Timmy The Toolman don't worry man you're doing a great job, if that jerk got 35 years of experience I wonder why he hasn't done anything like that and maybe explain to people how to do it right, but I guess anyone these days can comment bullshit behind the computer!! Keep up with your videos man they are very helpful

Don't worry about it, he is a hater

What you say about the fan clutch makes intuitive sense. How can it force air when hot if it just freely spins with no real drive behind it?

Haters going to hate. You're a good man doing fantastic work. I dont even have a 3rd gen but I use your videos alot to understand concepts for my 4th gen. Keep doing what you do best.

Great video 📹 I was wondering how difficult removing the fan was.Now I know. It Looks like removing it also makes things a little easier when changing the drive belts. As far as temperatures My 02 tacoma runs at about 192 degrees. I use bluedriver scan tool which seems similar to what you use.

And, Sean and I are going to keep making them. Stoked you like what we're doing and thanks for watching.

Hey Frank, good to hear our videos are helping you out. We have a video for doing a body lift which will give you an idea of what you need to do to change your body mounts. Here's that video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJ-kd5Wat9KqZ40.html We also have a video showing replacing a couple of the rear body mounts on my 98 4runner as part of a CBI Dual Swing-Out Bumper Install. We replaced the two rear mounts with solid poly mounts so the bumper wouldn't be able to come up into the body on a hard hit causing body damage. Start watching at plat time 11 minutes and 20 seconds to see how we replaced these two rear mounts: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p7hpZtNlmbPMf4k.html

I'm glad you appreciate the humor. I sometimes wonder why more people don't mention it. We have to have a little fun while filming. You're very welcome.

You're very welcome.

Yeah, it definitely sounds like the fan clutch is bad. Glad you found our video helpful and let us know how the swap goes for you.

I just switched out the fan clutch, ran the AC in park for 30 minutes, and temp needle never got to halfway! Thanks again! Swapping this out was not easy with my fat sausage fingers. My clutch kept spinning when I tried to loosen 4 bolts, so I put another wrench on other bolt to hold it until the last bolt, where I had to wedge a wonder bar onto the belt and pulley.

@@Lucas-pv2wn Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for taking the time to get back to us to share your success story. Happy Wrenching!

Thanks Richard. I'm not the cleanest person but I'm not the messiest either. Happy Wrenching!

Thanks for the compliment on my cycling socks. You're very welcome!

Thanks Ben. Glad you like the video. Good luck with the swap.

You're welcome Luis. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

I forgot to ask you, how did the replacement go?

Hey Tim, Turns out that i didn't need to replace it. it's good. My Issues was low coolant.Now i have another sunroof leaking issue..

Glad you got it figured out. Regarding the sunroof leaking, I know it's fairly common that the drain tube gets blocked up causing water to leak into the cabin. There's 4 drains, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. People have blown them out with a little compressed air or run a wire down them like weed whacker trimmer line. You can see if they are draining by having the sunroof open and pour water into the channels to see if the water drains or just pools. But, some have said you have to be careful with the compressed air technique because you could blow the drain line off the fitting. If you do have a blocked drain, I'd probably try the weed whacker line or something similar to unblock it first. If that doesn't work, maybe buy one of the those cans of compressed air, like for cleaning off electrical equipment, and try that. I read some guys used the compressed air can with success. I think the opinion that a air nozzle connected to an air compressor is too high of pressure and can blow the drain line off the fitting. Here's a parts schematic on the sunroof showing the drain locations: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/87012-sunroof-leak-problems.html#post1053199

Hey Tim, I heard similar suggestions on one of the 4 runner forums. Thanks for the diagram. have you an email address? i want to send you a photo of what i have going on.

Sure, it's: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net

jake ounce Thanks. What's interesting to note is the higher coolant temps I was seeing was because of the new thermostat I had installed when I replaced my radiator and added an external trans cooler. I still had my old thermostat and tested the old one and the new one and found the old one opened up more than the new one at the same temperature. This would explain why my temps were running a little higher. It's my theory the new thermostat has a stiffer spring than the old one and thus doesn't open as far. The old spring from thousands of cycles of compressing and extending has reduced the amount of force it holds back. With the new thermostat, I was running between 192-196, when I put the old thermostat back in, I was running where I was before, between 188-192.

