I had the following which was listed as spam for some reason. Thanks to Turning point for the comment. Turning Point 12 hours ago The collet chucks exterior basically means nothing and has no effect other than out of balance at high speeds if it was really excessive Chris. For anything like this you need to start at square one. Check the mills spindle taper with a 10ths indicator and make sure it's spotless with nothing embedded in the taper , set the chucks R8 shank in a pair of V blocks with the edge of the R8 taper resting in the V blocks groove and spin it by hand and check that with the same 10ths indicator to be sure it's not out of round or somehow bent. The edge of the R8's taper will put the shank at an angle but it doesn't matter, your checking for out of round or a bend.Then as others have said check the chucks taper while it's in those V blocks or your spindle. If everything checks at very low numbers then you'd check that the collet chucks taper is correct. Or at least blue a few collets and see how well there seating in the chuck.An incorrect taper can allow the collets to tilt.This is all a fair amount of work, but you have to know what the numbers are for each area before you can start saying for sure exactly where the problem is. The test bars should be checked in a V block just to rule out or at least know how much runout you have with them. The carbide should be correct, but if you don't test you can't know 100% for sure. This is one reason why I'll no longer buy anything like this that doesn't have some specifications for the maximum allowable runout. And why I almost always test to see that it does.If the tool doesn't match or beat those you then have every reason to expect it to be replaced. There is a small chance it could possibly be a large burr on the collet nuts partial ring that snaps into the collet groove. If it's on the underside it's very hard to spot. That could tilt the collet in the chuck. The wobble your seeing on the top edge of the collet nut isn't conclusive since the nut still could be correct on the internal areas, but you may well be right that it is the problem I expect well under .001" runout on any collets and chuck and mine will easily do that. One bad set of collets, chuck or nut could happen with any manufacturer, so this doesn't mean much for your review, but as it is now it's obviously unusable. If it really is the nut, well that gives you an opportunity to do a good upgrade to a proper ball bearing collet nut. Maritool make a good quality US made one for decent money. Without special grinding equipment and a way to follow the helix on the nuts internal ring there about impossible to repair any real problems with the hardened surfaces. Likely you already know it, but others may not. The torque specifications for a ER 32 nut is 100 ft lbs. Less will still hold, but the cutting tool could then move under cutting conditions. And it's helpful to lightly lube the chucks threads but NOT anywhere near the collets bore. The slots in the sides of the collets have to be very clean at all times as well or that can cause runout.?

Useful test. At least I know what to do when setting up my kit.

I bought an ER25 kit from them myself, with a taper MT2 to use on my lathe. So far I've only got one collet tried for trueness - not bad at all. I think I'll make a review video myself - full test of outside and inside tapers, and all the collets! Thanks for sharing the video! ;)

did you clip the collet into the collet nut (they use an off center washer to pull out the collet as this angle is a sticky taper) if you haven't you would get these results.

G'day Chris glad you did this video, I have just bought the same collet set different maker but as yet haven't tried it out, will be checking it out for any run out thanks again John

Hi Chris, The result seems a little under expectations, just one point before I conclude anything, did you "Clip" the collet in the tightening nut before installing it in the taper? Then you would need to redo all the testing by controlling the inside of the taper and the concentricity of the individual collets, etc, etc... Even the cheapest tools shouldn't come up that bad... Cheers, Pierre

Good show Chris. Wonder how many you have to go through to get a good one?

have you checked the taper inside the collet holder see if that is right it can't be the collets as it run out is to consistant if you know what i meen and the nut wobble may not be the problem if it is machined surface is correct on the matting part side

I got some China collets and they seem to be hit and miss. I got some "great"(for the price) er32 with only .05 runout and some er20 that have .2mm runout.

I would check runout on the inside of yout R8 taper, ideally in two places if you have something like a dial test indicator so you can reach up inside by an inch or so. If you have runout, mark the high or low point on the outside of the spindle nose where you can see it. Then as other have suggested I'd check the inside of the adapter taper for runout, again in two places. See if it is different from any R8 spindle runout. If the inside taper is good, put a test bar in a collet, but don't snap the collet into the nut, in fact use a bit of corrugated cardboard between the collet nose and the nut, and only tighten enough to keep the test bar from slipping. That should have the collet seated only in the taper and not too badly influenced by any nut runout. Then look for bar runout. If all that works out well, the problem is definitely the nut.

