Yeah most people, even pro's get hooked on that shotgun parts cannon approach. Glad it helped some people. I spent some time on it buried in the service manual and wiring diagrams. Never would have thought it would get this many views, and so many ding dongs slinging criticisms about not cleaning the battery corrosion first. LOL, that corrosion can be measured as voltage drop so it's something I overlook since it is not the root cause of the customer concern. Good luck with the new charge port 👍😁

You saved you $500, I just helped a little.

Glad it helped, it tied my time up for a day so if it helps someone else I am all about it.

Definitely a good maintenance, which I did after fixing. My focus was pinpointing the root cause of the cart not moving, so I purposely overlook a lot of things like the corrosion you point out. The voltage measurement at the solenoid of 48v indicated the corrosion was not the cause. Also note, not my cart, it wasn't dropped off for basic maintenance but for a will not move. I'm not that guy that sells all the maintenance and easy to see issues first, then looks at the actual customer concern, I address the concern first, then once I diagnose and price that for them, I will "upsell" the maintenance.

@@paulkelley86 Hey man thanks for showing me how to fix this problem but its the same thing not taking charged and making noise and will not move

@@paulkelley86 Can you tell me if the fat right connect is on the charging port is the negative? All what is the top connector on the charging port is for. Thank you!

@@David25522 sorry don't remember. Only worked on that one not really what I do every day. But I remember the 3rd connection was for the charger interlock, so it wouldn't move with the charger plugged in. That was the malfunctioning part on this one.

@@paulkelley86 that 48 volts is very dieciving amperage is what makes it go the first i do on mine is check each battery conn the one causing the problem will fell warm to hot but in your case that green mess is amajor problem ive had mine 8 yrs was used 90% tbl ive had was corroded conn. even a causual cleaning cuts down on resistance which inceases current you can feel diff when you step on the pedal

There is a couple ways. To me the most simple is to leave the black lead on ground the whole time. Check the big red wire going to the solenoid from the battery, it should have the battery voltage (48ish v) then check the other big red wire coming off the solenoid going to the controller and eventually motor. It should have the same 48ish volts if the key is on and everything working. If 0 volts, the solenoid isn't connecting the 2, which could mean it it defective or it is not getting the correct signal on the small wire. This is from memory so I don't remember everything 100%. And I have not worked on one since. Good luck.

I think that is on the old style charge port, are you sure it was for this one? It still charges fine but it has an interlock circuit that was showing the charger still connected.

On a known good 48v. Like the positive terminal of the battery (the one that feeds the system 48v since there are multiple) If the ground you are testing is good.... it will read full source voltage (48v ish depending on battery charge. Or whatever the system voltage is)

Kind of sounds like your batteries are charged enough to not kick the charger on. You sure the charger won't initiate charging if you drive cart around for a bit?

Did you ever find the issue, I’m going through the same thing now.

@@tylerfisher6483 nope, ended up just getting rid of that sumbitch.

This cart was a one time fix I did for a neighbor. I work on anything and everything but not enough golf carts go be able to recognize your symptoms and eliminate things. You could find a wiring diagram and start tracing and measuring available voltage at different points. Sorry, wish I could be more help.

@@paulkelley86 Thanks man!!! Appreciate it.

It sounds like you are losing voltage somewhere between the source (battery) and the destination/load (motor). The issue is you don't know where the loss is occurring. Unfortunately we can't see voltage drop/resistance so you need to measure using a voltmeter. It's not a quick fix problem. It needs to be properly diagnosed. Or bust out the parts cannon and just start changing parts.

@@paulkelley86 ok. Thank you and appreciate the help!

@@paulkelley86 would you start with replacing the solenoid? Thank you

@@jasonfuller9828 I would start by buying a volt meter and taking measurements. If you want someone to guess for you, don't ask me. I'm a bad guessed which is probably why i put the effort into learning to troubleshoot.

Sorry I was just helping a neighbor out fixing that cart so I don't have it. I did work on another one with headlights inoperative and it had a headlight switch right in the center of the "dashboard". A few voltage tests shows the switch was faulty, voltage going into the switch but not out. I would check under the seat to start. Most of the time there is a pair of smaller cables coming off the first 2 batteries alone, since the 2 batteries would make 12 volts. The fuse would likely be inline with those wires or at least help you track it down.

no kidding first things first

Most likely, Amazon has a ton of universal solenoids, make sure it has the same connections.

I can't say for sure but it doesn't sound like a good idea if all the electronics are made for 36. Doesn't seem worth the risk to me. You might just let the magic smoke out of your electronic parts.

@@paulkelley86 he said it ran with the 8v batteties but whay do i know lets find out lol 🤙🏽 from hawaii

@@mrmula555 sounds like you already know the only sure way to find out. Good luck 👍

Hi Cindy, the solenoid functions to either block "power" from leaving the batteries and going to the motor, or allow it. Based on the batteries being charged you would want to test (or have tested) whether or not the voltage (power not really proper term but often interchanged) is passing through the solenoid. With key on, in forward or reverse, and accelerator pedal applied, voltage should pass through the solenoid. In my case is was not. It doesnt mean the solenoid is defective. It may be not passing power because it is not being told to. It is controlled by a controller which looks at inputs to determine if it should close the solenoid contacts. In my case, an input was defective. The charge port. Not really a short answer, but the solenoid is the place to start with diagnosis and troubleshooting. It may be defective, but until tested you dont know that and would potentially be wasting money replacing it. What yours needs in reality is diagnosis/troubleshooting. I am an automotive person, it's my job, I dont recommend guesses, in fact in my business, I could be held liable for guessing, I "prove" parts are defective before selling them to customers. It takes time, training, and expertise.... But I feel for the DIY folks and try to share my finds and experiences for those who benefit. In the case of my video, it may benefit you if you have the identical issue, or someone troubleshooting a similar one. Hope you get it handled 🙏

@@paulkelley86 thank you for your reply. We were wondering if it could be that. We will watch your video again and give it a try on the testing. If all else fails, we will give in and take it in for proper servicing. Thank you again and Happy Easter.