Hey David, glad our video helped you out. I've never re-oiled one of these fan clutches. I don't remember seeing a plug you can remove. Did you have to drill and tap a hole yourself to refill it with oil? Update: I just watched a video on it and now understand you can separate the halves of the fan clutch, clean it up and re-oil it. How much silicone oil did you fill it with? Also, could you provide a link to the fluid you bought? Thanks.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~silicone-visc-3000c~08816-03001.html?vin=&make=Toyota&model=4Runner&year=1998&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=() This link says unable to verify part fitment but it didn't say that before. Also I wasn't successful on the fix. My clutch had and still has resistance not freewheeling like most videos. I'll have to buy the full clutch after all. Seemed like a good idea.

@@davidruffo756 Ok, thanks for sharing this info.

@@davidruffo756 it was most likely that temp sensor on the front of the fan clutch that was messing up, other people said those are adjustable but that’s above my pay grade 😁

You're very welcome CJ. Glad you found our video helpful.

Good job finally getting it done.

You're very welcome Pat.

You're welcome Bro!

Thanks for your thoughts on this job. Socks and sandals is the new look. I'm a trend setter, don't you know?

Sure, I think that would work. I just decided for myself the torque value was too low so I just gave them a little bit more to make we feel like they wouldn't come loose. Thanks for the comment.

You're welcome and that's great to hear our video helped you out. Hopefully your rig will have a long life to come. Happy Wrenching!

Thanks dude

You're welcome Jesse. Good luck with the swap. When getting to the 4 nuts that hold the fan clutch onto the fan pulley, I used that trick of bumping the starter to get the next bolt up to the top so it's easier to get a wrench on and the nut removed. Instead of bumping the starter, you could just grab a long 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet and turn the crank bolt clockwise to move the engine and get the nuts where they will be easier to remove.

Thanks again Timmy! You made this job a bit easier on me.

Amazon is a pretty good resource for sure. Happy Wrenching!

IM pretty sure its a fake if its that cheap, amazon and ebay have been selling chinese fake on there a lot, even some sparkplugs are fake.

Hope you figure it out.

Thank you for the compliment. We appreciate it!

I don't have any experience with Land Cruisers but I've heard the 80 series are very capable. The big difference with the Land Cruiser is it's a solid front axle while the Tacoma and 4runners have independent front suspension.

You're welcome!

Glad you like our video. I do not know if the 2.7 liter engine uses the same fan clutch as the 3.4 liter engine. We link the fan clutch used for the 3.4 in the video description.

I have heard about people draining and refilling them with whatever fluid they require but I've never tried it. I guess it's worth a shot to save some money.

A bad fan clutch could affect the effectiveness of your AC system since the AC condenser does depend on sufficient air flow through it's cooling fins to convert the refrigerant from a gas back to a liquid before it's sent through the receiver dryer and then through the expansion valve to the evaporator. But, it could just be you're a little low on refrigerant.

Yes, it will spin when cold but it's deceptive. It's not actually turning one for one with the engine rpms. When it locks up, then it's turning at the same speed as the engine.

Caught it Outdoors 6 o’clock

Have you checked the condition of your radiator cap. I've now seen 3 of the OEM caps partially break apart leaving a plastic cap and spring inside the radiator. Take your cap off, turn it over and look at the center part. There should be a small round plastic cap and a spring underneath it. If those parts are missing, they're probably inside the radiator and your cap isn't holding pressure like it should.

Good to know and I guess my extra tightening wasn't enough to crack the base. If I'm remembering correctly, I was using a small 1/4" ratchet and I just gave the nuts a little bit more of a turn and called it good.

Well, the one test that showed the fan free spinning for quite a while after the engine was shut down let me know the fan clutch was at least a little tired. The fan should fairly quickly come to a stop after you shut off the motor. At least that's the way I understood it from the research I did before testing the fan clutch. The new fan clutch I installed quickly comes to a stop after the motor is shut down. Was the fan clutch still doing it's job? I think it was. Was it showing signs of getting a little tired? I believe so as well at least based off of that one test. A fan clutch can fail in two ways, not just one. It could either not be engaging at all or not very well, or it could be staying engaged all the time like you mentioned. Some might just replace the fan clutch as preventative maintenance too. Many on the Toyota forums have chosen to replace radiators due to the fear of the trans cooler failing inside the radiator (Pink Milkshake) and many have also replaced lower ball joints even when no play has been detected because of the fear of it failing like it's done to many 3rd Gen owners. Anyway, thanks for commenting and sharing some knowledge on the subject.

