Eleven month review - have burned out 3/4 rears but quick replacements from Underground Lighting. The amber fronts are no problem and are amazing. Just received new rear/red units from Underground last week and are easily 2x brighter. Seem to be built much stronger too. Still bullish on this addition vs. halogens.

True. But most people don't want to go through the hassle of purchasing a dongle, digging up an appropriate laptop, and learning FORScan. Certainly easier to plug and play, albeit at a cost. I do have a separate video showing the FORScan process for removing the double-honk. cheers.

What about it can i do more of for the next videos?

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 i think you misunderstood me this type of format was Perfect! IMO How you detailedly explained everything and your different points of view make it super relatable in my opinion as part of your audience. Great job brother 👏🏽💯

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 i was searching thru youtube’s many videos before finding your channel and i wish i would’ve find it before.

@@castpro3494 Thank you! Appreciate the time that you took to respond. cheers

Something the OP neglected to mention are the difference "packages" available for the different levels. Example, the 302A XLT comes with LED bulbs. This may be the case for XL and STX?

@@BobSmith-yo6ib the 302A only has LED headlights. The taillights on all the XLT trim levels are the same.

lol thanks Marc

Thanks, hope it helps.

Thanks amigo!

Nice...I think it makes a big difference.

Thanks JC!

Hi Terry my XLT already has LED backup lights, all the rest are/were halogen.

Dayum now THAT would be a challenge! My XLT is a wanna-be Limited. Something that you can't upgrade is the 4Auto mode. Also really impossible to upgrade to the 7.2KW if you don't order that with your powerboost. I mean, anything *CAN* be done but unlikely to be worth it by the time you pay OTC prices.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 biggest things would be the 4x4 and engine sizes, but as for keyless entry, auto-dimming / compass / home link mirror, sequential side mirrors with puddle lights, sun visors with LED inserts, and the list goes on. Just things that makes sense, can’t imagine budget breaking things.

Rich, the front amber turn signals are really striking...super bright. Can light up road signs 500' ahead of me. When I'm on the brakes at a stoplight, I can hear all four rear fans on the LEDs hum. Kinda cool. You can avoid the hyperflashing via Forscan programming and cheap LEDs but I did not want to mess with that. These are plug & play.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 same. I don’t buy cheap LEDs for the same reason.

Thanks Neto!

I had to replace one rear bulb, but it was sent to me immediately and it took 5 minutes to replace. I keep the old halogens in my storage bag under the seat just in case.

I put easter eggs into these vids to see if anyone's paying attention....thanks! lol

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 on top of that.. this video was a complete course for anyone wanting to replace halogen with led.. some of these I learned the hard way.. so thank you

Could you share how you wired it to flash orange for turn signal but white for reverse? Did you just plug it in and it work? Did you use Forscan? Thanks

Hi CJ I have an OPT7 tailgate light bar but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to mount it on this truck. Going to give it one more shot this spring if it ever stops raining. Thanks for the idea on the hitch mount brake light. Cheers

Thanks Kirk!

I don't know about this because my XLT headlights are bone stock LED reflectors and I won't replace them. There is a height adjustment that they make at the factory, I just don't know where it's located. You might have to get a service manual to find this if you can't find by searching around. cheers

No, my XLT came with LED reflectors, which are quite good. Perhaps not up to the standard of the high-end direct LED models but I think they work very well. cheers

All good

Yeah William I'm finding out that the FX4 package gives you some nice upgrades. My headlights are LED and excellent, but all turn signals were halogen. Would be great if yours were LED stock. Best of luck with your order and delivery sir.

It does not bother me. See my other video on "Top Ten Things." It's there but I've adapted to it and it's just inherent to the PowerBoost.

Your transmission is working as designed, it is programmed that way. Get used to it.

Did you save the OEM bulbs? I would pop those back in and see if the problem follows the bulbs or the truck. If the new LEDs failed, contact Underground. If the problem stays with the OEM bulbs as well, you might see if there is a code that you can clear to reset the braking circuit.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I saved them. Will do, thanks.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 amazing you reply so fast to an older video comment. Thanks again.

Thought I should update…determined that the OEMs worked fine. Underground was contacted and promptly agreed to replace the LEDs. Good service!

