We were fortunate to have large overhangs to start

Stay tuned tomorrow!!!

It was dry, and was insulated on the inside

Not sure I understand what you are asking

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Sorry… I’ll try to clarify. For a double wall assembly, on the interior side of the inside wall, instead of installing drywall to the studs, what about installing plywood or OSB? (Drywall maybe installed over that.) Being in 3a, warm humid climate zone, would plywood or OSB create issues for the wall assembly? (Assuming HVAC/ERV/De-Humidifier are properly sized, ducted, etc.) The wall assembly from exterior-to-interior would be cladding over rain screen over Zip-R5 over 11”D dense-packed cellulose dbl wall… with plywood/OSB (and drywall). I worry that our tendency to keep the house cooler than most people year round might create an issue on the backside of plywood/OSB? And, if the layer of drywall would either help or hurt potential issues on backside of plywood/OSB. Appreciate your thoughts Steve!

It may seem that easy, but that siding would have split and fallen apart

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 So was the original siding still in decent condition? If the siding was in poor condition, would it be prudent to remove it before installing exterior continuous insulation to prevent it from continuing to degrade and possibly jeopardize the new air/insulation barrier? I understand not wanting to reuse the old siding, just wondering at what life stage of the siding the determination is made to keep it like this project or remove it like Daniel Glauser did in his D.E.R.

Metal conducts energy, IE heat. One of the rules of thermodynamics, ruffly stated, is heat goes to cold.

I think it's relative. The metal penetrations are almost certainly conductive, but foam-on-wood will transfer less heat than wood-on-wood. In short: ignore the screws, unless they're fiberglass. And I don't think those exist. Maybe you could rubberize them somehow, or put them in a plastic sleeve, or use a less conductive metal. A quick google search suggests that steel already has relatively low thermal conductivity for metals, but you could reduce it further by using stainless (from around 50 W/m K for carbon steel to 15 W/m K for stainless. For reference, concrete is about 1-3 W/m K, EPS, fiberglass, and rockwool are about 0.04, and wood can be 0.04-0.12 W/m K. If you have a *really good* airseal, CO2 is 0.017 !)

@@ChristopherCurtisSo the screws aren't thermal breaks, they're just small non thermal breaks right? It's not 100 percent thermal break siding

It is not a perfect world

@@fahqahsowl6498 That's what it appears to me, but know that I know nothing about this beyond was my brain has seen and is now making up. Thermal breaks are good because heat loss is bad, but when you're looking at screws versus holes in the wall, better to focus on the latter.