Water is a perfectly good hydraulic fluid. The only reason not to use water are if it will corrode steel components, freeze, or provide insufficient lubrication.

If you want a "cheaper" hydraulic fluid, you can use any cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid, thinner than motor oil but thicker than brake fluid.

Try reducing the number of teeth on the gears. High performance oil pumps tend to have straight cut gears with only 3 lobes/teeth. This way you could move more volume of liquid at lower rpm which would lead to less bubbles

For any hydraulic system, it’s really important to bleed any air out of the lines and cylinders so that those bubbles don’t degrade the performance of the pump; it also reduces backlash and springiness in the system Also like other comments mentioned, most pumps aren’t self starting, so starting them fully primed should help a lot

I'd really like to see how it does if the pump is primed! I think it'd do fairly well. There aren't many self starting pumps out there, and most pumps can't be run dry as they use the fluid to cool them. Air in a pump dramatically reduces its power, at least the water was able to push the air through, but if it were in a closed loop, it may come into some issues because loads of microbubbles would form like in the oil.

Hi, you can add check valve in inlet to prevent water moving back to bucket so you don't need to prime it everytime. The downside is you can't moving water in reverse

I'm going to print one for sure, thanks for sharing your files! I must mention that plastic gear pumps usually are not self-priming, (and should not be run dry) while diaphragm pumps are self-priming, meaning they can get rid of the air in the system and then transfer whatever liquid through the piping, designing a diaphragm pump for 3D printing is a challenging task.

An O ring around the edge of the plexy glass and the printed part will also help with leaks as well. Great video 📹.

Amazing! You just made every 3d printer owner around the globe a pump factory!

Really like these videos about pumps, hoping there will be a part 2 of the multi stage waterpump

That’s a seriously interesting build that certainly got my attention If you make a oil reservoir that sits above the pump (that has a bottom hose connector, like a power steering pump)and have to system filled up to to the reservoir then it should prevent the air mixing. As the system should be gravity bleed of the air. Some silicone should help with the leaks, except for brake fluid. For brake fluid you would want an o ring

I normally use a screw tap to thread the holes for the inserts beforehand. Works pretty well for me.

You can also use vegetable oil as hydraulic fluid. It’s going to have the right viscosity in a lot of situations and is usually pretty cheap.

Those aren't self-priming pumps. Most systems require bleeding air out first for full performance, much like a car.

this is awesome! consider researching self priming pumps and how to make a hydrofoil also an aerofoil.

Nice project! :) Maybe orings on top and bottom caps help. Also with hydrochloric action you want to increase the pressure so bigger discharge port might help. Thanks again for the great video 🌹

You know what really grinds my gears? Enormously talented content creators, who don't know about proper gear spacing Edit: also, ATF, (transmission fluid) and check valves might help. I wonder how well a tesla valve would work?

Very good video, an observation that I can give you is that hydraulic gear pumps are generally slower, with fewer teeth per gear, greater space between teeth and the cavity that contains them is normally submerged within the hydraulic fluid to handle large volumes and are not reversible, the change of direction in the fluid is carried out by a sliding valve. I hope it works and good luck.

It's lovely!! The problem of leaks can be fixed with grease and polytetrafluoroethylene or glue. The latter is machinable.

The liquid used in a hydraulic system is a hydraulic fluid. Water is a hydraulic fluid if used for that purpose. Oil may just be more preferable since it also lubricates and don't corrode the equipment. For sealing, graphite strings can be quite good to reduce frictions , as an alternative to orings.

Design your prints w/ the threads cut into the plastic. After printing, you can easily use the correct tap to clean-up the threads. There should also be a gasket between the housing and faceplate.

Your getting much better with presentation! Also you are getting pretty good with adding a bit of humour too! 👍✌️

The forbidden caffe latte tho! 6:38

Neat, I’m strangely interested with watching fluid mechanics

I'm all pumped up now!