Lilith_ Baby I’ve been told to use cardboard an stick it in the fan

If the plastic fan is intact, I wouldn't see any reason to replace it. If one of the fins had a piece chipped off or was cracked, sure, replace it. I'd probably just find one at a wrecking yard like a PickNPull. On my 2000 3rd Gen, one of the previous idiot mechanics had the upper radiator hose on backwards and the tips of the fan blade came in contact with the hose cutting it. The tips of the blades were a little damaged but I still didn't feel a need to replace it. I think these plastic fans should last the life of the rig most likely.

Wedge a smaller pry bar or large screwdriver in between two neighboring fan clutch nuts. Hold counter pressure in the clockwise direction while you get onto a 3rd nut with a long 12mm box end wrench to break it free. If you're right handed, it works best to get the nut you want to break free at about the 2 or 3 o'clock position. After you break that one free, get onto the 17mm power steering pulley nut with a wrench or socket and turn the the pulley clockwise until the next nut you want to break free is in the 2 or 3 o'clock position and break that one free. Once you break a nut free, don't remove it just yet. You want to keep all the nuts on until all 4 are broken free because the nuts protect the stud threads from getting damaged by the pry bar or screwdriver you using to hold the fan clutch steady. Hope this helps.

If you find the the pulley turns when you're trying to break free the fan clutch nuts, you can hold it steady by placing a small pry bar between two neighboring nuts while breaking one of the nuts free with a long box end wrench. *Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set amzn.to/2Ob8THw

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! Got it off just how you said

@@ConnorLee Perfect. Good job!

That’s some good info! Thanks man

I didn't know about the two different fan clutches available. 200's is a little high unless your climbing sustained hills in warmer weather. I suspect the jiggle valve on your thermostat is pointed up at the 12 o'clock position when it should be pointed down at the 6 o'clock position. Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy, I will check the jiggle valve on my Tacoma but I think it’s my fan clutch going out. It took a few seconds for the fan to stop after I turned off the engine and I can easily stop the fan with a small piece of cardboard. You can see the two different Toyota part numbers for fan clutches. 16210-62030 without tow package and 08921-04950 with tow package. I learned that you can rebuild the fan clutch by opening it up and adding Toyota CST silicon fluid. Toyota sells the silicon fluid in 3000, 6000, and 10,000 CST viscosities. Here are the Toyota part numbers 08816-03001, 08816-06001, and 08816-1000. It appears that 3000 CST silicon viscosity is most commonly used in the Toyota standard fan clutch. I also read online that our Australian brothers and sisters that drive 80 series Land Cruisers often change their fan clutch fluids as a maintenance item and only use 10,000 CST silicon fluid. See bit.ly/3qysmBL

I could never find it either so we used the German Spec of Gudentite when we were doing the timing belt job.

There should'tn be any play in the fan clutch. Maybe something cracked or the nuts that hold it on came loose.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks alot for the reply!

@@Dieiamgi No problem.

I've heard of it but never tried it.

Good luck with the fan clutch replacement. You've got lots of life left in that rig with only 128k. Bilstein 4600 shocks are an equivalent OEM replacement. I've been running them on my 2000 4runner for years. They ride nice.

Thank you for replying brother, I’ll check out some more of your videos and you have a great day.

Interesting. When I tested out the new fan clutch on two different vehicles I've swapped them out on, the fan clutch came to an immediate halt after I turned off the engine.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. Just an FYI, in case u feel like testing this out... I drove it around today to test my theory. I'm down in SD, and the air temp was around 80deg today. I parked it in the sun idling w/ the AC on, and monitored the OBD2 coolant temp. It struggled to get over 190deg (which I guess is a good thing). However, it did manage to get up to around 194-195, like in your vid. At that point, I shut it off, and the fan basically stopped right away. It seems like somewhere around 194 is the sweet spot for the clutch to get 'sticky' and start to fully engage. Anything lower, and you'll get more of a 'slippy' clutch that'll freewheel. I shut it off multiple times between 185-192, and it would freewheel, but, the higher the temp, the less it would spin. Anyway, just figured I'd share in case this info helps.

@@mr_mnky Thanks for sharing that. I learned something new about these fan clutches.

