Kevin Hornbuckle I met a guy from Oklahoma years ago who says, “Poor people have poor ways”. Which is similar to the saying “Sometimes simple works best”. Thanks I appreciate the compliment and your support! 👍

I’m not 100% on the part number, but you can search this Dorman website for a knurl end slightly bigger than .500” and in the length you want/need. www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=Wheel+Stud

tongoio Good information, it definitely would be better to use the undersize/reamer method. Thankful I was able to get studs to properly fit the holes. Heck, I could always switch back to the Ford Pattern if I had to but then it causes rim issues

If it works it works! Nice 👍 JD

Thanks for the tips! JD

Charles Curtis Really interesting tip, the material adds friction to help start the cut. Genius idea thanks for sharing, I appreciate it and thank you for watching! It’s great to hear from the community! 👍 JD

Ricky Bailey Thanks I appreciate it! I wish they would play an ad once in a while on these videos. 😉

Corey McCarthy I’m taking notes on all the ways I can improve the process next time. It’s very helpful getting tips! This cheaper drill press doesn’t have the pulleys to get to 400 rpm. I wish I had a better drill press. Thank you for your feedback I appreciate it! JD

​@@HeadFlowInc I will give you a formula to calculate proper tool speeds: 4*cutting speed/cutter dia. Cutting speed varies by material and tool material. For steel and HSS cutters use 50, for aluminum use 150.

PowerPlay Engines I appreciate all the feedback, it helps everyone learn better ways. I need a better quality drill press to! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD

Richard Walker The biggest issue was the run out or accuracy of my cheap drill press it did not accurately drill the hole so I should’ve used a slightly smaller drillbit but A I didn’t know I would have this issue and B I didn’t really have access to a full set of machinists drill bits.

Thanks I appreciate it! I hope you subscribed so you keep coming back! JD

@@HeadFlowInc done😇

Jamey Larrimore The chuck doesn’t seem to spin true, it actually fell out the first time I tested the press. I couldn’t find any fasteners securing the chuck/arbor so I just hammered it back in. Maybe I need to re-install or buy a better one? Thank you for the feedback I appreciate it! JD

JD that is just the nature of a chuck like that. They will fall out if there is any vibration or side strain. The Morse Taper commonly used on drill presses are only held in by friction and not a draw bar. however you will do just fine if you account for the run out in the future. Again keep it up. You just showed that you don't always need a vertical mill and indexing/dividing head with a DRO. Sometimes the little guys need to get it done too.

Jamey Larrimore Thanks! 👍

With Morse tapers (or any other Taper-fit) being held by 'friction' only, it is imperative that the taper(s) (both inside & outside) be Clean & Smooth with NO Dirt, Grit, Oil, or raised burrs that interfere with the fit. . . If there are any nicks or dings on the taper lightly file and/or stone them to remove the raised material around them. (the low spot won't hurt but the raised edges will) . . Then wrap a Clean Sheet of plain white notebook paper tightly around the shank and use it to wipe any and all dirt, grit, and oil residue out of the sleeve. . . When they are clean, all it should take is quickly 'slamming' it in by hand (No Hammering needed) to make it fit tight enough to require a drift to drive it back out again. . . . As for 'leveling' the table, you can only do that AFTER ensuring that the entire drill press is Level And Plumb. . . If the column and head are setting a few degrees off because the wooden workbench is setting crooked on an uneven cement floor, making the drill press table 'level' just threw in that angle of error from the column & head. . . As long as the drill press table is Square to the Press Itself, you are good even if you lean the whole thing over at 45 degrees (or Any Degree out of plumb). . . Mount a dial indicator in the drill chuck and move it around on the table to check 'squareness' and don't worry about 'level'. . . If you don't have an indicator then you can get close enough for what you're doing by chucking up a piece of 1/2 inch round stock (or whatever your chuck capacity is) and using a small square to check that the table is square to it.

As for the holes ending up too big, that is because even though you are using a drill press you are still essentially drilling by hand allowing the axle shaft to move around as you drill. . . It floats around a little with the two-flute drill bit harmonics along with being pushed down deflecting away from the drill as you apply feed pressure. Then when you break through the other side and the pressure is relieved the axle shifts back up again elongating the hole and making it oversize. the axle should be clamped solid so it can't move, or at the very least put a pair of equally sized blocks (Parallels) under the flange to support it so it doesn't deflect under the drill pressure.

Frank Deninno If you had access to a lathe, you could have a real spacer made to fit snugly on the axle register. Good luck on your build! 👍

So far so good they’re working great. I did learn some good tips for improving the results etc from viewer comments. True story, the machine shops I called about re-drilling the bolt pattern were so high, it would have been more cost effective to buy aftermarket axles! 😳😳🤦🏻‍♂️

@@HeadFlowInc yeah its ridiculous. all they have to do is sweep it to find center and then use their digital readout to calculate the hole positions and drill it

@@HeadFlowInc Been looking into this and your video seems to be the most common solution

Eddie Paez Be very mindful of the run out of the drill and drill bit! If need be drill slightly smaller and ream it to the final size. I had to go with a slightly larger diameter stud at the base to get the proper interference fit. JD

Appreciate the heads up. I wrote down the Dorman part number as well. Completely new to this, really appreciate the details and your response!

