Just did this job. Very helpful and clear video. Thanks! Also, tip for others. Don't put the impact on the bolt end (bottom side) to remove the outer toe arm bolt and nut. There is a chance you will spin the bolt inside the eccentric washer, and bind them. This will leave you unable to remove it without a lot swearing and hammering (and destroying the washer and bolt). I should have known this, but had a brain fart.

Damn bro you're Soo smart and I loved how much you went into detail. Very informative video. Something no you tuber or even the forums have ever talked about. Thank you soo much for this video. I really do appreciate. I always wondered what the difference between the Turner and SPL was but you explained it. Strength and design. Please don't stop making videos like These. Very intellectual and helpful

Great video as always. For anyone else that will be doing this install there a few corners that can be cut to save time which I did during my install. Don’t need to drop the aluminium support braces in full. Backout the T60 and the other two chassis 16mm ones by 10mm. Do this on both sides. Don’t need to unclip any lines but you do need to unplug the exhaust flaps. Don’t remove centre exhaust brace just remove the four 6mm hex bolts for the braces. Remove the rear two exhaust brackets. No other exhaust brackets need to be removed as it is supported by the sub frame anyway. You only need to drop the subframe 10mm for the bolt to clear. Essentially I left all the bolts still bolted to the car and backed them out 10mm. This provided enough space to remove and retorque as required. Used a swivel joint for the partially obstructed 16mm. I think the part about removing the damper in the vid is editing oversight spliced in from another vid. Anyway hope this saves time for someone else, your milage may vary. Thanks for the vid!!

I haven't even watched this and I know it's going to be awesome. Been considering this for a while now, thanks for doing a video!

I won't attempt to do this but also watched the whole video, as per usual very good and informative. What a pain in the ass to have to drop the whole sub frame but very cool to see how its done

Nice job. You should consider using a wheel hanger. I find they make it easier to dismount and mount wheels.

Idk y I watched this. Good video as always

Is the toe arm bolt clearance an issue with both the base M2 and M2 Comp?

Thanks for another informative video! Quick question: my F80 is a daily driver, and while I've found sealed monoballs for the front thrust arms, I can't seem to find them for the rear toe arm. I was wondering if you had found anything similar for them?!

So the subframe doesn't need to be lowered on a F80?

Keep the vids coming! Heading out to weathertech this Wednesday NCRC?

Early on you mention various options on the Turner product and that stainless steel was an extra cost option. Raw stainless steel is more costly and it is valued for its corrosion resistance. I just wanted to point out that many people make the incorrect assumption that stainless is stronger as well. Depending on grade often a steel piece or a steel fastener is stronger than the same thing made from stainless. The steel piece is simply zinc plated for corrosion resistance. Often zinc plated steel makes a stronger piece that stainless steel.

Very informative and awesome video as usual! Is it ok if I reuse the rear subframe bolts and how do I guarantee that the subframe will go back nice and square as I raise it back up? Thanks again!

You make great videos. Off topic, would you know if KW V3s taken off of my F82 M4 would fit an M2 comp?

Use those quick jacks with the label towards the engine side. Saw you turned them… 😂

U need that fall line shim kit

Are you selling the turner arms ?

What is the best way to go regarding off the shelf suspension on the F87 ? I’m in the UK. Standard seems poorly optimised