Thanks John for the kind words and feedback Next time can you send money Ha Ha Regards George

Thank you very much for the kind words, George Staszak 🥰👍

Hi London 64, thanks you for your kind words, Happy Xmas, george👍

Hi Peter, love to in a day or so when making new vids.

Hi Thanks Roy, I go to a lot of factory courses and pass on the good bit, take care

Hi Aaron, thanks for the nice comment, take care, George Staszak

Hi Andrew, thanks for the comment, you missed it about 4 minuets in, Building Control, both Y + S Plan & Combies need to keep a constant flow across the main heat exchanger to stop noise and sludge. Ask Honeywell & Danfoss Technical.Just filmed a new video have a look. At 11pm the zone valve will close where do you think the pump overheat will go? Hope this helps

@@mrcombiBedford The internal bypass is to protect the boiler. The regulations say if a bypass is required it must be automatic. They dont say a bypass is required. The boiler by pass may vary on boilers though. Bruce Young from BRE corrected me for saying the same as you. It's easy to mis interpret.

I'm not saying an automatic bypass is not required. Just it's not a must under building regs in my knowledge. It's why I asked your source as you could be more up to date than me.

Hi Vinod, thanks for the question, combies are perfect for one outlet, changing from an open system (tanks in the loft) I would not recommend because ALL the water pipe would have to be 15mm and heating would need at least 2 power flushs to stop any sludge damaging the new combi. A better way is change the boiler either to a combi on a Danfoss 2 zone but use the HW side to one tap eg.kitchen sink then install an unvented for HW thus you get the best system. I did this in the 1980's If a combi is not practical then a open vented system boiler will do. Hope this helps regards george staszak

Hi, not allowed to mix tank and mains (different pressures) My advice is rip out the whole lot and start again Get 3 quotes 1 Intergas Only use factory installers Regards George

Hi Raymond, thanks for asking, The best place for advice is the boiler firm, officially we add all the water content of the rads, pipe and boiler, good luck. As its commercial which is not my world, I would expect between 20/30 ltr. would do, better over size than under. take care, George Staszak 🤩👍

Hi Gary, Thanks for the question, UF has water and depending on the amount of pipework can have more water than a rad. Normally a 3 bed house has a 10 ltr. inside, I have learnt that adding an external 12 ltr (grossly over kill) keeps the system at 1 bar at all times, THAT is the point of EXP Vess. Don't forget ALL pressures MUST be the same. If 4 bed+ fit 16 ltr. the price difference is small but does the job as always shop around. regards george staszak

Hi Again, many thanks for liking the video, regards george

No problem

Thanks for asking, it dos not matter because it's fixed to the wall as long as the valve is accessible that's the most important part. regards, George Staszak

Hi Sally, Check the filling loop is disconnected from the fill non return valve. If you have a plate to plate domestic exchanger that could have a pin hole. To re-pressure 1st turn OFF the boiler to cool down and refill. drain down from the lowest point under the boiler to 0.0 bar. check EXP valve is also 0.0 if higher remove the air then as per video. Hope that helps regards george staszak.

Hi Patrick, Thanks for asking, the boiler and cylinder has nothing to do with the EV. It's the total of water in the rads plus pipes. E.G. If the system (rads + pipes) has 50 ltrs. at 1 bar pressure, we know water above 50C WILL expand by around 4% = 52 ltrs. and the pressure WILL go up 1.5 or more, danger! The installer HAS to fit an external 12-16 ltrs vessel to stop the rise, often NOT done and fit a external AUTO by pass also often not done. The result: The pump will make sludge, noisy boiler, often breakdown, short life. It's basic installation requirements as I said too many installers will ignore Codes of Practice because breakdowns make money. Hope that helps, George Staszak. 🤩👍

Hi thanks for the question, no a 5 ltr is no good, call Ariston for guidance do NOT mess with unvented, take care. george staszak Mr Combi

