I actually had to replace the pump right after I posted the review video: MasterCool MCP44 Evaporative Cooler Review

A Kay Sounds like you need to adjust the float on the water inlet. This may be a little difficult to explain via comments but the valve has a rod that tilts downward and then horizontal with the float attached at the end. When the water level rises, as the float lifts up, it slowly shuts off the inlet valve. You need to bend the horizontal section down a little to so that the float will raise the angle of the rod coming out of the valve so it shuts the valve off sooner. I know it's mentioned in the installation guide, so if I did a poor job of explaining (which I think I did), refer to the manual about adjusting the inlet valve, water level, or float.

+Enrique Madrigal Sorry, I didn't pay attention to the measurements have have since put molding around it for a more finished look. I just measured the height/width of the duct that goes into the house.

Thank you, I will do the same

Sorry, I didn't mention the water hookup in this video, but kinda show it in the "review" I just posted. Hopefully it helps: MasterCool MCP44 Evaporative Cooler Review

Sorry for the delay, I've been planning more of a review video and finally got it up: MasterCool MCP44 Evaporative Cooler Review As for the use in Houston, I'm not sure an evaporative cooler is what you are looking for. I googled the humidity and averages seem to be between 49% to 95% and rarely as low as 24%. Evaporative coolers require the humidity to be low for the water to evaporate and cool the air. If the air is already saturated with water and won't hold any more, it's not going to work. As for the exit air, you just open a window in another room. If one room isn't cool enough, you open the window in that room and close (or reduce how much it is open) in another room.

You just have to pry out the four rubber covers and there are screws under them.

What kind of screwdriver removes those screws?

In this video, the cooler sticks out from the wall on the inside of the house. Turns out, it needs to be this way if you have the cover that snaps onto the front, as it has tabs that need to grab the back and you need to be able to stick your fingers behind it to remove. I believe I posted another video where I installed a 2x4 on the exterior that the outside housing mounted to, and I installed a screen over the entire unit to keep the moths out. That's when I learned that having the inside flush with the wall was a bad idea. Finally, I ended up installing a screen between the medium and the housing, so it doesn't look terribly bad and keeps the bugs out.

It should have a compression sleeve that keeps it from leaking. I actually switched from copper tubing to polyethylene cause it's easier to work with.

@@dslynx When I when to home depot, the only complete kits they had were copper, the poly's were all opened and pieces were missing. So I bought the copper then bought 1/4 OD inserts that came with plastic sleeves but still same issue. I used to have the poly but the sun always damaged it causing leaks.

No, I believe it is due to how they package it for shipping. There is a small tube that is tucked into the overflow for some reason that just needs to go back into the reservoir so that water will be pumped back into the reservoir instead of into the overflow. If I remember correct, you can see around 3:15 that the little hose is going behind the pump.

Adjust your float to shut off the incoming water and stop the overflow.

I was just about to ask about this when I came across your comment. I plugged that little hose coming from the thicker hose with a screw and let me tell you it's blowing cooler air than ever. Idk if I'ma mess up the pump this way ? Lmk what that little hose purpose is if any one knows

Sorry, I moved out of that house about 4 years ago. I vaguely remember making sure the hose is vertical in the mounts, setting the bottom in place and then sliding the hose on, but my version didn't have a clamp, it just slid on.

Hello. If you live in a dry area, I believe you will be extremely happy with a swamp cooler. But, they rely on the humidity in the air to work, so if you live in a place that is humid, they don't work. Colorado Springs is like a desert, so they work very well here.

James Zawacki I live in the Philippines sir! It is so hot here so i think it will work fine! :D

TechnoBots101 Nope, it won't work very well there. It's not the heat, it's the humidity. I don't know exactly where you live, but Wikipedia says the Philippines has high humidity. Manila is 76% right now, which is way to high for a swamp cooler to work well.

It's funny you say that. I just had the pump motor go out as well, right after I did this review video: MasterCool MCP44 Evaporative Cooler Review

+James Zawacki I just installed this cooler myself and once I had it all hooked up, the water pump doesn't run when I turn it on. Are there any troubleshooting steps I can take? Am I possibly missing a step?

Alen S Well, it's pretty simple to troubleshoot, if you take the back off, you will see the pump cord go into a plastic cover. Remove that, and you will see a standard 110v plug in. Plug it into the wall and see if the pump spins. If it doesn't, it's probably the pump (just replaced mine again, last month). If the pump does turn on, it might be a bigger problem with the control panel system sending power to the pump. At that point, I would suggest returning the unit.

I am currently using a Dial Manufacturing 1175, just make sure you get one that is the same size or bigger in CFM to make sure it can pump enough water to keep the medium saturated.

@@dslynx Can you add a thermostat so it can shut off?

Verify the hose that goes up the side to the top is connected properly. It should easily fill the top tray with water.

You just need to move the hose that is in the overflow (for some unknown reason) into the reservoir. I have no idea why it is shipped that way, or why the instructions don't explicitly say to move it out of the overflow.. But yeah, it's pumping water straight onto the ground.