Richard Galli My tint drill Press doesn’t reduce to a low enough rpm and the chuck isn’t very good. The run out of the drill bit in the chuck is very bad. Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! JD

The template needs to locate as accurately as possible. If you could get a wheel adapter that locates via the Ford pattern with conical lug nuts then use the proper center punch would be awesome. You’ll need a Cobalt drill bit at low rpm to drill the hardened steel. JD

@@HeadFlowInc wow thanks very much. Sounds simple. I’ve got access to all the tools I’ll need. Thanks.

tjsnordic I remembered, years ago we used a set of 1” thick dual pattern wheel adapters to transfer punch a set of Ford 9” axles to the Chevy pattern. My wife’s uncle drilled the axles on a press. The slowest speed I had was 690 rpm, to avoid burning the bit it does limit how much you can cut at a time, plus lots of lubricant. Thanks for sharing your experience it helps! JD

Allen McKinney The knurl size is the determining factor to the hole size. My issue is something in the equation made the Hole slightly larger than 1/2” or .500 My issue was I couldn’t find any drill bits slightly smaller locally. A 15/64 drill bit may have worked better for my setup. If you have or can get one.

HeadFlowInc dont meant to be rude but dont you mean a 31/64th bit?

Thank you! Clearly I should have researched more since I had to get a larger stud. Thanks again! JD

shatmicellf hp I will try to make a video showing the wheel fitment. As far as I know there’s been no reports of axle hub issues, remember this 8.8 is a commonly swapped rear end. 👍

HeadFlowInc ya, common swap, but you’re missing the point: your stud holes aren’t located precisely- they might not be concentric with the hub center.

fishhuntadventure - it appears he has drilled the hole pattern within a tolerance that allows the studs and pilot to fit thru when that’s the case there is no issue with excessive run out.

Neville Mcnamara Unfortunately don’t own a lathe... 🙃. I agree, I wish I had a bolt on pattern adapter or as you mention a rotor or something with the Chevy 5 x 4.75” pattern. If the rotor was the correct size hub it would be super easy to transfer the new pattern. 👍

No plugs, but I recommend getting a drill bit slightly smaller than the needed final hole size then ream to final size. Cobalt or better drill bit.

The axle already has the Chevrolet and Ford pattern, I’m not sure what other pattern I would be putting on there, but I’m sure someone could do that.

Dan Dallman I agree and appreciate the tip! I wasn’t familiar with how “Sloppy” a bit could be. The runout of the drill press, drill bit, how many cutting flutes all play a roll. I wish I had known more about drilling accuracy but I definitely learned a lot. Thankful I was able to get a plus side wheel stud that fit properly. Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! JD

Eddie Paez I did not use a particular vehicle, I went to the stud manufacturer website and found the size I needed. You will have a crazy amount of sizes, knurl, length etc to choose from. Sorry I couldn’t provide a vehicle. JD

Daniel Mccormick It’s working fine no issues. If I did it over I’d like to find a bolt on wheel adapter to transfer the pattern or went the extra step to precision machine the inside diameter of the plastic template to accept an exact spacer. But it did work as is. 👍

If they had made the pattern better, unfortunately it didn’t line up like I wanted. Great idea though, give it a try your pattern/guide might be different than mine. Thanks for watching and the feedback! JD

Fsu08 Alvarado See if you can first find used wheel adapters from 4.75” to 5.00” pattern. This way you can verify two things, the pattern and there’s enough flange to safely drill.

Interesting, I haven’t seen any studs threading in to the flange let alone from the rear. Press fit has been the method for wheel studs forever. If it’s stronger then I would be willing to try it! JD

@@HeadFlowInc A lot of race axles and and race studs are done as screw in from the back side of the flange, and if I had any choice I would go up in size of the studs and would suggest never using soft stock replacement studs , be safe and God bless you

samuelk009 These templates are sold through Speedway, you can find them online. I bought mine at Motorsports of Kansas City on State Ave. KCK. Another option, a bit more costly, find a wheel adapter from 5 x 4.5” to 5 x 4.75”. Remove the studs for the 4.75” pattern, bolt the adapter to the 4.5” pattern, transfer punch through the new pattern holes. I’ve done this before on a Ford 9” rear end. 👍

Sam Scornaienchi Rebuilding the 8.8 really isn’t very difficult as long as you follow the steps and don’t cut corners. The only tools I didn’t own was bearing/seal driver set, bearing puller and an inch pound torque wrench. With the online rebuild information and KZfaq videos as reference you won’t have any issues. Note: Never mix n match bearings and races always use matched sets. It’s way easier imho to work on the rear end out of the vehicle unless you have access to a lift. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD

HeadFlowInc Autozone has an in/lb. torque wrench and harbor freight for the bearing puller and drivers tool. About $70 for the 3. I built the 8.8 for my 85 with 31 spline ford carrier, moser axles and motive 4.30s and after doing that over and over again I think I pretty much have it down. I have 2 more I want to do so that’s why I bought all the tools. I think people really get hung up on getting both coast and drive side spot on and it doesn’t always work out like that. Mainly drive side in middle and as long as your coast side isn’t hanging off the end or not too tight of mesh you’re good. Next set I’m going to use Ford gears and see how it sets up. Pinion Preload is important also. I have a feeling the Ford gears are machined better. I think I could do one in about 2 hours now from scratch.