The oil could be the clutch fluid leaking out. Makes sense unless you spilled some oil while working on your rig and that's where it landed. You might be good for a while but I'd definitely keep an eye on your coolant temp and probably stay away from any long trips until you get it replaced. The sooner you replace it the better. You'd be kicking yourself for overheating your engine and maybe getting yourself stuck somewhere because you delayed on replacing it. I would only recommend buying the Aisin one I got or go with OEM. Aisin made the OEM one so they should be pretty much identical. The OEM one through a seller like Camelback Toyota is a little more expensive. You're welcome and I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Thanks Tim for taking the time to respond and so quickly. I'm 100% sure it's not from oil when working on my truck and had a dark black color and one of the bolts on the fan had a dry black power so I'm confident it's from the fan clutch. I will take your advice and buy the OEM Aisin. You are GREAT Tim, I subscribed/liked and will tell everyone I know and I belong to a popular Toyota forum and will spread your videos ~ again thanks, Mark

Thanks Mark. My buddy Sean and I are having a great time making these videos and sharing them. When we decided to produce videos, we wanted our videos to be sort of a One-Stop Shop where we give you everything you need to be successful with a repair or modification. So many videos we've both watched on KZfaq left us guessing and we wanted ours to be as comprehensive as possible. We appreciate you spreading the word about our channel.

Hey Mark, BTW, I'm a member of Toyota-4runner.org. My screen name is: mtbtim

Timmy The Toolman OK, Thanks and your video was just what I looking for ~ Hope you had a great Thanksgiving with your friends and family!

I don't remember any noise. You could have a pulley going out or maybe it's a sound coming from the engine or trans. It's hard to say without being there to listen to what you're hearing.

@@TimmyTheToolman maybe. AC pulley is new and alternator. Fan Clutch is on order, fingers crossed. Thanks!

@@zwagoner3 Ok, good luck. I hope the fan clutch was the culprit.

There's a way to do it, but we've never done it. There's a good chance somebody has made a video on it. Do a search on KZfaq and I bet you'll find some videos on it.

If it roars all the time, your fan clutch might be locked up all the time. That will keep your engine cool but it will also kill your gas mileage.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your response and helpful how-to video.

@@KsKaylor You're very welcome. Sean and I are here to help and that includes taking the time to answer people's questions.

The tow package is just the hitch. Why they are asking this question for a fan clutch purchase doesn't make any sense. Maybe the supplier you are using thinks the tow package came with an external trans cooler and they have a different model for rigs with an extra cooler. As far as I know, there's only one model fan clutch for these rigs. What supplier are you using?

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2003,tacoma,3.4l+v6,1418453,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812

I'm looking at the Rockauto page. The Aisin clutch you used is with a tow package. I'm leaning toward buying it over the without tow package, unless there's a major difference? FCT-013 vs FCT-067

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick response. I ended up getting the 013 (with tow package) I'll let you know how it turns out.

@@k5amu1 I had a feeling it was Rock Auto. The FCT-013 is the right one.

Because Aisin is an OEM parts supplier for Toyota so it's the same fan clutch as OEM with the exception it didn't come in a Toyota box. An auto parts store brand is not as good. A fan clutch is crucial for proper engine cooling and I wouldn't take a chance on an aftermarket one.

Maybe spray some penetrating oil on them like Kroil or PB Blaster. Wedge a big screw driver or small pry bar between two adjacent nuts on one side while trying to break free one of the other 2 nuts on the opposite side. Since I'm right handed, I face the engine and get two bolts on the left side, one on top of the other, and wedge the screwdriver or pry bar between them. The one I try to break free will be at the 1 or 2 o'clock position. I use the long 12mm box end wrench and it usually breaks free without too much of a fight. I hope this helps.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply! I'll go try using a prying or screwdriver.

@@TimmyTheToolman I GOT IT OFF! the screw driver worked! Thanks for you help! Saved me a couple hundreds bucks from the shop!

@@KraziAzn2 That's great to hear. Good job getting it done.

Thanks Bro!

You're welcome. A properly functioning fan clutch should spin fairly easily by hand when cold but shouldn't spin easily when the engine is at operating temp.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply Tim, I really appreciate it! I recently got a 5VZ swap on my FJ40 and your videos have been really helpful 😃

@@spago555 You're welcome. I'm jealous. I want a FJ40 but they're too damn expensive.

@@TimmyTheToolman Haha they are indeed expensive in the US. Here in Pakistan they were used as military vehicles which have now been decommissioned. So we have a ton of auctioned off FJs to choose from at a low price.

@@spago555 I guess I need to visit Pakistan and ship one back to California. This is one of the cool things about running a KZfaq channel. I get to exchange messages with people all over the World. Good luck with your rig. If you could, send me a pic of you with your rig. Here's my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net

Yes, especially when the engine is at operating temperature and the fan clutch is locked up. When it's not at operating temp, the fan clutch won't be locked up and it won't be turning at the same speed as the engine.

should I be concerned?