Hi Kyle, I'm not aware of any changes to the tail lamps on the F-150 XLT (or any other model using halogens) into the 2023 MY. The 21/22/23 MY's are essentially the same with only minor differences. Why not remove your lens assembly and see if you have the same bulbs that I showed in mine? That will confirm it for you more accurately than a supplier who is only going off of indirect information anyway. cheers.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 thanks for the quick reply. I’ll give it a shot. Much appreciated.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 thanks again for the great suggestion and video. Had a wait 8-10 weeks because of items being on back order, but they finally came in today and I already installed them! Your video was super helpful and made for an easy install. Thanks again!

@@kylefield6553 Thanks Kyle, glad it worked out for you!

Hi Steven...if you can believe it, these units have very small fans at the end which fire up when you light up the bulb. I think that this is primarily to cool the ballast resistor. It's a little bit wild since now I can hear the fans whirring if I listen carefully at a stoplight. Does not bother me a bit. So far no problems with heat and there is lots of space around the bulb to dissipate heat if these were throwing off a lot. cheers

Why didn't I? To begin with, my laptops are mac so I have to then install a windows virtual machine for $100...(don't want to hear anything about BootCamp!)...and after all that, spend dozens of hours that I don't have to learn how to NOT screw up my truck with ForScan. Or I could just take the easy way out and install the lights. Better yet, why don't you live next door to me so you can help!? lol

Not sure about the beers from this company, but my "tick-tock" sound inside the vehicle as well as interior flashers go at the same rate as before due to the design. You're seeing the hyperflash problem. You might be able to program that out with ForScan but I have never messed with it.

You can eliminate this with Forscan in the BCM. Turn off your bulb monitoring.

Holding up fine. Makes a big difference, I enjoy lighting up roadsigns at night with these.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Nice! I am considering on getting it too!

Check the bulb type. If it’s the same bulb as in my video, then you can use the amber bulbs listed in description.

Hi Nicholas I have not dug into FORScan yet. All of my laptops are macs and I'm not excited about going down the road of adding a virtual windows partition again just to run FORScan. There must be an easier way.

Jeff, there was a similar question earlier in the comments...the vendor responded that it causes the taillights to come through as "pink" instead of a properly deep red color. Good question though, I had wondered the same thing.

Robert, I had one rear bulb fail out of four. If I see more of them fail, I will likely move to non-resistor bulbs and handle the hyperflash problem through FORSCAN. Using these bulbs is the only (current) way around hyperflash unless you want to dig into FORSCAN programming. cheers

I did a separate video for LED license plate lights. It's pretty important that you get the OEM bulbs out of there otherwise you will burn up the socket. There is no need to replace the bed 3rd brake light since it's LED as is. cheers

Thanks for the fast reply@@fixorrepairdiy4609

I got all the bulbs that you suggested and I'm really happy with the results. I really thank you for the suggestions. In your video, you didn't mention the little marker bulbs at the front. I looked on the Underground Lighting site, and I couldn't find any reference for them. Do you happen to have a reference for those? Also, I was able to replace the tag bulbs without having to pull out the whole lamp. Again, thank you very much for sharing that information.

@@flcusat Hi Pedro, the marker lights can be changed out to any LED if you want to go that route; the big issue with the brake lights and the turn signal lights is the sensing circuit in the truck which will look for a decrease in current from what it expects; this is what causes hyperflashing. If you just replace your brake or turn signal bulbs with any standard LED, the truck will hyperflash the turn signals (or give you a brake light warning) because it thinks there is a dead bulb. The truck won't do this with marker lights, so you can use any compatible LED bulb for those. Myself, I have not bothered to change the marker lights, however I do think it's important to change your rear license plate lights with LED as you have done. cheers

Thanks Richard. You're absolutely correct assuming that you have a Win-based laptop and an interface dongle and invest the time to properly learn Forscan. Might be child's play to you, but my sense is that given the choice between the two alternatives, most folks would rather just replace the bulbs than deal with ForScan. JMHO cheers.

Actually forscan is really easy to use. Most items now are just a click choice. As well as many videos and tutorials on how to do such things. Just wanted to clear that up that’s not really a big deal anymore. A few years ago forscan was not as user friendly but it’s gotten to the point that’s pretty good now. As for the adapter those can be had relatively cheap on Amazon. Since most people probably have a win laptop that’s not much of an issue. And there are so many neat things one can customize and change well beyond just the hyper flash. It’s kinda fun changing and making things unique to your truck. Oh and I’ve got a 22 XLT PB. I finally pulled the trigger on the oem led taillights. Got a pair brand new in box for $770 shipped! And also a custom wiring harness for $140. While not cheap definitely getting more affordable. 👍

@@Astrand1 Me, the one guy with two mac laptops. Would either have to buy a $100 Parallels license or dig around for a cheap laptop on eBay.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 was the same for me. I’m also a mac guy. I hate windows. But I got a cheap refurbished dell for under $200. And that’s all it’s really used for. I like to tinker so I bit the bullet and got one. So yeah there are people like us but for the vast majority that have not discovered how much better a mac is 😂😂 they probably already have the biggest component needed.