You should try a worm gear desing for the next. It should run with more pressure

Leaking pumps are like trademark for this channel :D Waiting for next video

Its a good thing you use the same motor again and again, like that we can compare more easily

Excellent. Thanks for all of your hard work!

using straight cut gears and shorter gears will improve performance. The gears are pushing on the sides of the casings because angled gear teeth want to push each other away like a screw thread.

You can fill up the pump with fluid. No pump can run dry efficiently. So if you start by filling it it will get rid of air bubbles. also use a one way vluve to the input of your pump so fluid can't get out when the pump is stopped.

This channel needs more love

Great little pump bud, but since it's a positive displacement pump, it needs to be primed, completely. If you leave air in there the cavitation can begin to wear out the gear material. And ad someone else mentioned, most pumps rely on the medium being pumped for lube. Again awesome little pump bud. I'll giving one a shot when I get home for sure.

2 rules for pumps. 1. Always position the pump at the bottom of the reservoir. 2. Never run the pump dry, it will burn out or wear out the bearings, so always prime the pump first. You could have the pump above the reservoir if you use check valve on the outlet of the pump and prime the system(get the fluid into the pump).

Mech engineer here who worked with gear pumps. You want straight cut gears, not helical. Better sealing and also it removes the thrust loads. You need to feed the inlet better. They must be flooded in order to work properly. Usually you have a shaft that comes out and not the motor shaft going into the pump. The idlers generally just rides on a pin with bushings, not bearings. It was a good first attempt but there are ways to improve on the design.

Awesome idea. I get inspiration from your projects to work on my own ideas :).

This thing is awesome! great work!

“The pump that built this channel…” Hahah. Great job-I love seeing what interesting and creative things you come up with!

I liked this video. Wasn't perfect, but I liked it even more. It was honest.

I like these water bump videos.

The orings ideally should have a groove to sit in (against the barbed fitting) that should give you the seal you're looking for. It looks to me like you've just crushed the oring and it has squished out, I assume that's why those fittings are leaking, great video and I appreciate the effort to speak English :)

You should use thrust bearing where the plastic gear and casing will melt. It will avoid the friction

you should put a little screw in the side of the pump, so when you wanna bleed all the air out of the pump you can just fill it up with water from that screw hole or just dump in water from the inlet until it comes out that hole, it would also probably help a lot when you decide to use it for its actual purpose with hydraulic fluid.

This pump works like my Supercharger. Nice work! Would be sweet to do one like a spiral roots supercharger. 👀

I think some JB weld stuff will work for that I've only used it once and it did great so I think it may work. Use the gasket one for the seals.

Can't you reduce the voltage? To make the pump go way slower? This looks like an extreme example of cavitation. Where you even keep the bubbles in the liquid. Cavitation is caused when the pressure in the pump gets so low in some places in the pump that the liquid turns in a gas. I understood that the bubbels would collapse and cause damage to the pump. But in your case it seems the bubbels remain in the liquid. You can then make a video about the effects the pump speed has on the pump. It is the best with a regulated power supply where you can just pick the voltage between for example 0-30 V DC. Just to be sure print a new pump and start testing with low speeds and with liquid inside. As damage has effect on the pump behaviour later. Then increase the speeds and see what happens. I think this pump would work way beter at lower speeds. When your pump water it should remain water without bubbles when looking trough the transparant plastic. Tips read a bit about cavitation and NSPH. It is fun to see you experiment with all kind of configurations. P.s. when you don't have a regulated power supply putting two motors is series also has a big effect.

This is a good video. I think if you would experiment with straight gears instead of curved gears you might have a better suction and discharge. Prime example look at Bowie Pumps. They have straight gears for their impellers. Just a thought.

Try putting gasket maker around the outside of thr top that or an oring to stop the leak and may allow for better pull and push of the fluid because there won't be leaks where you are loosing suction power

Another great video. Now to make it submersible

I think it might work better if the pump was sealed better and air was completely removed from the system. I’ve seen this on bigger hydrostatic systems. Also the cylinder should be actuated by valves and the pump should only run in one direction. It’s all in good fun though! I love it!

