I noticed the lack of information out there as well. Hopefully this helps more people discover how great these bits are. Best of luck with your restorations!

Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the channel :)

@@thehandtoolworks Also I've now found a giant chisel or I believe they're called a ship's lap or plane anyway it's about three inches wide by about ten inches of actual chisel part and then taper's nice and slow into the hollow place for the handle. Probably about an eleven inch taper that doesn't get skinny before the hollow and then fan's out for what I'm thinking is a two inch diameter hole formed for the handle!!! It looks as though I could possibly or probably simply stuff a shovel handle into it and use it for an open planer!!! There's hardly any rust on it so I'm thinking I'll polish it to maby a point zero one finish so it will shine like a mirror!!! And with a naked wooden shovel handle I'll be able to stain it in a light wood finish!!! And since I won't have to do much to the back of the shovel handle to make a nice ball end I'm thinking 🤔 I'll have myself a nice open plaining flat!!! That I can use with pressure from my hip!!! I'm a retired engine builder and CNC lathe machinist and I've learned how to make an edge so Sharp the edge can't be seen even with a two hundred power comparitor!!! So I won't have to exert much pressure to shave wood off of whatever I wish!!! Lucky find huh????

@@thehandtoolworks He's where I got the idea in his video titled (making a huge two handed chisel from scraps) I think I'll go check again and make sure I got that right 👍!!!

Hi Kim, That is a great find! Antique shipwright's/timber framing slicks are really collectible. I'd be interested to hear if you find a maker's mark.

Many thanks Tino! Und es hat mir sehr gefallen ein bisschen Deutsch hier in den Kommentaren zu lesen :)

@@thehandtoolworks 😉

Thanks @darkdave25, hope you got it working well!

Thanks PerfectRestore!

Thanks a lot!

Awesome, good luck!

Thanks! Yes, I'll be featuring the tool wall and more of the collection in upcoming videos.

Glad you found the video :) You might want to try steel wool, wire wheel, or some very fine sandpaper just to remove the brown surface rust but leave any dark patina underneath which is protective. Evaporust tends to strip the patina leaving the steel more prone to rusting. Best of luck!

Thanks Georg. Gimlet bits are one exception I can think of. Until at least the early 1900s, German makers supplied the US with the finest gimlet bits. I have a collection of antique German gimlet bits from makers like Robert Hönne-Knovel, JM Hoff & Lange, and Hilger & Söhne. These inspired me to make clamping auger handle video actually :) Good luck getting your expansive bit back to work!

@@thehandtoolworks Hi! Thanks for the answer! I know Hilger & Söhne, but not the other two. I still have some gimlet bits from my grandfather, I'll have to check the brands. After your video I got the adjustable drill out again. The thread in the drill actually still looks fine, it is the thread of the screws that is quite damaged. I'll try a new screw.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Nick! Glad you liked it!

@@thehandtoolworks Indeed I liked it, thank you.

@@thehandtoolworks I just purchased some old bits myself, they need some attention and thank to people in the known, I might be able rejuvenate them even a bit.

Gracias @luismigueldominguez5487 !

Obrigado! Boa sorte!

Glad you're finding the videos useful. The old catalogs and manuals from vintage toolmakers often have a lot of interesting information, eg: archive.org/details/StanleyToolGuide1952/mode/2up archive.org/details/MillersFallsCatalogNo391925/page/n21/mode/2up Here's a books on hand tool woodworking from 1915: archive.org/details/handworkinwood00noye_0/mode/2up

@@thehandtoolworks Excellent, thx for an answer. Cheers 🍻

Hi @LitoGeorge, I used a scraper here to remove strongly adhered rust and get the tool ready for sanding with very fine sandpaper. The soft wire wheel would have left too much surface rust behind if I went straight to it (and would have kicked a lot more rust into the air in the shop). I use oil to lubricate and prevent the sand paper from clogging.

@@thehandtoolworks thank you for your answers. To further understand: I thought the wire wheel would abrade whatever rust might be on the piece until bare metal. In fact, I wondered if time at the wire wheel would even abrade the metal on the piece. Not so then? Regarding the sandpaper and oil, would putting oil on sandpaper after it gets clogged, allow the swarf to rise and make the sandpaper last longer? Recently I bought a 30ft roll of 1.5" wide 120grit aluminium oxide belt sander "belt" (cloth backed) and I find it doesnt last very long at all - it gets degraded very quickly in fact. I am curious if applying the oil and trying to rework the piece in hindsight will work. Tx

@LitoGeorge, I use a soft wire wheel with very thin/flexible bristles at low speed, so unlike a stiff/aggressive wire wheel, it can't abrade the metal. Using oil (or even water or windex) might help unclog your sandpaper (if the problem is that the particles of grit are degrading or falling off quickly, then it will not help). Sanding erasers also work well at unclogging sanding belts: a.co/d/98TXf3c

Hi @jonesey1981, I use scraping and light sanding to remove the well adhered rust then finish with a soft wire wheel. This does a good job of removing surface rust and polishing the steel a bit while preserving the patina, which is the look I'm after.

Thanks @les3449! The backer board is needed to give the lead screw something to bite into so that it can continue to pull the bit all the way through the hole and to keep the bit centered in the hole for the entire operation. If you tried to force the bit through without a backer, you wouldn't be able to release a nice clean circle of wood at the end leaving a smooth inner bore. Instead, toward the end of the cut, the bit would bust through the hole when the circle is only partially released, leaving behind a very jagged inner bore where the wood breaks off.

@@thehandtoolworksI see. Thanks for the explanation!

Hi @dragomirdichev2423, the older style bits are my favorite to use. For common hardwoods (eg furniture making), the older style is usually better. For softwoods (eg construction) where less refinement is needed, the wide throat design works faster and the coarser thread is preferred. The wide throat and coarse thread are also good for greenwood work.