I just bought er32 with 2 morse , I plan on using it in my atlas horizontal mill. And lathe if needed. Plan to get the r8 but will have to wait awhile. Getting surgery on spine for pain. If you wanted to machine a tool to wobble like that it'd be a royal pain . Haven't cked my holder yet but hope it's better then yours wow. Thanks Silverbullet aka Gary

Chris how did your replacement holder check out?

the collect has to snap into the nut first then be tightened up, that is where you are getting runout

Hi Chris. When doing these tests it helps to show definitively that it is not your machine, even if you know its not! It's a quesion of showing hard evidence that you are starting from a known baseline. Hopefully the supplier will send another holder, but how will we know that's a typical product now? I suggest borrowing another holder from elesewhere and testing in that - it will show how much is collet and how much holder. A dti up inside the original collet holder taper (painful!) would also be interesting - I suggest using a v blocks if you have one. These things need to be very carefully investigated in a methodical fashion. Given the holder body is also running out of true it's probably not just the nut. Having wittered on, well done for showing that there is a problem. I will now go and check mine! And you are way ahead of me, I don't even know how to do a video channel! Bob. (also getting older).

Hi...a .005 runout on the actual spindle on a mill is not good and that will only multiply as you go further away from it....i have a cheap grizzly mini mill and dont have collets. Since the spindle is stupid mt3 design its hard to fine mt3 collets with a m12x1.75 thread. So i was goung to buy an er32 collet set with mt3 and 12x1.75 thread but not sure now since your review.

Nice review Chris you got a real bad one there.

Not for one minute am I doubting your expertise but cam across a fault like this a while back on a friends mill. He was not fitting the collets into the locking nut but tightening the nut down onto the collets after inserting the collet into the holder. It's a simple oversight to make but makes a big difference. Once shown how to snap the collets into the nut first nearly all his running off problems disappeared.

I got what I believe is the same collet set but from a different vendor. It has the same exact issue, with the wobble in the bit. Everything looks nice enough, but it does not perform :/ Looks like other people have had this same issue as well.

I'd take the nut and collet off and check the inner taper of the adapter for run out.

Brother, if I look at the run out on your precision pins, I get the idea that the inner bore of the collet isn't in line with the outside. This is if you have a good fit between the angle of the collet and the chuck. I.o.w., the inner bore is skew to the outside. If it's out of line, it will have the effect of a hole drilled through something at an angle. I suggest that you set up a precision pin in a 4 jaw chuck making sure it's running true close to the chuck and away from the chuck. I know you know how to do this. Now slide on a collet and measure the run out on the smaller side of the collet. Carefully make a mark on the collet without turning it where the highest dial indicator reading was. Now repeat the process on the bigger side of the collet. Does the highest reading on your dial correspond with the mark with both readings? If not you will know that the bore and the outer surface of the collet is out of line with each other. If the highest reading on the smaller and bigger side of the collet correspond with the mark, you will know that the two let's say "diameters" are not concentric - the center line of the bore will be offset to the center line of the outer face.

I bought both the ER32 holders in MT3 and R8 from Bang Good. Same thing .009 run out, it's the holders that are junk. If you check the run out in the holder taper you will find the problem

Can only assume the tooling is made by different companies and / or machines. I have an ISO 30 taper on my Elliot Milmor 16 turret mill and they proved to be true to within a couple of tenths of a thou.

are you sure you dident get sent a stirrer not a collet holder .

Hmm suppose with all ding dong tools there are good ones and crap ones . I have an ER 25 in my mill and it's run out is very very little . Grand video

I think anybody can get it wrong one in a while...Quality control missed one, for sure. Nice video, Chris. I'm sure you'll get another one to retry and I'm thinking this one will be dead-on!

Another thought. Cut it apart, face each 1/2, thread the outside and make a coupling to screw both halves in and then tig weld together.

Seems to me it doesn't matter why it is out, what matters is that it is out.

wow, that was quite a bit of run out for an otherwise nice looking set of tooling, I hope they send you some follow up holders to get it straight (pun intended) I've bought some lathe tooling from banggood, but so far no spiny bits. all the best BS

Yes, some time your just to close to the action. When you step back and see it from a different view then its right there. Good catch anyway.

make your own collet. first outside with and thread 1 setup. then put it on mill. use it turn inside for collet. runout is 0. then is all bout quality er collets

Seems like they would have checked to make sure the set was good before sending out for a review. Lol

Get on with it man

I trust there is no certificate of accuracy in the packaging :/

THIs is what I call "film set product", it looks like the real thing on your bench, but does not do the job it is made to do, I am sure these tools are made to a drawing by people who have no idea what their end use is, I always buy old known make tooling for this very reason, the big problem we are now getting is that people with no experience of engineering are buying these things, and think that this is normal! Chris B.

Looks like the whole holder is wobbley.

Not for reaming this collet lol

Indian or Chinese, and I'm not talking tea? I hate to say it, but experience has shown, that Chinese is often better quality than Indian. I know you know, but others might not, that the required/specified tightening torque is much greater than you would think to get any pretence of accuracy.

Shame on them for shipping junk like that. Especially when they ask you for a review.

This is worrying!

Bad and also dangerous!

Bad batch i think why did they get you to review a collet set that is crap?