Hi Marko, to increase the water pressure use a shower pump and have a look at Grundfos web site increase to over 3 bar. The heating side has nothing to do with water side, your system needs a 12 ltr. + the boiler 10 ltr. The fill is 1.0 bar as per the video. regards geeorge

Hi BN, something is wrong, a mini EXP V (arrester) is for the mains water to help with back-flow or water hammer also where a water meter is near the tap (apartments) the back flow could damage the meter gears also recommended by boiler firms. It must NOT be used in the heating side because it's too small, 3 bed system could need 20Ltrs of expansion. Hope that helps, george

@@mrcombiBedford Thank you Mr Combi. I have a Viessmann boiler installed nearly 3 years ago. They installed what I now know as a mini expansion, (Boss make), on an inlet water supply near the boiler. During service this was not recharged or is it precharged. I now have a noise from the boiler similar to what you have after a toilet has been flushed or after a washing machine requires water suddenly and the water is filling up with vengeance and stops suddenly with a loudish noise as in washing machine, lasts only 10/15 seconds. My washing machine has a Sioux hammer arrestor so that's ok. Not sure how to cure the sudden on rush of water by/from the boiler. The mini expansion arrestor is not much use or probably needs recharging or it is broken. It has no/minimal noticeable effect on the pressure installed on the boiler. Thanks

@@BN-hy1nd Go back to the installer to check and re pressure if necessary we teach to fit a white 2ltr vessel at 1 bar. under the sink near the stop cock

Hi Michael, thanks for asking, all 3 pressures MUST be the same 1.4 bar, (Internal / external vessel and filling the system), for your house I would think external vessel should be 14 ltrs.. The pressure can rise to 1.6 but not above 1.8 bar, if it dose fit a bigger vessel otherwise the pump will burn out and make sludge. regards george staszak

@@georgestaszak2374 many thanks George. I have already bought a 18 litre vessel. I hope this isn't too big?

Hi Thanks for asking, you don't need another PRV if the combi has one already. Just make sure all the pressures are the same, 1 or 1.4 bar and the EV 22mm pipe goes to 100mm from the boiler return isolating valve. If on max heat the gauge does not rise, if it does either the new EV is too small and or the pressure is unequal. take care, George Staszak 👍

George thank you very much for your quick response. Much appreciated.

my pleasure👍

Hi Ian, where the world are you using PSI? Siri said its 4.8 Bar.?? Mrs Combies 5 bed Castle is 1.4 Bar. that is the max in the UK. Did you depressure the system with a hose pipe to allow the new air to empty out the water from the vessel, you cannot use the same valve it HAS to be replaced if water ( condensation ) comes out. As our APP shows the vessel is 1.4 bar the fill is the same 1.4 bar if there is an internal vessel that also is 1.4 Bar. If your system is so big 4.8 Bar the vessel will be above 20 ltrs. Hope they helps, regards, George Staszak 👍

Hi Shauna, No No No definitely wrong, find out if he is Gas Safe, pass to register for complaint and also get Health & Safety involved. This is a at risk situation. Good luck, george🤠

Hi Abdul, thanks for asking, the EV can be higher than the boiler but the water connection must be at the top same way as the label because on removal you could flood the area. regards, george

Hi Kedemah, thanks for asking, yes always on the return as video at least 12ltr. and all the pressure must be the same 1bar or 1.4bar. for a big system. all the best, George Staszak

Thanks

Hi Mia, thanks for asking, on a combi just drain the boiler not via the PRV or you will need to replace it, most good combies should have a point, sometimes on the magnet filter, if not find a low level to drain outside. The problem is that you cannot repressure the air if system is full of water, needs an escape rout. take care, George Staszak 👍

@@mrcombiBedford thanks for the reply. So on a system boiler that’s has been pressurised drain down the whole system too? Just want to double check?