@@Astrand1 i think that’s what i’ll do Alex. Not worth losing 100Gb of my mac pro for a win partition. I looked on eBay rhis morning and lots of refurbs for $100 or so.

No I have not had anything like that occur. I have been on the brakes for several minutes at a time without an issue. There are cooling fans on each lamp that should prevent this from happening if you used the same vendor. If you can't resolve that issue, then it looks like your next course of action would be to move to a straight LED version of the bulb (without resistor) and disable the hyperflashing through FORSCAN programming.

Thanks James…was unaware that package had updated lighting…thanks

If you bought them from underground then just reach out to them and get a replacement

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I had thought they might not be replaced because their website just says a 30 day warranty. I reached out and after sending back my defective ones, I had replacements in less than a week. I like them, so hopefully they last a while! Thanks

Did you use these lights from undergroundlighting, or did you use generic LED lights from Amazon? The Underground lights should draw about the same current as the incandescent and should "fool" the Ford sensors that it is not an open bulb. Otherwise you might need to program it in Forscan to get the error message to go away with LED lights.

Got it, I buy these led on Amazon, thank you sir!

Check to see if the fast blinking is also outside on the lighting itself. If not, then I would go with less-expensive LED bulbs and learn how to turn off your hyperflash with FORScan. I recently did this and it was not difficult if you have the right pieces. cheers

That's a bummer Uncle Wayno! I would probably try eBay to see if there is a used take-off that I could find, maybe someone is replacing with Lariat taillights and wants to sell their OEM XLT tail lights. I am not sure if you can remove/replace your BLIS system or the whole thing is integrated; I suspect the latter. If eBay is no bueno, then start searching online ford parts sites once you figure out your part number.

Thank you!

depends on the trim level! You should be able to determine if your bulbs are incandescent or LED from the factory.

The earlier models from 2022 lasted about a year. The replacements appear to be much more robust.

Yep. Little micro-fan.

Going to look at some LasFit bulbs shortly. The other thing that you can do is to use generic LEDs and remove the "outage" sensing through FORScan edits. I did this mod last month with a cheap Auxito bulb and it works fine, although the light pattern not as good as the newer Underground set. Vid in a week or two.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Yeah the Underground set is awesome as far as brightness and pattern, they are just very pricey and not very reliable.

I think at $60/pair I needed two pairs in the rear and one set in the front for a total of about $180.

Never mind I did more research and the website stated that the lights have built on fans for heat dissipation

@@robertheimbueger271 When I first installed them I was surprised that you actually can hear a very slight fan noise when the vehicle is stopped, especially since I have 4x of them lighting up during braking.

Ok I’m not the only one hearing a high pitch frequency sound when braking. I’m assuming that’s expected?

@@kylefield6553 those are the little fans doing their job.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 that’s what I figured. Thanks for confirming.

Thanks Chris. If you want to go the cheaper route, then use inexpensive LEDs and program forscan so that they don't hyperflash.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I’ll probably end up buying these ones you showed in the video, they are probably still the best way to go. They look very good

The reverse light on the XLT is an integrated LED module and not a simple bulb replacement.

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I forgot about that. I have zone lighting and knew it was led. Guess we can toss dual color and custom harness out the window

Thanks for your advice, John. Feel free to drop any other nuggets of wisdom on the comments here. Cheers.

The red LEDs are already way brighter than the OEM halogen. At some point you'll blind the people behind you. The red lens of the housing does not dim the red light much.

White would make the taillights pink instead of a bright deep red.

Harry, I think you're all LED with headlights and taillights. Definitely get those halogens out of the license plate sockets! cheers

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thanks for all your hard work and dedication! Outstanding information and presentation!

I guess trying to shave a buck or two here or there. And then they sit in lots for months waiting on parts. Supply chain is so complicated I'm surprised that anything gets done at all.

Did you know that you can change the playback speed to go up to 2x normal speed? Now my video's only 9 minutes long. I try to explain difficult concepts to people with these videos (i.e. do you know what hyperflashing is? Do you know why LEDs attract the eye better?) So maybe long form isn't your style, you might want to stick to TikTok vids. cheers