You got balls Matt. I’d be so overwhelmed at this point I’d want to just stop. Huge respect for you and your perseverance.

Matt, what I like most about watching you work on projects is that you take the time to explain it, you use tools that the everyday guy can afford, and finally you breathe new life into these old machines and make them look fresh out of the factory. Several of the other channels that I watch get the machines back in to working order (probably what I would do) but you take it several steps further which I appreciate. Your wife must also be a saint and very supportive ! :) Keep it going man!

In my 72 years, I've worked on everything from Harleys to Clocks... I've always thought to myself that I could put together a 747 "IF" I took it apart first! Every time I watch you work, I think of the old saying... How do you eat an Elephant? Answer: One bite at a time! Keep up the great work, I very much enjoy and admire watching your work! Thank you for sharing!

My experience with a bore scope is, it makes everything look10 times worse. The fingernail test works well. Nice vid as always Matt.

Mad props Matt! That whole pump system is no joke, makes my head spin! Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the final product!

Your confidence at attacking that valve body is off the scale!

I've rebuilt engines and transmissions, but the complexity of that thing gives me the willies. Kudos to you!

Matt, I would soak everything in Evaporust. It will remove any rust and never hurt the original finish. I've used it on heavily rusted machined parts and they come out looking like they were just produced. Keep up the great work Pal!

As long as there is no scarring on the spools they will be okay. Surface rust is okay. If you can clean it and not feel any pitting you’re golden. Heck of a project on this one. If you’ve got good manuals you will make it through. 😊

You can (lightly) ball hone (steel wool maybe?) those bores without hurting anything. Also any minimal bleed-over/bypassing from wear shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as the valve block remains sealed good from external leaking. The only thing which might be effected is a slight (undetectable) drop in power performance for the individual worn valve circuit. But to my eyes I'd say "Clean it and send it". I don't think you'll notice any meaningful degraded performance.

This reminds me of a 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of all zebras from top to bottom and side to side. Your dedication to producing quality videos is much appreciated, thank you for sharing.

Think i will dissemble my giant excavator and restore it in my back yard. Props Matt Props

I am glad it's you and not me doing this project!!

Matt, there is one thing important about hydraulics: keep your oil clean and water free. How? Use back flow spin on filter cartridges with 5 micron mesh and a pressure drop indicator. They mainly get blocked by water (they take it out) and when the bypass opens up, it's like having no filter anymore. Change at very least once a year no matter the drop indicator, and do it also when ever the pressure drop reaches half the bypass pressure. 0.75 bar or 10 psi usually, is half the bypass pressure. Why? Dirty oil is like sand going round and round. Aside of the obvious wear points like pumps and drive motors, the way more critical parts are all your valves. See, pressure times flow means energy in hydraulics. So if you have a flow rate through your valve around the pistons (the leak flow) it's where you loose your energy. Asside from costing you diesel, and taking away your peak power, it mainly heats your oil, that leads to bigger leak rates due to thinner oil, that leads to higher oil temps. Called China syndrome, or runaway. By leak I mean not to environment, I mean from pump side high pressure to tank side low pressure inside your valves. E.g. 100kw shaft power goes into the pump, you get (roughly) 20kw heat and 80kw oil, where ever that oil works, you get 16kw heat and 64kw of work. Except for simple pressure drop areas like a relief valve or leaking from pumt to tank side in valves, there you get the full pressure times flow as heat. Obvious that's not the full flow of the machine except when you run the cylinder into end block or your buckets hooked into a tree or rock and it stops moving, then all oils goes through the pressure relief valve and you heat the oil at a rate of 80kw. Now: Just consider how many valve areas you have in this valve block alone, and you understand why the clearance between valve body and those plungers being as thight as possible is critical important. It usually is rated in low tenths of thousands Bananas or 0.005 mm. Basically just a fingerprint could make it stick. With a thin human hair in between on one side it would get stuck hard. How ever, you don't run your excavator 24/7 so I don't think doing more than changing seals makes sense. Pls stop using scotch bright, you'll make it worse. Considering the water being out now, it'll clean up itself and the rest gets into the filter if you follow my advice about that filter. Just remember, keep the oil clean, that keeps the vales tight and the pumps and motors working good. Don't do so, and you'll need a lot of fuel, extra cooler or new vales, pumps and motors. Very expensive. Also consider that dirt enters the system with every stroke of a cylinder in 2 places, the cylinder rod attracts dirt and even the best wiper seal won't take 100% off, and the level change in the tank gets moistzand dust in as well. So better to sightly pressure (0,25-0,3 bat 4 psi) the tank with compressed air if you have it on the excavator or have a cap with a really good air filter on. I usually make it so that the oil tank is half full when all cylinders are in, but when all cylinders are out you still need enough to remove air bubbles from return in side the tank. And then with all cylinders out I pressure to 0,1 bar/1 psi. Have fun. Indeed hydraulic is just 2+2, nothing more. And thanks for your contend.

