Check the New x3 trigger

Im so confused. They updated the color (granted they did fix that on the previous one too) and the thermal protection mode. Those were the two biggest issues on the V1 as they affected all users. As for HSS, I didn’t even say HSS in the video. I’m confused on how that’s the main show but they also forgot it?

If you're shooting 1/1 there's something wrong with your way of shooting in the first place. Raise the ISO, lower the flash power and you'll almost never hit the thermal barrier. 1/1 on the V1 is something reserved for studio stuff really. If you're on the move run and gunning, 1/1 is just not it

@@Galf506 , No I didn't use its full power. I think it was 1/8 or 1/16. The v860ii has the same overheating problems as the old V1. The v860III does a good job but near the end of the shoot, its recycling time slowly but surely gets slow. So, if Godox really fixed this overheat protection system, this could be a game changer for a photographer like me.

@@hidetoshitakahashi3881 Idk really, I've been using it routinely for birthday parties, weddings, nightlife, etc. and the overheating never really got problematic... 30-40 shots is at 1/1. You're more than doubling that quantity at lower settings. At 1/8 it's 320+ shots : who shoots 320 photos in a row without letting the flash cool? It's not something that happens in these situations, you'd be shooting high speed action stuff

@@Galf506 , I did a wedding reception dance, so I shot every 3 seconds or so. The old V1 was the worst of all when it come to overheating and I have two v860II and both caused overheat problem. Wescott FJ 80 is much better but its battery doesn't last long at all. With Nikon SB 5000 , I didn't have to worry about overheating because it has a cooling fan . But it has a hot shoe problem with my cameras and it cased misfires quite a bit, so I stopped using it. So far, v860III works for me.

Unfortunately not. I would ask the retailer when their last V1 shipment came in. I believe this swap occurred around spring 2023, so as long as it was received after that you should be good.

@@Gloomwithaview I’ve shared the cool white balance figure from using the speedlights directly in various videos. I don’t really encounter it as an issue in my work as I don’t ever mix it with strobes and if I am using a speedlight it’s bounced (in which case it’s generally really close to daylight once bounced indoors, or I’m gelling it to match warm lighting anyways).

People overestimate the round head. The V860III is the V1 with a regular head. You can't beat the power of good rectangular flash head with a good versatile zoom. You can bounce light directional with the flash zoomed at 200mm. A dome just lights up everything and makes it flat. You should not use a dome if you want to bounce. It's the opposite of bouncing, where you pick a wall or object to bounce your light off. A dome sends light everywhere and only a fraction gets onto your subject.

I unfortunately have no clue since I don’t use Canon bodies. It seems to be Canon that is most aggressively making firmware complications to uphold their own speedlights.

@@robhallphoto Thanks very much for your response, Robert. I think you are spot on and I doubt the new flash works properly as Godox has made no mention of it. Love your channel, keep up the great work. 🙂

they already do with the v860iii -- which has a tiny video light in that position.

@@MrDivinemethod The V860III is always overlooked. I don't know why. I sometimes use that LED for nightlife, because mirrorless can't focus in the dark. It can go very very bright. But the V860III has many things going for it. It's a little more powerful and can do everything that the V1 can do, except offer the softer light fall off - which you can only see the benefits of if you shoot a subject against a wall anyway and only if you don't use any modifiers. But the V860III has a much wider zoom range and goes all the way to 200mm. And it's cheaper. For some reason, the round head is the next best thing, when in reality it's worse at the features most people use a flash for.

I just made the same comment, that is the whole reason I'm not getting this flash and will have to stick with the v860iii.

Yup! Important to mention this is a user hack and not a “feature”. Doing this can harm your gear, including making your battery unstable to the point where it swells, cracks, catches on fire and emits toxic gas. So not something I recommend relying on / pushing.

Just checked, yes it is the same with the USB C port on the battery.

@@robhallphoto Many thanks

No. At 1/16th power its recycle speed is .095s which would not keep up with 15 fps.

Idk where this idea that grids only work with dSLR comes from. X-trans sensors (Fuji specifically) can’t see them, but that’s not true of other brands. The grid works as intended on Sony.

