Thanks.

Thank you for the support!

Thanks!

Thanks. You are very welcome.

Thanks for the comment. Glad it was helpfull.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you.

Glad you like them! Thank you.

Thanks for the great input with this comment.

This is great. Never knew what the green in histogram was for 😊

A bigger eye cup will help to get a better view from the EVF.

Ole hyvä!

Thank you. Welcome aboard!

No, I don't. Some cameras have so-called Zebras for flagging the overexposed areas.

No, it does not work when using flash. You need to check your exposure afterwords from the LCD.

255 is pure white. The setting 10-245 is good. There is still slightly room for adjusting.

I believe it is the exposure measurement from the focusing point.

I think it's the vertical level of your camera. On the right side of your screen, you will find the horizontal level a well.

Watch this video from RobTrek kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rdRzac5o3Z-YnYk.html

It must the exposure. I cannot think of anything else if you have used ETTR.

The muted settings affects the jpg that we see on the screen. It makes more accurate exposure if we use that info.

Thanks for the reply.@@ForsgardPeter

That is also a good way of making the exposure. I have found that using the flag colors is quite fast. With the flag color method, you can determine where the different zones are. It is quite close to the Adams method.

@@ForsgardPeter Dear Peter, though for average shooting this might be appropriate but for real good exposure I choose the zone(s) and may disregard any flags...

It is funny because it true...

Peter Forsgård indeed

Here is a playlist of videos about the Live Composite. kzfaq.info/sun/PLDi4hF9-cy6gCDRQQ3Kqcis7lSJEYl4Hl

PASM, they all work the same way as you say.

Have you tried to push the info-button to toggle the different options?

Have never tested the Sony SLT cameras, so cannot really say anything.

Yes "P" mode is my main mode as well, but I admit I do not fully understand it. I tend to use it when I use a kit lens as it always seems to choose the widest aperture with the kit lens and since I want all the light I can get this suits me fine, I just adjust exposure compensation and ISO.

@@marklaurendet1861 Oh its simple really, its called Program mode because it takes the exposure, decides on the best aperture and locks the required speed to it and sets them as a block. Now if you rotate the back dial with your thumb it moves this complementary setting up and down so that you can play off DoF with shutter speed with a simple movement of your thumb whilst looking through the EVF. On the street it will choose an average setting somewhere in the middle usually, if you want to bring in the surroundings you can open up the DoF to include a building say then as you home in on your subject, open up the lens to soften the background. It is very rare indeed that i use any other setting, I mostly set about f5.6 but on the street there isnt often time to remove your eye from the scene. People who use this setting tend to be dismissive of people who call it Auto. Martin Parr can be scathing; what you dont trust your camera to set the right exposure, gosh its far better than all of us he he

Mmmm- thank you. I admit I have always dismissed P but I now realise this is worth investigating further.

The dynamic range is very big on a situation like that. The sensor just cannot record both the highlights and the shadows at the same time. You need to find the compromise exposure and adjust the image in post.

Awesome! Thank you so much that clears a huge doubt I thought it was just me who couldn't get the frame right. Again, I'm a big fan I love your videos!!

Yes, the harsh shadows are underrated. If used creatively those shadows are great.

Set the ISO manually. You might need to use longer shutter speeds, but Olympus cameras have quite good IBIS.

@@ForsgardPeter Could you by any chance do a video about it, how to shoot at low light conditions without blowing out the highlights? I think it might useful for other people as well to get a better understanding of shooting in certain conditions, do you a video tutorial about HDR on Olympus? Many thanks

That is a good idea for a video. I have made a video about HDR: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q6uKosx6l524fpc.html

I have not made videos about the metering modes, but it on the road map for this spring/early summer. I think it's wise to exposure to the right every time. The image needs a bit of post-processing after works, but the results are great.

@@ForsgardPeter i'm having to relearn processing cause i haven't done it years. This is probably why ETTR post is confusing to me. I went to garden in Sydney today and got some photos of lizard on a rock. I pushed the EV a little to the right (1 stop i think) cause it looked dark. Haven't had chance to look at it on a computer to if exposure is good .

You need to expose so that the white feathers are just pure white without losing detail. If the scene is very contrasty you will lose detail in the dark areas. The dynamic range of the scene is too much to get everything right. You can open up the shadows and do some noise reduction in post.

It works the same way. Have you check that you have set everything correctly? Did you try to press the info button to toggle the different option on EVF and LCD?