Charlie was enjoying being inside in the heat and out of the rain too! 😊❤

That!!! is a nightmare. I will be watching with AWE when you reassemble. good luck, you deserve it.

I laughed when Matt was talking about the oven cleaner and said "I'm lazy" .....😂😂 uh, no. You're not.

Regarding cleaning parts…Zep industrial degreaser…purple…works great!!! Also great work, I built machinery for a living…I wouldn’t tackle the valves…you have my respect!!!

I am always amazed at the hot water shower valve in the shop. what an inspired idea. a good hot water pressure sprayer costs in the thousands. Your version costs virtually nothing and looks to do just as good.

Absolutely no friggen doubt that Matt would make a really good and reliable aircraft mechanic with his habits and ability to recognize his limitations and find out what he needs to know. Definitely an interesting episode this one.

It makes me more and more crazy how it is possible to disassemble so many parts by your own. And so much knowledge about machines. Wow.

I'd love to see even a video short of your method for keeping track of all the parts and moving pieces on projects like this. I admire your ambition taking on stuff like this, and I love your down-to-earth attitude. No rush, but please keep the videos coming!

Matt you’re crazy and I love it. I can’t wait to see the series play out

Matt,i thought this was going to become mission impossible but when you said that the oven cleaner was lemon scented I knew everything would come out in the wash pun intended,you’re a brave man,looking forward to the next vid,thanks for this one.🇦🇺🦘👌👌👌👌

The spools will always leak because there is steel on steel sealing which is why there are bleed holes in the valve body. The only issue is how much they leak. The very slight pitting caused by surface rust shouldn't be a problem.

This is perfect saturday night entertainment! Tgank you, Matt 👍

Taking the valve body open was a good idea. The boom cylinder has been leaking water inside a long time. You just got inside the thing before the damage would have gotten even worse. Material removal is not a option and if it has no nicks and dings inside it's probably still ok to reuse the valve body.

You, my friend, are truly not afraid. That is a hard core job.

Well hell Matt, even a caveman…, such as myself, could take that apart…, course, no way in hell I could get it back together. Total respect to your abilities, great video. Thank you sir.

Way beyond my comfort zone. So many parts. I hope the build goes well. Good see you and keep up the good work.

Very interesting piece there, a lot to digest Matt.

I can't believe the undertaking you have here. Keep going!

Those hydraulic tables are life savers. Mine has saved my back many times. Nice work Matt!

If youŕe going to do sketchy activities, tie down straps are your friend. That and steel toed boots! Always great content Matt

Admire your courage, keep up the good work. I enjoy your videos a lot. Glad your wife is a patient lady to permit this so close to living area.

I'm about to undertake a similar project on two three valve monoblocks made by Hamworthy. I plan to use a gun cleaning kit and bore solvent to clean my valves. I'll even use gun polishing brushes in the bores. You might find decent results with this. Good Luck!