Hi Mia, it's the same way as a combi, external + internal de pressure where its easiest, don't forget both vessels must be the same pressure 1bar or 1.4, as per Vids. George

@@mrcombiBedford appreciate the response

Hi James, thanks for asking, you have found the right place, the answer is in the picture, ALL external EV's have to be connected 100mm below the RETURN isolating valve in 22mm copper pipe to the 3/4bsp on the EV. The shorter pipe is more efficient. The water volume can be calculated but most of us will start from 12ltrs. Better to over size, its job is to keep the pressure from RISING above 1 bar. so we fill the system and EV to 1.bar. That's it not difficult, please watch all my Vids on EV's to get a better view and please pass this on to your installer, PS! don't forget about EXTERNAL auto by pass see that lot as well. good luck 🤩👍 George Staszak

Thanks George, that sounds like a more simple install for me as was worried about fitting it in under my manifold, already have the external bypass installed as I like to do my research, problem is the UFH retailers don't seem to have the knowledge about the small details theyre too quick to try and sell you a manifold kit without any other info, thanks for your reply!

Glad to help, take care.🤩@@jameslatham5555

Hi Kirk, thanks for asking, it's a magnetic filter as required on every system to remove iron oxide to stop entering the boiler, here is a link. www.spirotech.co.uk 👍

@@mrcombiBedford Thank you for the helpful explanation.

Glad to help, George staszak@@kirkswenson7566

Hi Chohan, thanks for the kind words, I do my best to help others, take care, George

Hi Christian, The PRV is on the boiler which will leak when to pressure goes above 2.5Bar. then I has to be replaced. The EX Vess. will loose pressure over time thus we recommend all are checked every year, if you press the valve water will come out and that valve replace. 3 bed or smaller 1.0 Bar larger it's 1.4 bar. both pressures Hope that helps, regards george PS on Faults course we show how it's done

@@mrcombiBedford thanks mate and can you give me information on your fault courses

@@christianblake36 Yes it's a bit complicated to write down, we have a few places available 23+24 September: george

Dear Jak, thanks for asking, really its the installers problem (under guarantee) should be white and supported, check with the cylinder firm speak to SUPPORT what's happening and if its the correct size for your house, outlets and distance. The connection is often 3/4 BSP then a 22mm pipe goes to the nearest cold water pipe then reduces to 15mm. The fitting is 15x22x15 compression is best easy to undo.Tip:- Repressure again to 4bar( the cylinder firm will tell you how may Bars), put a drop of washing up liquid on you finger and gently rub over the valve, if bubbles, faulty valve, get them to change. you could have a faulty vessel u/g. Hope that helps, george 🙏

@@mrcombiBedford I think I may have confused you possibly. Its not the unvented cylinder expansion vessel. We had a boiler mate which packed up so got them to install the cylinder which has its own expansion vessel. At the same time as replacing the boiler mate they installed a red expansion vessel in the same cupboard upstairs as we have a glow worm easicom 3 downstairs. That's the one that keeps dropping pressure. We have a problem with the installer as they fitted a wireless pump overrun and it kept playing up and refused to fix it and said he won't be fixing any further issues. In the end I had to install a cable straight from the pump to the boiler myself. So I'm just trying to work out what could be causing the pressure to drop... So far I've bleed the radiators and checked for any visible leaks which I can't see any. So I'm guessing it could be a leak somewhere else or a faulty expansion vessel... I'm wonder if it could be anything else before a calling another engineer to have a look? Also thinking about adding some leak sealer in one of the radiators potentially as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you 😊

@@jakwalker7948 OK easy, NO leak sealer, as B4 the 3/4 EV to 22mm pipe HAS to be connected under to boiler return valve Y/N? size will start from 12ltrs. often 16-18 is required, (the water volume will push the air out in minuets as it warms up 4+%. Sounds to me it's too small, and should be as close to the boiler as poss. as my video shows, If 3 bed or smaller both MUST be 1 Bar ( larger 1.4Bar) If it goes up quickly its too small. All EVs must stay the same pressure on a very little rise its OK. Re pump overrun never liked them coz you MUST have written permission from the firm that you are modifying their boiler, they normally say NO 👍

@@mrcombiBedford if you don't mind would I be able to send you a photo to the email address which is on the contact page on your website?