So there's no problem if i move that hose to the inside of the reservoir? I have the same problem it never stops dripping but the instructions say to line it up to the overflow plug

Correct, if the leaking is due to the hose dumping water out of the overflow, yes. Move it into the reservoir and your problem will be solved. If it's not due to the hose, you may need to adjust the water level down by gently bending the float down a little to lower your water level so it doesn't fill up to the overflow level.

The bleeding you may be seeing is done to allow for a constant change of the water to reduce scale build up on the pads. You can choke that down to reduce water loss. But if you do like James suggests, then your pads will scale up much sooner.

It's the outside humidity that needs to be low. Areas that evaporative coolers work in, the added inside humidity is a major bonus.

So can you run it with ice water to make it work even better

Yes, this is common when using indoor evaporative coolers. I believe it would be way more work than it is worth for a model like this, but I have well water, so it's nice and cold.

+Ayte Shifera Debaliko I am on well water, so I don't have a meter. I have no idea how much water it uses.

Hopefully this video will help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r7SeZpV92uDKpHU.html

David Beecroft I bought an evaporative cooler thermostat thinking I could just wire it up like an on/off outlet, but when power is applied to this unit, it doesn't turn on, you have to manually press the on button. So, to wire it up properly, you have to take the unit apart and wire into the pump motor power as well as the fan motor power. On the positive side, both of those have standard 110v plugs, so it's technically an easy thing to do, you just have to figure out how to get the power wires from the thermostat into the unit, aka, cut holes in the unit. If I ever get around to hacking it together, I'll be sure to post a video.

James Zawacki i'm surprised MasterCool doesn't just sell something quick and easy to plug in ... or, better yet, sell the unit built this way. What a joke that you have to go through this... does MasterCool think we like it at 65 degrees? Does MasterCool think we stay at home all the time? I'm off to Hawaii for two weeks soon and I don't just wanna let it run all the time... Ideally, I'd like it to snap on low fan when the temp hits 73F, snap to medium at 74F and high at 75F .... then snap off the pump at 71F, then snap off the fan 3 minutes later... snap back on at 73F in the late AM and on and on it goes... why would this be such a chore? It seems like a really, really simple feature for a company that makes this kinda thing. In addition, I'd LOVE it if the unit could snap off entirely if the temp hit a pre-determined mark (say 79 or 80 degrees) and signaled the AC to snap on and take over until the OUTSIDE temp was at another pre-determined mark - say 105F. That way in July and August when it hits 115F here in Vegas and the cooler can't keep up (25F offset so, say, inside temp is 90F) the AC can take over until 9 or 10PM or so ... until the outside temp was under, say, 105F. That's a little more complex and demands communication with the internal thermostat or a system with integrated and replacement thermostat but I'm ONLY TOO HAPPY to spend the money! HELL! This month alone I just save $400 bucks! By September my saving will be at $1500 ... the cooler, with piping et al was $600 bucks ... so, it paid for itself in just over a month... and all those added electronic features... how much could they cost? $200? $300? $600??? I'LL SPEND IT! Over 5 years I've got a lot more money, a LOT more comfort and health (my g/f doesn't even snore anymore and I NEVER wake up with dry or bleeding nose or glue-boogers and the air is so fresh!) so come on, MasterCool or whomever ... bring on the electronics! I LOVE swamp cooling!

I know this is a little bit late but, here is a pic of a simple thermostat type controller for your evap cooler. I installed it myself, and three years later it still works fine.

I believe I purchased it at Home Depot, but Lowes carries it as well and if I remember correct, it was around $500 just for the unit, but you need to purchase fittings to hook it up to a water supply.

mirza yaseen got one today from Costco. $399.

The hose should not be in the overflow/purge pipe, remove it and let it sit in the survivor.

I’m confused about this same thing. So the instructions are wrong?

@@louisfehlig7903 so it was basically calcium build up my brother cleaned ot out and it works fine now

I don't know, I never had to take off the fan. If you mean the fan shroud, there are 4 screws hidden under rubber inserts.

Well my motor went out and got a replacement but it comes with no fan shrouds so how do I remove it and slap it on the other motor ?

You mean the front grill? And why is that? It is simply 4 screws under rubber caps. Once you remove those, it pops right off. You can easily unplug the fan motor and water pump and set the entire front grill to the side.

the back not the front fan cover grill. It's not that heavy though.

You have to disassemble the back grill to connect the hose, properly connect the water line, set the water level as well as do regular maintenance. It's designed to be removed for those reasons.

I took my old one apart every year to maintain or clean in the season. It’s made to do that.

In Hanamura?

I just heard the kids, I don't know where their spawn point was, maybe in Hanamura?

That's awesome!

It was done by the manufacturer, as these houses have a vinyl wrapped drywall and both layers had the vinyl. As for the structural comment, I appreciate your concern. I'll be sure to disclose it when I sell the house, if it hasn't become a sliding glass door by then. As I commented before, my exterior doors don't even have jack studs, these house are just glue and staples.