Nice to see the parts with water brought in out of the cold....

Never ceases to amaze me that no matter how intricate and complicated something looks, it Never fazes you. Id've taken one look at that valve block and bailed out immediately......total respect to you, Matt..👍

Just had my house pressure washed to remove loose paint, I always thought my pressure washer did not have enough ump to get the job done but it turns out it was the nozzle. Check out getting a TURBO ROTATING NOZZLE it will make a world of difference in cleaning your parts (ask any exterior house painter). Pressure washer direct has a writeup on what numbers nozzle to select

Matt, you are courageous to tackle the hydraulic repair, I think I would have to clean and install new O Rings one section at a time. Good luck !!!!!

R-E-S-P-E-C-T from Germany .

A new video for saturday, perfect! That block looks like a nightmare to put together, allthough you will surely ace it. Have a nice weekend!

Matt, Your a brave man. Enjoy your channel. Boe

Maybe have it hot tanked to get some of the inside cleaned? Just a thought.

Hi matt iv been over 50 years on excavators owner opperater and never seen a valve block been stripped down and I can do most jobs it will be interesting to see it all going back together and even more interesting to see the machine finished it will be like a new machine it wasn't well maintained from new.great videos 👍👍

Always impressed by your willingness to take on very daunting tasks

Your wife most be proud of you for ussing the oven cleaner :)))))))

What a donating task you have at hand . A person has to admire the people it takes to figure out what engineers nightmares cobble together to add another convenient concept

Amazing work! Looks like there's more to these than an entire engine.

My pressure washer allows for a max temperature of 160 degrees water to be used. The PW was bought brand new at Sears some 30 years ago now. I finally rebuilt the pump two years ago and it still works like the Day it was new! Briggs & Stratton 9hp, 4,000psi. Check your owners manual before using Hot water as some pumps will be destroyed by hot 🥵 water.

Dude you got some hairy coconuts!!! Hats off to you sir!!!

Good approach to the teardown. I like the way you are going about the repair on the whole machine, machines are nothing more than a whole bunch of components assembled together to function in a sequential order, and as long as you know that order and what/how components work it should be a doable rebuild. Thanks for the update Matt, enjoyed the video.

Petroleumbased degreaser could perhaps have been a alternative as a cleaner. Your tech knowhow is impressive!!

I would just clean the valve body replace the seals and thats it. I wouldn't worry about some of the small spots you showed on your camera. It might get a tiny bit of bleed by but it won't affect performance. Keep up the great work you are doing.

Dad is a mechanic and he confirmed.. valves and valve bodies are ground to match.. important to keep them matched.

I'm looking forward to the rest of the restoration project!

My dad used to put fine metal polish on the valves and run them in and out to polish out sticky valves good luck

That dish soap, that cleans ducks, after a oil spill. Diluted and sprayed on. Left to penetrate. Then high pressure wash. Works, pretty good.

GUNK ultra degreaser works really well on cleaning up greasy dirt encrusted parts.

A little WD 40 will help get the water out/ off to protect the parts and manifold. Great job on the disassembly. Parts diagram I’m sure was a great help identifying parts. Might try a brake hone in the bores. Most of them have a very fine stones.

As another Oregonian, I love to see someone else in the PNW working in a tshirt in the rain.

Your a brave man Matt! Outstanding!

Well Done Matt.... We TOTALLY Impressed with your Bravery! 👍👍👍👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺😁

You blast it for minutes and you find spots you missed. Always! You bring it back in and WTF! (Wednesday, Thursday, Friday) how did I miss that? I have enough power to blast the chrome off my trailer hitch ball! Then you go back and do it again. Hah! Gotcha' this time! 😊☺

Good luck with so many parts, keep moving I'll be here. :)

Years ago we used caustic soda … for grease removal.. the stuff is great but hard on clothes and skin..we had no pressure washers then.. Just old brush to scrub bit with and water.. Perhaps this is what’s in gunk and over cleaner…. I sure enjoy watching you.. You always put yourself in a defensible position by labeling everything.. keep going. Thank you..