I’ve been dealing with some health issue for the last 6 months. The most recent concern was a diagnosis of congestive heart failure which landed me in the hospital. I’m doing much better now with medication etc. My drill press has the speed control by moving the belt at the top via pulleys. I put the belt on the slowest position but some people have suggested I could have gone slower, but I couldn’t. Thanks for checking on me I truly appreciate it! JD

@@HeadFlowInc JD, please take care of your health. Look forward to more videos. I have been trying an electric die grinder for port work and need a controller to regulate the speed. Could also use it on my electric drill press to (faster/easier than changing belts.). Was checking to see if you used one. HF has one, but unable to locate any in my area.

@@gmcnelly2468 I used a sewing machine pedal control

Mike Lomsak I promise the rotor has no opportunity to move under braking, rotors are hub centric and having 500+ lbs of clamping force per side, you’d have a hard time trying to get anything to move once the lugs are tightened. FWIW, even stock rotors per application don’t have a precision fit, there’s a wide variance to account for manufacturing processes and slightly bent/untrue wheel studs. Check it out on one of your stock vehicles! I am not a machinist, but did get some good feedback on how to improve my success in the future. The proper way to drill the stud holes is to drill with a slightly smaller bit and hone to the final size. Thanks for the feedback! JD

Paul Deahl New Cobalt drill bit, I’d have to show you the issue with the chuck not spinning true even without a bit installed. I’m not 100% sure it’s got the original chuck or if it’s installed properly. The chuck only press fits on a tapered shaft zero locking feature. It actually fell off the very first time I tried using the drill press. Weird stuff. Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! 👍

Thanks for watching and the tip! JD

Mike Eagle I was trying to square everything up, I had the drill press on the lowest RPM belt arrangement. Thankfully everything worked out! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD

HeadFlowInc Wanted to give you my professional two cents. A lot of people miss understand something being level as a posed to being square with something. The drill press could have been lying down on its side as long as the piece you are drilling is square with the drill head it will all work out. I like your videos. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I’m sorry, I don’t have a shop I just had to find away to change the bolt pattern. All the machine shops were so over priced you’d been better to buy aftermarket axles! I’d try shopping around your area to see what the pricing is to re-drill axles. JD

Except he now has a drill press for his shop in which is a must if your doing anything reason for having a shop and everybody don't like sitting on their lazy a** waiting for UPS to show up.

@@ozarksfarmerhansen8782 I have a drill press in my shop and it's still a waste of time drilling those axles. I can get a lot of OTHER work done while not drilling those axles and then finish the job up when the axles get handed to me by UPS. You obviously don't have to worry about productivity Hansen.

No chatter or issue at all they aren’t able to move with the rim torqued down. If you check various automobile manufacturers you’ll see there’s a lot of clearance allowed for the wheel studs it’s not a tight tolerance. Rotors are hubcentric located by the fitment to the hub , Thanks for watching! JD

Robert Touchstone Take a moment to think before you reply PLEASE. Everything is centered to the axle hub, when you put the rim on and tighten the lug nuts it’s all properly orientated. I can’t even understand how you can’t see it’s right? How about this, this same setup is in a 1989 S10 running 110+ mph in the 1/8th mile. This ain’t my first rodeo, please think things through. 👍

I do it the right way with a Index head + I spline my own axles numb nut!

Agree with you this is one of those things you don't screw with.

It works just like the factory axles at 110 mph. If it wasnt right the rotor wouldnt fit over the center. 😁 Geometry is Geometey.

GotScout Drill Press is not drilling by hand. I’m not sure why you feel empowered to judge others in how they make things work? Very confusing 😳

HeadFlowInc yes it is. That’s why your holes came out too big.

fishhuntadventure I’m thrilled it turned out ok; worked good. If I had totally messed up I’d had either gone back to the Ford 5 x 4.5” pattern or gotten two aftermarket axles. I had a back up plan but didn’t need it. I learned something and saved quiet a bit of money, this was the goal. 👍

Learning as I go, hindsight after the fact plus great tips from viewers will hopefully help me in the future and anyone watching! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD

Still going strong 👍

Frost Roxie Cobalt is the material the drill bit I made from, feel free to choose the “Brand” you trust most. I think the bit I bought was made by Milwaukee and came from Home Depot. 👍😉😇. Thanks for watching!