’s always better to be safe than sorry

the rear marker lights on the fenders should be red. i use those lights all the time on my trailers, theyre small but are mighty bright and look very classy

Another great vid but forgive me if I leave all of the electricity stuff to the professionals. I spent a childhood trying to fit long thin metal things into plug holes! Not just once have I been thrown across a room! Still have the curly hair to prove it too!!! 🤣😂🤣 PS...well done though, very impressive work all round on the building of the trailer. You are definitely a man of many talents 😊

A good tutorial Shawn however running a grounding wire (negative) to all light fixtures is far superior than relying on grounding at each fitting due to dissimilar metals causing electrolysis between joints.Electric brakes will work better if all the cables are run from a centre point and the same length otherwise you may find the closest brake will work better than the furthest brake especially if the company is planning on heavy loads🇳🇿🙏🙏👍

Good Stuff! Some great Tips and Tricks to wiring a trailer.

Super great build, I have worked with a lot of connectors and have never seen those heatable solder connections cool. I am not a fan of the metal washers to guide wire. You should put put an inline fuse on the negative side just in case anything shorts, even beyond fuse box. I see a lot of metal against wire on builds. Ziptie to washer works better.

Great teaching video Shawn, very informative.

The last thing you want is your brakes to work separately. If you get a short on the 2 left wheels and those don’t engage and the 2 on the right are functioning correctly, there is a good chance you’ll wreck. Absolutely crazy to do it like that

good job on this trailer stuff we love it. You have lots of skills that are great to see.

Nice job Shawn, keep up the great work.

I am enjoying this build series.

Real bright guy.

Shawn, on my trailer I used PVC pipe as conduit with self tapping screws to fasten the PVC to the frame. BTW,PVC pipe makes a good curtain rod!

Great video. Really enjoyed the trailer series.

from the Netherlands thanks for the video Shawn

Thanks for such a detailed video. Love it. Also very interesting how much this differs from Europe/Swedish trailers and their wiring. Love your channel, keep it up man!

Amazing job

All that work I would have ran through wire loom or made race ways to cover te wires and use wire clamps instead wire ties like solider shrink but I would put another layer of black adhesive shrink over it . Great video though.

A very informative video! I’ve had to troubleshoot the wiring on my boat trailer before without actually knowing the reason it was wired the way it was. I learned a lot! Thanks!

mighty fine video. love the detail.

Every trailer I've ever dealt with had brown wire for running lights. The green was for right turn and stop.

Thank you!

hello, Great video. in your time lapse of the installation of the Bunker Indust break-away system, I can not tell where the white wire and the black wire running from the battery screw into the junction box?

Dylan is right, grommets are needed or over time the washers will rub the wires until they short

Excellent video 💡🔋⚡️

I use 16ga two wire exsenshin cord with rubber cover for markers and three wire ,for tail and turn, (back) and mark the ones in the box witch is left and right ! it is faster and eziaer to home run them .

🇨🇱 very detailed and informative video Shawn. The angle shots were good as well which helps to see what is happening. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 looking forward to seeing it in action. 🇨🇱

Thank you sir 🙏

Nice work as always!

Absolutely great video. So glad it worked in the end. Is there a pt 5 coming for the bed install. Hope so Cheers Lee from the UK 🇬🇧

EXCELLENT VIDEO thx

Thank you for your detailed video. This was exactly what I was looking for. I’m about to wire lights, brakes, junction box, and a breakaway box myself. One question- is there anything you would had wired differently now that you’ve put on the road for some time? Just curious because I’m about to follow your video for doing mine. Thanks, Iz

Thanks for uploading these vids, love watching your work! I suspect someone has likely already mentioned it but it would definitely be worth running the wires through rubber or plastic grommets rather than bare metal to avoid the risk of sheath damage over the years which could potentially end in a short. Out of interest can you not run negative through the frame of the trailer like it is in the chassis of the car to save a bunch of wiring?

Great work!