Matt, I have dealt with a few spool valves on Wreckers and skidsteer machines, one lesson I learned early on was to never swap the valves themselves or you end up with issues. It was difficult to tell if you kept the valves you pulled in any certain order which is why I send you this Tip. WD-40 is a great cleaning solution as well as an assembly oil and protectant.

Matt you are crazy trusting of yourself. Congrats bro i would never even attempt this

Wow. Never knew how complicated the hydraulic system is. Great video

I always prewarsh then use foaming oven cleaner let it soak then hit the car wash. 😊

Can you imagine how many separate machining operations were needed to craft this valve body? hundreds, I'm sure

Oh my god. I’m not that technically minded, but I just could not stop watching. For someone that has ‘not done this before’ and actually doing it I find that incredible. You have a gift and I love getting notifications about the next portion of fixing your excavator. Cheers Steve from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺

I'm totally amazed and dazzled at the same time! Can't wait to watch the reassembly process. 😮

Using the engine stand was a nice idea

Perseverance personified. Great work

As always outstanding work ! Thanks for the update . It looks as if it will be fine . 👍

White vinegar will remove rust . Soak a cotton rags and let it the bore for 1 hour you will be surprised

You're amazing. What a journey! Thanks for letting us watch.

Tedious progress ! Keep plugging away ! Thanks for sharing !

Matt... Yeah right, those valves etc. will be easy to put back together... Are you the guy that does Rubic's cube in the dark, blindfolded, wearing mittens ???? I have faith in your abilities... Hell, I've been watching you FOREVER!!! Until next video.... Dave

Can’t wait to see you put it back together!! That’s one complex valve system! Thanks for sharing

It is going to be nice Matt. Thanks for sharing.

Good job, this thing is going to be like brand new. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Matt!

There we go. Great job.

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

Love the regular videos and care you take with everything.

I’ve been enjoying these videos so much!

There is a product we use here in the UK for cleaning trucks, it just drags dirt and grease off, it's so strong it dulls paintwork if you leave it on too long. Can be used diluted for general cleaning or neat for stubborn grease and grime. Also a steam cleaner is much better than just a pressure washer for shifting greasy grime.

Amazing work!!! I think hydraulic fluid does a lot to limit corrosion. Good stuff!

You definetly are learning more about the hydraulics for this and I’m sure it will roll over to other machines you will work on! Congrats!

Matt I admire your courage. Will keep on watching.

What’s next, an engine rebuild on an F-22? I’m willing to take a leap of faith on some things but I’d run from a project like this. Kudos for proceeding boldly. I will relax and breath better after you have it back together and working flawlessly. We’re behind you all the way! 🥸👍👀🔧🔨✅❗️

"its really not that bad" lol love it

Great tear down Matt. I’m sure the instructions will be immensely helpful when it goes back together. Thanks much for sharing!

It's amazing how you can keep track of everything.

You’re a brave man

Nice one Matt, Sunday morning here in NZ, always a pleasure to watch your work, very complicated bit of kit for sure but your attention to detail and meticulous approach will win out I'm sure 🙂

Video popped up on my feed, "Hell yes!"

Howdy Matt, Castrol makes some stuff called "Super Clean" which I have found to work well in removing grease. Since grease is just a thick oil, I have found that in order to remove a grease it needs to be cut with a thinner oil. As the cutting oil becomes thinner and thinner it is easier to be removed by solvents or even thinner oil. Kerosene works really well, or since you are working so much on equipment that is greasy maybe a solvent wash station might be in order. I was thinking that maybe a brake cylinder hone might work for cleaning up those bores so long as you do not get heavy handed and ream them out too much. Keep up the good work!