I don't know a whole lot about supercharged 3rd Gens but I sort of doubt it would increase coolant temps that much. I run no higher than 194 unless my rig is working hard up a steep grade and then it will creep up towards 196-197. The first thing I'd check is your coolant level and make sure the radiator cap is intact. I have a video I'll be uploading shortly regarding diagnosing higher than normal coolant temps and the guys truck I was working on had a busted radiator cap. The next thing I'd check is the thermostat jiggle valve position. Do you know what position the jiggle valve on the thermostat was placed? It should be pointing downward at the 6 o'clock position. You're running a good 16 degrees too high. If you don't know what position the jiggle valve was placed in, I'd drain the coolant into a clean bucket so you can reuse it (unless you're due for a coolant renewal), pull the lower radiator hose off, and then remove the elbow that houses the thermostat. If the jiggle valve isn't in the 6 o'clock position, rotate it, and put everything back together. People have reported high temps like you're experiencing due to the wrong jiggle valve position. I cover replacing the thermostat in my trans cooler install video and the other video I'll be uploading tonight. If neither of those work, I'd then test your fan clutch operation and replace it if it at all seems a little tired.

I had a shop install it for me before. After watching your videos, I will give this a shot. Thanks again Tim.

I noticed no sound difference with mine. If I were you, i'd get one of those mechanic stethoscopes and use it to figure out the source of the noise. Could be a bad pulley bearing, maybe the fan pulley bearing itself. I haven't used it yet to diagnose anything, but this is the one I bought on Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DLMOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timmy The Toolman thanks Tim, the belts do need to be changed but that is a different sound. The sound sounds like it's struggling almost. Like when the battery is dead but not as dramatic.

Also, if it is a spinning part how would I do that. Can you put the end of that rod on a spinning part without hurting the part or yourself.

You can't put it right on the spinning part. That would be dangerous. You put it somewhere close to the pulley spindle, on the backside against the main housing of whatever you checking, like the power steering pump, AC pump or alternator. I wonder if your starter is staying partially engaged somehow. Is it only on startup and then it goes away?

Timmy The Toolman no it is while running. I was just using that sound as a reference. I could film a short video and post it to KZfaq. Would that help

Good luck!

jhock67 I had the same problem with Sean's rig when we did the timing belt job and I recently had this problem when I replaced the fan clutch on my 98 4runner. The fan clutch gets stuck on the 4 studs of the fan bracket. You need to wiggle it back in forth with your hand and arm strength. Grab at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and push with one hand while pulling with the other. Once it starts to move be careful how hard you are pulling backwards towards the radiator. When it finally comes loose, you don't want to ram it into the cooling fins of your radiator.

Timmy The Toolman thanks for the reply. I was hoping it was something like that. I was getting it in my head that I was also supposed to adjust the belts. Just 4 nuts and a bit of arm strength makes the job much more enjoyable.

The 01 and 02 models have a hybrid throttle body. It's drive by wire with a drive by cable back-up. Since it doesn't have an IAC valve like the older models have, I'm not sure how you can address the issue with these newer throttle bodies. Did your problems start before or after you cleaned the throttle body?

@@TimmyTheToolman oh ok i didn't know that. I was doing spark plug change a few weeks ago so I figured I'd go ahead and clean TB while it was accessible. No its always done this well before TB cleaning. No check engine light or any pending codes. Ive cleaned MAF, changed TP sensor and PCV valve hoping they would do something to help.

@@4runner4life7 Here's a thread I started on T4R.org to understand the 01 and 02 throttle bodies better. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/281621-2001-2002-throttle-body-design-question-2.html Supposedly there's two TPS on this throttle body.

@@TimmyTheToolman wow that's interesting! I forgot to mention if I'm sitting at a light with ac on then it will drop down to 600 and shake a little, but never stalls. Car has 221k miles on it and I've owned it since 216k. I've done nothing to compressor, fan clutch, blower motor or anything like that. Should I check these things before going any further? Thanks again for the quick responses!

@@4runner4life7 Well, when the AC compressor turns on, it puts a heavier load on the engine and that's why the idle increases but for some reason it's having issues throttling up and staying there. A guy on that T4R thread said there's two TPS sensors on the throttle body. Maybe the one you didn't replace is the problem. I guess it could be a problem with the AC compressor clutch putting a heavier load than normal on the engine. The fan clutch or blower motor wouldn't cause the symptoms you're experiencing.