Isnt it cool that wiring is just like designing a drainage system? Of course you dont worry about fall, but amps = volume of water, voltage = pressure, and wire and connections = pipe size and tees. I've enjoyed the build series. Are we going to see the deck get installed and it's maiden voyage?

This is amazing. Thanks for the vid

hey, thanks for the awesome videos. I Remember you had a specific pitch for french drains, was it a 16th of a bubble? I cant find the video which you spoke about it. Thanks.

I was going say the same thing with the rubber grommet use.

WHAT no backup lights, I sure love them on my trailer.

Nice Job Thumbs up :)

you should have used another separate ground wire for the brakes to balance the electrical load

Just an FYI - Remember, a LED is a light emitting diode, and work as switches or gate keepers and as such are polarity sensitive. They block current flow in one direction and allow it to pass in the other direction.

About wires rubbing on washers : just cable tie wires through the washers to prevent any movement. A quick fix. Cheers

Awesome video man I have to do this same thing 👋👍👏

Hi. Good. Job,thank for share with mi. Can you please help me with cable size. Please. Thanks D

Nice job on the trailer wiring the overall build is good but I see a few red flag...... 1 why aren't the wires in a protective sleeve? 2 why u didn't use rubber bushing for each hole penetration?? Remember metal edge is sharp and the vibration can chaff the wires

LED lights are always tied to the polarity of the wires. Light Emitting Diode.... DC circuit so the current only flows in one direction and not the other.

Cheers

Would it have been easier to run a marker and ground wire on both sides of the trailer and use a butt connector at each light??

Shawn did I miss you installing the license plate illumination?

For that connector, I think you still need to mesh those wires together first before you menlt the solder just to be sure. just slide it to one side, twist or mesh wires together, slide it back and heat.

Running the brake wires independently, how did that work out? Did you cut the wires the same length for the brakes?

Have not watched it yet. But maybe a Orange background with a Letter "S" or "G" in Dark Blue or Black in the Middle of the Circle as your youtube, is it Logo or thumbnail would make it stand out more - be more dominant, as you and your crew normally wear Orange or Fluro Yellow shirts - stand out from the Crowd.

Use marine grade tinned wire on everything outdoors for corrosion protection made that mistake before

Your electrical work is better than your drainage work, now this Xmas you won't need a Xmas tree ! all you need to do is power up your trailer and viola ! Xmas tree

I would have bought the gray electric break wire and I use old extension cord as my 3 wire need and I never had any problems with use old extension cord or gray electric break wire and also wire a ground wire from the front to the back because if you don't you will have problem will it

The battery should charge all the time as long as the trailer is plugged into the truck. The charge wire is not key on only it's always on.

Shawn those melt on connector are crap, the low temp solder is weak and brittle and will fail from vibration.

Do I have to have a battery box, or whats the advantage or disadvantage

Great video! I am about to redo a similar trailer and I was thinking of running 3 junction boxes, front, axles and rear connected with 7 pair bundle, then just doing short runs from each JB to brakes, running lights, tails etc. This will be my first time doing this, am I missing something or would this work?

Awesome video 👏👍

Something I need to do have all new lights plus my trailer is blowing fuses

Where did you get the bit you used for the back 3 holes

Running wires in washers isn't a good idea. It will rub and the wires will fail. Its best in a tubing. I done trailer work years ago for a welding shop.

Will the wires going through the holes you drilled hold up over time rubbing against the sharp edges of the holes? The 90 degree bends in the wire through the fresh drilled hold worries me, but you have experience with this stuff!

A couple things to note: Using standard wiring colors for the function for your runs after the junction box would be a huge improvement if anyone else ever has to work on the trailer. I know I'd be pissed if say I didn't have a left turn, and was tracing the yellow wire only to find out someone used it for a different function. Protect the wires, most wire insulation won't last nearly as long exposed to UV light and the elements. Insulation should never be in a position to directly touch other surfaces that it could rub through on.

How come you left half of it yellow and half primer

There's some scary looking welds on that trailer. All rust and mill scale must be removed before welding. Critical vertical should be made up hill. Dual shield wire with 75/25 gas or 7018 rod would be best.