@@robhallphoto Well that is what I have read, on sensor AF can't recognize red grid (doesn't make sense to me). Kudos to Sony. Nikon has locked that option for Godox flashes (all flashes whatsoever). I have sent e-mails to Godox and that was their response - Nikon didn't enable those options. They could even enable V860III led flash to lightup instead of that horrible green Nikon light which is blocked by every lens. Canon has af light now in their newest flash line-up and it works wonderful. I had a chance to see it first hand.

the grid works fine on my A7RV

@@gamebuster800 Yeah, as said Sony cameras can do it. Nikon on the other hand can''t. Idk why... (I shoot with nikon)

The V860III offers a LED which you can dial up and down. Unfortunately, it's not linked to tapping the AF-ON or shutter button, so it's either on or off. But I put my hand on it when I walk around and only remove it when I take the shot. It's possible to take candid photos.

Didn't realize they had a new transmitter. I've been away from photography for a year! Off to find what I'm missing.

@@markkempton4579 it’s not out yet but it will be shortly. Godox has a video of it on their channel.

I’m pretty sure they are hesitant to revamp the UI to touch screen on their flagship speedlight considering its popularity - and many people don’t want touch screens. With the trigger, you aren’t missing out on any upgrades if you don’t want the touch screen. The dial definitely should have been changed though.

It’s not out yet, but recently announced. I have a reel that shows its interface.

@@robhallphoto my dial is so bad now that whenever this is new V1 version is available I’ll get it. I have had the V1 that I’m currently using from preorder time when it was first launched. It’s done me well up until last year when the jog dial started to crap out. I do like the fill flash attachment and I’m curious to see what I can do with it. The better over heat handling is welcomed too. USBC charging should be on every single Godox battery. I would buy new batteries for all my other Godox gear if it meant I could have USBC charging built into the battery.

I hope this release doesn’t mean Godox is going to strip the 960 port from future 685 flashes. Didn’t know the Y-adapter worked to speed up the flash even more-that’s insane and I should try it out. As is it, the 685 with a pack is faster than the V1, but in my experience so far it has failed to fire more often than the V1.

Nissin too had a Sub Flash much earlier in 2011 in their 'Nissin Di 866 Mark II Pro' flash. I still own and use that flash. It was Made In Japan. Nissin is still giving that option in its latest flashes like 'MG 60'.

@@ranjankmsphotography Metz 58 AF-2 was launched in August 2010, so I don't know what you mean with "much earlier".

@@eiko4252 I didn't mean to compare with the Metz flash. I meant to say that the Nissin flash was launched much earlier than the Godox one.

Its peak draw is low relative to the main one, and they are powered off the same circuitry.

Not sure about those bodies. I know Sony changed their shoe size at some point making it extremely difficult to get Godox gear on and off, but Godox changed their shoe size and now it fits great.

RGB?

I never dealt with the forehead bumps myself but I assume depending on one’s anatomy and % using the VF, it could be really annoying. What would be nice is to just have a switch, and allow it to be programmed in custom functions. M / TTL Commander / Home Unlock / Lock etc.

@@robhallphoto turning that into a custom button would be a perfect solution. My forehead bumps the buttom of the d-pad into multi-mode only at the worst times, but it does it pretty much every time at those times. Not often during wedding prep photos, or reception photos. Almost always coming down the isle, garter toss, bouquet toss... Only when time is essential. The current lock feature is nice easy for most times, and the commander can still adjust the power while it's locked, which is great. But I do envy those with flashes that have a physical lock switch when I bump my into multi mode and miss a shot.

and second mayor improvement from godox to profoto was that every godox light had different color output and it was noticeable when using ad200 and ad600 or the ad1200

Yes, that is true. But it’s not huge considering all the X-series speedlights have done this since 2015. (TT685, TT600, V860II, V850II, V860III, TT350, V350, V1).

@@robhallphoto do you mean other flashes can be adjusted separately from the on camera flash and be radio triggered (not triggered by the main flash light)?

@christian6004 Yes. It's the master / commander mode. This has been a core function of every speedlight in the X series. Here’s it on the original V1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZ-PpMypxp2pm3U.htmlsi=pwMtW3o1kLBaRLnj&t=338 I am simultaneously happy and sad for you. Happy because you learned of a feature that is huge for you, and likely available on what you already have. Sad for whatever you’ve been doing as a workaround 💀

Yeah I struggle to see the current screen outside

​@@JerryC25I never even look at the screen, I use my trigger to control it. Why walk over to the flash when you can remotely control it?

@@cooloox yeah of course I do the same but if you’re in the sun and you wanna confirm the two are communicating you gotta see the back of the flash 😀

Также AD-100Pro.

The V1 Pro says “Pro” after V1. The V1 doesn’t.