Hey Paul, glad in a roundabout way this video helped you out. Thanks for sharing the link to that KZfaq video. I already knew for the most part how a viscous fan clutch worked but the visual representation in the video helped me understand it better. Good luck with the timing belt job. Happy Wrenching!

Thanks. Glad you like the video and my style.

Fan clutches can fail in two ways. One way is they don't lock up at operating temp and thus don't spin full force to properly cool your engine. The other way they can fail is they stay locked up all the time. I have a feeling yours is locked up all the time for the most part based off what you're telling me. With it locked all the time, your engine won't overheat but you'll take a hit with your gas mileage because your engine has more resistance to it. It would be like running the AC all the time.

Timmy The Toolman Sounds great, thanks so much for your reply and all that you do. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in keeping my 97 4Rnr going strong at 380k miles. Thanks a ton!

@@ryancasey9185 You're welcome Ryan and great to hear our videos are helping you out. We never get tired of hearing this because our main goal is to empower people to do their own automotive work. Happy Wrenching!

Find us a good deal on an 80 series land cruiser and we might add one to the fleet. People are asking pretty crazy money for them so their values are overinflated.

It could be. The first thing I would check is your radiator cap. I helped a guy figure out his higher than normal coolant temps and we first changed the fan clutch because he thought it was the cause and he already bought it. The new fan clutch did nothing to reduce his coolant temps which were in the mid to high 200's. The next thing I thought to check was the thermostat because it's not expensive and it's easy to replace. With his engine hot, I knew it would be tricky to get the radiator cap off to relieve pressure so I could start draining the coolant from the valve on the bottom of the radiator. To my surprise, the radiator was not pressurized and I was wondering how that could be. Well, after removing the cap and I started draining the coolant, I noticed a part fall off his radiator cap. The cap was busted and not holding pressure for the system to work properly. When we got to Toyota to buy a new cap, lower radiator hose and thermostat, we compared the new cap to the old cap and there were parts missing from the cap and were most likely in the radiator. The guy decided to buy a new radiator as well. When I removed the radiator, we dumped it upside down and got a spring out. After I got all the new parts put in, his coolant temps were normal. Long story short, it could have been a simple case of replacing the radiator cap to fix the problem. The spring in the radiator probably wouldn't have caused any problems because it was too big to fit down any of the small coolant channels. I don't know how you check to see if a radiator is holding pressure other than trying to remove it with the engine warmed up a little, not hot. I'd put a bunch of rags over the radiator cap and twist it to the first spot where you can relieve pressure but still not take the cap off. Putting a glove on your hand wouldn't be a bad idea either. Keeping downward pressure, twist it towards that first spot and ease up some of your downward pressure on the cap. If the system is pressurized, coolant under pressure will squirt out a bit. If you have enough rags and a gloved hand, I believe you can do this without getting burned. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, than I wouldn't do it. Maybe just buy a new radiator cap, which I think is around $14 and just see if it reduces your coolant temps. The next most affordable thing to replace is the thermostat and make sure the jiggle valve is pointed in the 6 o'clock position (pointed towards the ground). Don't forget to get a new thermostat rubber seal as well. You'll have to drain the coolant and you may as well replace the lower radiator hose while you're at it. If the thermostat doesn't do it, the next most affordable thing to replace is the fan clutch. And if that doesn't do it, maybe you have some clogging going on in your radiator and that needs to be replaced. You can buy aftermarket radiators, but I wouldn't suggest it. I'd just buy an OEM one from an online seller like Camelback Toyota.

+Timmy The Toolman. thanks tim!! Yeah I changed the cap still same thing. Going to do the thermostat and check the fan next. Also my car does that roar sound when I stop and go alot. can that also be a sign of bad fan clutch?

Yeah, that could be a sign of a bad fan clutch as well. Have you done some of the tests I show in the video? Mine was showing signs it was wearing out but it was still working well enough to keep my coolant temps down. Another guy on a Toyota forum said his fan clutch passed all the tests he did but his fan clutch was the culprit for his high coolant temps. It sucks to just throw money at a problem without any assurance it's going to fix the problem but sometimes it's pretty much what you have to do.

+Timmy The Toolman thanks again doing the test tomorrow. will see how it goes.

Hey Jeff, it's hard to say but maybe your fan clutch is working sub-par. Even though it has passed the test, maybe it's not pulling the same amount of air through the cooling fins of the radiator as it should be. It might be worth the expense of buying a new one and seeing if it fixes your issue. Overheating at idle is indicative of a fan clutch problem. If it were me, I'd drop the $100 on a new fan clutch.