Remember that helical gears have an axial force (total force that transfers power is normal to contact surface) and should be especially supported by an axial bearing. This might be why you have a lot of contact on the acrylic, since (as i see teeths oriented) that gear is pushed against the acrylic while running :)

I'm not sure if it's what's causing your problem but you should be using straight cut gears for a gear pump. It may fix some of your problems.

These are infact self priming pumps but usually for them to be self priming they have seals between the lobes and the case. If the tolerances is low and causes fluid to bypass the lobes then yes it will struggle to self prime.

Nice work...transperant glass makes it interesting to see...plastic deforming is seen live...tats awsome

This is so fascinating Dude 😃👍 Even it works with gears :D

This is pretty cool man!!

Cool video. Though it wasn't the intention, you managed to demonstrate the performance loss caused by air trapped in hydraulic systems.

I have a food safe version of this I didn't realize its an external gear pump. Those coldelite carpigiani gelato/ice cream pumps.

I love your laugh pauses and your laughing by your own lines. 😂 BTW: gear pump must never run dry. Don't confuse them with lobe compressors. 😉

Great design-just needs some gaskets on the flat parts (motor mount and acrylic cover) and needs to be primed.

You could mix diesel and motor oil, you'd get the perfect thickness to lubrication ratio

Maybe a herringbone gear setup to keep gears from binding?

Love the videos, would be cool to see if it’s able to produce any psi? Keep up the great work from Boston!

An O-ring or sealant between the transparent side and housing would help with leaking. The only other place air might get in is around the drive shaft. One way around that problem is to put magnets in the drive gear, and drive it without a shaft -- using coils, a hall effect sensor, and switching circuitry to make the gear a hub-style BLDC motor. for efficiency, need to get coils and magnets as close as possible, while maintaining a wall thickness between them strong enough to cope with the pressure & wear. The wall between gear and coils cannot be conductive/metal as these will interfere with the magnetic field. For the cores, of the coils use iron, perhaps a steel bolt or nail. For easy placement of magnets, use the end of the gear near the back wall, so the coils go where the motor was. An advantage of this design is that a finned aluminum cap can be placed over the coils for cooling with better heat transfer achieved by filling the coil space with mineral oil. For genius points, make the gear with an axial hole through it. And some pockets around this hole to fit magnets. While the housing incorporates a hollow shaft in which the 3 coils go have their axis transverse to the axis of the hollow shaft, and set 120 degrees apart with respect to each other. The space in the hollow shaft can be filled with mineral oil a flat cap over the open end will seal it, but it may be necessary to use a larger cap with fins to disperse heat effectively. Low pressure around the gear would keep fluid away from the coils if there were a leak, while the pump runs. It is possible to see what looks like air in the chamber if the intake is not wide enough to keep up would the pump's throughput, and what that actually is is a vacuum. This effect is also possible if the gears are moving fast enough to create very low pressure - this leads to cavitation which will damage the pump as the water implodes around vacuum bubbles creating shockwaves - this also happens to ships' propellors. A well-designed gear pump is good for high pressure, precision, and low volume applications, a centrifugal pump is good for moderate-to-high pressure, high volume applications.

Great video! Have you done tests on the pump to see what it's capable of? i.e. flow rate: Liters/Gallons per minute, Fluid Pressure generated.. Thank you - great work!

So far so good attempts, my respects You can use some engine joint former for the leaks, check the kind that can handle oils and fuel. Also, the gear tooth design is provoking the emulsion of the oil with the air that gets into the pump housing, you can either lower the rpms or maybe make a more globular design (usually engine's oil pumps have three lobes) Hope my comment be useful, subscribed and waiting for the updates of the build

Your work is amazing but what kind of material you printed the gear and what kind material the body of the hydraulic pump ?

