man that rough nickel finish on that natural wood is fucking beautiful

I had no idea about the nut to string gauge-correlation. Sick video

Absolute life saver thank you so much, the lack of tutorials about the evertune is frustrating but I’m really glad someone out there is sharing their knowledge

Most straight forward no bullshit explanation on KZfaq. Thanks Ola.

This series has really helped understand more about Evertune bridges. When I get a guitar fitted with one I'll know what I'm doing with any adjustment. Thanks, Ola!

Ola, I know these videos are a few years old now but I gotta say….i just bought my first guitar with an Evertune and these have been massively helpful. That you!

Thanks for the easy and informative video Ola!

Thank you Ola! Tuning my Artist BOP to 430Hz D to match Vulgar Display of Power/ DIME. Love my SOLAR and love the EVERTUNE. It is different than all others but honestly, I think it is the easiest bridge to work with once you get used to it. These vids are great! Cheers.

Thanks Ola, you’re a lifesaver!

Awesome video series

Great video man!

Thanks Ola... fook this EverTune was giving me a problem never thought the nut was to small for the strings I was using. Congratulations on the new CHUG PEDAL

I was about to sell my Evertune equipped guitar until I watched these videos. Now, I rave about the Evertune and tell everyone to get it.

Thanks for the video. I’m not really into complicated bridges. But now I have something to refer to if I get one. ☠️☠️☠️

ok cristopher walken super vid, thanks Ola!!

One thing I would point out that made me absolutely insane with intonating this bridge: The string tension seems to be what moves the saddle forward in the event of shortening the string length. Your comment of being almost in zone 3 ("setup to bend" according to the manual) is far more important than I realized initially. At 1:32 you point out going back to the headstock key to make sure you'e still in Zone 2. But I think perhaps a good point to make is the string should be put back at the edge of zone 3 / bend stop, and perhaps even pushed in to zone 3 and brought right back to the bend point in Zone 2. When shortening the string (turning counter-clockwise) - the action screw in the back of the bridge will back out of the bridge sometimes and the saddle won't move forward. This confused the hell out of me, and it really had me frustrated with the bridge. I began to feel like a Floyd Rose was far easier to setup than this thing! What seems to work best for me if having to shorten the string - I turn the tuner key fully in to zone 3 after turning the intonation screw counter clockwise a bit, and I make sure the saddle has moved forward by doing so and sometimes give it a light push with the allen key to ensure it's flush forward. Then I bring it back down the Zone 2 / edge of Zone 3 to check the intonation. I did RTFM - but the problem is there's like 3 of them, all of which have slightly varying verbiage which can cause a little bit of confusion.The string tension appears to be what pulls the saddle forward when shortening the string length - and without tightening the headstock tuner key to pull the string through Zone 2 back in to or at the edge of Zone 3, the saddle might not move forward and shorten the length because the spring module seems to compensate for the tension difference, reducing the saddle travel (or stopping it entirely). I also found you may sometimes have to put some pressure on the screw after turning it to push the saddle forward a bit as well when shortening string length. Once I figured this out, it was a breeze. But holy hell this thing annoyed the crap out of me the first time I tried to figure it out. I'm so tune-o-matic spoiled.

ty

Based Ola

Old, I'm attempting to intonate, but the intonation screw either gets too tight and maxes out at the back of the bridge, or it gets too loose, and I can never get the intonation to match the open string or harmonic. I bring the strings to Zone 2 and tune them, but it always seems like I hit the maximum extreme on each end before it will intonate properly. What am i doing wrong?

Does anybody know what model of solar guitar this is

how can i reset the saddles completle to factory settings? one string has to much force on it because i did something wrong.

Regarding the last point about lower tunings and running out of intonation range, i just got a guitar with an Evertune tuned to drop F with an 0.080 gauge for the lowest string, the guitar is 28" in scale and the nut has been filed for the gauges that came with it. But it doesn't intonate. It stays sharp at the 12th and even though i pulled the saddle really far towards the bridge it still doesn't intonate and the bridge buzzes when play the open string. The bridge did not buzz until the saddle was moved far back. What can i do?

thall

my saddle isn't moving back and forth so i can't intonate, i think the screw came out of the saddle or something and im worried i've damaged it, how do you put these back in?

Having to file the 🎸 to get it in tune. …..not a huge deal but it’s pretty crazy when we’re busting out a file to get a note.

Compte tenu du prix de ce type de guitare, il serait bien d'avoir des videos dans les différentes langues...

I'm using a .54 in drop A, 7th string on an 8 string Kiesel. I have run out of room to intonate, the saddle is all the way back against the bridge. No matter what gauge I use for the standard saddle, it will not intonate, I am always sharp. I am convinced that, Kiesel may not have installed the bridge correctly. Whoever sintalls these could use a little more care and education maybe? I have literally tried everything,.

fun fact...never changed strings and tuning and as well intonated as fast as with the evertune bridge. Really dont understand the arguments brought up by the evertune critiques.

Does Evertune have enough space to intonate low A string in Drop A tuning on 25,5 scale?

they need an evertune with a floyd rose lol

Why are these guitars (made for metalheads by metalheads) in standard E when there is no heavy music in E standard nowadays? I imagine 99% of people who buy these have to tune them lower, change the nut, intonate and what not.. I wish they were set to lower tuning straight outta factory. At least D.