Maybe replace the thermostat also, and the radiator cap. They wear out and won’t hold pressure back, lowering the boiling point.

I replace my radiator caps every couple years. Been doing it for a long time on my 7.3 powerstroke.

What a waste of money!

I don't think you did anything wrong. I'm not sure if the spin test is totally fool proof. If you replaced the fan clutch, you should be good to go.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Timmy. I wasn’t sure if I tightened them tight enough but theres no wobble and its been fine so far. How tight is appropriate?

@@Art-cq1zy Hard for me to describe how tight, but basically using pretty firm pressure with that long box end 12mm wrench I used. They are small nuts so you can't got too crazy or you'll strip them.

I've found they get stuck too when we did the timing belt video. You just need to push and pull with opposing hands to break it free from the pulley. It's actually the studs binding in the holes and not face of the fan clutch stuck onto the pulley. The studs fit a little tight. When it starts to release, don't pull super hard but wiggle it off in a controlled manner. You don't want to pull the fan into your radiator damaging the cooling fins. Hope this helps.

Sprayed it w Blaster re-torqued the nuts, removed them sprayed again and got some movement. Spraying again and hopefully will un seat the clutch. Cut a piece of foam and put it up against the radiator just in case! Thx for the advice Tim!

Ok, hope you get that sucker off.

Well I finally got the fan clutchc off. Drove back home from Phx. To Cruces and the transmission went out 85 miles out just before Deming! Another project:) and thanks to my friend w/ a car trailer, the highway tow bandits wanted $600.

Damn, that's some bad luck. We have videos for the trans swap though. Here's Part 1: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pcB0hs2d3dKWgWg.html

SOL LUNA Good to know.

Im about to yank the same fan out, electric is not the way.

What do you mean what about it? The coolant temp sensor is totally separate from the fan clutch. There's a coolant temp sensor that communicates with the ECU and there's another one that communicates with your gauge on the dash cluster.

My truck consistently runs between 190-194. I sometimes hit the upper 190's but that's when I'm driving up a steep grade on a hot day. I've heard guys on the Toyota forum say they normally run in the high 180's. I think there might be some differences between monitoring coolant temps with a Scan Gauge II and monitoring it via a bluetooth OBD II reader and the Torque Pro app. I use the Torque Pro app. 210F is definitely high. I would start with the most simple and affordable like checking your coolant level and radiator cap. If those are good, I'd drain the radiator (if the coolant is still good and not ready to be changed, drain it into a clean bucket so you can reuse it), remove the lower radiator hose, remove the neck that houses the thermostat, and check the position of the jiggle valve. The jiggle valve should be in the 6 o'clock position, pointing towards the ground. If the thermostat doesn't change anything, I'd then look into replacing the fan clutch. The last thing I'd replace is the radiator since it's the most expensive if you buy OEM. Check out this video I made addressing higher than normal coolant temps: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d55_h9eYzNq1npc.html If you have more questions, just ask.

Timmy The Toolman well now I'm worried lol, I'm gonna try to get a obd scanner and use that app

Well, I wouldn't stress too hard. I think a lot of people are running a little higher than they should be but have no idea since they aren't monitoring it like we are and their trucks are just fine. But, knowledge is power and if you can have your engine running cooler, it will probably be better for it in the long run and increase the longevity of the engine. Here's the OBD II Reader I bought for myself. Seems to be working well. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you tried holding the fan clutch steady by getting a large screwdriver or small pry bar between two neighboring nuts while you're working on breaking one of the 4 nuts loose? Do you have a long box end wrench to give you the leverage you need to break them free easier? Have you tried applying some penetrating oil to the nuts? Have you tried applying some heat to the nuts with a butane torch?

@@TimmyTheToolman I've tried everything you mentioned but the torch. I've tried the end wrench to end wrench trick but the problem I'm having is the pulley spins. Amazon has a fan-clutch pulley tool that I might try. Get this....one tool that I tried to wedge through the pulley bolts was a 3 sided file and it exploded into 3 pieces from the torque.

@@mr.anderson70 I think if you can get a large screwdriver or pry bar wedged between two neighboring nuts so you can have the leverage to hold it firm, you should be able to get onto one of the nuts to break it loose. Maybe you have a buddy that can come over to concentrate on holding the fan clutch still while you concentrate on breaking one of the nuts loose. But, I would try heating up the nut with a butane torch first and then get onto it with a wrench.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply. I'll try the torch and wedging a tool between the nuts. Whoever serviced this thing last probably used locktite red and 18" end wrench to get them this damn tight.