@@ForsgardPeter I will try the INFO button to toggle between the different options. After made that i really saw everything as you mentioned. Nevertheless, i couldn't make disapear the red zone although i changed my aperture and ISO and shutter speed. I have the 12-40mm 2.8 pro mounted

Thank you for this info.

Unfortunately I have never used e500. I cannot say anything about the issue.

@@ForsgardPeter ok was worth a try...thanks very much

Yes, that is true. I have found that the flag color method or histogram is a lot faster.

Well said.

It is always a 50/50, some seem to like when there is some changes in the camera perspective and some don't. I try wary that.

Great info, thanks for sharing. The highest value for white depends on where the images will be used. If you intent to print the images, 249 is fine, but for online use I have found that to be a bit too grey for my likings.

Easy buddy. I have discovered this channel today - and I do not shoot Olympus - and I do not shoot m4/3 - and I do not find that I have to enjoy professional input on any subject. I also follow Thomas Heaton - and he shoot DLSR all day long. As most landscape photographers do. I do not feel hurt there either. I also follow some excellent "hybrid" channels (that youtube have many of) - even if I have never even tested the video mode on my camera. Because there is good information to be found. Peter McKinnon released a fantastic video (or a documentary - or a short movie) about his "bucket-list still-image" - which was a fantastic and inspirational film about seizing the moment and a reflection on what many of us have - this scene that never leaves our minds). By the way - it is a bit low to accuse a professional Olympus ambassador who shares his general photographic knowledge with us for no cost to us to mention that the Olympus system has strong points? He would not have his job too long if he made every video saying that your DSLR are superior in every imaginable way? Yes - there are advantages to mirrorless shooting (one have live-view sensor exposed at all times running at full speed all the time - so one can do some stuff without lifting the mirror). On the other hand - one must pack way more batteries, for example. Every system - and every brand - has faults. I shoot Fuji - and clearly, the APS-C sensor should make me get one of their medium format cameras instead? Except it would separate me from a good AF-system and portability and a catastrophic amount of money and.... Be happy with your camera. I have been lucky to see really really good photographers taking polaroid test-shots back in the 80s and 90s. Polaroid shots that are pure art in themselves. Before they pressed the shutter of their MF (or whatever) camera that shot the image that hangs in galleries and got printed in books. Look at what the really good photographers have on their instagram. Shot with a phone. A pocket camera. And some really expensive kit, SLR, digital, mirrorless or effing Holga cameras. It does not matter. If the image is good - who cares if it is jpg straight out of camera when it is great? "The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it" (Ansel Adams). So forget feeling "told to drop your SLR". SLR was and is great. Canon and Nikon are yet to make a professional camera that is not SLR. If you want peak performance of what imagery of reality can do - get yourself a job in science. We do imagery of not only the Aurora - we image it in 3D. We take sold digital images of magnetic fields. We image the underground by using microwaves. We shoot x-rays at stuff, because visual light-waves are too long to capture really good images. We "listen" to much longer radio-waves to make images of effing black hole event horizons. We launch an effing telescope into space to avoid the problem of air. And we dig a pretty big tunnel under the Alps to "snap a picture" of the Higgs Boson. We shoot high energy x-ray particles at stuff to not only image them, but to make them back-scatter and tell us what atoms they contain. And then we use magnetic fields again to check out if the internals of the brain itself is doing OK If you want "gear" - go into science. Nobody bothers with "is it a true DSLR or mirrorless" when it comes to reality. Photography is different. It can be art. The only thing we should ponder is if digital photo is best on screen - as back-lit (on screen) light or on paper (reflective) light. Nobody should talk about in-camera moving stuff. We should talk about if the original Turner or Picasso or Mona Lisa would look better of the painters had painted on non-reflective transparents for back-lighting while knowing that also glossy photo paper is all reflective. That also old positive film was projected to screen to become reflective rather than back-lit (something that took some training back in the days of analogue film and light-tables - in how to translate the back-lit negative or positive into working in reflective light.

I am not trying to tell anyone to have a mirrorless camera. I really don't mind if someone is shooting with a DSLR. What I do is tell what advantages I find that mirrorless has over DSLR.

@@ForsgardPeter to quote you "you have to have a mirrorless camera".

Why not?

@@ForsgardPeter Don't need them. The cost is not justified. Photography has been done for years with SLR, and DSLR and they do the job. The cameras people are paying thousands of the dollars today will be around $100 and obsolete in 10 years or so.