What is your expectation? considering Godox li-on speedlights took over the market largely because of how fast they recycled. I know 1.5s 1/1 isn’t the fastest anymore but there’s little that beats it. And if you need faster there’s the obvious move of using a more capable strobe.

@@robhallphoto I’m shooting with an older V1 and I’ve had several other Godox strobes. I’m in their whole system. But, for on camera shooting even at ISO 1000, F5.6, and 1/250, it still takes at least five seconds to recycle. I do some event photography and want a much faster recycle time. What would you suggest? I’m shooting with Z6s and a Z6 ii.

I don’t have one to test anything with. And I didn’t assume anything, I expressed one known and one doubt.

😞@@robhallphoto

Continuous lighting creates this by using different colored light sources on the chip, and blending between the two. The problem with this with flash is each color would require a flash tube of that color. Coloring the flash tube on it's own would decrease light output (effectively the same as gelling). And then, to make any color in between the extremes (say 3000 bulb and 7000 bulb) would diminish the output further as you would need a ratio between the two lights, therefore not able to tap into 100% draw. And then on top of that, you would have to blend the lights through diffusion to homogenize the two light sources (otherwise you'd just get two different colors projected). This means instead of firing light through a fresnel lens (which focuses the light and increases the brightness), you are losing light to diffusion. So imagine -1.5 stop on the bulb, -1 stop losing the fresnel, -1.5 stop going through diffusion, and then anywhere from -.5 to -1 stop depending on the ratio of the color you're trying to create. Quickly your flash is 4.5 - 5 stops less powerful, effectively turning a 76 w/s speedlight into a 3 w/s speedlight. Continuous lighting can thwart most of these issues through arrangement of hundreds of individually colored LEDs, lessening the need for diffusion. Also a 300w Bicolor LED can still draw 300w at every Kelvin temperature because each color is overspecced and then throttled when mixed. I don't think you could arrange flash tubes densely enough that they wouldn't cast uneven colors. Also, it's worth noting flash photographers make up

@@robhallphoto i believe nothing is impossible in technology. i am sure there is research happening on it to get a bi color flash to the market. when iPhone was first released nobody thought we could do so much from cellphones. from 2 megapixel cameras we have come to 100 megapixel cameras. surely I believe that we can get bi colour flashes in future. LED lights are the future for now but never know. to me a flash can be developed in future that is very small in size and yet can give lots of light. once capacitors can be replaced with some other tech to store the energy i am sure flashes can get much smaller n powerful than LEDs.

I’m surprised to hear of someone actually using the modeling light. It’s so low powered I’ve never really tried it!

I guess you could call it that.

It’s 4x the price, it had better.

They could do this, just not in TTL, which just adds more confusion. As a speedlight, it is limited to the outgoing signals of the camera. This is why Sony is M A B C, and Canon is A B C D E.

@@robhallphoto hi, not sure I understand your explanation. Are you saying that in the Sony system, the camera's outgoing signal is limited to 3 groups? Does the camera look at a trigger differently since it can have more groups?

@@robhallphoto another thing I just thought about, I believe the Westcott FJ80 for Sony allows for more groups. I think 6.

@@alvarob17 No, it's not limited to 3 groups. It's limitations of "requesting" a TTL signal would stop at 3, on the Sony system. It could still send manual signals to however many groups the transmitting system allows. So technically Godox could make the V1 control 16 groups. That just wouldn't align with many peoples use of a speedlight, hence why they just stick with what the native flash systems offer.

Funnier thing is that so is the V1 and nobody ever talks about it.

@@robhallphoto Is that seriously correct?? 6800K? I was considering getting a V1 or V1 Pro, but not if thats the correct Kelvin temp on flash 😮

@@robhallphotoThat’s terrible. What is the Kelvin on the v860 II / III?

Somewhat. Part of it is from being at a lower power (64-6500 is more common across the power range) and part of it is the nature of metering speedlight, as the center tends to be a bit more blue than the total usable light that comes out. If you were using it straight on no modifier, you could expect to be about 6000-6200 on camera. But by the time it’s through any type of diffusion, you’re more around 5400-5700k, if not warmer. Which is why most never notice it.

I disagree. First, it lacks independent control of output. Second, a bounce card restricts the directions in which you can bounce off of. If you’re bouncing over your shoulder, then a bounce card can’t send the light forward.

That's two whole jokes

@@s0d4c4n snowflake