@@mr.anderson70 Good luck Joe. You'll get it.

The housing of the fan clutch is stuck on the studs of the fan bracket pulley. You have to wiggle it pretty hard.

Wedge a large screwdriver or pry bar between 2 neighboring fan clutch nuts to hold the fan clutch firm while loosening one of the other nuts. This will work to get all the nuts loose and then you can remove the nuts and fan clutch. Easy Peasy.

Timmy The Toolman I tried that but to no avail. Idk why this thing was tightened so crazy. I ended up chiseling them off. And now of course the fan clutch will not come off. I’m just glad I enjoy working on this truck

@@scumbagmanufacturing4269 Sounds like you're dealing with rust. It's normal that the fan clutch hangs up on the studs. If you wiggle it back and forth over and over again, you should be able to work it off, but then again, if you're dealing with significant corrosion, it will probably be a pain to get off.

Timmy The Toolman thanks man, time to go yank this thing out

@@scumbagmanufacturing4269 Good luck!

You should make a video showing people how to do it.

I will go to local toyota and post part no

Also can you please let me know what ti check next my toyota tacoma year 2000 3.4 liter overheating gauge go up three quarters. I replce thermostat from toyota Clean radiator Fan clutch is good New water pump not too long ago. What next?

@@satwindersingh6017 Cool. Thanks!

Minh, the coolant was at operating temp, around 190-194 when I did the test at 11:36 on the "old" clutch. The fan clutch should have been locked up and it wasn't. Now at the 23:26 time, you're seeing me testing the "new" clutch after I drove it for a while and got the coolant to the same operating temperature I tested the old clutch at. So, while my old clutch was still doing it's job, it was showing signs of wearing out. I'm definitely not going to use the old clutch in my rig again. However, I will agree with you that these yoda's are great. Thanks for watching.

No the old one didnt seem fine.. Because approximately after 30 seconds switching on a cold car, the clutch should not lock.... but in the video the old clutch was locked when cold.

It would be a good video. You should have made one.

The actual fan clutch blew up? Metal shards everywhere or was it the plastic fan that broke apart?

@@TimmyTheToolman just the plastic fan blew up and destroyed my shroud and radiator even the hood big mess any ideas?

@@AeroNationHD I've heard of fans breaking up like that but I don't know what causes it. I don't think the fan clutch could cause it to fail like that.

@@TimmyTheToolman you think it was due to being the original fan on 180,000 miles and being in az i mean plastic and 110 degree heat dosent mix well??? Also love your videos man you have wonderful tutorials!!

@@AeroNationHD Yeah I agree. Probably just got really brittle from all the heat cycles. Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!

I've also learned that these can be adjusted for temperature by turning a screw. Toyota recommends a different temperature in Australia than it does in North America. I have no idea why. Maybe it has something to do with emissions vs performance. Also, you can change the oil for different viscosity which affects performance. Even though it's all mechanical, it's a lot more complicated than an electric system. If you wanted to get that much into adjusting it, it'd probably be better to go with an electric fan.

@@CodyWommackVEVO It would be cool to take one apart and change the fluid. I've heard of people doing it but I've never tried. Thanks for the comment and info.

@@TimmyTheToolman I've watched several videos of people adding fluid. It seems like it's hard to determine the correct amount. I'm amazed at this technology but I'm leaning towards going with an electric fan.

Glad you like my entertaining terminology. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

@Timmy The Toolman Np lol , since i got your attention, do know if a bad coolant sensor could throw cam sensor code? P0341 to be exact, I have a 2003 toco SC with urd 7th injector kit

@@oziasazrielben-israel6750 I'm not sure how the two can be related to each other. I would assume if you're getting that code you have a failing cam position sensor. The wiring harness for the sensor comes very close to the timing belt. If the harness wasn't secured correctly, maybe the harness got nicked by the timing belt. You can remove the upper timing cover and slide it back if you release the upper radiator hose clamp and slide it back giving you room to move the cover back. Or, you could drain some coolant, pull the upper radiator hose off so you can completely remove the cover. Inspect the wiring for the sensor. It it looks ok, it probably means something internally failed with the sensor. Either way, I'd replace it and see if it fixes your issue.

@Timmy The Toolman I replaced cam and crank, the thing that noticed that was off, was the voltage for the EFI fuse was a little lower than the rest of the fuses

@@oziasazrielben-israel6750 Did you use OEM sensors or aftermarket?

How do you go about adding fluid? It looks like a sealed unit to me. Learning how to service one of these would be cool to know.