@@cindylabare960 thank you! You too!

Paul Kelley I always get confused on what to set my battery tester on when testing batteries. Which setting on the digital meter?

@@nikkicummings5944 Ultimately I have tested voltage in this video so my short answer is just DC volts. Depending on the meter though, it may require manually setting the range. Mine is an auto ranging type so I just go DC volts but perhaps you will have to select something in the range of 42 volts manually. Whatever your battery voltage is, determines what you are looking for. Roughly 42v.

Is the voltage passing through the solenoid to the motor side? 48v in and 48v out?

@@paulkelley86 Thanks for getting back with me . I was too tired to have at it again tonight after my regular job and I'll check tomorrow evening but I did find a flaw in my testing or least ways my thinking in that I was testing the motor brake voltage with the key switch on and getting no voltage .....,.. of course no voltage, you have to press the throttle to get voltage to make the brake release . I'm going to check that tomorrow evening and if I have voltage then my motor brake is going bad , am I correct in my thinking this time . It's amazing how foggy ones brain gets with no sleep. Thanks so much again I really want you to know how appreciative I am because I probably will need advice again .

Sounds like the solenoid is stuck closed. Either welded contacts inside the solenoid or it was incorrectly wired to never cut power/ground to the solenoid when the key is turned off. Will require voltage measurements to verify and pinpoint diagnosis.

@@paulkelley86 Thank you

As a maintenance sure, but that was not the cause of this problem.

Some sparks just as you make the connection just means there is current flow. This could be normal. It should stop as soon as the connection is solid. There still may be some capacitors charging up or things powering up even though key off. But if it is more violent sparks, or continues after the first instant, or if the cables get hot, it sounds like a short. If a positive is touching ground it will do the same thing and at best blow the fuse/fusible link or at worst start a fire.

@@paulkelley86 thanks

I would verify voltage goes in to solenoid and also actually comes out. They can click but have a bad contact inside. And you should have close to 48 volts (fully charged source voltage of the batteries), if lower back track to see where the drop is. Or if it is always lower consider batteries or connections (source)

Sure, but first make sure I can fix the machine rather than perform maintnance on something that may not be fixable right? Being a good steward of the customers money.

I understand but with the corrosion it takes away from the true voltage

Sounds like you may need to focus your testing on the forward/reverse select switch. It takes 48v and sends it on the forward or reverse circuit back to the controller. Test with a meter.

@@paulkelley86 thanks i replaced the entire forward reverse switch with and old one from a parts goft cart and worked great.

I am assuming by OBC you mean on board charger. This model does not have an on board charger, just a port connect the charger. Not sure this video will help. Hope you got it resolved

True, that's a good concern. My plan with this owner was to have him always run the charging cable through the steering wheel and plug it in. That way no one could miss it.

I would check battery voltage, if ok, I would check for power on the motor side of the solenoid

@@paulkelley86 hi there my solenoid sometimes clicks. on-site electrician said it was only producing 35v from the foot switch under floor (as I thought that was the problem) would it still work at all with 35 v or does need 48v?

@@tw1g123 there are 36v and 48v carts. Maybe yours is a 36v (6 batteries) that would be good. If it is a 48v (8 batteries) that is a problem but I cant say for sure if it is the only problem. You should see what the battery voltage is to determine if the batteries are low, or if there is a voltage drop. As some pointed out, corrosion on the terminals could cause voltage drop, if your battery post positive to negative for example read 48b but positive to negative cable read 35 volts that would indicate you are dropping 11 volts at the cable to battery connection and should be cleaned. Also I am unsure if you mean 35v to the large battery cable from the battery to the solenoid, or the smaller wire that controls the solenoid. Should have source voltage (48v assuming 8 fully charged batteries) at both the large and small control terminal.

@@paulkelley86 hi paul thanks for your reply. I tried to use again today and it worked for 2 minutes until I stopped and then would not move again. I checked batteries with volt meter and was getting 49.2 v( is a 48v buggy) there was also no clicking from the solenoid. I left it for about another hour to do something else and came back to buggy and it has been working the rest of the day fine.... do you think the solenoid could be at fault? If it stops working again could I test if solenoid by bridging the terminals on the solenoid to bypass it? Thanks again.( the buggy is too tempremental)

@@tw1g123 you could jumper the solenoid big terminal to big terminal just be careful because that's high amperage. Ultimately the test is to check if the solenoid gets what it needs to work. If it has voltage at the right points and doesnt work, it is defective. But if you find it is not getting voltage, you track down where the voltage loss is occurring. I found this one challenging because the small terminal on the solenoid is controlled by a circuit board / module. My module wasn't putting out voltage. The question was, is the module bad, or is it getting a bad input. In my case it was a bad input from the charging port, which indicated the cable was still connected. Apparently a common issue on these. This is the only one I have ever worked on so I dont know the common failure points, I am an auto guy so I understand the concepts, not so different than a modern car. Good luck!

Well.... based on measuring at the cable I have already accounted for the voltage drop across the connection to the battery so...... This is troubleshooting a solenoid, not battery maintenance. Maybe you should be looking for a different video?