Air infused oil may be a fascinating medium, for shock absorption say.

Retraction of a single acting actuator like that is only going to work because your pump is having to pull vacuum to retract, you can see this when the hose collapses before you shortened it. Not ideal but perhaps you can orient the actuator upright with the connection on the bottom and the load force on top.

motor oil has a detergent, soap, in it to help keep the inside of a engine clean. the detergent is what is causing the oil to retain the air. circulating oil, another type of hydraulic oil, is a non detergent allowing it to release the air.

Its a kind of vedio that l have been desperately searching since long..... Quite informative.... Doubt clearing... Thank you so much.... Love from Kerala, India...

You have to admit, this would make a GREAT carburetor for a motorcycle...maybe I just gave you a new idea ;)

Para que mueva bien el pistón, tienes que purgar el aire primero, que no queden burbujas, así como sellar con silicon todas las uniones de la bomba

I always wanted a 3D printed bump! xD

1) add check valve. 2) use automotive make a gasket 3) a pressure switch with relay 4) as an option you can add a priming bubble and line directly to the pump housing. And a pressure release A)The check valve will help keep the prime. B) make a gasket between the layers of housing, is a better seal C) the pressure switch will stop the pump from over pressurizing the cylinder. D) by adding the prime bubble to the housing and into the gear chamber, you are creating a vacuum. E) the pressure release will dump the vacuum and allow the fluid to drain, for serving or changing fluids.

I was also going to say auto transmission fluid as it is a light fluid and also works

I didn't expect this from gears

Very good water pump

You need to make a progressive cavity pump for decent pressure

Its absolutely good

what exact dimension you used on gear holes for fitting bearings? as 3d printed parts usually have some either shrink or expend, how you determine the dimension on the design stage? do you do samples to check the difference of the actural part to designed value? thanks

both sides should have axle. Another good idea is a fill port since it can't pull water up. A twist lock O ring design.

A water pump needs a gasket to build pressure. If you just block it with acrylic, it won't build up much pressure and the pressure will leak out.

Rather than trying to seal the pump from leaks and having to manually prime the pump, would it be an idea to build a submerged pump? No air in and around the pump means no air/oil mixing, and you can just focus on building pressure.

And that's how you make mayonnaise 😉. Nice video bro

Would a gear pump work the other way, converting the flow of water to rotation?

that's pretty cool

Instead of hidraulic fluid you could try LHM it's very thin like dot 4 brake fluid, it behaves like hidraulic fluid

You could try building a syringe with a bleeder valve in order to remove all the air from the system.

You are almost there. If you can find information on an automotive oil pump. Buick 67 to 1976 or land rover 70 to 90 something (it was a buick design too. The pump is pretty much yours but the inlet and outlet is different. It pulls and pushes oil perpendicular to the gears and uses large tooth spur gears. I think your gears are poor shape to push oil. If you see those gears they are much rounder. You need much fewer teeth because you need the volume between the teeth to move fluid. Those pumps are good for 100 PSI.

How to make a perfect latte coffee ☕ at home 6:35

Whow pcbway is the shit!! This project is too !!📹🎥👍👍

Lmao. This is fun to watch. I know all this in theory but still very fun to see. Thanks. Great video.

You should make a gerotor pump or a piston pump next

an intelligent hydraulic system

Very good project

Just what i need

cool 6:09.. you have invented a simple one way differential air intake with no valves with leaky 3d printed plastic case -make the old carbon filtered cooking oil self circulating- now add a trompe high pressure tank -placed in a clingfilm wrapped hole in the garden, covered in water for safety- to collect & store this outlet high pressure cooled 'air' & power something. add a second set of gears -made from coke can meshed tesla disks- to the inner/outer gears running long bars mixer style & do extra external reclaimed flow work with them, grind/mix carbon inks etc

You could use silicon for that plate insulation

Enjoyed it!!