@@jakwalker7948 yes, info@mrcombi.com

Dear 246, Thanks for asking, just going out, fit as close to the boiler via 22mm pipe, it doesn't matter about as it's sealed. 10Ltr. could be too small normally 12 - 16 is better to keep the pressure expanding, take care, George Staszak

i bought the exspantion vessel its lard diameter not cylinder shaped and theres no drain ? which way do you mount them with filler at top ? also bought a spiral filter ?

As it's a sealed vessel does not really matter, the most practical is as shown top fill, regards, george

Can I put a filter on to stop water heat exchanger blocking ? And can I clean out old one ?

@@GREEVES246 You already have a mag. filter on the CH return also if you want to change any boiler speck inside ask the factory and they will often say NO. We don't have the right to change anything above the valves unless they say so. regards, george

Hi, Yes every system must include one external AUTO by pass. Thanks for the question, george

Hi Kostas, No this is completely wrong, please see the other Vids. on E V's. We get many installers who do not read the latest updates and just continue the 'old way". All systems with 9 or less rads, heat loss of under 16K watts, MUST have a 10 Ltr. E V @ 1 bar. the filling MUST also be 1 bar. to counter balance the expansion. If adding an external the minimum is 12 Ltr. the pipe MUST be 22mm as shown in the video. Hope that helps, take care George Staszak 🤩👍

Can i resease slowly air from vessel without draining it?

Hi Kostas, No you have to drain the water side first to reduce the air side pressure, as soon as you touch the valve air and water will shoot out depending how much pressure is there. Note: If a lot of water (condensation) comes out you will have to replace the valve because it's water damaged. regards, George Staszak 👍@@Metco81

To pump expansion vessel the label on the vessel says 0,72+0,2 bar do I pump it to 0,75 bar or 1bar

Do pump it up the expansion vessel to 1 bar or 0,75 bar

Hi *&, Thanks for asking, I get worried when I hear about conversion to sealed because most systems can't be done. The reason is it need a overheat stat and PRV have to fitted to the manufactures speck. Most say no. Before you call them add all the rad. KW exactly, how many zones + controls of each zone, by-pass etc. before conversion. I have done this a few times but always used their conversion kit. regards, George Staszak 😟

@@mrcombiBedford it's a newly installed boiler. Not been fitted by me..It has a bypass fitted and it says in the manual that the system is fine to be sealed and vented.. It only has one 2 port valve for the whole heating system, and obviously a 2port valve for hot water. The reason for changing to pressure is because they want 2 radiators fitted higher than the f+e tank and there's no way of fitting the tank higher than the rads they want putting onto the system. The vessel has a pressure relief valve set to 3 bar which the manual states this is what it needed..

Boiler manual says there is an over heat sensor in a dry pocket on the boiler. I know it should be zones but it's an old property that's recently had the boiler changed with old radiators still in use. The radatiors have been re calculated and are all being replaced for new with 2 added radiators above the boiler on a second floor (converted roof space).

Everything is basically all in one cupboard on the 1st floor. Copper indirect Cylinder with the boiler beside it and the f+e tank above boiler about 1meter above. And then a tank for the cylinder beside f+e tank. Two 2port valves and a bypass and the pump are also in same area below boiler. Feeding ground floor and 1st floor and will soon be feeding 2nd floor (2 radiators)

@@vinylspinner87 Hi 87, One zone valve 22 or 28mm for all those rads? Sounds very inefficient I would have three 2 CH + HW. The boiler by-pass cannot cope with 8 rads in a 3 bed semi let alone your 16 rads all with TRVs except lounge. As I said contact Baxi tech. for guidance take care, george